Graeme Anderson on thu 10 apr 03
I came across this interesting site. ( www.antiqueresources.com )
Go to Restoration, then Featured Articles on the list on the left.
The article on cleaning pottery said to use peroxide, and not to use bleach
for a long soaking period.
Then I remembered the mail to Clayart back in February, 8th. and 9th. -
"trenchmouth" etc. and the use of bleach.
There are some other interesting articles on Antique Resources, dealing
with clay.
Cheers, Graeme.
Kathryn Whitaker on fri 11 apr 03
I have a piece of ancient Iznik pottery that had a ring of mineral buildup
around the bottom. I used vinegar and water to remove it. I don't know if
that is the right thing to do, but it worked like a charm. The beautiful
bright colors of the Iznik pottery came right through.
Kathryn
On 4/10/03 10:10 PM, "Graeme Anderson" wrote:
> I came across this interesting site. ( www.antiqueresources.com )
> Go to Restoration, then Featured Articles on the list on the left.
> The article on cleaning pottery said to use peroxide, and not to use bleach
> for a long soaking period.
> Then I remembered the mail to Clayart back in February, 8th. and 9th. -
> "trenchmouth" etc. and the use of bleach.
> There are some other interesting articles on Antique Resources, dealing
> with clay.
> Cheers, Graeme.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
J. B. Clauson on fri 11 apr 03
In this article the author, Andrea Daley, says "If the item has a fired
finish there are few cleaning chemicals that will damage it. If the finish
is not fired, then most of the cleaning chemicals will either distort the
finish by making it appear streaky or possibly remove it." How the heck do
you get an "unfired" piece of ceramic to hold together? I think she means
bisqued, not fully vitrified or porous - non unfired! To me, this makes the
information in the rest of the article suspect.
I sent an E-mail to their "Ask the Experts" section inquiring. Anybody out
there know something I don't know? (Well, of course you do! I just mean
about ceramics having to be fired.)
Jan C.
Raoul Swahn on fri 11 apr 03
If you have access to a kiln you can always clean pottery by refiring it. I´m talking about functional non-ancient goods of course. I once did this with a mouldy tea-pot.
>From: Graeme Anderson
>Reply-To: Clayart
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Cleaning pottery
>Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:10:05 -0400
>
>I came across this interesting site. ( www.antiqueresources.com )
>Go to Restoration, then Featured Articles on the list on the left.
>The article on cleaning pottery said to use peroxide, and not to use bleach
>for a long soaking period.
>Then I remembered the mail to Clayart back in February, 8th. and 9th. -
> "trenchmouth" etc. and the use of bleach.
>There are some other interesting articles on Antique Resources, dealing
>with clay.
>Cheers, Graeme.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
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Snail Scott on fri 11 apr 03
At 08:56 AM 4/11/03 -0700, you wrote:
>...the author, Andrea Daley, says..."If the finish
>is not fired, then most of the cleaning chemicals will either distort the
>finish by making it appear streaky or possibly remove it." How the heck do
>you get an "unfired" piece of ceramic to hold together?
>...To me, this makes the
information in the rest of the article suspect...
She said the FINISH is unfired, not the clay! Many
pieces of decorative ceramics are painted, lacquered,
gold-leafed, varnished, waxed, or otherwise coated
in non-fired materials. Inappropriate for dinnerware,
to be sure, but there are many other kinds of ceramic
work, with a nearly infinite range of surface finishes
chosen for purposes other than resisting silverware
and regular washing. Many magnificent works of art
have been created in fired clay using non-fired
surface finishes, to accomplish an aesthetic intent
not achievable with glazes or other fired surfaces.
-Snail
Marianne Lombardo on fri 11 apr 03
About a month ago I got the "bright" idea to try and clean the grout on my
kitchen floor tiles. Disaster. We scrubbed the product in with a
toothbrush, let sit, and rinsed off. The cleaning product left the tiles
with a dull, streaked appearance. These were commercial, good quality,
glazed tiles, professionally installed.
Marianne
> In this article the author, Andrea Daley, says "If the item has a fired
> finish there are few cleaning chemicals that will damage it. If the finish
> is not fired, then most of the cleaning chemicals will either distort the
> finish by making it appear streaky or possibly remove it." How the heck
do
> you get an "unfired" piece of ceramic to hold together? I think she means
> bisqued, not fully vitrified or porous - non unfired! To me, this makes
the
> information in the rest of the article suspect.
>
Dannon Rhudy on fri 11 apr 03
J.B. Clauson said:
.......Andrea Daley, says "If the item has a fired
> finish there are few cleaning chemicals that will damage it. If the finish
> is not fired, then most of the cleaning chemicals will either distort the
> finish by making it appear streaky or possibly remove it." .........
She was probably referring to painted finishes, or other "room
temperature glazes" that are found on ceramics fairly frequently.
regards
Dannon Rhudy
J. B. Clauson on fri 11 apr 03
Thank you, Snail. That will teach me to read more carefully. The author
does indeed say the finish is unfired. I wonder if they have night school
classes in reading anywhere around here. I feel like such a ditz.
Jan C.
J. B. Clauson on fri 11 apr 03
I have tiled counters in my kitchen and don't you know the grout in them
gets really bad. I have used an oxygen bleach solution in combination with
a good detergent to clean them and this has worked quite well. You still
have to get down and scrub with a toothbrush, but it has never hurt the
tiles. These are commercial tiles, white and probably installed about 30
years ago. After cleaning and regrouting wherever needed, I reseal the
surface.
Jan C.
Bob Nicholson on sat 12 apr 03
>
>Just a brief correction: china paints ARE fired on,
>but at lower temperatures than their underlying glaze.
>
> -Snail
Sorry - you're right.
- Bob
Bob Nicholson on sat 12 apr 03
>In this article the author, Andrea Daley, says "If the item has a fired
>finish there are few cleaning chemicals that will damage it. If the finish
>is not fired, then most of the cleaning chemicals will either distort the
>finish by making it appear streaky or possibly remove it." How the heck do
>you get an "unfired" piece of ceramic to hold together? I think she means
>bisqued, not fully vitrified or porous - non unfired! To me, this makes the
>information in the rest of the article suspect.
There are several types of ceramics finishes, such as China Painting or
gold leaf, that are not fired. These finishes can be easily damaged by
cleaning solvents. I believe the article means exactly what it says.
Snail Scott on sat 12 apr 03
At 09:30 AM 4/12/03 -0700, you wrote:
>There are several types of ceramics finishes, such as China Painting or
>gold leaf, that are not fired...
Just a brief correction: china paints ARE fired on,
but at lower temperatures than their underlying glaze.
-Snail
Graeme Anderson on sun 13 apr 03
Actually, the article I was referring to did not refer to unfired finishes.
Try again - www.antiqueresources.com - go to "Restoration",
then "Featured Articles" from the list on the left of the page. The
article I referred to is by Jerry McCracken, 08/13/99, and is "Cleaning
Your Pottery Items".
Cheers. Graeme.
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