Donna Hoff-Grambau on thu 18 sep 03
I have the opportunity to convert my garage (two car with loft) into a
studio.
What is the best flooring to use? The floor is concrete now and has
some stains from oil and other things - I have no idea what they are.
Donna Hoff-Grambau
Two Rivers Paper & Pottery
Paul Vernier on thu 18 sep 03
Donna,
I have researched this a little and found this company to have a coating that would work quite well. And it comes in colors. How about a nice Celadon?
Take a look at: http://www.concrete-floor-coatings.com/
Paul
Santa Cruz, CA
"I tried relaxing, but -- I don't know, I feel more comfortable tense."
>-Hamilton cartoon caption
Charles Moore on thu 18 sep 03
Hi, Donna,
You said: " I have the opportunity to convert my garage... into a studio.
What is the best flooring to use? The floor is concrete now and has
some stains from oil and other things- I have no idea what they are."
Donna Hoff-Grambau
> Two Rivers Paper & Pottery
Donna,
I am in exactly the same situation at this moment. After considering
various concrete sealants, I believe that I will use linoleum instead. In
my work area, which bears the heaviest traffic and clay infestation, I plan
to duct tape a second layer of the same linoleum.
To experiment, I recently laid down a sizable piece of linoleum under my
wheel, wedging table, and sink; I attached it to the floor with duct tape.
It has been much easier to clean than the relatively smooth concrete of the
old garage floor. And linoleum hides the defects (slight cracks), spills,
etc. that have accumulated over the years.
Like you, I will be interested in Clayart responses on this topic.
Charles Moore
Sacramento
Jonathan Kirkendall on thu 18 sep 03
Donna,
I used a sealant on my concrete floor from Bioshield, a company that
produces "earth friendly" alternatives. I called and told them the
condition of the floor and they told me what product would work. I was very
happy with the result, mostly because I'm allergic to the fumes of most
commercial sealants, and this product had NONE, but also because after I was
finished the surface of the floor looked like the surface that I dream about
getting on my pit fired pottery!!!
They are at least worth checking out. They're website is
http://www.bioshieldpaint.com, and I have no connection to them as a company
except for being a satisfied customer.
Jonathan in DC
where the rain has started and the wind is kicking up
On 9/18/03 7:08 AM, "Donna Hoff-Grambau" wrote:
> I have the opportunity to convert my garage (two car with loft) into a
> studio.
>
> What is the best flooring to use? The floor is concrete now and has
> some stains from oil and other things - I have no idea what they are.
>
> Donna Hoff-Grambau
> Two Rivers Paper & Pottery
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on thu 18 sep 03
Hi Charles, and all...
Ohhhhh....so far as I know, and I hope I am mistaken! - one
my not anylonger buy ( new) 'Linoleum' except in a
figurative sense.
One obtains 'vinyl' or something else as is not Linoleum.
Too bad too, as Linoleum was a wonderful material...and at
one time came in a great variety of weight, colors and
patterns and sizes.
One could get Linoleum 'rugs' and runners as had faux
'Persian' or Art Moderne or other patterns for use in the
Kitchen or Hallways or foyers or whatever...and it wore very
well too...in it's early days of domestic use, it was almost
never used 'wall to wall' but was used about as a Carpet
would be.
Gone now, along with 'Oil Cloth' and 'Leatherette' and so
much useful and honest of else...
I understand however that ( some version of ) it is still
made in some part of the former Soviet Union, and I had
obtained some second-hand samples the size of Postage
Stamps...the colors are disappointing unfortunately, and the
only weights are a mite 'thin'...
...sigh...
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Moore"
> Hi, Donna,
>
> You said: " I have the opportunity to convert my garage...
into a studio.
> What is the best flooring to use? The floor is concrete
now and has
> some stains from oil and other things- I have no idea what
they are."
> Donna Hoff-Grambau
> > Two Rivers Paper & Pottery
>
> Donna,
>
> I am in exactly the same situation at this moment. After
considering
> various concrete sealants, I believe that I will use
linoleum instead. In
> my work area, which bears the heaviest traffic and clay
infestation, I plan
> to duct tape a second layer of the same linoleum.
>
> To experiment, I recently laid down a sizable piece of
linoleum under my
> wheel, wedging table, and sink; I attached it to the floor
with duct tape.
> It has been much easier to clean than the relatively
smooth concrete of the
> old garage floor. And linoleum hides the defects (slight
cracks), spills,
> etc. that have accumulated over the years.
>
> Like you, I will be interested in Clayart responses on
this topic.
>
> Charles Moore
> Sacramento
Naomi Rieder on thu 18 sep 03
I've been using 1/4" sheets of Masonite, with duct tape, over concrete
flooring and find it very easy to maintain.
Naomi Rieder
wayneinkeywest on thu 18 sep 03
Phil:
Fortunately, you are mistaken. Linoleum is still available
but you might have to do some shopping to find it.
Still, linoleum is a heck of a lot more durable than the
newer "soft" vinyls.
One exception to that is the product called "VCT"
which is vinyl composition tile. Comes in 12 inch squares
and is sold for commercial applications.
Practically indestructible, that stuff, and available in a wide
range of color and pattern.
Hope that helps,
Wayne in Key West
> Hi Charles, and all...
>
>
> Ohhhhh....so far as I know, and I hope I am mistaken! - one
> my not anylonger buy ( new) 'Linoleum' except in a
> figurative sense.
>
> One obtains 'vinyl' or something else as is not Linoleum.
Url Krueger on mon 1 nov 04
On Mon, 2004-11-01 at 17:19, wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET wrote:
> The best thing I have found to use is also one of the most
> inexpensive. Simple acrylic floor finish.
Wayne,
What do you think about the epoxy paints designed for garage floors.
More expensive and somewhat of a pain to put down but they do come in
limited colors and some even have confetti like stuff in them, if you
like that look. Ought to last forever.
Would you go for a textured surface to prevent slippage, especially when
wet, or for as smooth as you can get so it cleans easier? Or would
it?
Thanks..
--
Earl K...
Bothell WA, USA
"You may be disappointed if you fail,
but you are doomed if you don't try."
Beverly Sills (1929 - )
Susan Nebeker on mon 1 nov 04
Candice,
I'm not an expert by any means on this subject, but I do have a thought on your dilemma.
I really like the flooring in my studio. We laid plywood down and then painted three coats of Varathane on it. I've never regretted it. It's water proof, really quite attractive and very easy to mop up. It's 6 years old now and despite the heavy traffic, shows no wear at all.
Don't know how you could slap plywood down on a concrete floor. But what about painting your concrete with a very good concrete paint? I've become a real fan of painted floors.
I've got a yurt which serves as my showroom. I painted the floor with 2 coats of heavy duty floor paint. I've been so pleased with it. The floors wipe up easier and cleaner than a vinyl flooring ever would. Ugh. I hate that vinyl. And did I mention economical??? You'd probably spend under $50-75 on paint and the primer/sealer for the square footage you mentioned.
Hope that helps-
Susan Nebeker
Pollywog Pottery
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page. www.yahoo.com/a
Candice Roeder on mon 1 nov 04
Hi all,
I have a 12 yr old studio. Only 10 x 20 feet in size, in a detached garage. When I set up my studio, on the advise of another potter, I left my concrete floor unsealed. The thinking behind it was that one could use it like a plaster bat...dry clay on it etc.
Well, I've never dried clay on it. But, boy is it a pain to clean. I'm ready for an improvement of some kind.
So, wandering Lowe's the other day, I was eyeing flooring products and was wondering if there could be a better solution, cleaning wise (and appearance-wise). Would sheet vinyl work...a top quality or commercial grade? How about stick down floor tiles....or would clay/water just get into the crevices? Or would just sealing it be the way to go?
Have any of you had a positive/negative experience with a vinyl floor? If it would be a total disaster, I'd like to avoid it, in which case I'd just seal what I've got.
I could, of course ask the young clerk at the home improvement store, but his goal is sales, right? I'd rather have a potter's opinion. What's your dream floor?
Thanks.
Candice
wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET on mon 1 nov 04
Candice:
The best thing I have found to use is also one of the most
inexpensive. Simple acrylic floor finish. Any janitorial supply
house will carry it, in various grades. Two coats, maybe three on
an unfinished (but clean!)concrete floor (inside only!) will give
you a satin-like finish, if not a complete gloss, be extremely easy
to clean by damp-mopping or hosing/wet vacuuming, AND be removable
with a regular floor stripper, should the need arise.
Acrylic floor finishes come in a bunch of varieties and brands, but
I am NOT talking about "Future" brand here. That stuff is
notoriously difficult to remove, even from vinyl floors. The
product I'm suggesting is available in 18%, 21%, and 25% solids, and
starts around $9 per gallon. A gallon covers about 300 square feet,
more coverage with successive coats. Four or five coats will give
you a high-gloss shine, if that's what you're into.
Don't use polyurethane, you'll never get it off. And putting vinyl
down on raw concrete can cause a mildew or mold growth if the
concrete "wicks" moisture up from the ground and it gets under the
vinyl. You'll know, because your vinyl will start to turn black.
Nasty!
Just my $0.02, but you've already got my dream floor...concrete.
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Candice
Roeder
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 9:32 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Studio Flooring
Hi all,
I have a 12 yr old studio. Only 10 x 20 feet in size, in a detached
garage. When I set up my studio, on the advise of another potter, I
left my concrete floor unsealed. The thinking behind it was that
one could use it like a plaster bat...dry clay on it etc.
Well, I've never dried clay on it. But, boy is it a pain to clean.
I'm ready for an improvement of some kind.
So, wandering Lowe's the other day, I was eyeing flooring products
and was wondering if there could be a better solution, cleaning wise
(and appearance-wise). Would sheet vinyl work...a top quality or
commercial grade? How about stick down floor tiles....or would
clay/water just get into the crevices? Or would just sealing it be
the way to go?
Have any of you had a positive/negative experience with a vinyl
floor? If it would be a total disaster, I'd like to avoid it, in
which case I'd just seal what I've got.
I could, of course ask the young clerk at the home improvement
store, but his goal is sales, right? I'd rather have a potter's
opinion. What's your dream floor?
Thanks.
Candice
Url Krueger on tue 2 nov 04
On Tue, 2004-11-02 at 08:02, wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET wrote:
A lot about different floor finishes.
Thanks, Wayne.
I hoped you would tell us more based on your extensive experience with
all kinds of different floor finishes. I just didn't quite expect such
a comprehensive report. But I'll take it!
Thanks again.
--
Earl K...
Bothell WA, USA
"You may be disappointed if you fail,
but you are doomed if you don't try."
Beverly Sills (1929 - )
Gene and Dolita Dohrman on tue 2 nov 04
Hi Candace, Wayne sent in some good advice. You already have the best
floor. When I was building my studio, I asked Clayart for suggestions.
Hands down, concrete was the way to go. We poured a concrete floor but it
hardened up too quickly so we did not get it as smooth as I wanted it. I
used an epoxy coating that is thicker than paint to try to fill in some of
the small craters. It dries to a nice soft shine. If your floor is smooth,
what Wayne suggested is the best way to go. Right now, in addition to being
hard to clean, your bare concrete floor is constantly creating additional
dust in your studio and you don't want that.
Dolita
dohrman@insightbb.com
Louisville, KY
denny means on tue 2 nov 04
Consider an epoxy paint for your studio floor. Lowe's & others sell a garage floor painting system made by Rustoleum that uses a two part epoxy paint. Cost $40. The paint comes with very small plastic chips which you sprinkle over the wet paint for a terrazzo effect.
I have this paint on the concrete floor of a basement and it has performed very well. People remark that the floor looks good, and ask what is it.
One key to successful application is to clean the surface of the existing floor very well. Cleaning followed by a wash with a mild solution of muriatic acid would be the ideal surface preparation.
If you try the paint and later decide to go to sheet goods, you're only out $40.
Denny
John Jensen on tue 2 nov 04
For years, I painted my concrete floor with Alkyd house paint, usually =
once
a year. I'd buy whatever was in the seconds stack at the paint store. =
Last
year I laid ceramic floor tile and have been very happy with it. I =
built
some curbs around the edges and tiled them so I can hose the floor down; =
and
on the low corner, the water collects to a pool I can pump out with an
electric pump.
I'm putting a new floor down in my second studio, what I call the =
"back
studio." Right now I have dirt, but I will be putting in a bed of =
crushed
stone covered with brick and concrete paving slabs. I guess I'll see =
how
that works out. I still should be able to hose it down.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com www://www.mudbugpottery.com
wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET on tue 2 nov 04
Earl:
First, I want to qualify what I wrote by saying that I've been a
professional cleaner for thirty two years now, owned my own business
for the past twelve. That said:
I like the polyurethanes (and Varathanes), I really do. But in a
moisture-laden environment (like a wet-shop for pottery maybe, or
anywhere in South Florida ) I've seen large sheets or chips of
polyurethane come peeling off concrete. This usually occurred
because of heavy vehicle or foot traffic, and issues with a poor or
not-quite-cured concrete surface, possibly covered in polyurethane
by people who thought that "as long as it's clean, I can just roll
it on, and voila!. Ain't so. Watched contractor after contractor
make that mistake. Cleaned up after more than a few of them. Get
that check and split, leave the pieces for the locals...don't get me
started...
The new two-part epoxies are a better breed. Harder, more durable
product, come in colors, even some now with that "confetti" that
"Url" mentions (I like that Earl, cute!) and relatively inexpensive.
Easy for the average homeowner to apply, widely available. But
there again, if one has problems with one's surface, or if moisture
is wicking up from underneath, the epoxy is going to pop off the
concrete. Acrylic floor finish is the only thing I've found so far
that actually soaks into concrete (besides kerosene, an old Cuban
trick) and becomes a "part" of it. It's cheap, long lasting, and as
I mentioned, reasonably durable and it can be removed (it's
strongest point). On the downside, it too is affected by moisture.
If exposed to standing water, or large percentages of moisture
wicking from the slab, it goes white, and stays white until it dries
again and returns to clear.
Probably the best thing one can do with concrete is simply stain it
as it is being installed and finished smooth. That would seem to be
the ideal solution. Unfortunately, we don't all have the option of
installing a new floor underneath our automatic kiln loaders like
Dolita. We take what we can get. For a permanent solution, you have
to reskin the floor by pouring an inch or more on top of the old.
Too much money and time for what is essentially "dressing". (That
floor works just fine as it is, even ugly.)
By the way, for cheap non-skid, you can roll whatever you choose to
use on the floor; finish, epoxy, polyurethane, Varathane, porch and
deck paint...) and while it's still wet, sprinkle it with silica
(if you have it around) or fine sand (same, same) and let it dry.
Done.
If you really want to create an interesting floor for your studio,
take a natural canvas (not PLASTIC!!) dropcloth. Cut it to fit wall
to wall. Paint it to suit yourself coat it with polyurethane and put
it on the concrete like a rug. Yeah it's work, but it's fun, it's
"art", and it's definitely YOU. (yes, you can glue it down if you
must, use Liquid nails or something like it at the corners and
edges) Easy to clean too...take it outside and hose it off.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Url
Krueger
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 1:18 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Studio Flooring
On Mon, 2004-11-01 at 17:19, wjskw@BELLSOUTH.NET wrote:
> The best thing I have found to use is also one of the most
> inexpensive. Simple acrylic floor finish.
Wayne,
What do you think about the epoxy paints designed for garage floors.
More expensive and somewhat of a pain to put down but they do come
in
limited colors and some even have confetti like stuff in them, if
you
like that look. Ought to last forever.
Would you go for a textured surface to prevent slippage, especially
when
wet, or for as smooth as you can get so it cleans easier? Or would
it?
Thanks..
--
Earl K...
Bothell WA, USA
"You may be disappointed if you fail,
but you are doomed if you don't try."
Beverly Sills (1929 - )
____________________________________________________________________
__________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Mike Gordon on tue 2 nov 04
On Nov 2, 2004, at 8:38 AM, John Jensen wrote:
Right now I have dirt, but I will be putting in a bed of crushed
stone covered with brick and concrete paving slabs. I guess I'll see
how
that works out. I still should be able to hose it down.
John,
A bit of advise on your new floor over dirt. Put a wall to wall layer
of heavy duty plastic down before the crushed rock. This will act as a
moisture barrier during wet winter months, if you have them, Mike
Gordon
Candace Young/Norman Czuchra on tue 2 nov 04
> I'd rather have a potter's opinion. What's your dream floor?
>
>Thanks.
>Candice
Candice, I used a vinyl floor in my 24 x 24 foot studio from Sears since
1983 and it has served me well except for cuts and nicks in the vinyl from
dropping things. We are finishing a new studio which has a cement slab and
for now are painting it and will use area fatigue mats. I didn't want
vinyl this time around and will see how the painted cement works. Candace
Candace Young mailto:candace@bayriverpottery.com
Norm Czuchra mailto:norm@bayriverpottery.com
http://www.bayriverpottery.com
107 S. Water Street, P.O. Box 394
Bayboro, NC 28515
252.745.4749
John Jensen on wed 3 nov 04
Mike;
Thanks for the very good advice. I built an addition to my house year
before last (a painting studio) with concrete foundation, and =
cinderblock
lower walls set into the earth. With all this I sealed the block, put =
down
plastic, and did all the correct things to keep water out. It seems to =
be
working. With this new pottery studio, I built the block with lots of
cracks and holes and didn't seal it. The block is about two feet down =
into
the earth. I've been using it with a dirt floor for over a year now and
only get water in during to most extreme rainstorms. Because of the =
general
yard drainage, there isn't any normal dampnes or seepage. I wouldn't =
mind
if there were, anyway. I expect to be hosing it down at least once a =
week
and also expect the water will drain down into the dirt below the =
stones.
Every once in a while, I get lucky and these things work out the way I
expect. Then again its not too unusual for me to be cursing my bad
judgement. I love to take advantage of my natural right to make =
mistakes
and test out unconventional approaches from time to time.
If you are going to NCECA in the spring you can come by and see how it
worked out. We are on the Annapolis tour. Bring your hip boots.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com www://www.mudbugpottery.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Mike Gordon
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 8:19 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
hose it down.
John,
A bit of advise on your new floor over dirt. Put a wall to wall layer
of heavy duty plastic down before the crushed rock. This will act as a
moisture barrier during wet winter months, if you have them, Mike
Gordon
Mike Gordon on wed 3 nov 04
On Nov 3, 2004, at 9:01 AM, John Jensen wrote:
I expect to be hosing it down at least once a week
and also expect the water will drain down into the dirt below the
stones.
John - depending on the slope of your property, you can put a drain in
the floor, now is the time to do it. Mike Gordon
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
John Jensen on thu 4 nov 04
Guess what...Already did that! Once again...thanks for some good advice.
John Jensen, Mudbug Pottery
John Jensen@mudbugpottery.com
http://www.toadhouse.com www://www.mudbugpottery.com
John - depending on the slope of your property, you can put a drain in
the floor, now is the time to do it. Mike Gordon
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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