blooksie's stuff on mon 28 jul 03
In a workshop I took with Bill Daley at Penland several years ago, we used
30 lb. weight tar paper. It works great. We hot glued the forms together,
stuffed it with newspaper, and put on the clay. Patricia
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-----Original Message-----
From: Fredrick Paget
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Monday, July 28, 2003 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: Tar paper forms for slab work
>I took a class from Marcia once and we were using what she calls tar
>paper. I must mention that this paper is not your ordinary thin tar
>paper such as is used under the wood siding of a house. Rather it is
>very heavy - almost one eights inch thick. It is some kind of roll
>roofing.
>Fred
>--
> From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
> fredrick@well.com
>
>___________________________________________________________________________
___
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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Lou Roess on mon 28 jul 03
There was an article in PMI about using Tar Paper Forms for slab work. Does
anyone who uses this technique have further info or tips ? How thin a slab
can be used, and what would be optimum thickness? How careful do you have
to be in peeling off the tar paper.? Can a child do it himself or should
the teacher do that part. ? Any further information would be appreciated.
Meanwhile I'll start experimenting.
Thanks
Lou
Marcia Selsor on mon 28 jul 03
I use this technique for my bird bath columns as well as arch segments.
The thickness depends on the size of the piece and the type of clay
you're using. For tall pieces 27" or 30" I use 1/2-5/8".
I taught a workshop using this technique for smaller raku boxes.
Students made their walls 3/8-1/4" thick.
Hope this helps.
Marcia Selsor
Lou Roess wrote:
> There was an article in PMI about using Tar Paper Forms for slab work. Does
> anyone who uses this technique have further info or tips ? How thin a slab
> can be used, and what would be optimum thickness? How careful do you have
> to be in peeling off the tar paper.? Can a child do it himself or should
> the teacher do that part. ? Any further information would be appreciated.
> Meanwhile I'll start experimenting.
> Thanks
> Lou
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
Fredrick Paget on mon 28 jul 03
I took a class from Marcia once and we were using what she calls tar
paper. I must mention that this paper is not your ordinary thin tar
paper such as is used under the wood siding of a house. Rather it is
very heavy - almost one eights inch thick. It is some kind of roll
roofing.
Fred
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com
Stephani Stephenson on mon 28 jul 03
I recently used roofing tar paper, not the smooth kind, but the stuff
with aggregate, small sharp crushed rocks on one surface,
Bought a roll of it , very economical price.
I was making 3 relief murals, 4 X 4 feet (5 X 5 wet...)...
I made a large sturdy easel and angled it pretty steeply
I wanted to have each whole panel before me, visible, so I could see as
I composed , modeled and carved
Surface was wood, some scavenged white cabinet doors on a wooden frame,
covered it with the tar/aggregate paper.
tacked the paper down with roofing screws that had bright orange
slightly rounded plastic collars around each screw . Orange collars
about the size of a quarter , and raised. You get a whole box of them
cheap, in the roofing section of the hardware store.
I took out the screws and replaced screws with tacks, and tacked down
the paper every 10 inches or so
In my mind I thought the tar paper would provide an OK surface for the
clay to rest on and begin drying on.
mostly I envisioned that it would provide some 'traction' to hold the
mural clay in place on the near- vertical easel.
Thought the gravel should help 'hold the clay, but also give it a
fairly decent drying surface. Often I will put down grog on a horizontal
surface when drying slabs.
The orange nubs around each tack would provide additional 'hold' to
prevent the clay from compacting/compressing /sliding down the easel.
I uses tacks instead of screws so that if the clay grabbed them too much
as it dried,( i.e. if they got imbedded in the back of the slabs) they,
the tacks would pull out of the board easily, rather than tearing up the
clay, and I could remove them from the back of the clay afterwards
.
I rolled out 2 ft wide slabs. joined them together right on the easel
till I had a five by five foot slab, about 1 1/2 inches thick.
Once it was all modeled and set up to near leather hard, but not quite,
I cut the pieces into 10 inch by 12 tiles and removed them.
Since this was the first time I used this type of roofing paper I
wondered how much of a mess the tar would be, if the paper would hold
up and also if the gravel would prove to be problematic.
It was not , and in fact it worked out quite well.
Didn't have any problems at all, thought I replaced the paper after two
murals, I.e. the wetness of the clay does seem to deteriorate the paper
somewhat after a few uses.
Also about half of the crushed aggregate came off with the clay, while
the other half stayed on the tar paper.
Of that which stayed on the clay, I brushed about half of it off easily,
while a bit remained imbedded. It fired OK though, seemed like it is
real rock and not a bad grog, versus something of lime or another
odd chemical composition. seemed to me that the remaining grog was
favorable for even continued drying. Everything dried quite well..
Experiment with the tar paper, whether it is the aggregate or the
smooth. It certainly has possibilities, though it does have kind of a
smell at first and it is kind of dirty, n the roll.
However I found this to be negligible. it was less of a problem than i
thought it would be, and served me well in this application., And it
certainly was an economical solution.
Stephani Stephenson.
steph@alchemiestudio.com
l
psci_kw on tue 29 jul 03
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fredrick Paget"
To:
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2003 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: Tar paper forms for slab work
> I took a class from Marcia once and we were using what she calls tar
> paper. I must mention that this paper is not your ordinary thin tar
> paper such as is used under the wood siding of a house. Rather it is
> very heavy - almost one eights inch thick. It is some kind of roll
> roofing.
> Fred
Fred (and all):
"Tar paper" is better known as "roofing felt" in most parts of the country,
and in the hardware store where you are going to buy yours. Call it tar
paper and they are going to roll their eyes at you and charge full retail.
Felt comes in a few different weights. You can get the 20# (read 20 pound),
which is the thin stuff mentioned above. 30# is the standard for roofing
(under shingles) and 40-60# is the roll roofing. 40# also comes in standard
tar-both-sides, while 60# is only roll roofing
Roll roofing is a horse of a different color, for it has imbedded in one
side that attractive colored clay pebbling that helps it stand up to the
elements and sun. Stiff as all get out. Usually left on a roof for a few
hours in the sun to let it soften before trying to unroll it.
From what I can see in the photos in PMI, she was using 40#.
One caveat: Do not, repeat, DO NOT put this stuff in the microwave or oven
or kiln to get the clay leather hard before removing. Let it sit and harden
naturally, or use a blowdryer/heat gun on the clay side only. Roofing felt
is soaked in , (DUH) TAR... petroleum base, and is very flammable. You can
easily set it afire with a magnifying glass in the sun (please don't ask how
I know this :>)
To complicate matters just a bit, the folks at the hardware store might
offer you a roll of something that looks reddish, kind of a faded cedar
color. This is called "rosin paper" and is used sometimes by builders
underneath siding as well as on roofs. Rosin paper is very thin, and not
what you want, unless you plan on leaving your slabs horizontal to dry. If
that's the case, you might as well use a paper grocery bag and save yourself
the money.
Wayne in Key West
who left a roll of 40# on his metal roof in the FLorida sun for a year, only
to find it still there. Once the outer layer was peeled off, it was good as
new. Tough stuff.
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