Hendrix, Taylor J on wed 10 sep 03
Howdy all,
I tried a little anvil and paddle today, but that is not
what this is about.
I now face the choice of trying some auto repair on my=20
own and saving a pretty penny or spending all my kiln
money and let Pep Boys do it. I choose the first!
My question to all you self-sufficient potters out there:
How hard is it to change the lower ball joint in an
F150 truck? They need changing. Will I need to borrow
special equipment (I have only oil and spark changing
tools)?
I was also told that changing the plugs in this monster
is a bear. It's a v8 triton(?). True?
I realize this is only a potter-wanna-be life posting
and not strictly clay related, but I want a kiln in
this life time, don'ca know.
Taylor, in Waco
Steve Slatin on thu 11 sep 03
Well, you'll almost certainly need a ball joint press.
you may also need a set of air tools; getting the knuckles
off usually requires more pressure than a human can bring
on their own. You'll need some industrial-grade jackstands,
too.
The process begins as follows:
Jack up truck, insert jackstands, pull jack. The axles have to
Be hanging with the wheels totally 'free.'
Pull hubs
(if you haven't done a brake job on this vehicle, stop here
and quit, as if you don't you'll have a disabled vehicle you
can't either drive safely or completely put back together; it
will be at least a day before you get back to this stage on
re-installation, and you'll forget where everything goes)
Pull brake calipers
Pull rotors
(study the living daylights out of these two steps if you
haven't done it repeatedly before, as the hazards inherent in
messing this up are FAR WORSE than simply having no brakes)
Pull spindles
Pull axle shafts
(have I mentioned this is a great time to replace other worn
parts, like the shafts, if they're at all worn? You may as
well plan on a brake job too; it's too much work not to use
it twice.)
You have now revealed the corroded nuts on the ball joint. With
your air hammer, bash them until they're amenable to coming out
quietly.
Your manuals will show that at this point you can remove the knuckle
easily. This is a lie. Apply various hammering and prying techniques
until the knuckle gives way.
Now you can get to the 'C' clip on the ball joint. Remove it. It's
Also corroded into position, so be ready for a little fight here as
well. By the way, you DO have a second vehicle to go to the NAPA
store for extra parts that break during this process, don't you? The
clips don't always make it.
With the ball joint press and maybe an impact driver, press out the old
ball joints.
Now probably a full day has gone by at this stage, all your knuckles
are bleeding, you're half deaf from the noise of the impact hammer, and
your back is completely messed up from dragging on those wrenches while
under the truck.
Go take a hot bath, and get a good night's sleep. You'll be reversing
the entire process in the morning and reassembling parts of the vehicle
most drives never even see. There are no credits for an installation
that leaves any parts left over, BTW. And those axle shafts rarely
want to go where they belong.
It's one nasty job, overall. That's why they charge the big bucks for
it. If you plan to keep the truck for many years and you can find a
garage that'll give you a warranty on the ball joints that includes
labor
costs, I'd say take it. Mechanics make good money for a reason, and
this
is not a job to be taken lightly. If you're really familiar with
cars and have done major drive train work, that's one thing. If you're
the sort of guy who's handy but usually stops at doing an oil change or
maybe replacing brake pads, this is not a job you want to undertake
alone.
At least get help lined up before you start.
Good luck -- Steve S
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Hendrix,
Taylor J
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 7:04 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: From Peter Pugger to Mr GoodWrench (OT: no clay)
Howdy all,
I tried a little anvil and paddle today, but that is not
what this is about.
I now face the choice of trying some auto repair on my
own and saving a pretty penny or spending all my kiln
money and let Pep Boys do it. I choose the first!
My question to all you self-sufficient potters out there:
How hard is it to change the lower ball joint in an
F150 truck? They need changing. Will I need to borrow
special equipment (I have only oil and spark changing
tools)?
I was also told that changing the plugs in this monster
is a bear. It's a v8 triton(?). True?
Tony Ferguson on thu 11 sep 03
Taylor,
What year is the truck? Ball joints are not hard. Plugs--follow your wires
as see where they are--you may only need an angle adapter for your wrech. I
would recommend getting the "How to" book for your truck at the parts store.
It will show you step by step how to replace your ball joint--don't rebuild
it, buy the whole part which in many cases mean the joint and axel (half of
it) and replace the whole thing. The how to book as saved me a lot of
money.
Thank you.
Tony Ferguson
On Lake Superior, where the sky meets the Lake
Custom & Manufactured Kiln Design
Stoneware, Porcelain, Raku and more
by Coleman, Ferguson, Winchester...
http://www.aquariusartgallery.com
218-727-6339
315 N. Lake Ave
Apt 312
Duluth, MN 55806
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hendrix, Taylor J"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 9:04 PM
Subject: From Peter Pugger to Mr GoodWrench (OT: no clay)
> Howdy all,
>
> I tried a little anvil and paddle today, but that is not
> what this is about.
>
> I now face the choice of trying some auto repair on my
> own and saving a pretty penny or spending all my kiln
> money and let Pep Boys do it. I choose the first!
>
> My question to all you self-sufficient potters out there:
> How hard is it to change the lower ball joint in an
> F150 truck? They need changing. Will I need to borrow
> special equipment (I have only oil and spark changing
> tools)?
>
> I was also told that changing the plugs in this monster
> is a bear. It's a v8 triton(?). True?
>
> I realize this is only a potter-wanna-be life posting
> and not strictly clay related, but I want a kiln in
> this life time, don'ca know.
>
> Taylor, in Waco
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
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> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Mayssan Shora Farra on thu 11 sep 03
On Thu, 11 Sep 2003 00:46:18 -0700, Steve Slatin
wrote:
study the living daylights out of these two steps if you
>haven't done it repeatedly before, as the hazards inherent in
>messing this up are FAR WORSE than simply having no brakes).
>
>Now probably a full day has gone by at this stage, all your knuckles
>are bleeding, you're half deaf from the noise of the impact hammer, and
>your back is completely messed up from dragging on those wrenches while
>under the truck.
> If you're really familiar with
>cars and have done major drive train work, that's one thing. If you're
>the sort of guy who's handy but usually stops at doing an oil change or
>maybe replacing brake pads, this is not a job you want to undertake
>alone.
Hey Taylor;
After reading this post , I think it is easier and cheaper to build your
own kiln than do this job ;)
Good luck anyway
Mayssan Shora Farra
Burness Speakman on fri 12 sep 03
Check with your local High School District and see if they have a Vocational
School Auto mechanic course. They (the kids at the school) could do it for
very cheap, ah I mean cost effective. Ball joints should fall within their
"to do's".
Bunny
Mitch Kotula on fri 12 sep 03
Taylor,
Go to your local NAPA or Pep Boys auto parts shop.
Tell them what you want to do and buy the parts from
them. Ask them how to do it. They will tell you and
you might ask if you need any special tools...they
will tell you.
Ball joints are no big deal. Old off, new on. There
is a grease fitting that needs grease, so if it does
not come greased you might need to take it somewhere
or buy a cheap grease gun and, yes, grease it yourself
(let's stay literal here)!
Plugs should not be a problem, but why change them?
Now-a-days plugs last for 100K miles. If they do need
to change, most likely you will need an "extension"
for your socket/ratchet.
Ask the auto parts guys. They love to tell you and
they know what is going on. They also will tell you,
while rolling their eyes and laughing amongst
themselves, if the job is a bear and a novice should
not be fooling around. In that case, ask who do they
trust who would do a good job at a reasonable rate and
bite the bullet.
Maybe throwing pots for that day would more than pay
for the repair.
Good luck.
Mitch
=====
Mitch Kotula
Development Plus
PO Box 2076
Hamilton, MT 59840-4076
406-961-5136 (Home)
406-546-6980 (Cell)
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