george koller on thu 19 jun 03
Hi All,
( Bruce... are you still in Traverse City? ... I'm still up the road
in Northport. Next time over will be on the sailboat!)
I did extensive looking at sheds back 6 months ago to shelter
our new (1972, but never used) updraft kiln. What we did,
and what I think worked well was use a standard aluminum
"utility shed".
Two notes of possible value to folks in this situation:
1. There is a shed factory site for Arrow shed (just google it)
and they have closeouts and seconds for even less sale
prices, as far as I found. Shipping was reasonable. I
think they are in Indiana. The have all kinds of sheds and
options at their site. You get, I think, what you pay for...
so we went with a heavier gauge metal and the thicker
coating. (No connection)
2. We built ours on a "floor" of 4" X 16" by 8" solid cement
blocks laid down on a bed of carefully flattened pea gravel
and a moisture barrier. Then put the shed on 2 courses of
blocks with plenty of block sized vents (4).
The real trick was the hood which we built fixed from four pieces
of angle iron that run each from the shed fraffthe hole
ring to the kiln corners. I guess the rest is common sense but we
did get caught on one arcane rule that says a chimney has to be
2 feet higher than the roofline of any building within 10 foot of
the shed.
It may be a clue to someone that hasn't done this that our inspector
immediately asked for the operating manual for the kiln. So if it
says something like ours did like "no combustiable materials should
be within four feet of the kiln" then this is something that should be
paid attention to.
For me a design goal was to build a shed & foundation that could be
moved .
Hope this helps somebody,
george
sturgeon bay, wi - door county
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