Nancy and Jerry Jonnum on thu 26 jun 03
In a catalog for workshops in Mendocino, California, there is a listing
for a class about sawdust clay. Unfortunately, I am not able to take
the class, but I sure would like to know more about sawdust clay.
According to the catalog, using sawdust as an ingredient in clay makes
work crack less, warp less and fire thicker. Does anyone on the list
have experience using sawdust in clay? I searched the archives, but
found nothing.
Nancy
Richard Aerni on fri 27 jun 03
On Thu, 26 Jun 2003 22:21:46 -0700, Nancy and Jerry Jonnum
wrote:
but I sure would like to know more about sawdust clay.
>According to the catalog, using sawdust as an ingredient in clay makes
>work crack less, warp less and fire thicker. Does anyone on the list
>have experience using sawdust in clay
Many years ago I used sawdust and woodchips from a nearby woodworker and
added it to my studio-mixed clay. I didn't follow any rules about how much
to add, etc...I would guess at a maximum I added about 50% by volume to the
clay. Sure made it dry easily...no cracking...of course, no plasticity
either! I "threw" it into and above plaster forms, put stain into the
clay, etc...made some very nice pieces, that when fired, came out with a
very antique-ey look. All of the pits and voids from where the sawdust and
wood chips burnt out only added to the look. Though that was back in the
late 70s and early 80s, I still look to those pieces as some of my most
innovative work, and something I'd like to go back to in the future when I
get some time.
A couple of hints I'll pass along...I found it very helpful (and lots less
painful) to throw wearing rubber gloves (a la rubbermaid, from the hardware
store) to lessen the friction, and the splinters, from the wood. Also, I
recall soaking the sawdust and wood chips before adding them to the clay to
prevent the clay from going all dry and cracking before you even had a
chance to work with it.
Good luck,
Richard Aerni
Bloomfield, NY
Leland G. Hall on fri 27 jun 03
Does anyone on the list
have experience using sawdust in clay? I searched the archives, but
found nothing.
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
I was having trouble with cracking due to the thermal shock of raku
fireings, particularly with sculpture and slabs when I first started, so I
experimented with both sawdust and paper clay. It helped alot, though I
had trouble finding sawdust of afine enough nature. Too course and it
affected workability in an adverse manner.
I definitely had less cracking though, both during drying and firing.
The problem for me was that I did not have a clay mixer, so had to slake
clay down to slip, mox in the sawdust, then dry the slip to workable
consistancey. Just too much time involved, considering that there were
manufactured clays out there that would get the job done. I just had to
find them. Also, the book I took the suggestestion from had no reference
to percentages of sawdust, so I had to experiment.
I do remember that slabs and masks were nice and airy, light. Handy to
hang that way too!
Probably not much help. I'd guess others will offer more.
Best wishes
Leland Hall
Before The Wheel Enterprises
Raku Pottery, Sculpture, and "Non Tongs"
Jim Tabor on fri 27 jun 03
Nancy and Jerry Jonnum wrote:
> "I sure would like to know more about sawdust clay.
> According to the catalog, using sawdust as an ingredient in clay makes
> work crack less, warp less and fire thicker. Does anyone on the list
> have experience using sawdust in clay? "
> Nancy
I use a body with sawdust, grog, and vermiculite added to Redart or
Ranger shale but other clays would work if a higher temp is needed. The
coarse materials are added to the point the clay will still bond
together but is very non plastic. Mica in the vermiculite adds sparkle
and the forms are porous. Test small batches to determine what works
best for the work you want to do and don't plan on aging the clay before
using it. Count on smoke from the burning sawdust.
Examples of a sculpture project using sawdust clay are on the site
listed below. Students do quick full figure self portraits modeling the
clay in solid forms combined with a tile representing a drawing board.
On the tile is a white slip and glazed area suggesting a piece of paper
containing their digital photo that has been produced from a ceramic
decal. Images are as real as we can get from an 85 line halftone printed
8-12 up on a screen. They like their double self portraits. I'll add
some remarkable new self portraits in the next few days that are
different than those shown now.
http://www.members.cox.net/taborj/index.html
Jim Tabor
Snail Scott on fri 27 jun 03
At 10:21 PM 6/26/03 -0700, you wrote:
>According to the catalog, using sawdust as an ingredient in clay makes
>work crack less, warp less and fire thicker.
Sawdust and other organic fillers reduce warping
and cracking by being a non-plastic additive. It
permits thicker work by increasing porosity. It
will slow the drying process because it retains
moisture. Fine, powdery sawdust will not visibly
affect texture. In large percentages, the resulting
ash may act as a high-fire body flux.
-Snail
dalecochoy on fri 27 jun 03
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nancy and Jerry Jonnum"
Subject: Sawdust Clay
> In a catalog for workshops in Mendocino, California, there is a listing
> for a class about sawdust clay. Unfortunately, I am not able to take
> the class, but I sure would like to know more about sawdust clay.
> According to the catalog, using sawdust as an ingredient in clay makes
> work crack less, warp less and fire thicker. Does anyone on the list
> have experience using sawdust in clay? I searched the archives, but
> found nothing.
> Nancy
Nancy,
I had that brainstorm a couple years ago :>) I had no problem with mixing
it in by hand or even throwing it. But, where it was a problem for me...it
left pots too porous which is a no-no for bonsai pots and the only solution
was to glaze them inside , which....is also a no-no to bonsai people ( don't
ask! ) so it made them "unsellable". These are probably not concerns of
yours however unless you plan on planting in them. . But, I did use a couple
myself with some small plants with no complaints. And, suprisingly, they
survived a winter which I didn't expect. It musta been the inside glaze.
Although not suitable for my speciality, bonsai pottery, they did have some
nice effects and all fired ok.
Regards,
Dale Cochoy
Wood Jeanne on fri 27 jun 03
Hi Nancy,
The class you mentioned may not include this but Early
Medieval Europe often used sawdust as a temper in
their clay. When the sawdust burned out it left the
ceramic pourous, which helped avoid thermal shock for
cooking over direct heat. This explains a lot of their
pot shapes too.
Cheers,
Jeanne W.
--- Nancy and Jerry Jonnum
wrote:
> In a catalog for workshops in Mendocino, California,
> there is a listing
> for a class about sawdust clay. Unfortunately, I am
> not able to take
> the class, but I sure would like to know more about
> sawdust clay.
> According to the catalog, using sawdust as an
> ingredient in clay makes
> work crack less, warp less and fire thicker. Does
> anyone on the list
> have experience using sawdust in clay? I searched
> the archives, but
> found nothing.
> Nancy
>
>
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Eleanora Eden on wed 20 aug 03
Hi Nancy and all,
I've actually talked quite a bit in the past about using fine wood powder
instead of paper fiber for making a more porous clay. So I'm surprised
there is no trace of all that in the archives. Anyway, for my purposes
which is making tiles, the paper pulp fibers are a downside so I find the
sawdust makes a very suitable body for my needs. I paint the surface with
several coats of slip so I have a smooth surface for decoration. I use the
fine wood powder that accumulates inside the sanders in the woodshop down
the road. Probably using about 30% wood powder by volume.
Eleanora
Nancy wrote:
In a catalog for workshops in Mendocino, California, there is a listing
for a class about sawdust clay. Unfortunately, I am not able to take
the class, but I sure would like to know more about sawdust clay.
According to the catalog, using sawdust as an ingredient in clay makes
work crack less, warp less and fire thicker. Does anyone on the list
have experience using sawdust in clay? I searched the archives, but
found nothing.
Nancy
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill Road eeden@vermontel.net
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 www.eleanoraeden.com
Mitch Kotula on sun 24 aug 03
Potters for Peace uses local earthenware clay mixed
5-/50 with sawdust to provide porous bodies that are
used to build filters for drinking water*.
So experiment with clay/dust combinations depending on
what you are looking for.
*BTW, the filter piece, which fits inside of a 5
gallon clay crock is coated with coloidial silver to
sanitize the water. The clay itself cannot do the
sanitizing alone.
Mitch
=====
Mitch Kotula
Development Plus
PO Box 2076
Hamilton, MT 59840-4076
406-961-5136 (Home)
406-546-6980 (Cell)
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