LindaBlossom on thu 24 apr 03
Ok all, I appreciate the humor and it even occurred to me to use olive oil
on the entire countertop. However, the color is considerably darker and
darn it, the glaze should have been food safe in the sense of being
resistant normal use in the kitchen. I called the tile store where I bought
it and was told that I would need to use a marble poultice to draw the oil
out and then seal the tile. Meanwhile, I am going to write the company. If
a tile, displayed in a countertop setting isn't resistant to cooking oil and
there hasn't been any warning given, then I would expect it to work as
expected.
I do think this adds a new test to the glazes I use. I would be very
embarrassed to have this happen to one of my own counter tops that I have
made for someone. These tiles have a sandy sort of surface under the glaze
and the sand does poke through the glaze. Could the glaze have pulled away
from these little particles, leaving opening to the clay below?
Linda
Ithaca, NY
Cindi Anderson on thu 24 apr 03
In terms of sealing, the building magagainzes say miraclesealants.com has
the best
sealants.
Cindi
Tony Ferguson on thu 24 apr 03
Linda,
Those grog or sand like particles can be sharper than the clay body. As the
work fires, clay does shrinks around sand or grog and can recede with the
glaze following suit--at least this has been my experience with certain clay
bodies and grogs and sands.
If you use a rib, you can physically push these partices deeper into the
clay where it is harder for them to come to the surface. For quick drying,
less or no warpage, I find them necessary to be present in the body.
Kind of like a farmer's field in the spring. Heave ho.
Thank you.
Tony Ferguson
On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806
----- Original Message -----
From: "LindaBlossom"
To:
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 2:31 PM
Subject: oil in the glaze
> Ok all, I appreciate the humor and it even occurred to me to use olive
oil
> on the entire countertop. However, the color is considerably darker and
> darn it, the glaze should have been food safe in the sense of being
> resistant normal use in the kitchen. I called the tile store where I
bought
> it and was told that I would need to use a marble poultice to draw the oil
> out and then seal the tile. Meanwhile, I am going to write the company.
If
> a tile, displayed in a countertop setting isn't resistant to cooking oil
and
> there hasn't been any warning given, then I would expect it to work as
> expected.
>
> I do think this adds a new test to the glazes I use. I would be very
> embarrassed to have this happen to one of my own counter tops that I have
> made for someone. These tiles have a sandy sort of surface under the
glaze
> and the sand does poke through the glaze. Could the glaze have pulled
away
> from these little particles, leaving opening to the clay below?
>
> Linda
> Ithaca, NY
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
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melpots@pclink.com.
>
John Rodgers on thu 24 apr 03
Interesting problem.
I'm sure you know that if the glaze doesn't seal the tile surface on a
low fire tile, liquids will seep through into the porous clay below. The
only real solution is tile fire to the point of vitrification.
Hard for me to imagine tiles being sold for use in kitchens, etc, that
are not fired to vitrification. Surfaces with paint-on sealers are
simply trouble guaranteed.
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
LindaBlossom wrote:
>Ok all, I appreciate the humor and it even occurred to me to use olive oil
>on the entire countertop. However, the color is considerably darker and
>darn it, the glaze should have been food safe in the sense of being
>resistant normal use in the kitchen. I called the tile store where I bought
>it and was told that I would need to use a marble poultice to draw the oil
>out and then seal the tile. Meanwhile, I am going to write the company. If
>a tile, displayed in a countertop setting isn't resistant to cooking oil and
>there hasn't been any warning given, then I would expect it to work as
>expected.
>
>I do think this adds a new test to the glazes I use. I would be very
>embarrassed to have this happen to one of my own counter tops that I have
>made for someone. These tiles have a sandy sort of surface under the glaze
>and the sand does poke through the glaze. Could the glaze have pulled away
>from these little particles, leaving opening to the clay below?
>
>Linda
>Ithaca, NY
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
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