pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sun 22 jun 03
Hi Gayle!
I hope I do not sound out-of-character, but the activity you
mention I would think is one as recommends a 'mask' or
breathing-filter to protect you from the silacious dusts of
the diamond-burring process...
For that, I would have worn a mask, or, done it under Water
( with then no mask...)
Best!
Phil
lasvegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "claybair"
To:
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: Glaze on thermocouple
> So, maybe I'm not as stupid as I thought.
> I went ahead used the diamond burr on the thermocouple
too.
> It removed all the glaze and it only took a few minutes.
> It was a relatively thin coating of glaze so wasn't as bad
as I first
> thought.
> Thanks to all for your suggestions.
>
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> http://claybair.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf
Of Roger Korn
> Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 6:49 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Glaze on thermocouple
>
>
> I'd suggest using a diamong burr on the Dremel tool.
Working carefully,
> you should be able to clean it up. Test against a
known-good
> thermocouple, because glaze traces my introduce an error
when they
> re-melt. Some of the more strongly polar molecules could
introduce an
> electrolytic voltage on the order of tens of millivolts -
right on the
> order of magnitudeof the thermal EMFs that the
thermocouple produces.
> Worst case, at least in the case of a Type K thermocouple,
you can grind
> off the welded junction completely and weld a new junction
using an
> oxy-acetylene torch with a 000 tip. This always works well
form me, but
> I haven't tried it on anything except a Type K
thermocouple.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Roger
>
> claybair wrote:
>
> >Well..... I have now had my first glaze firing disaster.
> >
> >I was in a hurry to load & fire the kiln (L & L JD230).
> >The last piece placed was a vase about 1" from the kiln
wall.
> >It was one of the last pieces glazed. It was a thin
walled piece
> >the interior glaze too thick. Looking at this
retrospectively
> >the bisque got saturated and the glaze on the outside
didn't adhere.
> >I ignored the tell tale slight cracking in the glaze. I
saw it and ignored
> >it...
> >Arghhh!
> >
> >Of course it was on a top shelf, it didn't just run off
the pot ... it
> flew!
> >The glaze on the outside just ran off the middle of the
pot and dripped
> >down onto 3 shelves. As if that wasn't bad enough it also
jumped
> >onto the kiln bricks then jumped 2 inches over to the
right to nicely glaze
> >the thermocouple, more kiln bricks and kiln floor!
> >
> >To add insult to injury for some stupid reason I soaked
this firing longer
> >than
> >I usually do which just added to the mess.
> >
> >My question is what would be the best way to remove glaze
from the
> >thermocouple?
> >It is a heavy duty one. It has been suggested to me to
try carefully grind
> >it off using my Dremel.
> >I do have a diamond bit which has nicely removed the
glaze from the shelves
> >and element holders. Any other suggestions?
> >
> >The soft brick on the wall now has a few gouges no deeper
than 1/2" and no
> >wider than 1".
> >Do I have to repair them? I figure I will repair any
gouges on the kiln
> >floor but hopefully the kiln wash there will protect the
brick.
> >
> >Next question......If some glaze is on the element what
should I do?
> >
> >Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >
> >On the bright side only 3 pieces were ruined & most
everything else came
> out
> >great.
> >
> >I should never load kilns when exhausted... seems I said
this a few years
> >ago!!!
> >Was dumb and now dummerer!
> >
> >Gayle Bair
> >Bainbridge Island, WA
> >http://claybair.com
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________
________________
> ___
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Roger Korn
> McKay Creek Ceramics
> In AZ: PO Box 463
> 4215 Culpepper Ranch Rd
> Rimrock, AZ 86335
> 928-567-5699 <-
> In OR: PO Box 436
> 31330 NW Pacific Ave.
> North Plains, OR 97133
> 503-647-5464
>
>
____________________________________________________________
________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________
__________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at melpots@pclink.com.
claybair on mon 23 jun 03
Phil,
Oh yes, I wore my new mask for that
and vacuuming out the kiln!
Gayle Bair
Bainbridge Island, WA
http://claybair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 12:25 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Glaze on thermocouple - 'dremmel dusts'...?
Hi Gayle!
I hope I do not sound out-of-character, but the activity you
mention I would think is one as recommends a 'mask' or
breathing-filter to protect you from the silacious dusts of
the diamond-burring process...
For that, I would have worn a mask, or, done it under Water
( with then no mask...)
Best!
Phil
lasvegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "claybair"
To:
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: Glaze on thermocouple
> So, maybe I'm not as stupid as I thought.
> I went ahead used the diamond burr on the thermocouple
too.
> It removed all the glaze and it only took a few minutes.
> It was a relatively thin coating of glaze so wasn't as bad
as I first
> thought.
> Thanks to all for your suggestions.
>
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> http://claybair.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf
Of Roger Korn
> Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 6:49 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Glaze on thermocouple
>
>
> I'd suggest using a diamong burr on the Dremel tool.
Working carefully,
> you should be able to clean it up. Test against a
known-good
> thermocouple, because glaze traces my introduce an error
when they
> re-melt. Some of the more strongly polar molecules could
introduce an
> electrolytic voltage on the order of tens of millivolts -
right on the
> order of magnitudeof the thermal EMFs that the
thermocouple produces.
> Worst case, at least in the case of a Type K thermocouple,
you can grind
> off the welded junction completely and weld a new junction
using an
> oxy-acetylene torch with a 000 tip. This always works well
form me, but
> I haven't tried it on anything except a Type K
thermocouple.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Roger
>
> claybair wrote:
>
> >Well..... I have now had my first glaze firing disaster.
> >
> >I was in a hurry to load & fire the kiln (L & L JD230).
> >The last piece placed was a vase about 1" from the kiln
wall.
> >It was one of the last pieces glazed. It was a thin
walled piece
> >the interior glaze too thick. Looking at this
retrospectively
> >the bisque got saturated and the glaze on the outside
didn't adhere.
> >I ignored the tell tale slight cracking in the glaze. I
saw it and ignored
> >it...
> >Arghhh!
> >
> >Of course it was on a top shelf, it didn't just run off
the pot ... it
> flew!
> >The glaze on the outside just ran off the middle of the
pot and dripped
> >down onto 3 shelves. As if that wasn't bad enough it also
jumped
> >onto the kiln bricks then jumped 2 inches over to the
right to nicely glaze
> >the thermocouple, more kiln bricks and kiln floor!
> >
> >To add insult to injury for some stupid reason I soaked
this firing longer
> >than
> >I usually do which just added to the mess.
> >
> >My question is what would be the best way to remove glaze
from the
> >thermocouple?
> >It is a heavy duty one. It has been suggested to me to
try carefully grind
> >it off using my Dremel.
> >I do have a diamond bit which has nicely removed the
glaze from the shelves
> >and element holders. Any other suggestions?
> >
> >The soft brick on the wall now has a few gouges no deeper
than 1/2" and no
> >wider than 1".
> >Do I have to repair them? I figure I will repair any
gouges on the kiln
> >floor but hopefully the kiln wash there will protect the
brick.
> >
> >Next question......If some glaze is on the element what
should I do?
> >
> >Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >
> >On the bright side only 3 pieces were ruined & most
everything else came
> out
> >great.
> >
> >I should never load kilns when exhausted... seems I said
this a few years
> >ago!!!
> >Was dumb and now dummerer!
> >
> >Gayle Bair
> >Bainbridge Island, WA
> >http://claybair.com
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________
________________
> ___
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at
> melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Roger Korn
> McKay Creek Ceramics
> In AZ: PO Box 463
> 4215 Culpepper Ranch Rd
> Rimrock, AZ 86335
> 928-567-5699 <-
> In OR: PO Box 436
> 31330 NW Pacific Ave.
> North Plains, OR 97133
> 503-647-5464
>
>
____________________________________________________________
________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________
__________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at melpots@pclink.com.
____________________________________________________________________________
__
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on mon 23 jun 03
ahhhhhhhh...very good...
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "claybair"
To:
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: Glaze on thermocouple - 'dremmel dusts'...?
> Phil,
>
> Oh yes, I wore my new mask for that
> and vacuuming out the kiln!
>
> Gayle Bair
> Bainbridge Island, WA
> http://claybair.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf
Of
> pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 12:25 PM
> To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Subject: Re: Glaze on thermocouple - 'dremmel dusts'...?
>
>
> Hi Gayle!
>
> I hope I do not sound out-of-character, but the activity
you
> mention I would think is one as recommends a 'mask' or
> breathing-filter to protect you from the silacious dusts
of
> the diamond-burring process...
>
> For that, I would have worn a mask, or, done it under
Water
> ( with then no mask...)
>
> Best!
>
> Phil
> lasvegas
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "claybair"
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 8:39 AM
> Subject: Re: Glaze on thermocouple
>
>
> > So, maybe I'm not as stupid as I thought.
> > I went ahead used the diamond burr on the thermocouple
> too.
> > It removed all the glaze and it only took a few minutes.
> > It was a relatively thin coating of glaze so wasn't as
bad
> as I first
> > thought.
> > Thanks to all for your suggestions.
> >
> > Gayle Bair
> > Bainbridge Island, WA
> > http://claybair.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf
> Of Roger Korn
> > Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2003 6:49 PM
> > To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> > Subject: Re: Glaze on thermocouple
> >
> >
> > I'd suggest using a diamong burr on the Dremel tool.
> Working carefully,
> > you should be able to clean it up. Test against a
> known-good
> > thermocouple, because glaze traces my introduce an error
> when they
> > re-melt. Some of the more strongly polar molecules could
> introduce an
> > electrolytic voltage on the order of tens of
millivolts -
> right on the
> > order of magnitudeof the thermal EMFs that the
> thermocouple produces.
> > Worst case, at least in the case of a Type K
thermocouple,
> you can grind
> > off the welded junction completely and weld a new
junction
> using an
> > oxy-acetylene torch with a 000 tip. This always works
well
> form me, but
> > I haven't tried it on anything except a Type K
> thermocouple.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> > Roger
> >
> > claybair wrote:
> >
> > >Well..... I have now had my first glaze firing
disaster.
> > >
> > >I was in a hurry to load & fire the kiln (L & L JD230).
> > >The last piece placed was a vase about 1" from the kiln
> wall.
> > >It was one of the last pieces glazed. It was a thin
> walled piece
> > >the interior glaze too thick. Looking at this
> retrospectively
> > >the bisque got saturated and the glaze on the outside
> didn't adhere.
> > >I ignored the tell tale slight cracking in the glaze. I
> saw it and ignored
> > >it...
> > >Arghhh!
> > >
> > >Of course it was on a top shelf, it didn't just run off
> the pot ... it
> > flew!
> > >The glaze on the outside just ran off the middle of the
> pot and dripped
> > >down onto 3 shelves. As if that wasn't bad enough it
also
> jumped
> > >onto the kiln bricks then jumped 2 inches over to the
> right to nicely glaze
> > >the thermocouple, more kiln bricks and kiln floor!
> > >
> > >To add insult to injury for some stupid reason I soaked
> this firing longer
> > >than
> > >I usually do which just added to the mess.
> > >
> > >My question is what would be the best way to remove
glaze
> from the
> > >thermocouple?
> > >It is a heavy duty one. It has been suggested to me to
> try carefully grind
> > >it off using my Dremel.
> > >I do have a diamond bit which has nicely removed the
> glaze from the shelves
> > >and element holders. Any other suggestions?
> > >
> > >The soft brick on the wall now has a few gouges no
deeper
> than 1/2" and no
> > >wider than 1".
> > >Do I have to repair them? I figure I will repair any
> gouges on the kiln
> > >floor but hopefully the kiln wash there will protect
the
> brick.
> > >
> > >Next question......If some glaze is on the element what
> should I do?
> > >
> > >Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> > >
> > >On the bright side only 3 pieces were ruined & most
> everything else came
> > out
> > >great.
> > >
> > >I should never load kilns when exhausted... seems I
said
> this a few years
> > >ago!!!
> > >Was dumb and now dummerer!
> > >
> > >Gayle Bair
> > >Bainbridge Island, WA
> > >http://claybair.com
> > >
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________
> ________________
> > ___
> > >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> > >
> > >You may look at the archives for the list or change
your
> subscription
> > >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> > >
> > >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
reached
> at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Roger Korn
> > McKay Creek Ceramics
> > In AZ: PO Box 463
> > 4215 Culpepper Ranch Rd
> > Rimrock, AZ 86335
> > 928-567-5699 <-
> > In OR: PO Box 436
> > 31330 NW Pacific Ave.
> > North Plains, OR 97133
> > 503-647-5464
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________
> ________________
> > __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
> at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________
> __________________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
> at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________
________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________
__________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at melpots@pclink.com.
| |
|
