Lily Krakowski on tue 30 sep 03
There have been several related queries recently about making c.6 electric
kiln glazes more amusing.
I assume that these come from people used to reduction where the reduction
and/or woodsmoke/ash creates subtle contrasts.
C. 6 electric does not offer these effects. Which does not mean that subtle
effects cannot be had.
For one, adding some red clay to a glaze, replacing another clay, can have
pleasant effects. Barnard/Blackbird, RedArt—or those two new “Albany slip”
types-- might prove interesting in an otherwise “boring” glaze. As these
clays tend to have lower melting points than kaolins or ball clays, the
glaze may need adjusting.
Using an inter-active, or vitreous engobe under the glaze works well. The
two names mean the same thing: a slip on the verge of becoming a glaze, a
glaze that is still close to being a slip. These glazes tend to boil and
therefore pop through the glaze for very dramatic effects. They require a
bit of work to get the boiling controlled so that it does not leave
pockmarks. As I do not have a digital controller I cannot make any
statements about how this pockmarking can be controlled by slow down-firing.
I have used c.8 or higher glazes meant to be used on leatherhard clay. I
have used these as slips, and glazed over them after the bisque. Worth a
try. Great for those of us who glaze by brush.
As I have said before, interesting things can be done by painting the glaze
with something sticky, and dusting it with ash or rutile or some other
material that might give interesting results. I use thinned out Karo syrup
for this, others use plain white glue.
Selective double dipping works well. Here wax is painted carefully on the
glazed pot which then is given a second coat of glaze. As glaze on glaze is
not the easiest, this requires fine tuning and trial and error.
Another suggestion is semi-transparent glazes over slips. This is kinda
self-explanatory. A semi transparent glaze is just that, and gives a sort
of gracious veiled and subtle look to slips underneath.
You must remember this: a glaze that has colorants in it and has been
tested (as have RonJohn’s glazes) as safe for food containers MAY NOT REMAIN
so if used in combination with an interactive engobe or another glaze.
Try to get ahold of Robin Hopper's The Ceramic Spectrum and Constant and
Ogden's The Ceramic Palette. They should tell you about more recondite
colorants such as nickel and iron chromate and ilmenite (powdered) and so on
which might help. Just keep in mind: what you are trying to replicate is
IMPURE cobalt. Also: try tin as your opacifier.
Also, yikes: you are not trying to replicate a lead glaze are you?
Lili Krakowski
Constableville, N.Y.
Be of good courage....
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