Sandi Finney on sun 28 sep 03
I read a procedure regarding enhancement of carbon trapping in
shino recently and tried this out on several thinly thrown platters.
I use stoneware. I applied my favorite gold shino and then boiled
water, mixing in as much soda ash as possible to hold a heavy
suspension. Then I used a soft brush and applied several (about 5 or
6) thin layers of soda ash directly to the dry glaze, allowing each layer
to dry. I set aside this ware for four days prior to firing.
I fire cone 10 in natural gas. I fired to 012 and then began heavy
reduction for about an hour. At that point, I gradually moved from heavy
reduction to light reduction for the remander of my firing. At "tippy"
cone 11, I soaked my kiln for about an hour.
The platters were green with no carbon trapping. Additionally, they
had sharp and rough pitting, making them very dangerous. The
unglazed bottoms of the ware were a shiny umber color.
I've fired shino without the soda ash application (and in this method)
with very nice results. I used this soda ash method to achieve some
"enhancement" to the carbon trapping. Could anyone help me here?
Sandi Finney
Hole Pottery
Indianapolis
Britt Britt on sun 28 sep 03
Sandy,
You just put on way too much soda ash. Instead of 4 -5 coats, try one
coat.
Too much soda ash causes it to turn a fly's eye green.
Hope that helps,
John Britt
Donald G. Goldsobel on mon 29 sep 03
If you go too heavy on th e soda ash, the result is snot green. Go lightly
with the soda ash. Perhaps a thin spray. Let it dry to form a whiteish fuzz
on the outside and procede to fire as a carbon tap shino.
Donald
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sandi Finney"
To:
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 9:58 AM
Subject: shino with a soda ash "wash" disaster. Please help me!
> I read a procedure regarding enhancement of carbon trapping in
> shino recently and tried this out on several thinly thrown platters.
>
> I use stoneware. I applied my favorite gold shino and then boiled
> water, mixing in as much soda ash as possible to hold a heavy
> suspension. Then I used a soft brush and applied several (about 5 or
> 6) thin layers of soda ash directly to the dry glaze, allowing each layer
> to dry. I set aside this ware for four days prior to firing.
>
> I fire cone 10 in natural gas. I fired to 012 and then began heavy
> reduction for about an hour. At that point, I gradually moved from heavy
> reduction to light reduction for the remander of my firing. At "tippy"
> cone 11, I soaked my kiln for about an hour.
>
> The platters were green with no carbon trapping. Additionally, they
> had sharp and rough pitting, making them very dangerous. The
> unglazed bottoms of the ware were a shiny umber color.
>
> I've fired shino without the soda ash application (and in this method)
> with very nice results. I used this soda ash method to achieve some
> "enhancement" to the carbon trapping. Could anyone help me here?
>
> Sandi Finney
> Hole Pottery
> Indianapolis
>
>
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Lee Love on mon 29 sep 03
Too much soda ash will give you something that looks like "Snot
Green."
I find that more carbon trapping occurs when you fire the soda ash
shino right after glazing.
Because the soluables come from the clay body that produce the
carbon trapping, I've dipped or brushed a light solution of soda ash water
on the pot before glazing with shino.
Iron content of the clay body effects the color of shino.
--
Lee In Mashiko, Japan Lee@Mashiko.org
Liz Willoughby on tue 30 sep 03
Sandi, I agree with all the responses that you have received. Too
much soda ash, and you get an unpleasant green. I have had good
results with dipping pots in the shino (soda ash 18%), and then
spraying lightly with the same glaze over the dipped pot. If I
remember correctly there is not much soda ash in the gold shino
recipe. I would recommend instead of just spraying a light coating
of soda ash solution over your gold shino; to add some of your glaze
to the soda ash solution and then spray. Alternatively, if you would
prefer not to spray, use a brush and put dots of soda ash solution or
a mixture of glaze and solution on the plates. Would be time
consuming, but would probably also work.
Best regards,
Liz from Grafton
> > I use stoneware. I applied my favorite gold shino and then boiled
>> water, mixing in as much soda ash as possible to hold a heavy
>> suspension. Then I used a soft brush and applied several (about 5 or
>> 6) thin layers of soda ash directly to the dry glaze, allowing each layer
>> to dry. I set aside this ware for four days prior to firing.
>>
>> I fire cone 10 in natural gas. I fired to 012 and then began heavy
>> reduction for about an hour. At that point, I gradually moved from heavy
>> reduction to light reduction for the remander of my firing. At "tippy"
>> cone 11, I soaked my kiln for about an hour.
>>
>> The platters were green with no carbon trapping. Additionally, they
>> had sharp and rough pitting, making them very dangerous. The
>> unglazed bottoms of the ware were a shiny umber color.
>>
>> I've fired shino without the soda ash application (and in this method)
>> with very nice results. I used this soda ash method to achieve some
>> "enhancement" to the carbon trapping. Could anyone help me here?
>>
> Sandi Finney
--
Liz Willoughby
RR #1
2903 Shelter Valley Rd.
Grafton, Ontario
Canada
K0K 2G0
905-349-3130
lizwill@phc.igs.net
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