Paul Herman on mon 11 aug 03
Hi Gail,
Well, lucky you, Malcolm is a great guy, and fun too!
I use one glaze with his name on it (the one with Redart) and have fired
it right along with the rest of the stuff in the gas kiln. This is a
firing with almost no visible smoke. It works better in some parts of
the kiln, like the top front where the flames hit. More Carbon up there.
How about trying a few pieces scattered around in a 'regular' firing?
There might be an area in the 94 cu ft kiln where it works just right.
Since the wood kiln came around a few years ago, I've put all the shinos
in there and used the gas for the more intense colors. The Shinos seem a
lot nicer in the wood, probably something to do with the slow firing and
four day cooling. I'm working on a method to ensure the Carbon trapping
works, unless too much ash falls on it. Side stoke heavily at 1450 F or
so.
From Doyle, where I am nursing my dog Rufus, who has been bitten by a
rattlesnake. He went to the Vet today and needs injections for the next
three days, which I have in the fridge. Poor guy he's getting a rough
ride. He just got up, took a drink of water and went outside, maybe the
worst is over.
Lusterous shinos to you all,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
----------
>From: "Dapogny.Gail"
> After taking a carbon trap workshop with Malcolm Davis, I am chomping at
> the bit to do a carbon trap firing along the lines of what I learned.
> Since I work in a guild, that is easier said than done. (Our inside kiln is
> 94 cub ft, and, although we fire to cone 10 reduction, we don't have the
> smoke and slower cooling etc. to get any carbon trapping in shinos.We fire
> to accomodate a lot of different glaze types, in other words.
>
> However, we have a small (12 cub feet) gas kiln outside that I fired a
> number of times some years back. It is a sprung arch downdraft kiln (JT
> Abernathy-built) but , like all of JT's kilns, it has a bricked door
> (sigh). I would like to try firing down, and would also like to slow the
> cooling. (No matter how conscientiously you brick and clay-caulk one of
> these doors, it just is not tight.)
>
> I was noticing when looking at websites that Seattle Clay Supply has
> two-inch fiber blanket material that is 48 inches wide -- most places
> seemed to have only 24 in wide. If I bought some of that and enclosed it
> in something like hardware cloth to put across the bricked door sometime
> after I turn off the kiln, do you firing experts think that it would help?
> Any and all advice will be enormously appreciated. I would like to do
> this before Michigan cold weather descends!
> the Seattle website is:
Dapogny.Gail on mon 11 aug 03
After taking a carbon trap workshop with Malcolm Davis, I am chomping at
the bit to do a carbon trap firing along the lines of what I learned.
Since I work in a guild, that is easier said than done. (Our inside kiln is
94 cub ft, and, although we fire to cone 10 reduction, we don't have the
smoke and slower cooling etc. to get any carbon trapping in shinos.We fire
to accomodate a lot of different glaze types, in other words.
However, we have a small (12 cub feet) gas kiln outside that I fired a
number of times some years back. It is a sprung arch downdraft kiln (JT
Abernathy-built) but , like all of JT's kilns, it has a bricked door
(sigh). I would like to try firing down, and would also like to slow the
cooling. (No matter how conscientiously you brick and clay-caulk one of
these doors, it just is not tight.)
I was noticing when looking at websites that Seattle Clay Supply has
two-inch fiber blanket material that is 48 inches wide -- most places
seemed to have only 24 in wide. If I bought some of that and enclosed it
in something like hardware cloth to put across the bricked door sometime
after I turn off the kiln, do you firing experts think that it would help?
Any and all advice will be enormously appreciated. I would like to do
this before Michigan cold weather descends!
the Seattle website is:
http://www.seattlepotterysupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Co
de=31393B
Thanks a bunch.
---Gail
Hank Murrow on mon 11 aug 03
Dear Gail;
While I don't do any carbon trap shino, my shinos develop great color
when reduced beginning around C/012, and going to C/10, followed by an
oxidation soak where it will do the most good, @ 1800F for four to six
hours. The iron crystal growth is maximized in oxidation at that
temperature, and that is where the color is.
So, maybe you don't need the blanket at all if you do the soak.
Cheers, Hank in Eugene
On Monday, August 11, 2003, at 08:56 AM, Dapogny.Gail wrote:
> After taking a carbon trap workshop with Malcolm Davis, I am chomping
> at
> the bit to do a carbon trap firing along the lines of what I learned.
> Since I work in a guild, that is easier said than done. (Our inside
> kiln is
> 94 cub ft, and, although we fire to cone 10 reduction, we don't have
> the
> smoke and slower cooling etc. to get any carbon trapping in shinos.We
> fire
> to accomodate a lot of different glaze types, in other words.
>
> However, we have a small (12 cub feet) gas kiln outside that I fired a
> number of times some years back. It is a sprung arch downdraft kiln
> (JT
> Abernathy-built) but , like all of JT's kilns, it has a bricked door
> (sigh). I would like to try firing down, and would also like to slow
> the
> cooling. (No matter how conscientiously you brick and clay-caulk one
> of
> these doors, it just is not tight.)
>
> I was noticing when looking at websites that Seattle Clay Supply has
> two-inch fiber blanket material that is 48 inches wide -- most places
> seemed to have only 24 in wide. If I bought some of that and
> enclosed it
> in something like hardware cloth to put across the bricked door
> sometime
> after I turn off the kiln, do you firing experts think that it would
> help?
> Any and all advice will be enormously appreciated. I would like to do
> this before Michigan cold weather descends!
Snail Scott on tue 12 aug 03
At 08:38 PM 8/11/03 -0700, you wrote:
>From Doyle, where I am nursing my dog Rufus, who has been bitten by a
>rattlesnake.
Poor Rufus! Hope he pulls through.
-Snail
Dapogny.Gail on wed 13 aug 03
I asked the question recently about getting a fiber blanket and
constructing a shield for the front of one or more of our gas kilns. I
should have explained further that the large "glaze" kiln, which has a
bricked door opening, is situated right next to a large intake fan. When we
bisque-fire the day after glaze firing in yet another kiln on the other
side of it (which happens frequently), it means that the fan is drawing
masses of cool air across the bricked door of the cooling kiln.
We also have a small outdoor gas kiln that I want to try my shino pots in.
(Shinos do okay ---i.e. pretty nice color-- in parts of our large kiln, but
never show evidence of carbon trapping.) Hank has pointed out that firing
down will negate cooling problems, but I'm wondering about a blanket for
times when I don't fire down since it gets windy out there (Michigan, you
know...lakes and wind), and indoors there is that bloody fan.
Anyway, if anyone has experience with using a fiber blanket, I'd appreciate
knowing as much as possible about it, pros and cons.
Thanks again...Gail Dapogny in Ann Arbor
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