Russel Fouts on thu 27 mar 03
Jean
>> "Do not store Paper Clay for a long period, as it develops a mould that is very dangerous" <<
I got some data from Health and Safety Consultant to the Arts Monona
Rossol a few years back. There are some molds that grow on celulose that
can be very dangerous. This can make the paperclay dangerous. Also, many
people have allergies to molds, which paperclay grows a lot of.
Bleach helps but the effect wears off. I've found that a product
available here called "Thymol" works better. It's comes in crystal form,
a couple of small crystals disolved in water will treat a LOT of
paperclay for a long time.
Thymol can also be hazardous, libraries use the crystals in a fumigation
box to treat interlibrary loans for book damaging bugs.
I'm pretty sure that comercially made paperclay must contain fungicides
to prevent the mold because people report that it usually doesn't mold
as quickly.
The best thing is to make up and use the paperclay quickly so it doesn't
have a chance to mold. Storing dry is better than storing wet. I've
found that storing it and using it as a slop is best (for my purposes)
Russel
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Susan Setley on thu 27 mar 03
In a message dated 3/27/03 5:32:01 AM, russel.fouts@SKYNET.BE writes:
<< Bleach helps but the effect wears off. I've found that a product
available here called "Thymol" works better. It's comes in crystal form,
a couple of small crystals disolved in water will treat a LOT of
paperclay for a long time. >>
"Bleach helps but the effect wears off. I've found that a product
available here called "Thymol" works better. It's comes in crystal form,
a couple of small crystals disolved in water will treat a LOT of
paperclay for a long time."
Does that have mercury in it?
Jim Murphy on thu 27 mar 03
Your question reminded me of a past Clay Times article (Sept/Oct '99) by Ian
Gregory. I believe Mr. Gregory is well-known for paperclay.
In the article, Mr. Gregory reccommends adding "a spoonful of mild
disinfectant similar to that used to disinfect diaper pails when you mix the
clay (but do not use bleach)."
I don't know what's in the mild disinfectant he referenced.
FWIW, I'm guessing bleach is not reccommended due to release of Chlorine gas
during firing - only my own guess though.
Best wishes,
Jim Murphy
Bob Santerre on thu 27 mar 03
Have a look at these sites:
Medical use: http://www.dermadoctor.com/product.asp?productID=701
Tox info: http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/TH/thymol.html
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Susan Setley wrote:
>In a message dated 3/27/03 5:32:01 AM, russel.fouts@SKYNET.BE writes:
>
><< Bleach helps but the effect wears off. I've found that a product
>available here called "Thymol" works better. It's comes in crystal form,
>a couple of small crystals disolved in water will treat a LOT of
>paperclay for a long time. >>
>
>"Bleach helps but the effect wears off. I've found that a product
>available here called "Thymol" works better. It's comes in crystal form,
>a couple of small crystals disolved in water will treat a LOT of
>paperclay for a long time."
>
>Does that have mercury in it?
>
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Rick Monteverde on thu 27 mar 03
RE: paper clay molds & bacteria -
I mentioned sometime before that colloidal silver had worked well in my wet=
paper clay batches. Very small amounts of silver are deadly to many=
microbes, and the effect is long lasting. Do google on colloidal silver,=
but watch out for a quack attack. Despite all the newage sewage, it really=
does work. ; )
- RM
L. P. Skeen on thu 27 mar 03
Could be that industrial strength stinky LYSOL in the brown
bottle.........but that assumes that one is making one's own pclay. Now
that clay makers have figured out the excellence of pclay, we can buy it
ready made. :)
L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Murphy"
> In the article, Mr. Gregory reccommends adding "a spoonful of mild
> disinfectant similar to that used to disinfect diaper pails when you mix
the
> clay (but do not use bleach)."
>
> I don't know what's in the mild disinfectant he referenced.
Ababi on fri 28 mar 03
Too dangerous! Even in my primitive country it is out of use!
---------- Original Message ----------
>Could be that industrial strength stinky LYSOL in the brown
>bottle.........but that assumes that one is making one's own pclay. Now
>that clay makers have figured out the excellence of pclay, we can buy it
>ready made. :)
RAYMOND W GONZALEZ on sat 29 mar 03
In seeing all this discussion about paperclay, I had to add some insights.
I have used paper in my casting slip for some time now. The use of
additives (including paper and nylon) improve workability and strength of
clay in its wet and dry form. I do use paper linters which can be obtained
from a fine paper manufacturing facility. I got out of undergrad with ample
supply of paper linter. The reason that this paper is preferred over toilet
paper is the fiber length. I have been told that toilet paper has a shorter
fiber length and thus is less preferable. I disolve the paper in a little
warm water and blend with my hand blender. This resulting blended paper
slurry is then added to my clay, about a handful to 200 pounds of wet clay
(assuming that you are using a clay mixer.) THIS PAPER DOES HAVE A LIFE
EXPECTANCY. The mold that many are speaking of is detoriating paper fiber.
This detioriation is also associated with a foul odor. I have been able to
keep paper hydrated in water for a month or so, but after that, it is
questionable.
Yes, as we all know, mold in clay is good. Mold in paper is not. Just as
the paper breaks down in water, it breaks down in slip and clay. This
defeats the benefits of having the paper in there. Therefore, I only add
the paper if I know that I am going to use the clay within the given
life-expectancy of the paper pulp.
Paper has various great advantages over other material (including nylon
mentioned below.) One of which i have see mentioned here. That is the
ability to absorb water. Work can be pretty dry, moistened with a sprayer,
and be workable much faster than by other means. It also works like little
tubes that carry the water throughout the body: so if one area is more moist
than the other it will even it out faster..
Paper is not (as far as i know) toxic. That, i am not completely sure of
though. I am sure that there is some process in the production that adds
some chemical.... in so far as firing, it is pretty much like firing a
small amount of newspaper in your kiln. i am sure in ten-thousand years,
your elements will need to be changed.
An alternative to paper is nylon fiber. Nylon fiber IS TOXIC WHEN FIRED!!
As far as i know, it has no life expectancy in the clay, and it is for this
reason that I use it in my clay rather than paper. I have not used it in
slip as it is a little coarser than paper. Nylon can be obtained relatively
cheaply through Standard Ceramic Supply (I think in New York. The catalog
is in my studio.) You may want to check out claystation.com. I am not sure
that there is more information there, but that would be my starting point.
Nylon is used in the pouring of concrete as well. This nylon fiber is much
longer and much courser than the nylon that I use.
Hope this gives you a little more information in the use of additives to
your clay body. If you have any questions, please contact me off-list at my
listed email address.
Best of luck in your endevours,
Ray
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