Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman on thu 27 mar 03
An alternate way to make a glaze book is to buy a computer program for
glazes (that will also help with glaze calculation, and understanding
glazes) that also has a data base. Enter your recipes in the program, and
print them out. Keep at least one backup of your glaze files on a disk or CD
off site. Keep at least one copy of your glazes in those nice clear page
protectors for in a 3 ring binder.
John Hesselberth's new program Glaze Master, is excellent, is currently
reasonably priced at $50 plus shipping, is available for either Mac or PC,
is available for testing by download. I was one of many beta testers, and I
am a long-time Hyperglaze user. I still use my Hyperglaze data base, but I'm
using my Macintosh computer less and less, so it's nice to have a program
for my PC, and by the way, John's program is newer and better. (No
offense intended to Richard Burkett, who did such a great job on NCECA in
San Diego, who makes fabulous pots, and who was far ahead of his time in
writing Hyperglaze.)
Go to:
http://www.masteringglazes.com/Pages/GM1frame.html
to look at this great program. No need to ever misplace your glazes again!
Usual disclaimers, no financial affiliation with John or the program, just
giving praise where I believe it is due.
Bonnie
----- Original Message -----
From: "L. P. Skeen"
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 5:16 PM
Subject: Glaze recipe books
Lily makes a point about keeping the glaze recipe book safe from marauders.
Sometimes you have to keep it safe from yourself! :)
How to make a glaze recipe book:
Go to Office Despot. Look in the 3-ring binder department for a black and
gray speckled binder that's about 1.5" wide and has a crease HORIZONTALLY
about 2/3 down the spine and both covers. This is a self supporting binder;
when open, it will stand up off the table by itself.
Go to the page protector department and buy a box o' page protectors for
3-ring binders.
Go to the divider tabs department and get one set of tabs for a 3-ring
binder.
Go home and type each recipe in LARGE, BOLD ARIAL FONT (at least 18 point).
You might be able to get two per page. When you've got all your recipes
typed, put them in the page protectors (2 pages per protector, back to back)
according to firing temperature. IE: don't put a ^10 glaze in the same
protector with a ^6 glaze.
Get out the divider tabs. Mark one LOW FIRE GLAZES. To me, that's anything
less than ^4. Put the tab in the stand-up-notebook, place all low fire
glazes behind that. Mark the next tab MID RANGE GLAZES, and put recipes for
^ 4-8 in there. Mark the next one HIGH FIRE GLAZES and put the recipes ^9
and above behind that one.
Mark your next divider tab CLAYBODY RECIPES, if you use 'em, and put body
recipes behind that one.
Mark the next one FIRING CHART and put your firing charts (dated!!!) behind
that. These don't have to be in page protectors unless you're just into it
by then. ;0)
Mark the next one NOTES, and put some notebook paper in there.
The recipes are writ large so that you can read them from across the room,
because sometimes your ingredients are not located beside the table where
the recipe book is sitting. They are in page protectors because you WILL
splash stuff all over the place. Also, when you find a recipe that looks
like crap on a cracker, you can pitch it with ease. :) If you only put one
glaze per page, you can put notes about the glaze at the bottom of the page.
I set my recipe book up like this when I was in college, and have been using
it since. :) **If you're a cook, you can make your homemade cookbook like
this, too. Translate all Grandma's recipes into large font! :)
L
L. P. Skeen www.living-tree.net
Living Tree Pottery, Summerfield, NC
Get your copy of the 2003 Clay Lover's Calendar
at my website above! :)
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Marcia Selsor on thu 27 mar 03
I always kept a recipe box with index cards in it as well as my recipe
book. The box was kept in the glaze room.
Then from the index cards which had 100, 5000, 10,000 gram equivalents
written on them, I would "tick off" the ingredients as I mixed them.
Marcia
Culling wrote:
> Lily makes a point about keeping the glaze recipe book safe from
> marauders. Sometimes you have to keep it safe from yourself! :)
>
> I was taught to re-write the recipe -in the office- then tick off the
> ingredients as thyey are added - doesn't damage the original or get lost and
> doesn't leave the office to get damaged. Has stood me in good stead. I also
> date them and kep them (the copies) in the glaze room so as to be able to
> check the materials if there is a problem with the firing
> steph
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Tuscany in 2003
http://home.attbi.com/~m.selsor/Tuscany2003.html
L. P. Skeen on thu 27 mar 03
Lily makes a point about keeping the glaze recipe book safe from =
marauders. Sometimes you have to keep it safe from yourself! :)=20
How to make a glaze recipe book:
Go to Office Despot. Look in the 3-ring binder department for a black =
and gray speckled binder that's about 1.5" wide and has a crease =
HORIZONTALLY about 2/3 down the spine and both covers. This is a self =
supporting binder; when open, it will stand up off the table by itself.
Go to the page protector department and buy a box o' page protectors for =
3-ring binders.
Go to the divider tabs department and get one set of tabs for a 3-ring =
binder.
Go home and type each recipe in LARGE, BOLD ARIAL FONT (at least 18 =
point). You might be able to get two per page. When you've got all =
your recipes typed, put them in the page protectors (2 pages per =
protector, back to back) according to firing temperature. IE: don't =
put a ^10 glaze in the same protector with a ^6 glaze.
Get out the divider tabs. Mark one LOW FIRE GLAZES. To me, that's =
anything less than ^4. Put the tab in the stand-up-notebook, place all =
low fire glazes behind that. Mark the next tab MID RANGE GLAZES, and =
put recipes for ^ 4-8 in there. Mark the next one HIGH FIRE GLAZES and =
put the recipes ^9 and above behind that one.
Mark your next divider tab CLAYBODY RECIPES, if you use 'em, and put =
body recipes behind that one. =20
Mark the next one FIRING CHART and put your firing charts (dated!!!) =
behind that. These don't have to be in page protectors unless you're =
just into it by then. ;0)
Mark the next one NOTES, and put some notebook paper in there.
The recipes are writ large so that you can read them from across the =
room, because sometimes your ingredients are not located beside the =
table where the recipe book is sitting. They are in page protectors =
because you WILL splash stuff all over the place. Also, when you find a =
recipe that looks like crap on a cracker, you can pitch it with ease. :) =
If you only put one glaze per page, you can put notes about the glaze =
at the bottom of the page. I set my recipe book up like this when I was =
in college, and have been using it since. :) **If you're a cook, you =
can make your homemade cookbook like this, too. Translate all Grandma's =
recipes into large font! :)
L
L. P. Skeen www.living-tree.net
Living Tree Pottery, Summerfield, NC
Get your copy of the 2003 Clay Lover's Calendar
at my website above! :)
Earl Brunner on fri 28 mar 03
I use GlazeChem software on my laptop. The program and files of formula
are periodically burned to CD to prevent loss of data. When I'm mixing
glazes I look at each of the buckets that need mixing and determine how
much I want of each, (2,000, 3,000 5,000 gram batches, etc.). I then
have the program convert the recipe to batch size (my default is 100% or
100 grams). I write it down on official studio stationary (paper towels)
and don't save the changes (it reverts back to the percentage formula).
I also keep the studio chemical inventory in Excel with the preferred
amount listed. I do inventory, put the numbers into the program, and it
automatically tells me how much I need to order.
Earl Brunner
Culling wrote:
> Lily makes a point about keeping the glaze recipe book safe from
> marauders. Sometimes you have to keep it safe from yourself! :)
>
> I was taught to re-write the recipe -in the office- then tick off the
> ingredients as thyey are added - doesn't damage the original or get lost and
> doesn't leave the office to get damaged. Has stood me in good stead. I also
> date them and kep them (the copies) in the glaze room so as to be able to
> check the materials if there is a problem with the firing
> steph
>
karen gringhuis on fri 28 mar 03
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:32:48 +0800
Steph makes a VERY GOOD POINT about checking off the
ingredients as you mix the glaze and KEEPING that
working copy in case of error in firing - also error
in MIXING! Gives you some hope of correcting without
dumping the whole batch. Been there, done that!
Suggestion: If you have Hyperglaze, print all recipes
with UMF. Computer print working copies - no chance
of copying error. (Leaves us free to screw it up some
other way.)
---------------
I was taught to re-write the recipe -in the office-
then tick off the
ingredients as thyey are added - doesn't damage the
original or get lost and
doesn't leave the office to get damaged. Has stood me
in good stead. I also
date them and kep them (the copies) in the glaze room
so as to be able to
check the materials if there is a problem with the
firing
steph
=====
Karen Gringhuis
KG Pottery
Box 607 Alfred NY 14802
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
Culling on fri 28 mar 03
Lily makes a point about keeping the glaze recipe book safe from
marauders. Sometimes you have to keep it safe from yourself! :)
I was taught to re-write the recipe -in the office- then tick off the
ingredients as thyey are added - doesn't damage the original or get lost and
doesn't leave the office to get damaged. Has stood me in good stead. I also
date them and kep them (the copies) in the glaze room so as to be able to
check the materials if there is a problem with the firing
steph
Kathy Greaves on sat 29 mar 03
We reorganized Sierra College's glaze recipe book using those page
protectors awhile ago, and it's worked pretty well considering the book is
used by many students. The students are instructed to use a dry erase
marker on the page protected recipe to tick off the ingredients, then wipe
off the tick marks when they're done.
Kathy
----Original Message------
From: Bonnie/Jeremy Hellman
Subject: Glaze recipe books
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
An alternate way to make a glaze book is to buy a computer program for
glazes (that will also help with glaze calculation, and understanding
glazes) that also has a data base. Enter your recipes in the program, and
print them out. Keep at least one backup of your glaze files on a disk or CD
off site. Keep at least one copy of your glazes in those nice clear page
protectors for in a 3 ring binder.
John Hesselberth's new program Glaze Master, is excellent, is currently
reasonably priced at $50 plus shipping, is available for either Mac or PC,
is available for testing by download. I was one of many beta testers, and I
am a long-time Hyperglaze user. I still use my Hyperglaze data base, but I'm
using my Macintosh computer less and less, so it's nice to have a program
for my PC, and by the way, John's program is newer and better. (No
offense intended to Richard Burkett, who did such a great job on NCECA in
San Diego, who makes fabulous pots, and who was far ahead of his time in
writing Hyperglaze.)
Go to:
http://www.masteringglazes.com/Pages/GM1frame.html
to look at this great program. No need to ever misplace your glazes again!
Usual disclaimers, no financial affiliation with John or the program, just
giving praise where I believe it is due.
Bonnie
----- Original Message -----
From: "L. P. Skeen"
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 5:16 PM
Subject: Glaze recipe books
Lily makes a point about keeping the glaze recipe book safe from marauders.
Sometimes you have to keep it safe from yourself! :)
How to make a glaze recipe book:
Go to Office Despot. Look in the 3-ring binder department for a black and
gray speckled binder that's about 1.5" wide and has a crease HORIZONTALLY
about 2/3 down the spine and both covers. This is a self supporting binder;
when open, it will stand up off the table by itself.
Go to the page protector department and buy a box o' page protectors for
3-ring binders.
Go to the divider tabs department and get one set of tabs for a 3-ring
binder.
Go home and type each recipe in LARGE, BOLD ARIAL FONT (at least 18 point).
You might be able to get two per page. When you've got all your recipes
typed, put them in the page protectors (2 pages per protector, back to back)
according to firing temperature. IE: don't put a ^10 glaze in the same
protector with a ^6 glaze.
Get out the divider tabs. Mark one LOW FIRE GLAZES. To me, that's anything
less than ^4. Put the tab in the stand-up-notebook, place all low fire
glazes behind that. Mark the next tab MID RANGE GLAZES, and put recipes for
^ 4-8 in there. Mark the next one HIGH FIRE GLAZES and put the recipes ^9
and above behind that one.
Mark your next divider tab CLAYBODY RECIPES, if you use 'em, and put body
recipes behind that one.
Mark the next one FIRING CHART and put your firing charts (dated!!!) behind
that. These don't have to be in page protectors unless you're just into it
by then. ;0)
Mark the next one NOTES, and put some notebook paper in there.
The recipes are writ large so that you can read them from across the room,
because sometimes your ingredients are not located beside the table where
the recipe book is sitting. They are in page protectors because you WILL
splash stuff all over the place. Also, when you find a recipe that looks
like crap on a cracker, you can pitch it with ease. :) If you only put one
glaze per page, you can put notes about the glaze at the bottom of the page.
I set my recipe book up like this when I was in college, and have been using
it since. :) **If you're a cook, you can make your homemade cookbook like
this, too. Translate all Grandma's recipes into large font! :)
L
L. P. Skeen www.living-tree.net
Living Tree Pottery, Summerfield, NC
Get your copy of the 2003 Clay Lover's Calendar
at my website above! :)
annsemple on sun 30 mar 03
Ivor
Good idea.
And if you vary the colour, and perhaps use the glaze thus describe to
create a border for the tile, then you can tile the wall adjacent to your
glaze area and have then easily available and decorative at the same time.
>>I like the fireproof option, a permanent record.
Make a good sized sample tile and write the recipe on the back in Iron
Oxide.<<
Ann
annsemple@shaw.ca
oooO
( )Clayfoot Crockery
\ ( Victoria, B.C. Canada
\ _ )
Catherine White on sun 30 mar 03
I had to send a thank you for this idea. The combination of the tile recipe
and then tiling a wall area is fantastic. Much better than my
space-consuming test pots in disarray on pegboard hooks with the name and
recipe elsewhere. Thanks to Ivor and Ann..............
Catherine in Yuma, AZ
> Ivor
> Good idea.
> And if you vary the colour, and perhaps use the glaze thus describe to
> create a border for the tile, then you can tile the wall adjacent to your
> glaze area and have then easily available and decorative at the same time.
>
> >>I like the fireproof option, a permanent record.
> Make a good sized sample tile and write the recipe on the back in Iron
> Oxide.<<
>
> Ann
Guy Watson on wed 21 jul 04
I am looking for a good glaze recipe book which contains illustrations of
the glaze. I am primarilly interested in low temperature 06 to 04 recipes.
I realize there will likeley not be a book solely for low temperature
glazes but would like recommendations for a book which has a fair number
of low temp glazes. I also work with lead frits on occasion so lead glazes
would be OK. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated---Guy
Cynthia Bracker on wed 21 jul 04
I would suggest:
"The Glaze Book" by Stephen Murfitt, which has about 95 pages devoted to
Earthenware glazes, generally about 3 recipes per page and each recipe
has a test chip picture next to it. Very nicely done (also has
Stoneware and Porcelain recipes as well as several useful appendices)
"The Ceramic Glaze Handbook" by Mark Burleson is also a great reference
for mixing glazes at any temperature. I HIGHLY recommend it.
"Surface Decoration for Low Fire Ceramics" by Lynn Peters is primarily a
technique/project book but has some recipes. Also a good book to have
on your shelf in general if you work in low-fire ceramics.
"The Ceramic Surface" by Matthias Osterman - I didn't have this one in
stock, so I couldn't look through it to see how applicable it is to your
request, but it is also a good book to have. Osterman also wrote "The
New Maiolica" which might also be of interest to you.
"Ceramic Glazemaking" by Richard Behrens has a lot of glaze recipes in
it, many of them containing lead, but no pictures. This book is from
the now discontinued ACerS Ceramic Handbook series, so if you even think
you might want it, get it now. It's not too expensive as books go
(retail at $9.95 I think)
Good luck!
Cindy Bracker
"Book Department"
Bracker's Good Earth Clays, Inc.
Guy Watson wrote:
>I am looking for a good glaze recipe book which contains illustrations of
>the glaze. I am primarilly interested in low temperature 06 to 04 recipes.
>I realize there will likeley not be a book solely for low temperature
>glazes but would like recommendations for a book which has a fair number
>of low temp glazes. I also work with lead frits on occasion so lead glazes
>would be OK. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated---Guy
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
>
John Anthony on wed 21 jul 04
Below is a review from Amazon.com of the Stephen Murfitt book, pointing
out the several of the glazes leached lead. Not necessarily an issue
on sculptural ware, but perhaps a firing issue if you don't want to be
firing glazes containing lead bisilicate.
John A
review from Amazon.com:
Although the book is nicely presented with durable
material/cover/binding, it was a major dissapointment...Almost all the
earthenware formulas have Lead Bisilicate in them!!! The remaining few
are made up of colourants/stains and ready made mixtures! The stoneware
and porcelain parts look good, but hey.. most of the hobbyists and
amateurs like me fire at low temperatures! I don't recommend it at all.
While doing research for some new earthenware glazes I came upon this
book which has a large section dedicated to that subject (as well as
raku, majolica, stoneware and porcelain).
The test tile examples are beutiful and it is laid out in a different
fashion than normal; by color not colorant. I found that to be helpful.
Then I started reading the glaze recipes.... a MAJOR percentage of the
earthenware recipes use lead bisilicate. I was sceptical, but since
some of the glazes were marked for "Domestic" use I decided to try them
out.
That ended up being a colosal waste of time, energy and money. All
eight glazes that I tested for "Domestic" use leached lead in testing
at home. I don't know how one would begin to use or sell glazes that
leach lead. From a practical view I don't think I would ever be able to
tell a customer that it's a lead glaze, but not to worry '""cause this
book I got the recipe from said it was okay to eat off of."
I'm quite disappointed. For people who do low-fire ceramics (which
would be about every grade school , junior high, hobby-ist...I know of)
this is most definately NOT the book for you. The author needs to be a
little more up front about what's in the recipes and exactly what kind
of lead leach test those recipes passed to be considered for "Domestic"
use.
Someone out there needs to write a very comprehensive book in the same
style for just low-fire ceramics that may include these glazes (along
with alkaline glazes etc....), but be more realistic about usages.
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