Ryan Koechel on mon 28 jul 03
Has anyone built the exact kiln plans shown in The Kiln book? Does
anyone have a approximation of how many bricks are in it?
Also, I've gone through the archives and read a bunch on IFB vs.
Hardbrick. (sorry I'm sure this has all been answered...but there are too
many posts to go through) I'm considering building the olsen out of
entirely IFB unless someone makes a good point(besides price) for HB
somewhere in the kiln. I was thinking K-26 for the fire box and in the
entry and exit points of the flame from the kiln, then k-23 everwhere else.
Is there any benefit to double wall construction with IFB?
Is ITC worth putting on if I'm not using salt, anyone have problems
with it falling into there glaze?
How about IFB for kiln posts, Any issues with that?
What other great modifications can be made?...I'm thinking a deeper
ash pit?
Thanks,
Ryan Koechel
David Hendley on tue 29 jul 03
Ryan, I have built 3 Olsen Fastfires.
One was built according to the plans. Two were made 1 1/2 times larger,
with larger fireboxes, flues, and chimneys, and with 9" thick walls,
rather than 4 1/2" thick walls.
All were built with IFBs.
Here are my suggestions:
Use IFBs, not hardbricks for the kiln itself. Use hardbricks for the
fireboxes.
Use 26's where the flames enter the kiln, and 23's everywhere else.
Make the walls 9" thick. A single brick wall is too fragile, besides not
being
enough insulation. If you must use a single wall thickness, be sure to use
some
kind of board insulation on the outside.
The ITC coating is worth the time and expense to install. You only need
one gallon.
IFB's are not suitable for kiln posts. Too fragile.
My greatest modification is to make a shelf that the grates can slide into
the fireboxes on. This allows you to make the grates without legs and to
flip the grates when they start to sag.
Don't stray from the measurements too much. If you change the size
of the kiln, change everything a proportionate amount.
There are some pictures of building the fireboxes of my latest kiln
on my website, at
http://www.farmpots.com/pub.htm
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
----- Original Message -----
> Has anyone built the exact kiln plans shown in The Kiln book? Does
> anyone have a approximation of how many bricks are in it?
> Also, I've gone through the archives and read a bunch on IFB vs.
>
John K Dellow on tue 11 nov 03
I miss my olsen since pulling it down to build a boury . After a couple
of false starts because of chimney cross section size ,
I have fired the bourry successfully .
I found having to cut wood to fit the hobs a pain in the arse :).Also I
found I needed to stoke with small fagots through the secondary air hole.
In fact I found firing the olsen easier . Just shove long lengths of
wood in a fire box and move in as they burn.
I have a question on the olsen .Is there a limit on chamber size ? .I
went for the bourry because I could have
a 40cu.ft. chamber for larger pots.
John
--
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
From the land down under
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
http://digitalfire.com/education/people/dellow/
Paul Herman on tue 11 nov 03
Hello John the flowerpot man,
I have a book on woodfiring by Minogue and Sanderson, and there are
pictures of many different sizes of the Olsen style kiln. Some look at
least 40 cu ft. One thing the larger ones featured is arches over the
fireboxes, instead of kiln shelves.
Lee's design is one of the better ones I think, with both fireboxes on
one side.
I've never fired a Bourre box, but the requirement for a certain sized
fuel looked kind of cumbersome. Some people swear by them though, and
I've heard of adding a bar or two between the hobs. The Anagama I fire
twice yearly will eat up anything you can cram into it's maw, from
sawdust to old stumps.
Good firings,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
----------
>From: John K Dellow
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: Olsen fast fire
>Date: Tue, Nov 11, 2003, 1:03 AM
>
> I miss my olsen since pulling it down to build a boury . After a couple
> of false starts because of chimney cross section size ,
> I have fired the bourry successfully .
> I found having to cut wood to fit the hobs a pain in the arse :).Also I
> found I needed to stoke with small fagots through the secondary air hole.
> In fact I found firing the olsen easier . Just shove long lengths of
> wood in a fire box and move in as they burn.
> I have a question on the olsen .Is there a limit on chamber size ? .I
> went for the bourry because I could have
> a 40cu.ft. chamber for larger pots.
> John
>
> --
>
> John Dellow "the flower pot man"
> From the land down under
David Hendley on tue 11 nov 03
A few years ago, I asked Fred Olsen about variations of the Fastfire design.
I specifically asked if he has seen kilns that did not work because they
strayed too far from the plans.
He said that he has seen scores, if not hundreds, of good performing
variations around the world. I think he mentioned 200 cu. ft. as the
largest one he has seen.
My current Fastfire, my second one built to these dimensions, is
close to 40 cu. ft. ( interior dimensions of 36 X 45 X 54 at the top of
the arch). It fires 100% dead even, top to bottom, side to side,
front to back.
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
----- Original Message -----
> I have a question on the olsen .Is there a limit on chamber size ? .I
> went for the bourry because I could have
> a 40cu.ft. chamber for larger pots.
> John
Jan Goodland Metz on tue 11 nov 03
How tall is your chimney?
Jan
potting in rhode island
David Hendley wrote:
>A few years ago, I asked Fred Olsen about variations of the Fastfire design.
>I specifically asked if he has seen kilns that did not work because they
>strayed too far from the plans.
>
>He said that he has seen scores, if not hundreds, of good performing
>variations around the world. I think he mentioned 200 cu. ft. as the
>largest one he has seen.
>My current Fastfire, my second one built to these dimensions, is
>close to 40 cu. ft. ( interior dimensions of 36 X 45 X 54 at the top of
>the arch). It fires 100% dead even, top to bottom, side to side,
>front to back.
>
>David Hendley
>david@farmpots.com
>http://www.farmpots.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>>I have a question on the olsen .Is there a limit on chamber size ? .I
>>went for the bourry because I could have
>>a 40cu.ft. chamber for larger pots.
>>John
>>
>>
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
David Hendley on tue 11 nov 03
My chimney is about 15 feet tall. You can see it in "Casting a
Chimney", Ceramics Monthly, Feb. 2001.
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
----- Original Message -----
> How tall is your chimney?
>
> Jan
> potting in rhode island
> David Hendley wrote:
>
> >My current Fastfire, my second one built to these dimensions, is
> >close to 40 cu. ft. ( interior dimensions of 36 X 45 X 54 at the top of
> >the arch). It fires 100% dead even, top to bottom, side to side,
> >front to back.
Jan Goodland Metz on wed 12 nov 03
Okay I'll look it up, I asked because I was wondering if you ramp up the
size of the ware chamber should the fire box and chimney enlarge in
proportion. that you could enlarge a design proportionally.
Jan
unloading the pheonix fast fire today.
David Hendley wrote:
>My chimney is about 15 feet tall. You can see it in "Casting a
>Chimney", Ceramics Monthly, Feb. 2001.
>
>David Hendley
>david@farmpots.com
>http://www.farmpots.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>>How tall is your chimney?
>>
>>Jan
>>potting in rhode island
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>David Hendley wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>My current Fastfire, my second one built to these dimensions, is
>>>close to 40 cu. ft. ( interior dimensions of 36 X 45 X 54 at the top of
>>>the arch). It fires 100% dead even, top to bottom, side to side,
>>>front to back.
>>>
>>>
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
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