Caryn Heffner on sun 1 jun 03
Home Depot to the rescue!
Has anyone tried to use siliconized, acrylic concrete stain on bisque? This
is exterior, water repellant and white - not exactly the Toshiko's White I
was planning on using, but at least it will protect the sculpture from the
elements! Or should I just use acrylic paint? Non-firing glaze? I haven't
used anything but glaze before, so I have no idea what will give the piece
a "professional"-looking surface (I know, very subjective). Help!
Thanks,
Caryn
Snail Scott on sun 1 jun 03
At 11:04 AM 6/1/03 -0400, you wrote:
>I haven't
>used anything but glaze before, so I have no idea what will give the piece
>a "professional"-looking surface...
For non-fired finishes, just as with glaze, TEST FIRST!
Make up some sufficiently large test pieces with similar
textures to your 'real' piece, and try your ideas out
there. Don't just launch into surfacing your big project
without testing. Too many people who are really diligent
about testing their fired finishes seem to regard non-
fired finishes as unworthy of the same attention - just
slappin' it on there!
It's ALL your work, and a kiln-fired finish is NOT the
defining mark of quality. It's not the paint that makes
so many painted ceramic works look crappy, it's the way
they're painted: with a slapdash lack of concern for
the process that the same person might never allow with
their glazed work.
Try several options before applying anything to your
real sculpture.
-Snail
Caryn Heffner on sun 1 jun 03
Thanks for the advice, Snail! I actually did just that while I was waiting
for a response from Clayart and - surprise of surprises - concrete stain
looks a lot like a satin slip! Much of the texture comes through, and it
doesn't look like a thick house-paint. One thing - dipping is definitely
out - pin-holes galore. Brushing with a soft brush or sponge in light
layers gives a nice coverage. Who knew!
Caryn
Rick Monteverde on sun 1 jun 03
I didn't know you could actually fire concrete stains. Any idea how high they can go?
- Rick
>>
>Thanks for the advice, Snail! I actually did just that while I was waiting
>for a response from Clayart and - surprise of surprises - concrete stain
>looks a lot like a satin slip! Much of the texture comes through, and it
>doesn't look like a thick house-paint. One thing - dipping is definitely
>out - pin-holes galore. Brushing with a soft brush or sponge in light
>layers gives a nice coverage. Who knew!
>
>Caryn
Annie Evans on mon 2 jun 03
Having worked in the Paint Department at Home Depot, I can offer this advice:
You will have to recoat the sculpture every couple of years if it's kept
outside. But yes, it's a fine finish.
Snail Scott on mon 2 jun 03
At 01:43 PM 6/1/03 -1000, you wrote:
>I didn't know you could actually fire concrete stains. Any idea how high
they can go?
I don't think anyone was discussing firing them;
the topic was NON-fired surface treatments. Of
course, it doesn't mean it's not possible...
-Snail
george koller on tue 3 jun 03
Guys,
I have tested "brick colorants" from a German Division of Ferro
Corp. They are your basic metals (cobolt yields blue etc) in
a Citrate Solution. And of course they work like the same metal
in any other combination as far as I can see. The colors are really
"plain" but on the other hand they may be "safer" in solution than
in the sulfate form - at least I would guess that but there are folks
on this list that would know at least 100% more than me on this.
I ddon'nt know prices because these were sent to me as samples.
There is a 724-223-5900 tele number on the label and the product
number for one is BK7403 (Pepper flash ceradye). At their site
you will find a lot of info but the company has seemed to be in
continual flux since I've ever tried dealing with them.... good luck.
You can "paint" this stuff into a plain stain, or add it into the base
formula. If it spreads out too much for you are where Kurt Wild
was many years ago, and what I have been working on for several
years with success on recently.
Best,
George
Sturgeon Bay, WI - Door County
Northport, MI
Snail Scott wrote:
> At 01:43 PM 6/1/03 -1000, you wrote:
> >I didn't know you could actually fire concrete stains. Any idea how high
> they can go?
>
> I don't think anyone was discussing firing them;
> the topic was NON-fired surface treatments. Of
> course, it doesn't mean it's not possible...
>
> -Snail
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Caryn Heffner on wed 4 jun 03
Hi Guys,
This is definitely a non-firing option; concrete stain has all kinds of
nasty carcinogens I wouldn't want floating around the kiln or atmosphere.
FYI, the sculpture looks great, it really covers nicely (though the finish
looks more like a light acrylic paint than a wood stain). I think I'll
recommend that the installation change to indoors, since it's raku clay
that was only bisqued, and winters in northern New Jersey are not kind.
Thanks to everyone who responded - as usual, you Clayarters came through
and I learned a bunch!
Pot on!
Caryn
>>I didn't know you could actually fire concrete stains. Any idea how high
>they can go?
>
>
>I don't think anyone was discussing firing them;
>the topic was NON-fired surface treatments. Of
>course, it doesn't mean it's not possible...
>
> -Snail
>
| |
|
