Jan L. Peterson on wed 18 jun 03
There are shed kits you can buy. All the instructions and all the pieces
included. Best way to go, really. Various sizes, and just a nice empty enclosed
space for you to add what you want. jp
Bruce Girrell on wed 18 jun 03
OK, so I decided that we really need to protect the kiln and so let's build
a kiln shed. Checked with local building codes - OK as long as it's under
200 sq. ft. and 10 ft. or more away from the house. I'm able to meet both
conditions so we're good to go.
Drew up the approximate size and shape along with doors and roof. All I'm
building is a metal box. Can't be that difficult, right?
Went to find the pieces to put it all together. I went to the local place
that carries metal building components and they handed me a catalog: "Pick
out what you want and we'll order it". Well, having never built one of these
things before do I need fascia piece ZA1130 or fascia piece XQ1395 or does
the sliding door channel include the mounting hardware or not?. Then I find
out that all this stuff is really only designed to be attached to wood. So I
finally asked the guy, "Am I getting into something over my head?" and,
though he said it in a few more words, his answer was "Yes."
Back to the phone book to locate someone who can build a metal building.
Nobody wants to talk about anything smaller than about 20 ft. by 40 ft. No
money in that small stuff. I start talking all metal construction and they
start talking 14 inch wide flange beams and scissor trusses. No, no, no! I'm
building a friggin' garden shed, not a warehouse.
So now I turn to you wise and compassionate people - Where do I start? Is
this something that I need to hire out? If this were a wood framed structure
I could have had it finished by now, but I've never done an all metal
building. If I do hire it out, where do I look for someone who will build a
_small_ building?
Does it really need to be all metal? A 4 x 4 isn't going to burst into
flames without serious help. And in fires, solid wood beams will retain
their strength much better than steel, but the idea is not to catch fire in
the first place rather than to endure a fire scenario. So it seems to me
that all metal should be the way to go.
I have gone into brainlock over this. I would appreciate any suggestions
from those who have been down this path before. Thanks.
Bruce "yes, I know I used sentence fragments" Girrell
Paul Herman on wed 18 jun 03
Hi Bruce,
Wood is a fine material for a Kiln shed, as long as you don't get it too
close to the Kiln. :o> Both of my Kilns (one gas, one large woodfired)
are in wood structures. Both have chimneys that go through the roof.
All metal sounds like more grief than it's worth, in your case. If it
were me , I would just go ahead with the woodframe option, and cast fear
to the winds.
Good Firings,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
----------
>From: Bruce Girrell
> Then I find
> out that all this stuff is really only designed to be attached to wood. So I
> finally asked the guy, "Am I getting into something over my head?" and,
> though he said it in a few more words, his answer was "Yes."
>
> Back to the phone book to locate someone who can build a metal building.
> Nobody wants to talk about anything smaller than about 20 ft. by 40 ft. No
> money in that small stuff. I start talking all metal construction and they
> start talking 14 inch wide flange beams and scissor trusses. No, no, no! I'm
> building a friggin' garden shed, not a warehouse.
>
> So now I turn to you wise and compassionate people - Where do I start? Is
> this something that I need to hire out? If this were a wood framed structure
> I could have had it finished by now, but I've never done an all metal
> building. If I do hire it out, where do I look for someone who will build a
> _small_ building?
>
> Does it really need to be all metal? A 4 x 4 isn't going to burst into
> flames without serious help. And in fires, solid wood beams will retain
> their strength much better than steel, but the idea is not to catch fire
MarjB on wed 18 jun 03
Bruce - Why not look at the metal garden sheds that are available. They may
need to be mounted on a cement block foundation to get the height you need.
There is a structure at one of my local grocery stores that I have thought
would make a good kiln cover. Tubular,squared, galvanised uprights , maybe
3" on each face, same for the top cross pieces, front and back, with gussets
bolted at the corners and junctions of the uprights and outer cross pieces.
The best feature I think, of this one, is corragated metal is just allowed
to span the outer walls and form a nice arch with no additional trusses,or
cross pieces. I will assume that the uprights are cemented into ground under
the asphalt. It is long enough (2 car lengths) to be surfaced from both
sides and there are cross pieces at buggy height in the middle. The sides,
front and back are open but I would think easily covered as needed. If this
doesn't sound familiar but intriquing, I will take a picture and
measurements if you wish. MarjB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Girrell"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 2:51 PM
Subject: Kiln sheds
> OK, so I decided that we really need to protect the kiln and so let's
build
> a kiln shed. Checked with local building codes - OK as long as it's under
> 200 sq. ft. and 10 ft. or more away from the house. I'm able to meet both
> conditions so we're good to go.
>
> Drew up the approximate size and shape along with doors and roof. All I'm
> building is a metal box. Can't be that difficult, right?
>
> Went to find the pieces to put it all together. I went to the local place
> that carries metal building components and they handed me a catalog: "Pick
> out what you want and we'll order it". Well, having never built one of
these
> things before do I need fascia piece ZA1130 or fascia piece XQ1395 or does
> the sliding door channel include the mounting hardware or not?. Then I
find
> out that all this stuff is really only designed to be attached to wood. So
I
> finally asked the guy, "Am I getting into something over my head?" and,
> though he said it in a few more words, his answer was "Yes."
>
> Back to the phone book to locate someone who can build a metal building.
> Nobody wants to talk about anything smaller than about 20 ft. by 40 ft. No
> money in that small stuff. I start talking all metal construction and they
> start talking 14 inch wide flange beams and scissor trusses. No, no, no!
I'm
> building a friggin' garden shed, not a warehouse.
>
> So now I turn to you wise and compassionate people - Where do I start? Is
> this something that I need to hire out? If this were a wood framed
structure
> I could have had it finished by now, but I've never done an all metal
> building. If I do hire it out, where do I look for someone who will build
a
> _small_ building?
>
> Does it really need to be all metal? A 4 x 4 isn't going to burst into
> flames without serious help. And in fires, solid wood beams will retain
> their strength much better than steel, but the idea is not to catch fire
in
> the first place rather than to endure a fire scenario. So it seems to me
> that all metal should be the way to go.
>
> I have gone into brainlock over this. I would appreciate any suggestions
> from those who have been down this path before. Thanks.
>
> Bruce "yes, I know I used sentence fragments" Girrell
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
Earl Brunner on wed 18 jun 03
I got aluminum siding from a wholesale supply and had to fight them for
it even though I had a general contractor friend that would let me buy
the stuff using his contractor's license. Somehow they thought I was
"cheating". It truly is designed I think as siding to go on top of
something else like wood, but I built my shed frame out of galvanized
steel 2X4 studs and used a drill and pop rivets to attach the panels to
the frame.
The panels are long and about a foot wide and interlock, so I pop
riveted the bottom ones on and then just interlocked the next one row on
and pop riveted it on and so on. There were special corner pieces and
top pieces. My shed is probably less than 10X10. I used regular
galvanized roofing for the roof and hinged the roof at the peak of the
pitch so that I could open half of the roof during firing.
It's not real difficult, but I have done some basic building in the
past. If no body wants to do that small of a job, maybe you could offer
them a fee to help you lay it out and set it up with you doing most of
the labor. Just be careful drilling for the pop rivets if you use them,
I slipped and drilled through my thumb nail. It only bled for a little
while.
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Bruce
Girrell
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 11:51 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Kiln sheds
OK, so I decided that we really need to protect the kiln and so let's
build
a kiln shed. Checked with local building codes - OK as long as it's
under
200 sq. ft. and 10 ft. or more away from the house. I'm able to meet
both
conditions so we're good to go.
Drew up the approximate size and shape along with doors and roof. All
I'm
building is a metal box. Can't be that difficult, right?
Went to find the pieces to put it all together. I went to the local
place
that carries metal building components and they handed me a catalog:
"Pick
out what you want and we'll order it". Well, having never built one of
these
things before do I need fascia piece ZA1130 or fascia piece XQ1395 or
does
the sliding door channel include the mounting hardware or not?. Then I
find
out that all this stuff is really only designed to be attached to wood.
So I
finally asked the guy, "Am I getting into something over my head?" and,
though he said it in a few more words, his answer was "Yes."
dneese on wed 18 jun 03
Hey Bruce,
I have an Olsen 24 updraft. Love it for 15 years now. It is outside between
the studio and garage. I have protected it with a metal roof and supports
built from chain link poles and fittings bolted together. Simple.
Inexpensive. Every thing is bolted or screwed together. No wood. The roof
extends nearly 2 ft all around over the kiln and only if I get a blowing
windy rain does the kiln get a little wet. Now if you are in an area with
heavy snow.....and want to work inside warm and protected, I wouldn't go for
this.
I suspend, on wire over the flue exit at a height of 4 feet an expanded
metal 2 ft X 2ft piece with fiber blanket attached underneath to divert the
heat before it gets to the metal roof. Although the whole roof and poles
sound flimsy I have guide wires on the corner poles for extra support. I do
get some slight wiggle in the wind but not much. I think because of the
flexibility of the structure that it has lasted this long. I put this all
together myself with some great help of the father in-law. If you or anyone
else wants to view the protective cover for my Olsen send me an e-mail OFF
LIST TO: dneese@satx.rr.com and I will sent a digital photo in return.
.
Dale Tex
"across the alley from the Alamo"
Home of the NBA Champions SPURS 2003.
San Antonio, Texas USA
Alexis Yildir on wed 18 jun 03
Ten years ago, we bought and erected an all-metal shed to house the gas
heater and other pool stuff in our back yard. It is about 6-8 feet by 10-12
feet. I do not know if this is big enough for you but it would certainly
hold a kiln (and very little else). We bought the structure at a local
hardware store (Canadian Tire) but I suspect that you can find such things
at all kinds of hardware and even lumber stores. They are time-consuming
(about 4-8 hours depending on your willingness to read the instructions) to
put together but may do the job.
Hope this helps,
Alexis
Paul on wed 18 jun 03
Bruce,
There are metal building studs available from any good construction supply
company that come in a variety of thicknesses. The lower the guage, the
thicker and i believe i used steel between 18-20 guage. Thinner ones are
available for partition walls but be careful not to use them for your
project because they are not weight-supporting. It's really not that
complicated but there are a few things to learn and certain tools that will
make it much easier. The building studs are designed to fit snugly inside
pieces of metal tracking that are anchored into the concrete all along the
base of the building, and also along the top. Self tapping screws shoot
right into it to put them together and if you have a good air compressor
with a 3/8" air drill that is the way to go, otherwise a regular drill
works. For less than half the cost of having someone build it you can have
an excellent set of tools and probably a better building if you take the
time to plan it out and learn.
Corrogated siding can be purchased pre-cut in any color you like along with
flashing, trim, etc. once you find the right place to get it, and it is
easier to frame the whole thing first, bearing in mind the size of the
sheets you will cover it with, and then order the siding. If you want i can
send you pictures of mine, which i built last spring and have found so much
use for that i wouldn't trade it for a wharehouse (and believe it or not i
could but that is a different story!).
Let me know if you have questions.
Paul Borian
Cindy Gatto on wed 18 jun 03
Hi Bruce:
Bruce take it from someone who has spent the last 20 years building
different structures -- from multi million dollar homes to the put up yourself
garden shed from home depot, wood will do you fine. Going with an all metal
building is more hassle than you know. All metal buildings may seem like the way
to go but they do have there drawbacks, from structural integrity to the
bottom edges rotting out they have there problems. In the time it takes you to plan
get and execute an all metal building you would have built and fired your
first and second kiln load in a wooden building. If fire is a concern to you that
much that you would want an all metal building do your self a favor and build
a wood building and cover the area immediately around the kiln with
"wonderboard."
What is wonderboard you say? Wonderboard is nothing more than a cement
type board used in bathrooms under sheet rock. It is a cement backerboard. It
would be perfect to shield your wood structure from the heat of a kiln. You
would build your structure and do the wonderboard and still have a few dollars
left to try a new glaze or something of the like by the time you would finish
your metal building.
Well, that's just my two cents, I hope it helped. Good luck whichever
way your future takes you.
Sincerely,
Mark Petrin
The Mudpit
228 Manhattan Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11206
718-218-9424
mudpitnyc@aol.com
www.mudpitnyc.com
David Hendley on wed 18 jun 03
Long-time Clayart readers might recall that for any query about kiln sheds
I always write to advise that they should be ALL metal, with NO wood.
Another lesson I learned the hard way.
Bruce, however, has me confused, since he is asking about a "shed",
which in my mind does not have walls, and then mentions doors and
fascias.
In Texas, we would not build a kiln inside a building with walls because
it is too darn hot. In a windy location we might put a sheet metal "wall"
on the prevailing wind side.
If you are, indeed, building a "shed", this is a very do-able DIY job
if you have a welder on hand. Just buy some pipe posts, some steel
beams, weld together a frame with a sloped roof, and add roofing tin.
Again, I have no experience with this, but if I wanted a small enclosed
shed, I think I would simply build the roof, same as above, and then
build some walls.
I would build the wall frame out of steel studs such as are used for
commercial buildings. They are silver, rather than primed as is the
structural steel for the roof, are very lightweight, and are joined with
screws and screw-gun drills.
Just fill in the areas between the posts with the steel studs and you
have a wall that can be treated the same as a wood stud-framed wall.
Leave openings for doors and windows and then add a suitable
exterior skin, such as more roofing tin or Hardyboard (cement board).
Add sheetrock for nice finished interior walls, or leave the studs
exposed to save a few bucks.
Remember, enclosed or not, steel's the deal.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
----- Original Message -----
> OK, so I decided that we really need to protect the kiln and so let's
build
> a kiln shed. Checked with local building codes - OK as long as it's under
> 200 sq. ft. and 10 ft. or more away from the house. I'm able to meet both
> conditions so we're good to go.
>
> Drew up the approximate size and shape along with doors and roof. All I'm
> building is a metal box. Can't be that difficult, right?
>
> Went to find the pieces to put it all together. I went to the local place
> that carries metal building components and they handed me a catalog: "Pick
> out what you want and we'll order it". Well, having never built one of
these
> things before do I need fascia piece ZA1130 or fascia piece XQ1395 or does
> the sliding door channel include the mounting hardware or not?. Then I
find
> out that all this stuff is really only designed to be attached to wood. So
I
> finally asked the guy, "Am I getting into something over my head?" and,
> though he said it in a few more words, his answer was "Yes."
>
dalecochoy on wed 18 jun 03
Bruce,
You can buy steel shed kits at many home stores like "Lowes" , "Home Depot"
etc. They are fairly cheap compared to wood for the size. I got a 10' X14"
one and built it on a treated deck platform I built for it with 3' sunken
posts. I then added a combo of Selkirk vent stack and custom made vent cone
to vent it all. The shed could also be set on cement. MANY sizes of kits and
roof heights, although most roofs pretty low until you get to the 10x10ish
sizes. I think my 10x14 listed for about $699 but I got it on sale for like
$399. It DOES take two people to assemble since they are very flimsy in the
construction stages.
Regards,
Dale Cochoy, Wild Things Bonsai Studio, Hartville, Ohio
DaleCochoy@Prodigy.Net http://www.WildThingsBonsai.Com
Specializing in power wood carving tools.
Yakimono no Kokoro bonsai pottery of hand-built stoneware
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Girrell"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 2:51 PM
Subject: Kiln sheds
> OK, so I decided that we really need to protect the kiln and so let's
build
> a kiln shed. Checked with local building codes - OK as long as it's under
> 200 sq. ft. and 10 ft. or more away from the house. I'm able to meet both
> conditions so we're good to go.
>
> Drew up the approximate size and shape along with doors and roof. All I'm
> building is a metal box. Can't be that difficult, right?
>
> Went to find the pieces to put it all together. I went to the local place
> that carries metal building components and they handed me a catalog: "Pick
> out what you want and we'll order it". Well, having never built one of
these
> things before do I need fascia piece ZA1130 or fascia piece XQ1395 or does
> the sliding door channel include the mounting hardware or not?. Then I
find
> out that all this stuff is really only designed to be attached to wood. So
I
> finally asked the guy, "Am I getting into something over my head?" and,
> though he said it in a few more words, his answer was "Yes."
>
> Back to the phone book to locate someone who can build a metal building.
> Nobody wants to talk about anything smaller than about 20 ft. by 40 ft. No
> money in that small stuff. I start talking all metal construction and they
> start talking 14 inch wide flange beams and scissor trusses. No, no, no!
I'm
> building a friggin' garden shed, not a warehouse.
>
> So now I turn to you wise and compassionate people - Where do I start? Is
> this something that I need to hire out? If this were a wood framed
structure
> I could have had it finished by now, but I've never done an all metal
> building. If I do hire it out, where do I look for someone who will build
a
> _small_ building?
>
> Does it really need to be all metal? A 4 x 4 isn't going to burst into
> flames without serious help. And in fires, solid wood beams will retain
> their strength much better than steel, but the idea is not to catch fire
in
> the first place rather than to endure a fire scenario. So it seems to me
> that all metal should be the way to go.
>
> I have gone into brainlock over this. I would appreciate any suggestions
> from those who have been down this path before. Thanks.
>
> Bruce "yes, I know I used sentence fragments" Girrell
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Donald Burroughs on thu 19 jun 03
Bruce I have an idea. Why not try to locate a local garage door installer?
People replace their old doors(metal-get it? non-insulated). Obtain four
doors re-assemble if you have to- there are your walls! Purchase metal
studs if you want to reinforce the walls. Maybe get a fifth door reinforce
that with metal studs = roof. Just an idea if you don't want to spend big
bucks. Otherwise I would recommend a 10x14 shed by Spacemaker. You can
special order these at Home Depot.
Donald Burroughs On the Web @ http://www.autobahn.mb.ca/~donaldo
Debbie Nivens on thu 19 jun 03
Bruce,
I have recently been running around trying to solve
this problem too. The school that I was studying at
recently built a new kiln shed. They basically put up
a pole barn with wood beams on a concrete foundation
with corrugated steel walls and roof. I have been
trying to solve my problems of needing a shed for my
gas kiln. I went to Menards yesterday. They have
computer programs that build small garages. You could
have the clerk build a small garage and remove or add
parts from there. I found that for a 12 x 20
outbuilding, I could get by a whole hell of a lot
easier with a carport kit with side walls. It's all
metal too. Goes up in a day. The carport will cost
just about $300.00 more than all the materials to
build a small outbuilding. I give. I'm getting the
carport kit. Something to think about.
Debbie Nivens in an East Central Illinois cornfield.
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On
> Behalf Of Bruce
> Girrell
> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 11:51 AM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Kiln sheds
>
> OK, so I decided that we really need to protect the
> kiln and so let's
> build
> a kiln shed. Checked with local building codes - OK
> as long as it's
> under
> 200 sq. ft. and 10 ft. or more away from the house.
> I'm able to meet
> both
> conditions so we're good to go.
>
> Drew up the approximate size and shape along with
> doors and roof. All
> I'm
> building is a metal box. Can't be that difficult,
> right?
>
> Went to find the pieces to put it all together. I
> went to the local
> place
> that carries metal building components and they
> handed me a catalog:
> "Pick
> out what you want and we'll order it". Well, having
> never built one of
> these
> things before do I need fascia piece ZA1130 or
> fascia piece XQ1395 or
> does
> the sliding door channel include the mounting
> hardware or not?. Then I
> find
> out that all this stuff is really only designed to
> be attached to wood.
> So I
> finally asked the guy, "Am I getting into something
> over my head?" and,
> though he said it in a few more words, his answer
> was "Yes."
>
>
______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change
> your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
__________________________________
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SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
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george koller on thu 19 jun 03
Hi All,
( Bruce... are you still in Traverse City? ... I'm still up the road
in Northport. Next time over will be on the sailboat!)
I did extensive looking at sheds back 6 months ago to shelter
our new (1972, but never used) updraft kiln. What we did,
and what I think worked well was use a standard aluminum
"utility shed".
Two notes of possible value to folks in this situation:
1. There is a shed factory site for Arrow shed (just google it)
and they have closeouts and seconds for even less sale
prices, as far as I found. Shipping was reasonable. I
think they are in Indiana. The have all kinds of sheds and
options at their site. You get, I think, what you pay for...
so we went with a heavier gauge metal and the thicker
coating. (No connection)
2. We built ours on a "floor" of 4" X 16" by 8" solid cement
blocks laid down on a bed of carefully flattened pea gravel
and a moisture barrier. Then put the shed on 2 courses of
blocks with plenty of block sized vents (4).
The real trick was the hood which we built fixed from four pieces
of angle iron that run each from the shed fraffthe hole
ring to the kiln corners. I guess the rest is common sense but we
did get caught on one arcane rule that says a chimney has to be
2 feet higher than the roofline of any building within 10 foot of
the shed.
It may be a clue to someone that hasn't done this that our inspector
immediately asked for the operating manual for the kiln. So if it
says something like ours did like "no combustiable materials should
be within four feet of the kiln" then this is something that should be
paid attention to.
For me a design goal was to build a shed & foundation that could be
moved .
Hope this helps somebody,
george
sturgeon bay, wi - door county
Andi Bauer on thu 19 jun 03
Hi Bruce,
We've recently been wrestling with the same idea of putting a simple =
metal
shed in our tract home back yard to house a new gas kiln (when we =
finally
decide to take the big step). My daughter works for a local lumberyard =
and
suggested that we look at the catalogue for a company called Tuff Sheds
(www.tuffshed.com ). They have all =
different
sizes and the cost was not too prohibitive. Now we just have to make =
the
decision. whether to get one and make the commitment to staying in San =
Diego
or just wait till we move somewhere else.
=20
Andi in cloudy, gray San Diego.
=20
Bruce Girrell
Subject: Kiln sheds
=20
OK, so I decided that we really need to protect the kiln and so let's =
build
a kiln shed.=20
=20
So now I turn to you wise and compassionate people - Where do I start? =
Is
=20
I have gone into brainlock over this. I would appreciate any suggestions
from those who have been down this path before. Thanks.
=20
=20
=20
Michael McDowell on thu 19 jun 03
On the subject of kiln sheds of metal. I am trying to get a kiln she
and slab approved by our county building and codes people. As this
is rainy country I felt it was necessary to build a cover large
enough to stage loading and unloading under it. Once the structure
exceeds 10 x 12 ft. here they require a permit, and I wanted larger
than that. Plus, the permit people are really cautious in allowing
the installation of a "site-built" kiln, so all metal seemed the
only way to go to calm their fears. The solution I've found is to
purchase an all steel carport kit. The dealer was able to supply me
with engineering specs that respond to the county's criteria for
snow load, wind resistance, etc. and it will cost about $1000 for a
kit that will construct a 12 x 20 free standing awning. Seems
reasonable, all things considered. If anyone is interested, the
dealer in this area is Star Lumber, 7203 112th N. E., Arlington, WA
98223 or phone 360-658-6191. Of course, I have no interest in the
business, just sharing info...
Michael McDowell
Whatcom County, WA
Michael@McDowellPottery.com
http://www.McDowellPottery.com
william schran on fri 20 jun 03
Bruce asked about building metal kiln sheds. Why not purchase a
prefab metal garden shed. They're available in various sizes at home
centers/hardware stores or even can be ordered online and shipped in
pieces.
Bill
Christie Johnson-Lucero on fri 20 jun 03
Walmart carries a metal carport in both single and double sizes. It is =
very easy to add Propanel {corregated metal sheets with a baked -on =
finish} to the sides using self-tapping screws and a power drill. This =
will make you a very sturdy kiln shed. We've got one set up like this.
Christie Lucero
Snowlion Fine Arts
Coyote Creek, NM
David Cowdrill on sat 19 jul 03
Clearly many opinions on this subject. I built an all-metal shed 10 ft. by
14 ft. and am pleased with it. Bought it at Lowe's from Arrow whose
website is:
http://www.sheds.com/arrowindex.htm
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