Jennifer F Boyer on sat 21 jun 03
Aw heck, this is worth a try:
I have my L&L apart to replace elements, which I haven't done in
15 years(!) hence the stupidity: chaulk it up to a show in 10
days...
I didn't do the smart thing and take one section apart at the
time. So I forget where the black and green wires from the
switch cable connect to. I know they go to the bolts that hold
the element ends but does it matter whether the black and green
go to the right or left bolt?
Also I'm almost sure the ground wire connects to the lowest
screw that hold on the plate....right??
I'll get all the elements connected and leave the switch wires
alone until I hear from someone.....
Helppp.......Jennifer trying to bisk.....TOMORROW
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery Montpelier VT USA
http://www.thistlehillpottery.com/
Never pass on an email warning without checking out these sites
for web hoaxes and junk:
http://urbanlegends.about.com/
http://snopes.com
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer F Boyer on sun 22 jun 03
Yeah, Thanks, I knew that. After I sent the email I looked at
the colors and saw black, white and green which is the ground. I
managed to get the kiln back together with the new elements but
the kiln is still firing pretty slow, so I'm calling L&L
tomorrow for some tech support.
Jennifer
william schran wrote:
> Jennifer - From your question on Clayart - green is ALWAYS the ground
> wire! Do not attach it to the element! It is to go on the screw/bolt
> on the switch box frame.
> Bill
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery Montpelier VT USA
http://www.thistlehillpottery.com/
Never pass on an email warning without checking out these sites
for web hoaxes and junk:
http://urbanlegends.about.com/
http://snopes.com
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Millie on sun 22 jun 03
I know that this is a bit late for Jennifer, but it might help someone
else. the last time I started to take apart one of my kilns, I
stopped and did a few things. I took a sharpie and labeled all my
terminals 1 thru what ever. then I put a piece of tape on each wire
that said it went from point 1 to point 7(or whatever)and it there was
a color involved. then the final thing was to take my digital camera
and take several pictures of the wiring before I disassembled it. and
a few more along the way while I took stuff off. transfered it all to
my laptop and had really good directions on how to put it back together.
I think that it was the first time that I felt comfortable with what I
was doing.
Millie in Md. where it only drizzled a little bit today.
Tony Olsen on sun 22 jun 03
Jennifer,
here's a page with some pictures. PDF file then go down to page 27 of =
38. Don't know if it will help, but good picture.
http://www.hotkilns.com/parts.pdf
You might also go here:
http://www.hotkilns.com/site-map.html
and click on the one of the wiring diagrams. May not be exactly your =
model, but will give an idea of the standard wiring.
Tony, Galveston
Elizabeth Priddy on sun 22 jun 03
Call the man...
the service guy at L&L is the only person I would let walk me through this.
Jennifer F Boyer wrote:
Aw heck, this is worth a try:
I have my L&L apart to replace elements, which I haven't done in
15 years(!) hence the stupidity: chaulk it up to a show in 10
days
Elizabeth Priddy
www.angelfire.com/nc/clayworkshop
Beaufort, NC
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
william schran on sun 22 jun 03
Jennifer - From your question on Clayart - green is ALWAYS the ground
wire! Do not attach it to the element! It is to go on the screw/bolt
on the switch box frame.
Bill
Bruce on Earthlink on mon 23 jun 03
I guess on this one I have to throw my two cents in. I am a potter but I
also repair kilns. I don't think the Sunset's, "Complete Home Wiring" is a
good reference for working on kilns. It's useful information stops at the ac
outlet plug. A good reference is is " Electric Kiln Construction for
Potters" by Robert Fournier. In this book there is a good description of
the 220/240 three phase wiring used in kilns. Pages 24 and 25 have a good
description of kiln wiring color codes. John Rouges description is fairly
consistent with the one in Folurniers book.
Bruce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Finch"
To:
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: L&L J2927 wiring
> At 09:48 AM 6/23/03 -0500, John Rodgers wrote:
>
> >A 240 Volt circuit will have what the electricians refer to as two legs.
> >There will be two wires, supplying 120 volts each, making up the two
> >legs. The third wire is referred to as a neutral.
>
> No, it is NOT! The third wire in a 3-wire 240 volt circuit is NOT called
a
> 'neutral'--it is a GROUND!
>
> >It is the "return"
> >wire of the the circuit - although that is a bit of a misnomer - because
> >the electricity is alternating current, and that in turns means that the
> >neutral is also an active, "hot" wire in the circuit.
>
> NO! All current in a properly functioning 3-wire 240 volt circuit is
> carried by the two 'hot' wires. And these should be colored black or red
> (they may be painted or taped black, if necessary). That third wire may
be
> bare or covered (or again painted) green. It is a safety ground and
> carries NO current. Its purpose is to provide a path to ground in a fault
> situation. There is NO 'neutral' wire in such a circuit!
>
> A 4-wire circuit is used with modern electric dryers and stoves. It
> provides 240 volts for the heating elements and 120 volts for the lights,
> clocks, and buzzers. The wires here are again black or red for the two
hot
> wires, green or bare for ground, plus white for neutral.
>
> These four are wired to provide:
> 240 volts for heating---the two blacks for heating elements.
> 120 volts for lights, etc.---one black wire and the white neutral
> (both carry current).
>
> >Given the nature
> >of AC power and the nature of the 240 circuitry the third lead or wire -
> >the Neutral - can simply serve both sides simultaneously. In the case of
> >installing the wiring for the circuit from the circuit breaker in the
> >power panel to the kiln plug receptacle, there will typically be two
> >black wires - the "hot" 120V leads, and one White wire - the Neutral.
> >This is the common configuration.
>
> Again, no. That third wire should NOT be white. It is a safety ground
and
> should be bare or green (or painted or taped with green tape).
>
> >In any case, ber cautious. If there is something you don't understand or
> >are not clear on, Don't do anything. Get some more experienced help.
> >
> >As for the stuff above, it all comes from my own experience, and I don't
> >particularly say it is the way for It just works for me. To each his
own.
>
> "To each his own?" That's a bit too cavalier for me, John! As you've
> rightly said, the results of improper wiring may lead to injury or
> death. The whole purpose of the NEC (National Electrical Code) is to
> prevent such consequences. And while I certainly appreciate your concerns
> about dangers and safety for the members of Clayart, your notions about
the
> function and purpose of some of these electrical concepts concerns me!
>
> I recommend book like Sunset's, "Complete Home Wiring" for a
> well-illustrated, easily understood explanation of electricity and
> wiring. Any electrical supply company or Home Depot/Lowes will carry this
> or similar books.
>
> --Carl
> in Medford, Oregon
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
John Rodgers on mon 23 jun 03
Jennifer, I never, never, ever, ever, trust wires. I got electrically
bit really hard once and learned a lesson.
I suggest you get a small multi-meter - they are inexpensive these days
- or a continuity light - but a meter is better - and do a continuity
check from the prongs on the end of the plug to the loose ends that
attach to the bolts. Put a piece of tape on each wire and label it as
you check them. Then you know you have the right ones.
Usually green is ground but don't count on it. Your life is the price
you could pay for making an error. This is not meant to frighten or
create fear, but definitely is intended to create respect and caution
for electricity. If you understand it, and exercise caution, and take
precautions, you will have no problems. Failure to do so is expensive.
But electricity is not difficult.
Typical household electricity at most electrical outlets is 120 volts.
You will see it listed as 110, 115 , 120 Volts. on small appliances,
light fixtures, wall outlets. Amperage is 15 amps. These
outlets/appliances have a hot side, a neutral and a ground.- thus the
three-wire - three prong plug configuration on modern appliances, and in
modern homes. On more powerful outlets and appliances, ones that have
higher voltage and amperage, there are still the three wires, but the
configuration changes. In these cases the voltage is doubled - from 120
volts to 240 volts with amperage being increased as well. As a saftey
these require that one of the blades in the plug/receptacle be turned
horizontal to the rest. This ensures that the plug cannot be put into
the wrong kind of receptacle.
In the case of any 240 volt circuit, including those for kilns. The
circuits are composed of two legs, having 120 Volts each. The
effectiveness is additive - thus the 240 volts. And the amperage is
considerably higher.
Keep in mind that it only takes a small voltage backed by fractional
milliamps to disrupt the electrical signal of the heart, and this is
why there are people accidentally electricuted every year. Imagine what
it must be like to be hit by 60 amps with the pressure of 240 volts
behind it. It will cause extreme contraction of muscles and you cannot
turn loose or get away from it.
A 240 Volt circuit will have what the electricians refer to as two legs.
There will be two wires, supplying 120 volts each, making up the two
legs. The third wire is referred to as a neutral. It is the "return"
wire of the the circuit - although that is a bit of a misnomer - because
the electricity is alternating current, and that in turns means that the
neutral is also an active, "hot" wire in the circuit. Given the nature
of AC power and the nature of the 240 circuitry the third lead or wire -
the Neutral - can simply serve both sides simultaneously. In the case of
installing the wiring for the circuit from the circuit breaker in the
power panel to the kiln plug receptacle, there will typically be two
black wires - the "hot" 120V leads, and one White wire - the Neutral.
This is the common configuration. However - and here is the point of my
mistrust - sometimes these wires ARE NOT two black and one white and
properly connected. The last kiln wiring that I hired installed by an
electrical contractor had two black wires and one HOT PINK wire as the
neutral. In other installations I have seen two black and one green
wire. I have also run across three colors in such circuits. So I
approach these matters with extreme caution. I check the circuits before
I do work, so I know what I am dealing with.
If you have been using your kiln on the same circuit in the past, then
there should be no problem. You just need to get your kiln cable
re-installed, right? So, Get the meter, check the wires from the plug
blades to the end that fits the bolts so you know which is which. A
visual inspection might work as well if you can actually see the where
the wire attaches to the plug blade. The neutral wire in the cable is
typically green, but not necessarily so, it may be white. So make sure
which wire is which. The neutral should be the one attached to the
longest blade on the plug, or the round post on the plug or the odd
blade in the case of a clothes dryer type plug, irrespective of color.
In any case, ber cautious. If there is something you don't understand or
are not clear on, Don't do anything. Get some more experienced help.
As for the stuff above, it all comes from my own experience, and I don't
particularly say it is the way for It just works for me. To each his own.
And by the way, plugs have the blades on them, receptacles are those
things the plug blades fit into. You would be amazed at the number of
people that don't get it!!
Regards
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
Jennifer F Boyer wrote:
> Aw heck, this is worth a try:
> I have my L&L apart to replace elements, which I haven't done in
> 15 years(!) hence the stupidity: chaulk it up to a show in 10
> days...
>
> I didn't do the smart thing and take one section apart at the
> time. So I forget where the black and green wires from the
> switch cable connect to. I know they go to the bolts that hold
> the element ends but does it matter whether the black and green
> go to the right or left bolt?
>
> Also I'm almost sure the ground wire connects to the lowest
> screw that hold on the plate....right??
>
> I'll get all the elements connected and leave the switch wires
> alone until I hear from someone.....
>
>
> Helppp.......Jennifer trying to bisk.....TOMORROW
>
>
>
> --
> ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
> Jennifer Boyer
> Thistle Hill Pottery Montpelier VT USA
> http://www.thistlehillpottery.com/
>
> Never pass on an email warning without checking out these sites
> for web hoaxes and junk:
> http://urbanlegends.about.com/
> http://snopes.com
> ~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Jennifer F Boyer on mon 23 jun 03
You're smart! I also could have done each section one at a time
so the other sections were there to refer to. This is what L&L
suggests in the manual I downloaded off the web site, after the
fact. Call it too many rush orders waiting...my disorganization
was just dumb.I need to change the element on my teeny test kiln
and will use your tips on that one since it doesn't have
sections. Thanks.
Jennifer, living and learning
Millie wrote:
> I know that this is a bit late for Jennifer, but it might help someone
> else. the last time I started to take apart one of my kilns, I
> stopped and did a few things. I took a sharpie and labeled all my
> terminals 1 thru what ever. then I put a piece of tape on each wire
> that said it went from point 1 to point 7(or whatever)and it there was
> a color involved. then the final thing was to take my digital camera
> and take several pictures of the wiring before I disassembled it. and
> a few more along the way while I took stuff off. transfered it all to
> my laptop and had really good directions on how to put it back together.
>
> I think that it was the first time that I felt comfortable with what I
> was doing.
>
> Millie in Md. where it only drizzled a little bit today.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Jennifer Boyer
Thistle Hill Pottery Montpelier VT USA
http://www.thistlehillpottery.com/
Never pass on an email warning without checking out these sites
for web hoaxes and junk:
http://urbanlegends.about.com/
http://snopes.com
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Carl Finch on mon 23 jun 03
At 09:48 AM 6/23/03 -0500, John Rodgers wrote:
>A 240 Volt circuit will have what the electricians refer to as two legs.
>There will be two wires, supplying 120 volts each, making up the two
>legs. The third wire is referred to as a neutral.
No, it is NOT! The third wire in a 3-wire 240 volt circuit is NOT called a
'neutral'--it is a GROUND!
>It is the "return"
>wire of the the circuit - although that is a bit of a misnomer - because
>the electricity is alternating current, and that in turns means that the
>neutral is also an active, "hot" wire in the circuit.
NO! All current in a properly functioning 3-wire 240 volt circuit is
carried by the two 'hot' wires. And these should be colored black or red
(they may be painted or taped black, if necessary). That third wire may be
bare or covered (or again painted) green. It is a safety ground and
carries NO current. Its purpose is to provide a path to ground in a fault
situation. There is NO 'neutral' wire in such a circuit!
A 4-wire circuit is used with modern electric dryers and stoves. It
provides 240 volts for the heating elements and 120 volts for the lights,
clocks, and buzzers. The wires here are again black or red for the two hot
wires, green or bare for ground, plus white for neutral.
These four are wired to provide:
240 volts for heating---the two blacks for heating elements.
120 volts for lights, etc.---one black wire and the white neutral
(both carry current).
>Given the nature
>of AC power and the nature of the 240 circuitry the third lead or wire -
>the Neutral - can simply serve both sides simultaneously. In the case of
>installing the wiring for the circuit from the circuit breaker in the
>power panel to the kiln plug receptacle, there will typically be two
>black wires - the "hot" 120V leads, and one White wire - the Neutral.
>This is the common configuration.
Again, no. That third wire should NOT be white. It is a safety ground and
should be bare or green (or painted or taped with green tape).
>In any case, ber cautious. If there is something you don't understand or
>are not clear on, Don't do anything. Get some more experienced help.
>
>As for the stuff above, it all comes from my own experience, and I don't
>particularly say it is the way for It just works for me. To each his own.
"To each his own?" That's a bit too cavalier for me, John! As you've
rightly said, the results of improper wiring may lead to injury or
death. The whole purpose of the NEC (National Electrical Code) is to
prevent such consequences. And while I certainly appreciate your concerns
about dangers and safety for the members of Clayart, your notions about the
function and purpose of some of these electrical concepts concerns me!
I recommend book like Sunset's, "Complete Home Wiring" for a
well-illustrated, easily understood explanation of electricity and
wiring. Any electrical supply company or Home Depot/Lowes will carry this
or similar books.
--Carl
in Medford, Oregon
Carl Finch on tue 24 jun 03
At 01:36 PM 6/24/03 -0500, Arnold Howard wrote:
>I'm glad to see the recent discussion of the neutral and grounding
>wires. It has been the topic of debate for years even among
>electricians.
Arnold, I'm afraid I don't get it--what is the debate? Is it not true that
grounds (green or bare) are for safety, and that neutrals (white) are for
carrying current? And that for 240 volt power no neutral is needed? But
for 120 volts it is?
If I'm wrong on any of this I'd really appreciate being set straight. I
don't want to end up knocked backwards off my chair onto the floor (or
worse) when futzing with my kiln, as happened to one Clayarter, a few weeks
ago!
>Paragon's earlier A-series kilns, which were last made in 1987, used a
>4-wire system. Paragon's CEO at the time, Frances Darby, often argued
>with electricians who called for information about circuit installation.
>The argument was usually about the neutral and grounding wires.
What was that argument about?
>If you install a used Paragon A-series kiln with 4-wire plug, please be
>sure to use a 4-wire circuit.
What was the purpose of the 4-wire circuit? That is, what was the 4th wire
(neutral) supposed to provide for the kiln?
>A common practice is to connect the
>neutral and grounding wires inside the wall outlet so that the kiln can
>fire on a 3-wire circuit.
If people connected the neutral to ground and the kiln fired OK, then it
seems to me that the 4th wire was superfluous!
>This isn't a safe practice.
Why? [Although, of course, an electrical inspector would frown at a
4-conductor receptacle connected to a 3-wire circuit!]
--Carl
in Medford, Oregon
>Sincerely,
>
>Arnold Howard
>Paragon Industries, L.P.
>www.paragonweb.com
>
>From: Bruce on Earthlink
> > I guess on this one I have to throw my two cents in. I am a potter but
>I
> > also repair kilns. I don't think the Sunset's, "Complete Home Wiring"
>is a
> > good reference for working on kilns. It's useful information stops at
>the ac
> > outlet plug. A good reference is is " Electric Kiln Construction for
> > Potters" by Robert Fournier. In this book there is a good
>description of
> > the 220/240 three phase wiring used in kilns. Pages 24 and 25 have a
>good
> > description of kiln wiring color codes. John Rouges description is
>fairly
> > consistent with the one in Folurniers book.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > From: "Carl Finch"
> > > >A 240 Volt circuit will have what the electricians refer to as two
>legs.
> > > >There will be two wires, supplying 120 volts each, making up the
>two
> > > >legs. The third wire is referred to as a neutral.
> > >
> > > No, it is NOT! The third wire in a 3-wire 240 volt circuit is NOT
>called
> > a
> > > 'neutral'--it is a GROUND!
Arnold Howard on tue 24 jun 03
I'm glad to see the recent discussion of the neutral and grounding
wires. It has been the topic of debate for years even among
electricians.
Paragon's earlier A-series kilns, which were last made in 1987, used a
4-wire system. Paragon's CEO at the time, Frances Darby, often argued
with electricians who called for information about circuit installation.
The argument was usually about the neutral and grounding wires.
If you install a used Paragon A-series kiln with 4-wire plug, please be
sure to use a 4-wire circuit. A common practice is to connect the
neutral and grounding wires inside the wall outlet so that the kiln can
fire on a 3-wire circuit. This isn't a safe practice.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
www.paragonweb.com
From: Bruce on Earthlink
> I guess on this one I have to throw my two cents in. I am a potter but
I
> also repair kilns. I don't think the Sunset's, "Complete Home Wiring"
is a
> good reference for working on kilns. It's useful information stops at
the ac
> outlet plug. A good reference is is " Electric Kiln Construction for
> Potters" by Robert Fournier. In this book there is a good
description of
> the 220/240 three phase wiring used in kilns. Pages 24 and 25 have a
good
> description of kiln wiring color codes. John Rouges description is
fairly
> consistent with the one in Folurniers book.
>
> Bruce
>
> From: "Carl Finch"
> > >A 240 Volt circuit will have what the electricians refer to as two
legs.
> > >There will be two wires, supplying 120 volts each, making up the
two
> > >legs. The third wire is referred to as a neutral.
> >
> > No, it is NOT! The third wire in a 3-wire 240 volt circuit is NOT
called
> a
> > 'neutral'--it is a GROUND!
> >
Bruce on Earthlink on wed 25 jun 03
Carl,
I have a Paragon 25a that uses a four wire system it uses the neutral as a
return wire. It brings into the kiln four wires. One is a safety or gound
wire and is connected to the case of the kiln. The other three lines are
L1,L2 and Neutral. When the kiln is on High the all four elements are
connected thus:
L1^^^^^^^^^ Neutral
L2^^^^^^^^Neutral
L1^^^^^^^^^ Neutral
L2^^^^^^^^Neutral
In this case the Neutral is used as a return. So if you are working on an
older Paragon kiln it may be useful to know this.
Bruce Michaels
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Finch"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 1:31 AM
Subject: Re: L&L J2927 wiring
> At 01:36 PM 6/24/03 -0500, Arnold Howard wrote:
>
> >I'm glad to see the recent discussion of the neutral and grounding
> >wires. It has been the topic of debate for years even among
> >electricians.
>
> Arnold, I'm afraid I don't get it--what is the debate? Is it not true
that
> grounds (green or bare) are for safety, and that neutrals (white) are for
> carrying current? And that for 240 volt power no neutral is needed? But
> for 120 volts it is?
>
> If I'm wrong on any of this I'd really appreciate being set straight. I
> don't want to end up knocked backwards off my chair onto the floor (or
> worse) when futzing with my kiln, as happened to one Clayarter, a few
weeks
> ago!
>
> >Paragon's earlier A-series kilns, which were last made in 1987, used a
> >4-wire system. Paragon's CEO at the time, Frances Darby, often argued
> >with electricians who called for information about circuit installation.
> >The argument was usually about the neutral and grounding wires.
>
> What was that argument about?
>
> >If you install a used Paragon A-series kiln with 4-wire plug, please be
> >sure to use a 4-wire circuit.
>
> What was the purpose of the 4-wire circuit? That is, what was the 4th
wire
> (neutral) supposed to provide for the kiln?
>
> >A common practice is to connect the
> >neutral and grounding wires inside the wall outlet so that the kiln can
> >fire on a 3-wire circuit.
>
> If people connected the neutral to ground and the kiln fired OK, then it
> seems to me that the 4th wire was superfluous!
>
> >This isn't a safe practice.
>
> Why? [Although, of course, an electrical inspector would frown at a
> 4-conductor receptacle connected to a 3-wire circuit!]
>
> --Carl
> in Medford, Oregon
>
>
> >Sincerely,
> >
> >Arnold Howard
> >Paragon Industries, L.P.
> >www.paragonweb.com
> >
> >From: Bruce on Earthlink
> > > I guess on this one I have to throw my two cents in. I am a potter but
> >I
> > > also repair kilns. I don't think the Sunset's, "Complete Home Wiring"
> >is a
> > > good reference for working on kilns. It's useful information stops at
> >the ac
> > > outlet plug. A good reference is is " Electric Kiln Construction for
> > > Potters" by Robert Fournier. In this book there is a good
> >description of
> > > the 220/240 three phase wiring used in kilns. Pages 24 and 25 have a
> >good
> > > description of kiln wiring color codes. John Rouges description is
> >fairly
> > > consistent with the one in Folurniers book.
> > >
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > From: "Carl Finch"
> > > > >A 240 Volt circuit will have what the electricians refer to as two
> >legs.
> > > > >There will be two wires, supplying 120 volts each, making up the
> >two
> > > > >legs. The third wire is referred to as a neutral.
> > > >
> > > > No, it is NOT! The third wire in a 3-wire 240 volt circuit is NOT
> >called
> > > a
> > > > 'neutral'--it is a GROUND!
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Tony Olsen on wed 25 jun 03
Carl,
Suppose for a minute that you have a kiln that has a controller, relays, =
or lights on it that requires 120 vac and the elements 240vac. Where =
would the 120 vac come from? One option is to use one phase and the =
ground as a return leg. This is dangerous because any voltage that =
develops on the resistance of the "ground" wire (E=3DIR) would be felt =
(literally) at the metal parts of the kiln. I think this is the case =
that Howard is talking about. Yes, green or bare are for safety and =
should not be used for a return lead. A kiln of this design would then =
require a 4 wire circuit a true ground (still green) to put the case of =
the kiln at ground potential, and a neutral for a return path to 'the =
box' plus the 2 "hot" leads. 3 wire kilns should be designed so there =
are no 120 vac requirements because no 'neutral is required.
Take care, stay muddy, have fun..
Tony (Galveston)
| |
|
