George Koller on tue 30 sep 03
> Why use Borax? It is soluble. Why not a boron frit?
> Tons of iron in a runny glaze will produce the tiny
> crystals, but getting the same kind of effect to happen
> with other colorants may not be so easy. Some will simply
> matte the glaze, each will have its own preferred firing
> schedule. How about using colored glaze sands in a light
> base glaze. Each bit of sand will be a small colored speck,
> but not a crystal.
Tony,
First, so you know, I think this electronic micro dispensing
nozzle concept is finally starting to work out for us. Software
enhancements last year got us a 10X increase and I have
another 2X tweak or two to make yet.... we now have an
onboard computer controlling the nozzle most precisely.
Ain't software just THE right tool - sometimes?
Our biggest issue with going to higher cones has been
element life. Otherwise we are open to a higher temps.
Because we are doing tiles I have been thinking soluble /
runny glazes might not be so bad.
We are looking to do multiple colors = multiple salts on
same pieces however so anything about getting a nice
micro-crystalline effect that is consistent across the metals
will be most important in the long run!
I have two books on order now for all of this but am ready
to buy FA's book/CD or whatever also. Are you saying there
are formulas in it that are optimum for what we are trying to
do or can/would you put together a good glaze base to start
from? - one that is likely to encourage micro-crystalling growth
and make interesting glazes for many / all of the metals?
And ready to take that kiln up a notch or two to do it.
What do you think about using some Titanium Oxide in the
base also to help seed & add opacity? Is there a specific
formula in FA's book that you would suggest starting with?
Thanks so much,
George
bit bad by the crystal bug, old glazes looking so daede.
George Koller on tue 30 sep 03
Hello Glaze Experts,
I have done many hours of looking around now - including at Ababi's site
with pictures - and saw the glazes Tom formulated, but the
pictures do not allow me to compare well at the "micro-crystalline"
level - and they are cone 6.
We want to fire to lower temps mostly to save kiln coils but we are
not absolutely stuck on 04. The tiles we glaze are off-white (biege) so
the glaze must be white-ish to cream and somewhat opaque. Cost of
ingrediants is not so much the issue as "reliability" to be used many
thousands of times to decorate tiles. The tiles are H&R Johnson - I
believe they are referred to as English Bone China". They are pretty
darned stable and clean and not "toothy". They don't shrink much if
at all at cone 04. The base glaze will be sprayed on (we will add CMC
and such to suit).
The Crystals we want are not the "Macro" cyrstals - we want nice even
many smaller crystals that you generally don't even "see" but that give
light, texture, interest, life to the glaze. The colorants will be the
metal salts.
Primarily Iron right now but also: Cu, Co, Ni, Cr, Manganese.
The following formula was listed by Ababi in a April 2000 clayart thread.
It was in the Diane Gerber book but, I think, was originally published in
a 1980 book that I have found by John Conrad.
AVENTURINE, JOHN CONRAD ^04 (G131)
BORAX............... 57.28 57.75%
BORIC ACID.......... 3.50 3.53%
QUARTZ.............. 22.40 22.59%
WOLLASTONITE........ 1.80 1.81%
========
99.18
CaO 0.09* 1.24%
Na2O 0.91* 13.25%
B2O3 1.98 32.56%
SiO2 2.34 33.22%
Fe2O3 0.52 19.73%
Expan 9.95
As I expect to use this glaze the colorants will be pulled out - and put
back
as sulfates/citrates.
Any comments on this glaze? Is this a good starting point? If it doesn't
seem just right are there somethings that can / should be experimented
with - ie those line tests I'm always reading about but have never done
(systematically).
The Conrad book is a North American book, I believe, and was published
in 1980.......
Is "Quartz" a possible issue ? I looked this up but don't want to take
a
chance on this messing things up at all.
Thanks one thousand times for any responses,
George Koller
Sturgeon Bay, WI (920) 746-8705
Northport, MI (231) 386-5423
PS The Diane Cerber book is on order. We've been using the same basic
glazes for seven years now and so not anxious to change. This is an 11th
hour
thing encouraged by the "life" that we have recently seen put into our glaze
but on a "sometimes we see it / sometimes we don't" basis. Recently I
have
been thinking that the glazes may be seperating after / during spraying
somewhat
differently depending on thickness / spray patterns - something I have been
trying
to get more consistent lately with but with (maybe) exactly opposite effect.
Also
there is this possibly sloppy assumption that what is good at the macro
level should
also be good at the micro-level. Is this valid?
Honestly, this is such an overwhelming area of ceramics with so many
factors
at work that I might well be trying to forget about all this if it wan't for
ClayArt.
But those Crystals beckon....
Ababi on tue 30 sep 03
Tom did not formulate the glazes. Tom very kindly (as always) formulated
for me a porcelaneous stoneware. When he made it I could not buy here
plastic kaolin or molochite.
This claybody by the way failed in all the "Ron and John" tests however
for crystal glazes it is excellent.
In that page there are three wares with this claybody:
ABABIS ^6 PORCELIANOUS BY TOM BU
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Cone 6 1222 deg.C. -
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
ball clay AK 48.00
kaolin CC31 33.00
Nepheline Syenite 14.00
Alumina Hydrate 5.00
Bentonite 2.00
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Seger Weight%
KNO 0.567 3.55%
CaO 0.058 0.27%
MgO 0.375 1.25%
Al2O3 4.617 38.77%
SiO2 11.225 55.60%
TiO2 0.086 0.57%
K2O 0.244 1.89%
Na2O 0.323 1.65%
Al:Si 2.43
Expan. 5.85
ST 430.48
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Tom reduced the unplastic kaolin and increased the plastic ball clay.
The last times I used it was with EPK or Kaolin D'arvor which is similar
to EPK. Because it is very hard to use I have done the bottle in
paperclay.
The bottle fall in the firing but you can see the nice crystals.
With EPK the analysis:
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Seger Weight%
KNO 0.497 2.48%
CaO 0.059 0.23%
MgO 0.444 1.26%
Al2O3 5.561 40.05%
SiO2 13.049 55.43%
TiO2 0.096 0.54%
K2O 0.132 0.88%
Na2O 0.365 1.60%
Al:Si 2.35
Expan. 5.58
ST 436.31
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of George
Koller
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 9:35 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Low Melt Micro-Crystalline Glaze advise sought
Hello Glaze Experts,
I have done many hours of looking around now - including at Ababi's site
with pictures - and saw the glazes Tom formulated, but the
pictures do not allow me to compare well at the "micro-crystalline"
level - and they are cone 6.
We want to fire to lower temps mostly to save kiln coils but we are
not absolutely stuck on 04. The tiles we glaze are off-white (biege) so
the glaze must be white-ish to cream and somewhat opaque. Cost of
ingrediants is not so much the issue as "reliability" to be used many
thousands of times to decorate tiles. The tiles are H&R Johnson - I
believe they are referred to as English Bone China". They are pretty
darned stable and clean and not "toothy". They don't shrink much if
at all at cone 04. The base glaze will be sprayed on (we will add CMC
and such to suit).
The Crystals we want are not the "Macro" cyrstals - we want nice even
many smaller crystals that you generally don't even "see" but that give
light, texture, interest, life to the glaze. The colorants will be the
metal salts.
Primarily Iron right now but also: Cu, Co, Ni, Cr, Manganese.
The following formula was listed by Ababi in a April 2000 clayart
thread.
It was in the Diane Gerber book but, I think, was originally published
in
a 1980 book that I have found by John Conrad.
AVENTURINE, JOHN CONRAD ^04 (G131)
BORAX............... 57.28 57.75%
BORIC ACID.......... 3.50 3.53%
QUARTZ.............. 22.40 22.59%
WOLLASTONITE........ 1.80 1.81%
========
99.18
CaO 0.09* 1.24%
Na2O 0.91* 13.25%
B2O3 1.98 32.56%
SiO2 2.34 33.22%
Fe2O3 0.52 19.73%
Expan 9.95
As I expect to use this glaze the colorants will be pulled out - and put
back
as sulfates/citrates.
Any comments on this glaze? Is this a good starting point? If it
doesn't
seem just right are there somethings that can / should be experimented
with - ie those line tests I'm always reading about but have never done
(systematically).
The Conrad book is a North American book, I believe, and was published
in 1980.......
Is "Quartz" a possible issue ? I looked this up but don't want to
take
a
chance on this messing things up at all.
Thanks one thousand times for any responses,
George Koller
Sturgeon Bay, WI (920) 746-8705
Northport, MI (231) 386-5423
PS The Diane Cerber book is on order. We've been using the same basic
glazes for seven years now and so not anxious to change. This is an
11th
hour
thing encouraged by the "life" that we have recently seen put into our
glaze
but on a "sometimes we see it / sometimes we don't" basis. Recently
I
have
been thinking that the glazes may be seperating after / during spraying
somewhat
differently depending on thickness / spray patterns - something I have
been
trying
to get more consistent lately with but with (maybe) exactly opposite
effect.
Also
there is this possibly sloppy assumption that what is good at the macro
level should
also be good at the micro-level. Is this valid?
Honestly, this is such an overwhelming area of ceramics with so many
factors
at work that I might well be trying to forget about all this if it wan't
for
ClayArt.
But those Crystals beckon....
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Tony Hansen on tue 30 sep 03
Why use Borax? It is soluble. Why not a boron frit?
Tons of iron in a runny glaze will produce the tiny
crystals, but getting the same kind of effect to happen
with other colorants may not be so easy. Some will simply
matte the glaze, each will have its own preferred firing
schedule. How about using colored glaze sands in a light
base glaze. Each bit of sand will be a small colored speck,
but not a crystal.
You may have to go with a real crystalline glaze.
Check here: http://digitalfire.com/books/514.php
If you can compromise and go to cone 1 or 2 alot more
options will be possible but I suppose the tiles will
warp. Even cone 02 would help.
-------8<--------
Hello Glaze Experts,
I have done many hours of looking around now - including at Ababi\'s site
with pictures - and saw the glazes Tom formulated, but the
pictures do not allow me to compare well at the \"micro-crystalline\"
level - and they are cone 6.
We want to fire to lower temps mostly to save kiln coils but we are
not absolutely stuck on 04. The tiles we glaze are off-white (biege) so
the glaze must be white-ish to cream and somewhat opaque. Cost of
ingrediants is not so much the issue as \"reliability\" to be used many
thousands of times to decorate tiles. The tiles are H&R Johnson - I
believe they are referred to as English Bone China\". They are pretty
darned stable and clean and not \"toothy\". They don\'t shrink much if
at all at cone 04. The base glaze will be sprayed on (we will add CMC
and such to suit).
The Crystals we want are not the \"Macro\" cyrstals - we want nice even
many smaller crystals that you generally don\'t even \"see\" but that give
light, texture, interest, life to the glaze. The colorants will be the
metal salts.
Primarily Iron right now but also: Cu, Co, Ni, Cr, Manganese.
The following formula was listed by Ababi in a April 2000 clayart thread.
It was in the Diane Gerber book but, I think, was originally published in
a 1980 book that I have found by John Conrad.
AVENTURINE, JOHN CONRAD ^04 (G131)
BORAX............... 57.28 57.75%
BORIC ACID.......... 3.50 3.53%
QUARTZ.............. 22.40 22.59%
WOLLASTONITE........ 1.80 1.81%
========
99.18
CaO 0.09* 1.24%
Na2O 0.91* 13.25%
B2O3 1.98 32.56%
SiO2 2.34 33.22%
Fe2O3 0.52 19.73%
Expan 9.95
As I expect to use this glaze the colorants will be pulled out - and put
back
as sulfates/citrates.
Any comments on this glaze? Is this a good starting point? If it doesn\'t
seem just right are there somethings that can / should be experimented
with - ie those line tests I\'m always reading about but have never done
(systematically).
The Conrad book is a North American book, I believe, and was published
in 1980.......
Is \"Quartz\" a possible issue ? I looked this up but don\'t want to take
a
chance on this messing things up at all.
Thanks one thousand times for any responses,
George Koller
Sturgeon Bay, WI (920) 746-8705
Northport, MI (231) 386-5423
PS The Diane Cerber book is on order. We\'ve been using the same basic
glazes for seven years now and so not anxious to change. This is an 11th
hour
thing encouraged by the \"life\" that we have recently seen put into our glaze
but on a \"sometimes we see it / sometimes we don\'t\" basis. Recently I
have
been thinking that the glazes may be seperating after / during spraying
somewhat
differently depending on thickness / spray patterns - something I have been
trying
to get more consistent lately with but with (maybe) exactly opposite effect.
Also
there is this possibly sloppy assumption that what is good at the macro
level should
also be good at the micro-level. Is this valid?
Honestly, this is such an overwhelming area of ceramics with so many
factors
at work that I might well be trying to forget about all this if it wan\'t for
ClayArt.
But those Crystals beckon....
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--------
Tony Hansen, Digitalfire Corp.
Ababi on wed 1 oct 03
Hello Tony
How can you do this recipe with a frit?
It is mainly B2O3 and Na2O?
The only way I see is totally reformulating the glaze.
Because the few tests I had made with such a glaze totally failed I
would not spend more time on such a weird recipe!
Ababi Sharon
Glaze addict
Kibbutz Shoval Israel
ababisha@shoval.org.il
http://members4.clubphoto.com/ababi306910
http://www.matrix2000.co.nz/Matrix%20Demo/Ababi.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Tony Hansen
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 12:41 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Low Melt Micro-Crystalline Glaze advise sought
Why use Borax? It is soluble. Why not a boron frit?
Tons of iron in a runny glaze will produce the tiny
crystals, but getting the same kind of effect to happen
with other colorants may not be so easy. Some will simply
matte the glaze, each will have its own preferred firing
schedule. How about using colored glaze sands in a light
base glaze. Each bit of sand will be a small colored speck,
but not a crystal.
You may have to go with a real crystalline glaze.
Check here: http://digitalfire.com/books/514.php
If you can compromise and go to cone 1 or 2 alot more
options will be possible but I suppose the tiles will
warp. Even cone 02 would help.
-------8<--------
Hello Glaze Experts,
I have done many hours of looking around now - including at Ababi\'s
site
with pictures - and saw the glazes Tom formulated, but the
pictures do not allow me to compare well at the \"micro-crystalline\"
level - and they are cone 6.
We want to fire to lower temps mostly to save kiln coils but we are
not absolutely stuck on 04. The tiles we glaze are off-white (biege) so
the glaze must be white-ish to cream and somewhat opaque. Cost of
ingrediants is not so much the issue as \"reliability\" to be used many
thousands of times to decorate tiles. The tiles are H&R Johnson - I
believe they are referred to as English Bone China\". They are pretty
darned stable and clean and not \"toothy\". They don\'t shrink much if
at all at cone 04. The base glaze will be sprayed on (we will add CMC
and such to suit).
The Crystals we want are not the \"Macro\" cyrstals - we want nice even
many smaller crystals that you generally don\'t even \"see\" but that
give
light, texture, interest, life to the glaze. The colorants will be the
metal salts.
Primarily Iron right now but also: Cu, Co, Ni, Cr, Manganese.
The following formula was listed by Ababi in a April 2000 clayart
thread.
It was in the Diane Gerber book but, I think, was originally published
in
a 1980 book that I have found by John Conrad.
AVENTURINE, JOHN CONRAD ^04 (G131)
BORAX............... 57.28 57.75%
BORIC ACID.......... 3.50 3.53%
QUARTZ.............. 22.40 22.59%
WOLLASTONITE........ 1.80 1.81%
========
99.18
CaO 0.09* 1.24%
Na2O 0.91* 13.25%
B2O3 1.98 32.56%
SiO2 2.34 33.22%
Fe2O3 0.52 19.73%
Expan 9.95
As I expect to use this glaze the colorants will be pulled out - and put
back
as sulfates/citrates.
Any comments on this glaze? Is this a good starting point? If it
doesn\'t
seem just right are there somethings that can / should be experimented
with - ie those line tests I\'m always reading about but have never done
(systematically).
The Conrad book is a North American book, I believe, and was published
in 1980.......
Is \"Quartz\" a possible issue ? I looked this up but don\'t want
to take
a
chance on this messing things up at all.
Thanks one thousand times for any responses,
George Koller
Sturgeon Bay, WI (920) 746-8705
Northport, MI (231) 386-5423
PS The Diane Cerber book is on order. We\'ve been using the same basic
glazes for seven years now and so not anxious to change. This is an
11th
hour
thing encouraged by the \"life\" that we have recently seen put into our
glaze
but on a \"sometimes we see it / sometimes we don\'t\" basis.
Recently I
have
been thinking that the glazes may be seperating after / during spraying
somewhat
differently depending on thickness / spray patterns - something I have
been
trying
to get more consistent lately with but with (maybe) exactly opposite
effect.
Also
there is this possibly sloppy assumption that what is good at the macro
level should
also be good at the micro-level. Is this valid?
Honestly, this is such an overwhelming area of ceramics with so many
factors
at work that I might well be trying to forget about all this if it
wan\'t for
ClayArt.
But those Crystals beckon....
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
--------
Tony Hansen, Digitalfire Corp.
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
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