Donald G. Goldsobel on tue 22 apr 03
I just re-read my message and I did not make it clear that ther strip of
wood is just a little shorter than the width of the mirror
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald G. Goldsobel"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: Tiles: hanging
> The best foolproof way to hang a heavy mirror on a standard wall is to
back
> the mirror with plywood; then cut a 5 or 6 inch piece of solid wood, not
> plywood, about 3\8 inch thick. Cut it down the middle at a 45 degree
> angle. These two pieces will fit together as the hanger. Put one piece
> across the back of the mirror higher than the center. The 45 degree angle
> faces down and forms a notch between the mirror and the side that will
touch
> the wall. The other piece is attached to studs in the wall so that when
the
> mirror is lowered to the cleat the two pieces meet as they were before
they
> were cut. Once they are hung like this, the wall has to come down or the
> back of the mirror fall off before the mirror falls. This is how my
mirrors
> have withstood earthquakes here in California.
>
> I hope you can visualize this. It is like two cleats that interlock.
>
> Donald in Earthquakeville
>
>
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Lois on tue 22 apr 03
I've started making tile framed mirrors. I have two
questions:
Does anyone have an elegant idea for a secure way of
hanging these very heavy pieces on the wall. I'm
looking for something that has a professional look and
won't pull the wall down.
Right now, I'm mounting the tiles and mirror onto 5/8
plywood. I could add molding to "frame" the tiles and
cover the edge of the wood but I prefer the look of
just the tiles so I am painting the edge of the wood
the same color of the tiles. Does anyone have a
better solution? Also, has anyone tried this with 1/4
inch plywood on a big mirror (20 inchs by 24 inchs).
Thanks for any advise!
Lois
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Ditmar on tue 22 apr 03
I'm assuming you're using 1/4 inch mirror.
One way is to attach the J shaped metal mirror clips to the bottom edge and
to either side before you do your tiling. If you work it into your layout,
grout will cover the bit of clip you see from the front. Then use wire and
connect the clips to a single hanging point.
For the plywood method you mention, 5/8 seems like overkill. Go thinner and
create a slight overhanging edge with the tiles / mosaics to hide part of
the backing.
Ditmar
> I've started making tile framed mirrors. I have two
> questions:
>
> Does anyone have an elegant idea for a secure way of
> hanging these very heavy pieces on the wall. I'm
> looking for something that has a professional look and
> won't pull the wall down.
>
> Right now, I'm mounting the tiles and mirror onto 5/8
> plywood. I could add molding to "frame" the tiles and
> cover the edge of the wood but I prefer the look of
> just the tiles so I am painting the edge of the wood
> the same color of the tiles. Does anyone have a
> better solution? Also, has anyone tried this with 1/4
> inch plywood on a big mirror (20 inchs by 24 inchs).
>
Hank Murrow on tue 22 apr 03
On Tuesday, April 22, 2003, at 08:57 AM, Lois wrote:
> I've started making tile framed mirrors. I have two
> questions:
>
> Does anyone have an elegant idea for a secure way of
> hanging these very heavy pieces on the wall. I'm
> looking for something that has a professional look and
> won't pull the wall down.
>
> Right now, I'm mounting the tiles and mirror onto 5/8
> plywood. I could add molding to "frame" the tiles and
> cover the edge of the wood but I prefer the look of
> just the tiles so I am painting the edge of the wood
> the same color of the tiles. Does anyone have a
> better solution? Also, has anyone tried this with 1/4
> inch plywood on a big mirror (20 inchs by 24 inchs).
>
Dear Lois;
I have been making very large wall plaques(up to 30" x 30") and hanging
them with Velcro. I cut a piece of high quality plywood, 1/2" thick,
and smaller than the tile, contact cementing 2" wide Velcro strips
around the periphery. I place and contact cement Velcro strips to the
tile in the same position. I mount the plywood on the wall with drywall
screws, or bolts in anchors and just level the tile and push into the
matching Velcro. It takes two men to pull them off of the plywood. I am
not kidding! I have had them hanging in a gallery for a month....but
further long-term tests are needed. I encourage you to try it.
Cheers, Hank in Eugene
Donald G. Goldsobel on tue 22 apr 03
The best foolproof way to hang a heavy mirror on a standard wall is to back
the mirror with plywood; then cut a 5 or 6 inch piece of solid wood, not
plywood, about 3\8 inch thick. Cut it down the middle at a 45 degree
angle. These two pieces will fit together as the hanger. Put one piece
across the back of the mirror higher than the center. The 45 degree angle
faces down and forms a notch between the mirror and the side that will touch
the wall. The other piece is attached to studs in the wall so that when the
mirror is lowered to the cleat the two pieces meet as they were before they
were cut. Once they are hung like this, the wall has to come down or the
back of the mirror fall off before the mirror falls. This is how my mirrors
have withstood earthquakes here in California.
I hope you can visualize this. It is like two cleats that interlock.
Donald in Earthquakeville
J. B. Clauson on wed 23 apr 03
Little points to add: Be sure to anchor the wall piece to at least one stud.
A molly through the plaster board may not hold in an earthquake. Also, when
using epoxy, the longer the curing time, the stronger the bond. (Rule of
thumb courtesy of one of my sculpture teachers.)
Jan C.
Survivor of Loma Prieta and many other earthquakes.
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