Tony Ferguson on sat 19 apr 03
On single firing,
If there is enough clay, it will work.
Try glazing leather hard and bone dry, the clay and glaze will tell you
which one will work.
Try dipping and pouring at the above states.
If that does not work
Try spraying--this is pretty much fail safe.
If the glaze powders or flakes or rubs off, + CMC gum until it sticks
each glaze will have its "stick" threshold.
Test test test that is the only way to know.
I want to write a book on single firing
With artists across all temperature ranges and clay bodies
I can not do it alone and it would be arrogant to do so--
so many people with such skill and know how
combined testing = many lives and hours of work.
A place for people to start with things that work for us
and hopefully them too.
Environmentally better and you will accomplish more work in your life time
as an artist.
The work is actully physically stronger (whatever that is worth) as the clay
glaze interface is a stronger knit.
ALL the old pots you see: the porcelains, the stoneware, earthenwares
WERE ALL single fired.
And yes, even those huge porcelain vases of the Chinese, the Etruscan
caskets, etc, etc.
In the course of ceramic history, bisque, is relatively a new thing.
My friend, Ernest Miller, single fires porcelain (and large works) with
crystalline glazes
Amazing, beautiful, not magic, science, art, experiment, find what works.
It can be done.
Single firing requires a committment.
Do not fear, it is more work at first as you will certainly have some loss
And then less work (actually more because you end up making more work)
Anyone who tells you it doesn't work and the loss is "too high it not worth
it"
Does not know what they are talking about.
Thank you.
Tony Ferguson
On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hesselberth"
To:
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: Ron and John done singlefire
> On Saturday, April 19, 2003, at 02:34 PM, Klyf Brown wrote:
>
> > I am attempting to convert your glazes to single fire glazes and would
> > like to know if you (or any others on the list) may have any
> > suggestions for changes that should be made to the stock glazes in
> > your book, especially the liner glaze, waterfall brown, waxing brown
> > and verigated blue that will make single fire possible and easier. And
> > if
> > you recommend leatherhard or bone dry.
>
> Hi Klyf,
>
> Uh, secret decoder ring--wasn't Ron supposed to send you one? Ron,
> didn't you do that???
>
> With respect to single firing, I have never tried it with our glazes;
> however that doesn't mean it wouldn't work. One of the things common
> to good single firing glazes is a high clay content. Note that most of
> our glazes have that. The zinc base does not, but most of the others
> have 17-30% clay. So give them a try as is and let us know what
> happens. Try the high calcium semimattes (variegated slate blue is one
> of those) first as they have the highest clay content and then test
> some of the others. I don't have an opinion on leatherhard vs. bone
> dry, but Ron probably does--he hid some of that info in the secret
> compartment inside the secret decoder ring.
>
> Have fun and good luck,
>
> John
>
> http://www.frogpondpottery.com
> http://www.masteringglazes.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Klyf Brown on sat 19 apr 03
Hi Ron and John,
I am attempting to convert your glazes to single fire glazes and would
like to know if you (or any others on the list) may have any
suggestions for changes that should be made to the stock glazes in
your book, especially the liner glaze, waterfall brown, waxing brown
and verigated blue that will make single fire possible and easier. And if
you recommend leatherhard or bone dry.
I have extruded over 100 bowls for our empty bowls project and
figured that these would make perfect test tiles for experimenting with
taking your glazes single fire (I can never tell enough from a small tile
and hate to experiment on pieces I have spent several days making
and carving).
Thanks for all the information and help you have offered on list over
the years and for the very excellent book.
I got the book in your first deliveries and have found your approach
to glazes very helpfull.
I am, however, still waiting for my seceret decoder ring.
Klyf in New Mexico
John Hesselberth on sat 19 apr 03
On Saturday, April 19, 2003, at 02:34 PM, Klyf Brown wrote:
> I am attempting to convert your glazes to single fire glazes and would
> like to know if you (or any others on the list) may have any
> suggestions for changes that should be made to the stock glazes in
> your book, especially the liner glaze, waterfall brown, waxing brown
> and verigated blue that will make single fire possible and easier. And
> if
> you recommend leatherhard or bone dry.
Hi Klyf,
Uh, secret decoder ring--wasn't Ron supposed to send you one? Ron,
didn't you do that???
With respect to single firing, I have never tried it with our glazes;
however that doesn't mean it wouldn't work. One of the things common
to good single firing glazes is a high clay content. Note that most of
our glazes have that. The zinc base does not, but most of the others
have 17-30% clay. So give them a try as is and let us know what
happens. Try the high calcium semimattes (variegated slate blue is one
of those) first as they have the highest clay content and then test
some of the others. I don't have an opinion on leatherhard vs. bone
dry, but Ron probably does--he hid some of that info in the secret
compartment inside the secret decoder ring.
Have fun and good luck,
John
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Brenda Beeley on mon 21 apr 03
Just came in from my studio after using John and Ron, Pete Pinnell and
other glazes on a bone-dry greenware, incised birdbath on Vashon White
Paper Clay. I generally single-fire with a spray gun but this time I
brushed on the glazes (something I hate to do). I'll let you know how it
turns out.
So far, I have had no problem single firing with a spray gun.
Brenda
****************************
ClaySpace on Puget Sound
Brenda Beeley
P.O. Box 1339
Suquamish, WA 98392-1339
(360) 598-3688
email: mtimes@telebyte.net
http://www.clayspaceonpugetsound.com
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 22:30:24 -0500
From: Tony Ferguson
Subject: Re: Ron and John done singlefire
>On single firing,
>If there is enough clay, it will work.
>Try glazing leather hard and bone dry, the clay and glaze will tell you
>which one will work.
Try dipping and pouring at the above states.
If that does not work
Try spraying--this is pretty much fail safe.
If the glaze powders or flakes or rubs off, + CMC gum until it sticks
each glaze will have its "stick" threshold.
Test test test that is the only way to know.
I want to write a book on single firing
With artists across all temperature ranges and clay bodies
I can not do it alone and it would be arrogant to do so--
so many people with such skill and know how
combined testing = many lives and hours of work.
A place for people to start with things that work for us
and hopefully them too.
Environmentally better and you will accomplish more work in your life time
as an artist.
The work is actully physically stronger (whatever that is worth) as the clay
glaze interface is a stronger knit.
ALL the old pots you see: the porcelains, the stoneware, earthenwares
WERE ALL single fired.
And yes, even those huge porcelain vases of the Chinese, the Etruscan
caskets, etc, etc.
In the course of ceramic history, bisque, is relatively a new thing.
My friend, Ernest Miller, single fires porcelain (and large works) with
crystalline glazes
Amazing, beautiful, not magic, science, art, experiment, find what works.
It can be done.
Single firing requires a committment.
Do not fear, it is more work at first as you will certainly have some loss
And then less work (actually more because you end up making more work)
Anyone who tells you it doesn't work and the loss is "too high it not worth
it"
Does not know what they are talking about.
Thank you.
Tony Ferguson
On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hesselberth"
To:
Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2003 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: Ron and John done singlefire
> On Saturday, April 19, 2003, at 02:34 PM, Klyf Brown wrote:
>
> > I am attempting to convert your glazes to single fire glazes and would
> > like to know if you (or any others on the list) may have any
> > suggestions for changes that should be made to the stock glazes in
> > your book, especially the liner glaze, waterfall brown, waxing brown
> > and verigated blue that will make single fire possible and easier. And
> > if
> > you recommend leatherhard or bone dry.
>
> Hi Klyf,
>
> Uh, secret decoder ring--wasn't Ron supposed to send you one? Ron,
> didn't you do that???
>
> With respect to single firing, I have never tried it with our glazes;
> however that doesn't mean it wouldn't work. One of the things common
> to good single firing glazes is a high clay content. Note that most of
> our glazes have that. The zinc base does not, but most of the others
> have 17-30% clay. So give them a try as is and let us know what
> happens. Try the high calcium semimattes (variegated slate blue is one
> of those) first as they have the highest clay content and then test
> some of the others. I don't have an opinion on leatherhard vs. bone
> dry, but Ron probably does--he hid some of that info in the secret
> compartment inside the secret decoder ring.
>
> Have fun and good luck,
>
> John
>
> http://www.frogpondpottery.com
> http://www.masteringglazes.com
>
>
Ron Roy on mon 21 apr 03
I know nothing about single fire - whenever someone asks me I tell em to
speak to Stephen Hill - I am looking at an article published in CM Jan 86.
All but one of his glazes have about 20% raw clay in them - one has only 13.5%.
He does warn - if dipping - get the outside glaze on as soon a possible
after glazing the inside. He also says spraying on successive layers works
well for him.
As for decoder rings you all have to understand something about John's
post. They come in three styles, 0M, 1M, and 2M - the reference below to
decoder rings is definitely contained in a 2M post.
On the other hand - I do like the idea of a decoder ring - perhaps the
modern equivalent would be a chip implant to help potters get over there
fear of numbers - what an anchor to be dragging around a pottery studio.
What does M stand for - well they come with olives, a twist of lemon and
sometimes with a pickled onion - my particular weakness.
RR
>Hi Klyf,
>
>Uh, secret decoder ring--wasn't Ron supposed to send you one? Ron,
>didn't you do that???
>
>With respect to single firing, I have never tried it with our glazes;
>however that doesn't mean it wouldn't work. One of the things common
>to good single firing glazes is a high clay content. Note that most of
>our glazes have that. The zinc base does not, but most of the others
>have 17-30% clay. So give them a try as is and let us know what
>happens. Try the high calcium semimattes (variegated slate blue is one
>of those) first as they have the highest clay content and then test
>some of the others. I don't have an opinion on leatherhard vs. bone
>dry, but Ron probably does--he hid some of that info in the secret
>compartment inside the secret decoder ring.
>
>Have fun and good luck,
>
>John
>
>http://www.frogpondpottery.com
>http://www.masteringglazes.com
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Ron Roy
RR#4
15084 Little Lake Road
Brighton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 1H0
Phone: 613-475-9544
Fax: 613-475-3513
Kenneth Guill on tue 22 apr 03
I have been raw(green) glazing for awhile. I find that the real trick is to
glaze the insides of forms first and give it time to dry then glaze the out
sides. I usually wait until the clay is dry then glaze in the morning and
fire later in the afternoon. I use a german electric kiln(Velco) firing at
30percent power up to 300C then full power to 1040c with a hour soak. The
only real problems I have run into is with firing plates that were not
completely dry-bottems blow off-same with large bowls. And some problems
with incised rims-the glaze in the undercut lines pop off as the clay cools
down-fixed that by not engraving straight cuts but cuts with a rounded edge.
Kenn the german lurker
Klyf Brown on thu 24 apr 03
Hi Ron,
So far I tried strait up glaze recipes poured on leather hard and bone
dry. Both tests flaked right off when dried. Sprayed on dry has not
flaked. I threw in 1% CMC in the liner glaze dipped and sprayed it
seems to hold ok. The CMC definately makes the glaze harder and
more resistant to rub-off and chipping. The fire will be the true test,
but I have nearly 100 more test bowls to glaze.
I really prefer the spray technique to dip/pour as it is more
controllable and has fewer drips/runs and the waterfall brown can be
applied thin as needed.
I am not sure I can translate to John's 0M, 1M, 2M encoding as I am
on the 1D, 2D, 3D system (D refering to the pain meds I am on for
spinal Super Pain problems) I am usually in the 3D mode these days.
Perhaps if my decoder ring ever comes in I will be able to make the
translations.
I will let you know the results when the fire is done.
Klyf in New Mexico (I think that's where I am, it is a 3.5D day so I
am not entirely sure of my location, but there is a dust storm outside
so I am either in New Mexico or Iraq)
>As for decoder rings you all have to understand something about
John's
>post. They come in three styles, 0M, 1M, and 2M - the reference
below to
>decoder rings is definitely contained in a 2M post.
>On the other hand - I do like the idea of a decoder ring - perhaps
the
>modern equivalent would be a chip implant to help potters get over
there
>fear of numbers - what an anchor to be dragging around a pottery
studio.
>
>What does M stand for - well they come with olives, a twist of
lemon and
>sometimes with a pickled onion - my particular weakness.
>
>RR
>
| |
|
