Eric Suchman on mon 8 sep 03
When building a hard brick chimney, do I need to build around a flue liner
or will a double wall of hard brick suffice?
Thanks,
Eric in Oceanside
Paul Herman on mon 8 sep 03
Eric,
A double wall of hard brick will suffice.
Good firings,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
----------
>From: Eric Suchman
>To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>Subject: flue liners
>Date: Mon, Sep 8, 2003, 4:59 PM
>
> When building a hard brick chimney, do I need to build around a flue liner
> or will a double wall of hard brick suffice?
> Thanks,
> Eric in Oceanside
Eric Suchman on tue 9 sep 03
So.....Do I need to use a flue liner in with a hardbrick chimney, (10-12'),
or am I OK just using a double course of hard brick? I was even thinking of
using the hard brick for about 4-5' of it and then a metal chimney to
finish it off. What do you all think?
Thanks,
Eric in Oceanside.
wayneinkeywest on tue 9 sep 03
Eric:
Use a clay liner tile. Using only brick as an interior chimney surface
allows a much faster buildup of creosote (assuming wood fuel).
The price of the liner is _much_ cheaper than the cost of a
chimney fire.
Wayne in Key West
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Suchman"
To:
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 7:59 PM
Subject: flue liners
> When building a hard brick chimney, do I need to build around a flue liner
> or will a double wall of hard brick suffice?
> Thanks,
> Eric in Oceanside
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
Marcia Selsor on tue 9 sep 03
I put a flue liner inside some kiln chimneys and they cracked big time.
In previous practises I have used one row of hard brick to above the
height of the kiln and then switched to such things as steel pipe, sewer
pipe (also cracked) and stove pipe. This metal does deteriorate after
time. Its basic job is to channel air. If it is outside use triple wall
pipe to go throught your shed roof.
I have used the ancient Paul Soldner kiln building book as my guide plus
experience from 35 years of kiln building to come to these decisions.
Marcia Selsor
(departing in three days for points east!!!)
Eric Suchman wrote:
> When building a hard brick chimney, do I need to build around a flue liner
> or will a double wall of hard brick suffice?
> Thanks,
> Eric in Oceanside
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
Tuscany 2004
http://home.bresnan.net/~m.selsor/Tuscany2004.html
Marcia Selsor on tue 9 sep 03
I put a flue liner inside some kiln chimneys and they cracked big time.
In previous practises I have used one row of hard brick to above the
height of the kiln and then switched to such things as steel pipe, sewer
pipe (also cracked) and stove pipe. This metal does deteriorate after
time. Its basic job is to channel air. If it is outside use triple wall
pipe to go throught your shed roof.
I have used the ancient Paul Soldner kiln building book as my guide plus
experience from 35 years of kiln building to come to these decisions.
Marcia Selsor
(departing in three days for points east!!!)
--
Tuscany 2004
http://home.bresnan.net/~m.selsor/Tuscany2004.html
Paul Herman on wed 10 sep 03
Hi Eric,
You ask about a chimney:
----------
>From: Eric Suchman
> So.....Do I need to use a flue liner in with a hardbrick chimney, (10-12'),
> or am I OK just using a double course of hard brick?
No, you don't need a flue liner in a hardbrick chimney. Creosote is not
a concern, as the chimney will burn out clean with every firing.
I was even thinking of
> using the hard brick for about 4-5' of it and then a metal chimney to
> finish it off. What do you all think?
> Thanks,
> Eric in Oceanside.
Metal is quick and easy, but if it were me, I'd use all brick. It's a
better material for the job.
Good firing,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
423-725 Scott Road
Doyle, California 96109 US
potter@psln.com
Kenneth D. Westfall on wed 10 sep 03
You can never go wrong with using all hard brick if you have them to
use. If your going to have to spend more money for brick then the metal
chimney is a fine substitute as long as you realize that it will need
replacing long before the fire brick will. Cutting and welding hot water
tanks makes for a great cheep chimney. They are made of a fairly heavy
steel and will last quite long. Just remember that either one, fire bricks
or metal is going to get hot and you need to have some space or heat shield
between combustibles like roof rafters and shingles! 4 to 5 feet of fire
brick then metal would work fine as long as your damper is in that 4 to 5
feet, closer to the flue the better.
At 08:23 PM 09/09/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>So.....Do I need to use a flue liner in with a hardbrick chimney, (10-12'),
>or am I OK just using a double course of hard brick? I was even thinking of
>using the hard brick for about 4-5' of it and then a metal chimney to
>finish it off. What do you all think?
>Thanks,
> Eric in Oceanside.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>melpots@pclink.com.
Kenneth D. Westfall
Pine Hill Pottery
R.D. #2 Box 6AA
Harrisville, WV 26362
kenneth@pinehillpottery.com
http://www.pinehillpottery.com
Louis Katz on wed 10 sep 03
Metal chimneys eventually give out. Usually at the bottom. Inspect them
regularly or add some supports to keep it from doing damage if it wants
to fall.
Louis
On Wednesday, September 10, 2003, at 10:24 AM, Paul Herman wrote:
> Hi Eric,
>
> You ask about a chimney:
>
> ----------
>> From: Eric Suchman
>
>> So.....Do I need to use a flue liner in with a hardbrick chimney,
>> (10-12'),
>> or am I OK just using a double course of hard brick?
>
> No, you don't need a flue liner in a hardbrick chimney. Creosote is not
> a concern, as the chimney will burn out clean with every firing.
>
> I was even thinking of
>> using the hard brick for about 4-5' of it and then a metal chimney to
>> finish it off. What do you all think?
>> Thanks,
>> Eric in Oceanside.
>
> Metal is quick and easy, but if it were me, I'd use all brick. It's a
> better material for the job.
>
> Good firing,
>
> Paul Herman
> Great Basin Pottery
> 423-725 Scott Road
> Doyle, California 96109 US
> potter@psln.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
David Hendley on wed 10 sep 03
----- Original Message -----
> So.....Do I need to use a flue liner in with a hardbrick chimney,
(10-12'),
> or am I OK just using a double course of hard brick?
No, you don't need a flue liner. You don't even need a double course
of hard brick if the chimney is structurally stable (with guy wires), and
the joints between the bricks are well sealed (no air gaps).
I was even thinking of
> using the hard brick for about 4-5' of it and then a metal chimney to
> finish it off.
That will work, too. In that case, I would recommend with a flue liners
for the metal section. It may last a long time, but metal without
any protection will eventually fail.
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
Peter Wakefield Jackson on thu 11 sep 03
I have built many kilns, and I have always used a double course of hard
brick, (9" thick) up to about 6' in height. From there I have used
standard concrete block with red clay flue tile liner for at least the
next 10 feet, and then topped it off with galvanized culvert pipe. I've
found it best to have the height of the masonary end with enough room so
that where the culvert goes throught the shed roof can act to help
stabilize the culvert. Then, it is a good idea to attach at least 3 guy
wires to the culvert and anchor them to the shed framework. This
has worked very well for me. The culvert will eventually rust and
deteriorate, but in my experience, the kiln needs to be replaced before
the culvert does! However, if you have the wherewithal to go the full
height with masonary, that is best in the long run.
All the best,
Peter Wakefield Jackson, President
P. WAKEFIELD & CO., LTD.
Makers of traditional handmade pottery,
including Guy Wolff Garden Pottery
608-423-7060, Voice
608-423-7184, Fax
http://www.pwakefield.com/
On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 20:23:42 -0700, Eric Suchman
wrote:
>So.....Do I need to use a flue liner in with a hardbrick chimney, (10-
12'),
>or am I OK just using a double course of hard brick? I was even thinking
of
>using the hard brick for about 4-5' of it and then a metal chimney to
>finish it off. What do you all think?
>Thanks,
> Eric in Oceanside.
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
____
Richard Aerni on thu 11 sep 03
On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 17:45:13 -0500, David Hendley wrote:
>----- Original Message -----
>> So.....Do I need to use a flue liner in with a hardbrick chimney,
>(10-12'),
>> or am I OK just using a double course of hard brick?
>
>That will work, too. In that case, I would recommend with a flue liners
>for the metal section. It may last a long time, but metal without
>any protection will eventually fail.
>
On my kiln, I used an inner course of hard brick, backed by an outer course
of soft brick, up to the 12' level (through the roof...the total stack
height is 17 feet for a 70 cubic foot kiln). Probably is overbuilding, but
I didn't want any further heat problems in my kiln barn. I topped this off
with a heavy gauge steel chimney that a local fabricator did up for me
cheaply. I really wanted to use high-temperature stainless steel for the
job, but at that time (1987) I was dirt-poor and could only afford regular
steel. The metal fabricator told me it would last for a year or two and
then maybe I'd have the business going to the point where I could afford to
do it right. Well, that was 16 years ago, perhaps 600 cone 10 firings, and
it is still going strong, completely unprotected, in our harsh western New
York climate. In fact, the kiln is going to be decommissioned in the next
couple of months, and the stack will have outlasted a fair amount of the
brick.
Just my own experience,
Richard Aerni
Bloomfield, NY
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