David Lane on thu 17 apr 03
Hi everyone.....my first post to the group.
I'll be buying my first kiln soon for my home and have it narrowed down to
the Bailey 2927 Cone 10 with computer and Orton vent. Before I chunk down
the big bucks (for me) I'd love to hear feedback from anyone with
knowledge of this kiln.
Also on my short list are the Skutt KM-1227PK computer Cone 10 kiln, and
the L&L JD2927-3 Cone 10 with computer.
Appreciate any advice,
David
Ilene Mahler on thu 17 apr 03
I love my skutt 1027 3 inch brick with the controller..I fire for crystals
12-15 hous this way I fire overnite and wake up to the end of the soak
cycle...I will have it 2 years in July I did buy the envirovent vent with
it...Good luck.The 2 reasons were it is a plug in the wall(not direct wiring
which I think the bailey is) and my clayman said it had the least repairs
and I had a 2 year warantee....Ilene in Conn awaiting a crystalline flat
load (plates etc.)to cool now at 889......
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Lane"
To:
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 10:05 AM
Subject: Bailey 2927-10 CONE 10 kiln
> Hi everyone.....my first post to the group.
>
> I'll be buying my first kiln soon for my home and have it narrowed down to
> the Bailey 2927 Cone 10 with computer and Orton vent. Before I chunk down
> the big bucks (for me) I'd love to hear feedback from anyone with
> knowledge of this kiln.
>
> Also on my short list are the Skutt KM-1227PK computer Cone 10 kiln, and
> the L&L JD2927-3 Cone 10 with computer.
>
> Appreciate any advice,
> David
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Bob Santerre on thu 17 apr 03
David,
I have had Bailey's model 2750 for 2+ years. Very fine kiln, solid as a
rock, even firing, heavy duty elements. Came with the Bartlett 3 zone,
8 step controller (plus the Dawson kiln sitter, excellent back-up in
case the controller screws up). I use it primarily for bisque firing,
low-fire glaze and lustre work 022-04. Have taken it to cone 8 on a few
firings. It came factory set for 5 degree offsets between zones. This
didn't work - constantly going into error. Was advised to reset offsets
to 10 degrees between zones, that solved the problem. I've had 2 minor
problems that Jim Bailey responded to immediately. A cooling fan
started whining (more like a loud wail) and they shipped a new one the
next day and instructed me over the phone on replacement...simple. Had
some problems understanding the controller manual and the LED codes
being displayed. Jim B. gave me Dave Bartlett's phone number and he
cleared up my confusion with one call. I'm totally pleased with it's
performance ... wish I had purchased their hood and fume vent system.
... I may still.
One complaint that remains unresolved ..... the spy holes are about 1/2
inch diameter and essentially useless (visualize a 7 inch long 1/2 inch
dia tube), too small to get a good look at witness cones. I've
threatened to drill some larger holes through the steel jacket and soft
brick, but haven't done it yet. Wouldn't be a big deal, I'm just a
world-class procrastinator.
Shipping was expensive, built like a Sherman tank. First couple of
firings (cone 8) produced a lot of smoke from a variety of lubricated
surfaces and joints .. no problem after that.
No good way to crack the door (front-loader) to run a 150 degree drying
cycle before firing up to bisque so I've jury rigged a little cap for
the door switch that allows the circuit to be completed with the door
cracked open about 2-3 inches. Doing this I heat/dry the ware over-nite
and then remove the cap, close up the kiln and start the bisque firing
in the AM. Obviously this circumvents the safety feature of the door
interlock switch, so you gotta make sure nobody's going to accidently
stick a hand in the kiln if you do this. I put up a barrier with a big
sign -STAY AWAY KILN IS ON!
Hope this helps ... probably more info than you needed, Bob
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
David Lane wrote:
>Hi everyone.....my first post to the group.
>
>I'll be buying my first kiln soon for my home and have it narrowed down to
>the Bailey 2927 Cone 10 with computer and Orton vent. Before I chunk down
>the big bucks (for me) I'd love to hear feedback from anyone with
>knowledge of this kiln.
>
>Also on my short list are the Skutt KM-1227PK computer Cone 10 kiln, and
>the L&L JD2927-3 Cone 10 with computer.
>
>Appreciate any advice,
>David
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
David Lane on fri 18 apr 03
I've also been wondering if maybe I should be considering a smaller kiln.
The Bailey 2927-10 has a 29"x27" interior which I figured would be a good
size (bigger is better?) - but it takes more amps and will require more
pots to fill it up before I can fire. Would it be better to go with a
smaller kiln like the Bailey 2327-10 and fire more often or go with the
bigger kiln like I originally planned? I'm hoping to market my pots
locally and will probably produce several functional pieces a month (approx
30-60). Not a full-time business, mostly for fun as I approach retirement.
Anyone with an opinion, please jump in.
Thanks,
David
David Lane on sat 19 apr 03
Cindy....thanks for the input. I throw mostly larger vases and bowls with
a lesser amount of mugs and small pieces so maybe I should stick with the
larger kiln.
Since I'm enclosing my back porch to use as a studio, I'm interested in
your remarks regarding electric power. My house has a 200 amp main service
panel. I think I need an 80 amp breaker for the Bailey 2927-10. The
electrician said I'd have to have the oven and all the stove burners on,
the spa on, and be heating the house (not likely here in south Florida)
before it might trip the main breaker. What size service do you have?
David
>Hi David
>I personally believe it depends on a couple factors.
>1. If you are primarily a wheel thrower, you can throw a lot in a session,
>and sometimes one throwing session won't fit in the 7 cubic foot model.
But
>this is not really a problem unless you are throwing every day and the kiln
>has to keep up with your production; instead you just do 2 loads. With the
>quantity you are talking, the 7 cubic foot would be fine.
>2. Probably more important is the size of the work. If you are planning to
>make large pieces they take up and also seem to waste a lot more space. I
>found that the larger I went with the pieces, the more I wanted a larger
>kiln. If I'm just making mugs and bowls and small vases I am happy with
the
>7 cubic foot, but I always want to make larger things that won't fit in
>mine.
>3. The drawback of the higher amp kiln is that you might move somewhere
else
>that doesn't have enough power. My house is underpowered and I can't get a
>larger kiln because of it, without paying about $5000 to bring in another
>line.
>
>Cindi
>Fremont, CA
>
>.----- Original Message -----
>> I've also been wondering if maybe I should be considering a smaller kiln.
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Cindi Anderson on sat 19 apr 03
Hi David
I personally believe it depends on a couple factors.
1. If you are primarily a wheel thrower, you can throw a lot in a session,
and sometimes one throwing session won't fit in the 7 cubic foot model. But
this is not really a problem unless you are throwing every day and the kiln
has to keep up with your production; instead you just do 2 loads. With the
quantity you are talking, the 7 cubic foot would be fine.
2. Probably more important is the size of the work. If you are planning to
make large pieces they take up and also seem to waste a lot more space. I
found that the larger I went with the pieces, the more I wanted a larger
kiln. If I'm just making mugs and bowls and small vases I am happy with the
7 cubic foot, but I always want to make larger things that won't fit in
mine.
3. The drawback of the higher amp kiln is that you might move somewhere else
that doesn't have enough power. My house is underpowered and I can't get a
larger kiln because of it, without paying about $5000 to bring in another
line.
Cindi
Fremont, CA
.----- Original Message -----
> I've also been wondering if maybe I should be considering a smaller kiln.
John Rodgers on sun 20 apr 03
David, I haven't followed all of this thread, but just a few comments here.
Go to your power panel an see if your service provides a main breaker.
Modern service boxes will have a master breaker rated for the service
from the transformer at the pole on the street, to the service box on
the house. This breaker is usually rated at 200 amps -- the most common
service, though some of the older homes will have a 100 amp breaker.
This breaker will turn off all the power in the house with one throw of
the switch. If you will open the circuit breaker panel you will see all
the various breakers that feed the various circuits in your house. Total
all the amperage ratings for each breaker in the box and that is the
total for your house. The total should not exceed 200. If your total is
greater that the 200 rating for the master breaker, then you have a
potential of drawing more amps than the service is rated for and you
could trip the master breaker if all your other circuits are on at the
same time.
Here is the catchy part, and you just have to decide for yourself as to
what to do. I can explain best by example. My kiln is rated at 60 amps.
I have an old house, and my total amps with my kiln circuit breaker is
20 amps over the max. For example, my total is 220 amps, yet the master
breaker is 200 amps. The cost of installing more power would be
prohibitive. So, accepting some risk that somebody might do something
stupid, I turn off the circuit breakers to my electric stove, and to my
clothes dryer, when I fire my kiln. Turning these two breakers OFF,
drops the potential amperage draw well below the max of the 200 amps on
the master breaker. So, tripping the master service breaker is not a
concern when I'm firing.
Of course this procedure rasies some insurance issues, etc, etc, but I
have a complete understanding of the process, I don't let anyone else
get involved in the process, and I accept the responsibility for my own
actions in this matter. The breakers are installed to avoid over heating
of wiring and subsequnt potential for a fire or other events. Nothing
weird or dangerous is going to happen if all wiring is according to
code, ie, connectors, wire sizes for the circuits, etc, etc. The master
breaker is there to preventand protect from exceeding the amp rating of
the power panel and the combined circuit limits established for the
house. Even if everthing in your house is installed by a master
electrician, if any one of your breakers fail in the closed position,
you WILL have a fire, period. The appliance or the the wiring will
overheat and burn. Modern breakers are designed to fail open, if they
fail at all, so most of the time is would never be a problem. IHowever,
if the breaker fails closed, you get a dead short, and a wire doesn't
burn through either in the appliance or in the wall somewhere, the
amperage draw just gets bigger and bigger until it reaches 200 amps and
the main breaker heats up and pops open thus killing the circuit. Most
likely at that point you would likely have a fire well under way
somewhere in the house.
Something most people don't know is that there is a 600 amp fuse out on
the pole by the transformer. That fuse is the ultimate protection for
the electrical grid serving your house. If that 200 amp master breaker
on your house doesn't break the circuit, that fuse on the pole will
break your house loose from the p0wer grid. If it did not, and you had a
continuous uncontrolled anperage drain, the community power grid could
be damaged and anybody working on putting your fire out could be
endangered from the high amperage electricity. Water from firehoses
sprayed on high voltage, high amperage electricity is a no-no!!
I used to be afraid of electricty. Didn't want to mess with it. Scared
of it. Didn't understand it. I was ignorant of it. And my ignorance
actually made me dangerous. I would encourage you to get some basic
house wiring books and a coulple on electrical fundamentals, and study
up. Educate yourself. Make the electricity work for you. Make it easier
for yourself to operate your kilns and other equipment. Respect that
electrical power, but don't be afraid of it. Understand it, know how to
work with it, and you will be a safer operator. But above all, maintain
your respect for it. It can and does kill, but there is no need to be
fearful of it to the point of inaction. Make it work for you.
I hope I have been of some help. If you have any questions, feel free to
ask.
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
David Lane wrote:
>I've also been wondering if maybe I should be considering a smaller kiln.
>The Bailey 2927-10 has a 29"x27" interior which I figured would be a good
>size (bigger is better?) - but it takes more amps and will require more
>pots to fill it up before I can fire. Would it be better to go with a
>smaller kiln like the Bailey 2327-10 and fire more often or go with the
>bigger kiln like I originally planned? I'm hoping to market my pots
>locally and will probably produce several functional pieces a month (approx
>30-60). Not a full-time business, mostly for fun as I approach retirement.
>
>Anyone with an opinion, please jump in.
>
>Thanks,
>David
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
| |
|
