David Beumee on thu 29 may 03
Here's one for you to try;
SS1 18B Revied #3, cone 10-11
25 Champion ball clay
25 New Foundry Hill Creme
17 35 mesh Hawthorn Bond
18 50 mesh Hawthorn Bond
10 G-200 feldspar
5 200 mesh silica
Mix the body ingredients together dry before adding water.
You might consider adding extra water for a softer mixture,
then double bagging the clay and allowing it
to age for a few weeks.
David Beumee
Earth Alchemy Pottery
Lafayette, CO
5/29/03 8:36:41 AM, Paul wrote:
>i am building a clay mixer and will soon start making clay for the first
>time, and need to start testing stoneware recipes right away. I have found
>some in books that may work for me but i would like to know if anyone out
>there has a good recipe they could share for cone 10 - 11 body of relatively
>simple constitution and that resists cracks, handles blowing off, etc.
>(Basically i am trying to come up with something similar to Standard
>Ceramics 153 stoneware, which is what i had been using, which fires to a
>grey in reduction and a light tan in oxidation). Also, any tips that can
>make the process run smoothly would be greatly appreciated as well since i
>am new to this. Thanks,
>Paul B
>
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Louis Katz on thu 29 may 03
We use the same recipe with no Goldart and about 5% Redart
100 Hawbond or APG
50 Ball Clay (Om4 or KT 1-4)
15 Custer Spar
5-10 Redart
0-15 Oklahoma Sand
We like this body better when we split the fireclay 50 Greenstripe
Fireclay/50 Mawbond or APGreen.
Sometimes we add Goldart 15 pounds Sometimes we add #6T 10#. Although I
like to keep the body simple as it limits mistakes with my students. I
believe having a large diversity in clays limits s cracks and makes a
better more stable body.
I have also used
APGreen 100
Custer 10
Needs aging and to be mixed wet.
Louis
>
> Subject: Can anyone share their stoneware formula?
Paul on thu 29 may 03
i am building a clay mixer and will soon start making clay for the first
time, and need to start testing stoneware recipes right away. I have found
some in books that may work for me but i would like to know if anyone out
there has a good recipe they could share for cone 10 - 11 body of relatively
simple constitution and that resists cracks, handles blowing off, etc.
(Basically i am trying to come up with something similar to Standard
Ceramics 153 stoneware, which is what i had been using, which fires to a
grey in reduction and a light tan in oxidation). Also, any tips that can
make the process run smoothly would be greatly appreciated as well since i
am new to this. Thanks,
Paul B
Lois Ruben Aronow on thu 29 may 03
Standard sells their clay both mixed and in dry form. You can always
buy 50lb bags of dry 153 until you come up with your own formula, or
if you decide you really like the 153. =20
************
www.loisaronow.com
=46ine Craft Porcelain and Pottery
***************************************
Lois Ruben Aronow
Modern Porcelain and Tableware
http://www.loisaronow.com=20
Craig Dunn Clark on thu 29 may 03
Paul, here's my old formula which I used for many years. Still do sometimes.
It's good for throwing as well as hand-building. Add grog to give it the
"tooth" you may or may not desire. I mixed it up in a soldner pro mixer.
One 100lb bag Hawthorn Bond
One 50lb bag Gold Art
One 50lb bag Old Mine #4 Ball Clay
Roughly 10% Custar Spar
Grog to taste
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul"
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 9:36 AM
Subject: Can anyone share their stoneware formula?
> i am building a clay mixer and will soon start making clay for the first
> time, and need to start testing stoneware recipes right away. I have found
> some in books that may work for me but i would like to know if anyone out
> there has a good recipe they could share for cone 10 - 11 body of
relatively
> simple constitution and that resists cracks, handles blowing off, etc.
> (Basically i am trying to come up with something similar to Standard
> Ceramics 153 stoneware, which is what i had been using, which fires to a
> grey in reduction and a light tan in oxidation). Also, any tips that can
> make the process run smoothly would be greatly appreciated as well since i
> am new to this. Thanks,
> Paul B
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Mondloch on mon 2 jun 03
Hi,
Just a couple questions/comments on the ingredients in this clay body.
> 100 Hawbond or APG
I'd used APGreen for years but began having lots of problems with it- little
stones that had to be screened out and spit-outs even when single fired to
cone 10. My supplier is switching over completely to Hawthorn fireclay. So
far so good on my results, but I'm curious if anyone has had any problems
making this switch over?
> 50 Ball Clay (Om4 or KT 1-4)
This strikes me as alot of ballclay. I didn't like ballclay in my body even
at 10%. sticky-icky to me. I suppose the relatively large percentage of
coarse fireclay to ball clay helps to cut that stickiness?
> 15 Custer Spar
> 5-10 Redart
Do you ever have black coring problems if doing early reduction when adding
this much Redart to a body?
> 0-15 Oklahoma Sand
Assuming that this is a silica sand, do you feel that using the sand instead
of grog affects the expansion of your clay and resulting glaze fit?
welcoming the clay discussion,
Sylvia Mondloch
---
Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
W6725 Hwy 144
Random Lake ,Wi 53075
HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
Louis Katz on mon 2 jun 03
Sylvia Mondloch wrote:
> Hi,
> Just a couple questions/comments on the ingredients in this clay body.
>
>> 100 Hawbond or APG
> I'd used APGreen for years but began having lots of problems with it-
> little
> stones that had to be screened out and spit-outs even when single
> fired to
> cone 10. My supplier is switching over completely to Hawthorn
> fireclay. So
> far so good on my results, but I'm curious if anyone has had any
> problems
> making this switch over?
Last semester we made the switch without incident, but we are still
getting a bit of APG.
>
>> 50 Ball Clay (Om4 or KT 1-4)
> This strikes me as alot of ballclay. I didn't like ballclay in my body
> even
> at 10%. sticky-icky to me. I suppose the relatively large percentage of
> coarse fireclay to ball clay helps to cut that stickiness?
The all fireclay recipes need more aging than we can give them.
>
>> 15 Custer Spar
>> 5-10 Redart
> Do you ever have black coring problems if doing early reduction when
> adding
> this much Redart to a body?
I have had very occasional problems in our soda kiln but never in the
reduction.
>
>> 0-15 Oklahoma Sand
> Assuming that this is a silica sand, do you feel that using the sand
> instead
> of grog affects the expansion of your clay and resulting glaze fit?
Not at this level. The quartz inversion probably of the sand probably
does not effect the overall contraction. If it was finer and more
spread out it might. I have used far more of this sand and not had fit
problems from it. The OK sand that we get is fine clean and round
edged. Its easy to throw with.
Louis
>
> ---
> Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
> Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
> W6725 Hwy 144
> Random Lake ,Wi 53075
> HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
> http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Snail Scott on mon 2 jun 03
At 11:47 AM 6/2/03 -0500, you wrote:
>I'd used APGreen...My supplier is switching over completely to Hawthorn
>fireclay...anyone has had any problems
>making this switch over?
I did it and liked the result. Slightly more
plasticity, I think...a Good Thing, with my
seriously short recipe!
>...5-10 Redart...
>Do you ever have black coring problems if doing early reduction when adding
>this much Redart to a body?
Yes, so I avoid early reduction. (That's with
30% Redart AND single-firing, though.) If you
bisque first, I think it doesn't matter as much,
but that's just my theory.
-Snail
Gail Dapogny on wed 4 jun 03
Here are our (guild) two stoneware recipes both of which include Hawthorne
Bond, 35 mesh. We switched to all Hawthorne when the AP Green was getting
more and more unreliable and had a lot of lime popouts.
I don't think that these are the greatest clay formulas -- frankly they
could use some tinkering, but they are reasonably workable.
When Ron Roy gets back -- he says he's off for a week or so -- ask him for
advice.
Sincerely, Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor
WHITE STONEWARE
>
>Hawthorn 31 140
>Ball (Kentucky OM-4) 14.1 64
>Custer Feldspar 14.1 64
>6-Tile Kaolin 22 100
>Flint (180 mesh) 8.8 40
>Grog (48 mesh) 7.7 35
>Bentonite 2.2 10
>
>TOTAL 99.8 453
>
>REGULAR STONEWARE
>
>Hawthorn Bond 46 204
Goldart (Cedar Hts) 23 100
>Ball Clay 14 60
>Red Art (Cedar Hts) 3.5 16
>Custer 3.5 16
>Grog (48 mesh) 9 40
>Bentonite 1 4
>
>TOTAL 100 440
>
>Sylvia Mondloch wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> Just a couple questions/comments on the ingredients in this clay body.
>>
>>> 100 Hawbond or APG
>> I'd used APGreen for years but began having lots of problems with it-
>> little
>> stones that had to be screened out and spit-outs even when single
>> fired to
>> cone 10. My supplier is switching over completely to Hawthorn
>> fireclay. So
>> far so good on my results, but I'm curious if anyone has had any
>> problems
>> making this switch over?
>> Mark & Sylvia Mondloch
>> Silver Creek Pottery & Forge
>> W6725 Hwy 144
>> Random Lake ,Wi 53075
>> HotArt@silvercreekpottery.com
>> http://www.silvercreekpottery.com
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