julene on mon 24 mar 03
My first post was typed while waiting for my electric kiln to reach =
temperature. After it has cooled I, as Abadi, wish to speak the =
language that I understand best, clay.
I have been firing an iron saturated cone 6 glaze. If you check the =
archives, there are several listed, but are all basically the same glaze =
( Tomato Red, Litman Red Brown, Randy's Red). Seems to depends what =
one does about the Gerstley Borate issue. And if you look at the white =
glaze in the Woodfired look, it is the same base glaze, so we are still =
dealing with Iron Staturated glazes. I tryed this new Glaze combination =
from CM along with the iron saturated glaze. It was actually good fun, =
as the nutmeg combo gives an excellent base to paint over. Almost =
reminds me of cave painting. I believe the saturated iron makes a good =
combination when used with a black slip. =20
Before this firing, I was under the impression that I had this iron =
saturated glaze thing working. I had found that the glaze was better =
done over an iron free clay, which meant that I needed to learn to put a =
resist over the bottom of the pots to keep the white clay from getting =
stained. The glaze needed to be a good thickness where I wanted the =
best iron crystals to appear. I had mixed up a 50/50 batch of Blackbird =
and Frit 3134, which made a great overglaze on the iron Statured glaze, =
as on the rims, and accent parts. Has anyone tried this treatment with =
Blackbird and Frit 3124 and how was that?
For this firing, I mixed up a new batch with new iron oxide. This did =
not give as nice of an affect. The old iron oxide was over twenty years =
old. Having read all about the illusive yellow glaze, I am aware of all =
the different types of iron oxide, but has the iron oxide in the last =
twenty years been so much better (over) refined and finer mesh that it =
can seriously affects the result of this glaze? Is there a special form =
that some of you are buying for this type of work? The glaze also ran =
consideraly, where before it was very stable over the range that I had =
fired it (cone 5 to cone 6 touching). Test, test, test. This test was =
only to cone 6 in the 2 o'clock position then and hour on medium before =
firing down. This was as planned, as an Albany Slip glaze that I am =
working on reached its maxium melt in the Cone 6 all the way down =
firing.
More on the Albany Slip Glaze, hydrometer, and pyrometer used in another =
post for those interested. Also the ash glazes were the best. Maybe =
the woodfiring can wait a while longer.
Julene, still waiting for Northern Wisconsin to thaw
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