John Rodgers on mon 30 jun 03
When staining bisque would use of masks or resists - wax or latex be
appropriate and would it work??
Have no experience and just wondering.
John Rodgers
Birmingham, AL
Arnolds Home Improvements wrote:
>What is the best way to put stain on a pot with carvings, so that the stain
>will only be in the carving and not on the rest of the pot. Ideally I would
>like to have stain only in the carved areas and the rest of the pot bare
>clay.
>
>I have been told to apply the stain with a brush to the entire piece and
>then wipe off the stain from the rest of the piece where I don't want
>stain. I tried this but it seems to smear and the clay on the out side of
>the carving has some tinting from the stain.
>
>Also what would be a good ratio of oxides to water to use as my stain? The
>mixture that I have tried is red iron oxide mixed only with water. The color
>is great and how I would like it to look, but I just can't seem to clean all
>of the RIO off the places where stain is not required.
>
>I have been applying the stain to the bisque, I assume this is correct
>rather than applying to green ware?
>
>Gene Arnold
>mudduck@advi.net
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
Arnolds Home Improvements on mon 30 jun 03
What is the best way to put stain on a pot with carvings, so that the stain
will only be in the carving and not on the rest of the pot. Ideally I would
like to have stain only in the carved areas and the rest of the pot bare
clay.
I have been told to apply the stain with a brush to the entire piece and
then wipe off the stain from the rest of the piece where I don't want
stain. I tried this but it seems to smear and the clay on the out side of
the carving has some tinting from the stain.
Also what would be a good ratio of oxides to water to use as my stain? The
mixture that I have tried is red iron oxide mixed only with water. The color
is great and how I would like it to look, but I just can't seem to clean all
of the RIO off the places where stain is not required.
I have been applying the stain to the bisque, I assume this is correct
rather than applying to green ware?
Gene Arnold
mudduck@advi.net
Snail Scott on mon 30 jun 03
At 08:34 PM 6/30/03 -0400, you wrote:
>...I would
>like to have stain only in the carved areas and the rest of the pot bare
>clay...
>I have been applying the stain to the bisque, I assume this is correct
>rather than applying to green ware?
No such thing as 'correct'; just what gets you the result
you want, or not.
Applying stain to bisque will allow you to rub it back very
vigorously without altering the surface. Applying it to
greenware will cause much softening of the texture as you
rub it off, and the effect of the stain will be substantially
muted by being mixed with the smeared clay. Applying it to
stiff leather-hard clay can be nice, as it tends to soak in
less, and the surface is less altered by the wiping than
when the clay is bone-dry. To retain the full detail of any
carving, though, the clay needs to be bisqued.
When applying to bisque (preferred by most people, I think),
dampen the bisque first; the stain won't soak in quite as
deeply and will be easier to remove from the smooth areas.
It's very difficult to remove it entirely, though, unless
your clay is very smooth and dense. It will stay cleaner on
the smooth areas if you only apply the stain directly to the
contours of your carving, though that may take more time
than you wish. You can also apply a resist to the smooth
areas, though this will probably take even longer. (Bisquing
to a higher temperature can reduce absorbency, also.)
In any case, be sure to rinse your sponge very well after
each wipe, to keep from smearing the stain where you don't
want it, and keep the rinse water clean, too. This simple
expedient is very often neglected.
-Snail
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on mon 30 jun 03
Hi Gene,
I had good results useing an old fashioned hand
held-hand-pump 'Bug Sprayer', but certainly any spray method
carefully used would be good...remember to strain or filter
the mixtures...or to do so in deference to the diameter of
the orifice, unless useing a simple blow-pipe venturi
apparatus....where it won't care as much...
Phil
lasvegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arnolds Home Improvements"
> What is the best way to put stain on a pot with carvings,
so that the stain
> will only be in the carving and not on the rest of the
pot. Ideally I would
> like to have stain only in the carved areas and the rest
of the pot bare
> clay.
>
> I have been told to apply the stain with a brush to the
entire piece and
> then wipe off the stain from the rest of the piece where
I don't want
> stain. I tried this but it seems to smear and the clay on
the out side of
> the carving has some tinting from the stain.
>
> Also what would be a good ratio of oxides to water to use
as my stain? The
> mixture that I have tried is red iron oxide mixed only
with water. The color
> is great and how I would like it to look, but I just can't
seem to clean all
> of the RIO off the places where stain is not required.
>
> I have been applying the stain to the bisque, I assume
this is correct
> rather than applying to green ware?
>
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@advi.net
>
>
____________________________________________________________
__________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at melpots@pclink.com.
Ababi on tue 1 jul 03
Hello Arnold
In order to have a clean surface in "the rest of the ware" you must apply and the
clean the greenware. I used to do it with steel wool. It gives you real clean surface.
However you must be very carful because of the " fly clay".
How much water? For one spoon of an oxide 30-50 M"L (CC) water.
Because you want clean areas apply the stain only on and around the curves.
I apply these days only on the bisque and I love the way it mixes with the color of the
glaze. Even a copper stain under an iron yellow looks nice. In this case I add a spoon
of CMC to avoid "Fly stain" when the ware is dry
In the next page there is a wider explanation:
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/912566/owner-78e1.phtml
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910/
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
---------- Original Message ----------
>What is the best way to put stain on a pot with carvings, so that the stain
>will only be in the carving and not on the rest of the pot. Ideally I would
>like to have stain only in the carved areas and the rest of the pot bare
>clay.
>I have been told to apply the stain with a brush to the entire piece and
>then wipe off the stain from the rest of the piece where I don't want
>stain. I tried this but it seems to smear and the clay on the out side of
>the carving has some tinting from the stain.
>Also what would be a good ratio of oxides to water to use as my stain? The
>mixture that I have tried is red iron oxide mixed only with water. The color
>is great and how I would like it to look, but I just can't seem to clean all
>of the RIO off the places where stain is not required.
>I have been applying the stain to the bisque, I assume this is correct
>rather than applying to green ware?
>Gene Arnold
>mudduck@advi.net
Lewis on tue 1 jul 03
In my (very limited) experience, it is impossible to get rid of all the RIO
stain (especially from the carpet!). But the 'weak stain' (even if it does
look as strong as where it has not been wiped) seemed to disappear in the
(transparent) glaze firing; even what I thought was the 'deep' stain was
quite muted.
The message I drew from that is a) I need to apply (or leave) more (Fe-base)
stain than I might think where I want it to show and b) even where stain
shows, if I have wiped it well, it will not show through a transparent
glaze.
I suppose much might depend on the clay body itself (and the sensitivity of
the glaze to Fe (If there is such a thing as 'sensitivity))), but I haven't
yet enough experience to comment.
Lewis
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Arnolds Home
Improvements
Sent: 01 July 2003 01:35
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Staining Pots
I have been told to apply the stain with a brush to the entire piece and
then wipe off the stain from the rest of the piece where I don't want
stain. I tried this but it seems to smear and the clay on the out side of
the carving has some tinting from the stain.
Gail Dapogny on tue 1 jul 03
Gene,
You can put the stain on at either stage -- greenware or bisque. I haven't
ever weighed the amount of iron per water -- just go by the way it looks.
On certain types of carved or textured pots, I apply an iron wash to
bisque.
No matter how careful you are, you're bound to get some iron where you
don't want it.
When I apply it to bisque, I dampen the ware first, then brush the Fe on
rather heavily, not over the entire piece, but not worrying about slopping
over either. Then I sponge the areas where I don't want the iron, rinsing
my sponge constantly . If you still have iron residue that needs to come
off, you can sand it off after everything is dry.
On greenware, it's best not to sponge, but steel wool takes the iron
residue off very well after the piece reaches the bone dry stage; but on
bisque you'll probably have to sand.
Actually when I do this, I like the remaining unglazed body to have a light
coating of iron, so I'm not worried about it except to lightly sand here
and there to make sure it's an even coat.
If you do choose to leave a light iron coating on any of the piece, make
sure your hands are clean and free of any oil or sweat. Otherwise
fingerprints will show up after firing.
---Gail Dapogny
>What is the best way to put stain on a pot with carvings, so that the stain
>will only be in the carving and not on the rest of the pot. Ideally I would
>like to have stain only in the carved areas and the rest of the pot bare
>clay.
>
>I have been told to apply the stain with a brush to the entire piece and
>then wipe off the stain from the rest of the piece where I don't want
>stain. I tried this but it seems to smear and the clay on the out side of
>the carving has some tinting from the stain.
>
>Also what would be a good ratio of oxides to water to use as my stain? The
>mixture that I have tried is red iron oxide mixed only with water. The color
>is great and how I would like it to look, but I just can't seem to clean all
>of the RIO off the places where stain is not required.
>
>I have been applying the stain to the bisque, I assume this is correct
>rather than applying to green ware?
>
>Gene Arnold
>mudduck@advi.net
Gail Dapogny
Ann Arbor, Michigan
gdapogny@umich.edu
http://www.silverhawk.com/ex99/dapogny (single historical photo - no longer
registered with Silverhawk)
Marcia Selsor on tue 1 jul 03
I use a mix of 1/3 EPK to 1/3 frit 3110 and 1/3 mason stains applied
over bisque-fired terra sigilatta. This seems to clean up well. I brush
it on and sponge it off. I have also used this recipe with bernard slip
rather than stain. I was very happy with the results which were soda
fired on terra cotta to ^1.
You might try the RIO in the underglaze stain base above. Maybe that
would clean up better. Red Iron does have a tendency to get into
everything though. I have used a wash of red iron oxide as you described
for bisqued stonewars and thought it did what I wanted on a textured
surface.Maybe use a good natural sponge . They seem to work well for me.
Best wishes,
marcia
Arnolds Home Improvements wrote:
> What is the best way to put stain on a pot with carvings, so that the stain
> will only be in the carving and not on the rest of the pot. Ideally I would
> like to have stain only in the carved areas and the rest of the pot bare
> clay.
>
> I have been told to apply the stain with a brush to the entire piece and
> then wipe off the stain from the rest of the piece where I don't want
> stain. I tried this but it seems to smear and the clay on the out side of
> the carving has some tinting from the stain.
>
> Also what would be a good ratio of oxides to water to use as my stain? The
> mixture that I have tried is red iron oxide mixed only with water. The color
> is great and how I would like it to look, but I just can't seem to clean all
> of the RIO off the places where stain is not required.
>
> I have been applying the stain to the bisque, I assume this is correct
> rather than applying to green ware?
>
> Gene Arnold
> mudduck@advi.net
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
john mertens on tue 1 jul 03
Gene,
Following works for me:
Soft bisque pot-soft depends on clay you are using-cone 08-09 works for me.
Draw or copy design to pot-Spray or brush either acrylic floorwax or brush
clear shellac over the whole thing.
Use dremmel tool with appropriate attachment to carve design out-wear safety
glasses when you do this!!!!!
Clean up dust etc. with damp clean sponge or whatever. Brush or spray your
stain on and if needed enhance with small brush. Let dry up and remove all
stain residue from surrounding area.
Fire to your usual bisque temp-Voila -all done-no mess no fuss.
Regards
Jan Mertens-Colgan-Ontario
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