dalecochoy on tue 30 sep 03
I have a new Olympic 2831G which I've fired twice. Once to about cone 04
and then to cone 10.
After cool down of second firing, during unloading , I noticed cracks in
the lid. 4 cracks running radially from the hole just about all the way to
edge. They were in 3 of the 4 90degree quadrants. One quadrant has two!!
Two of them go all the way through and I can see them on top.
I spoke with manufacturer and their explanation was "This is normal".
I spoke via email with 4 or 5 other 2831G owners who have the same cracks
and said the same thing, normal.
Now, I'm curious as to what "Normal" should mean. I remember years ago
someone I knew had a Mercedes that had warranty problem after problem. When
she took it to the dealer under warranty she heard, normal, normal, normal.
My son has had a similar thing with his Hyundai, until he took it to another
warrenty dealer and they fixed the problems.
Now, if it happens to everyone....is that "Normal" or...is that a
fault/flaw??
I was told by manufacturer to tighten the band around top and they'd "go
away". Well...no they don't. I imagine the reason is because the band has
three adjustments that are between the hinge sides which don't allow you to
draw it any closer ( If you could the hinge would be too tight anyway ) ,
but they only get maybe 3/4 turn on each screw anyway. Makes me wonder
though why aren't the strap tightening screws OUTSIDE of the hinge assy?
I got some good hints from another clayarter on outside support of bottom
or/and spreading post load in bottom with some scrap shelf pieces under the
posts that sit on bottom. I'll try these and sound like great advice to stop
future cracks in bottom. . ( No cracks seen on bottom after firing yet) .
But I don't see a fix or reason for this "Normal" problem with the lid. In
my opinion, it should be built to avoid this problem . I realize the temp
differences between it and electric but my old cone 6 electric only has a
few small cracks in bottom after MANY years and none in top. It is nowhere
near as thick of brick construction as the gas kiln..
Any thoughts on this "Normal" problem and why it's "Normalness" can't be
designed out?!
The "They get hotter" line doesn't fly with me. They are SUPPOSED TO BE
designed for that!
Regards,
Dale Cochoy
SusanRaku@AOL.COM on tue 30 sep 03
In a message dated 9/30/2003 2:41:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
dalecochoy@PRODIGY.NET writes:
> 4 cracks running radially from the hole just about all the way to
> edge. They were in 3 of the 4 90degree quadrants. One quadrant has two!!
> Two of them go all the way through and I can see them on top.
> I spoke with manufacturer and their explanation was "This is normal".
>
This company has the habit of saying whatever necessary so they will not have
to take responsibility for any defect. Good luck!!
Susan
Rob Haugen on wed 1 oct 03
Stress cracking in any large slab of insulated fire brick is considered
normal. Most kilns are designed with adjustable clamps on the jackets to
keep everything tight. If cracks appear, the jackets need to be tightened
and the cracks will most likely disappear. Olympic has been building
updraft gas kilns for over 35 years. We stand behind every kiln that we
build. If anyone has any questions or concerns abuot an Olympic Kiln please
e-mail me at robhaugen@kilns-kilns.com or call me at (800)241-4400.
Rob Haugen
Olympic Kilns
----- Original Message -----
From: "dalecochoy"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 1:30 PM
Subject: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
> I have a new Olympic 2831G which I've fired twice. Once to about cone 04
> and then to cone 10.
> After cool down of second firing, during unloading , I noticed cracks in
> the lid. 4 cracks running radially from the hole just about all the way
to
> edge. They were in 3 of the 4 90degree quadrants. One quadrant has
two!!
> Two of them go all the way through and I can see them on top.
> I spoke with manufacturer and their explanation was "This is normal".
> I spoke via email with 4 or 5 other 2831G owners who have the same cracks
> and said the same thing, normal.
> Now, I'm curious as to what "Normal" should mean. I remember years ago
> someone I knew had a Mercedes that had warranty problem after problem.
When
> she took it to the dealer under warranty she heard, normal, normal,
normal.
> My son has had a similar thing with his Hyundai, until he took it to
another
> warrenty dealer and they fixed the problems.
> Now, if it happens to everyone....is that "Normal" or...is that a
> fault/flaw??
> I was told by manufacturer to tighten the band around top and they'd "go
> away". Well...no they don't. I imagine the reason is because the band has
> three adjustments that are between the hinge sides which don't allow you
to
> draw it any closer ( If you could the hinge would be too tight anyway ) ,
> but they only get maybe 3/4 turn on each screw anyway. Makes me wonder
> though why aren't the strap tightening screws OUTSIDE of the hinge assy?
> I got some good hints from another clayarter on outside support of bottom
> or/and spreading post load in bottom with some scrap shelf pieces under
the
> posts that sit on bottom. I'll try these and sound like great advice to
stop
> future cracks in bottom. . ( No cracks seen on bottom after firing yet) .
> But I don't see a fix or reason for this "Normal" problem with the lid.
In
> my opinion, it should be built to avoid this problem . I realize the temp
> differences between it and electric but my old cone 6 electric only has a
> few small cracks in bottom after MANY years and none in top. It is nowhere
> near as thick of brick construction as the gas kiln..
> Any thoughts on this "Normal" problem and why it's "Normalness" can't be
> designed out?!
> The "They get hotter" line doesn't fly with me. They are SUPPOSED TO BE
> designed for that!
> Regards,
> Dale Cochoy
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Celeste Sabel on wed 1 oct 03
Hi Dale and Clayarters,
I, too, own a 2831G which has numerous cracks in the top which concern me. I, too, called the manufacturer, who insisted the cracks are normal. I was not satisfied with their answer but in spite of insistent e-mails (sent by me), I was just told the same thing: normal, normal, normal. I would have at least appreciated a little more explanation. I, too, would like the advice of clayarters.
Thanks, Celeste Sabel, Montgomery, AL
in response to the following (partial) e-mail:
>From: dalecochoy
>I have a new Olympic 2831G which I've fired twice. Once to about cone 04
>and then to cone 10.
>After cool down of second firing, during unloading , I noticed cracks in
>the lid. 4 cracks running radially from the hole just about all the way to
>edge. They were in 3 of the 4 90degree quadrants. One quadrant has two!!
>Two of them go all the way through and I can see them on top.
>I spoke with manufacturer and their explanation was "This is normal".
>I spoke via email with 4 or 5 other 2831G owners who have the same cracks
>and said the same thing, normal.
>Now, I'm curious as to what "Normal" should mean.
Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE
dalecochoy on wed 1 oct 03
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Haugen"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
> Stress cracking in any large slab of insulated fire brick is considered
> normal.
I'd like some info from people who have other brands to find out if "normal"
on theirs.
. Most kilns are designed with adjustable clamps on the jackets to
> keep everything tight. If cracks appear, the jackets need to be tightened
> and the cracks will most likely disappear.
Read below, no they don't tighten ( they can't!) and no the cracks didn't
disappear
! Olympic has been building
> updraft gas kilns for over 35 years.
Have they been cracking that long??
We stand behind every kiln that we
> build.
Then replace the cracked tops on peoples new kilns!!
If anyone has any questions or concerns abuot an Olympic Kiln please
> e-mail me at robhaugen@kilns-kilns.com or call me at (800)241-4400.
> Rob Haugen
> Olympic Kilns
It sounds like several people ( including me) have already done that. Would
you like copies of emails from a few people I've been corresponding with??
Regards,
Dale Cochoy
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dalecochoy"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 1:30 PM
> Subject: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
> > I have a new Olympic 2831G which I've fired twice. Once to about cone
04
> > and then to cone 10.
> > After cool down of second firing, during unloading , I noticed cracks
in
> > the lid. 4 cracks running radially from the hole just about all the way
> to
> > edge. They were in 3 of the 4 90degree quadrants. One quadrant has
> two!!
> > Two of them go all the way through and I can see them on top.
> > I spoke with manufacturer and their explanation was "This is normal".
> > I spoke via email with 4 or 5 other 2831G owners who have the same
cracks
> > and said the same thing, normal.
> > Now, I'm curious as to what "Normal" should mean. I remember years ago
> > someone I knew had a Mercedes that had warranty problem after problem.
> When
> > she took it to the dealer under warranty she heard, normal, normal,
> normal.
> > My son has had a similar thing with his Hyundai, until he took it to
> another
> > warrenty dealer and they fixed the problems.
> > Now, if it happens to everyone....is that "Normal" or...is that a
> > fault/flaw??
> > I was told by manufacturer to tighten the band around top and they'd "go
> > away". Well...no they don't. I imagine the reason is because the band
has
> > three adjustments that are between the hinge sides which don't allow you
> to
> > draw it any closer ( If you could the hinge would be too tight anyway )
,
> > but they only get maybe 3/4 turn on each screw anyway. Makes me wonder
> > though why aren't the strap tightening screws OUTSIDE of the hinge
assy?
> > I got some good hints from another clayarter on outside support of
bottom
> > or/and spreading post load in bottom with some scrap shelf pieces under
> the
> > posts that sit on bottom. I'll try these and sound like great advice to
> stop
> > future cracks in bottom. . ( No cracks seen on bottom after firing yet)
.
> > But I don't see a fix or reason for this "Normal" problem with the lid.
> In
> > my opinion, it should be built to avoid this problem . I realize the
temp
> > differences between it and electric but my old cone 6 electric only has
a
> > few small cracks in bottom after MANY years and none in top. It is
nowhere
> > near as thick of brick construction as the gas kiln..
> > Any thoughts on this "Normal" problem and why it's "Normalness" can't be
> > designed out?!
> > The "They get hotter" line doesn't fly with me. They are SUPPOSED TO BE
> > designed for that!
> > Regards,
> > Dale Cochoy
> >
Kathi LeSueur on thu 2 oct 03
dalecochoy@PRODIGY.NET wrote:
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Rob Haugen"
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 9:01 AM
>Subject: Re: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
>
><>normal.>>
>
>
>{{I'd like some info from people who have other brands to find out if "normal"
>on theirs.}}
>
>I've owned or fired electic kilns for over 30 years. Mostly Crusaders and Evenheat. I've never had a crack in a lid unless I did something stupid like severely overfire or drop the lid on top of the wall.
>.
>
Kathi
Norman van der Sluys on fri 3 oct 03
My way of thinking on this is that what you have bought is by no means a
Cadillac. It is closer to a Kia. I say this as an owner of an Olympic
kiln. It may be that you have to do some work to tighten that band, but
is should hold things together for quite a while. In the meantime enjoy
your firings and let tomorrow take care of itself. You are not too
likely to have an easy time of getting satisfaction from the company
from what I have seen and heard. On the other hand, you have paid an
electric kiln price for a gas kiln capable of reduction firing. Count
your blessings.
dalecochoy wrote:
>
> I have a new Olympic 2831G which I've fired twice. Once to about cone 04
> and then to cone 10.
> After cool down of second firing, during unloading , I noticed cracks in
> the lid. 4 cracks running radially from the hole just about all the way to
> edge. They were in 3 of the 4 90degree quadrants. One quadrant has two!!
> Two of them go all the way through and I can see them on top.
--
Norman van der Sluys
Benona Pottery
Near the shore of Lake Michigan. We needed the rain, but when combined
with thirty mile an hour winds and 40 degree temperatures it gets old
fast. Of course I'd rather put up with this than a hurricane any day.
And the rain has kept the frost away so far.
dalecochoy on sat 4 oct 03
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman van der Sluys"
To:
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
> My way of thinking on this is that what you have bought is by no means a
> Cadillac. It is closer to a Kia. I say this as an owner of an Olympic
> kiln. It may be that you have to do some work to tighten that band, but
> is should hold things together for quite a while. In the meantime enjoy
> your firings and let tomorrow take care of itself. You are not too
> likely to have an easy time of getting satisfaction from the company
> from what I have seen and heard. On the other hand, you have paid an
> electric kiln price for a gas kiln capable of reduction firing. Count
> your blessings
Norman,
Interesting note, especially the "let tomorrow take care of it's self" part.
Uh-huh!
As far as paying an electric kiln price for a gas kiln that does
reduction...
Does a "not Cadilac" mean I should EXPECT a cracked top?? Just wondering?
Well, I have a used electric kiln I bought SEVERAL years back for $400 and
put about $120 into running a new cord to garage, breaker and receptical.
I've used it lots and only replaced a thermocouple and had a board repaired
once for about $40.
The gas kiln...
Lets see,
I think it was about $1,400 give or take some.
$900 worth of new shelves and furniture for it. ( also from Olympic)
$900 for the 10X14 deck I built outside for it.
$400 ( on sale) for the 10X14 steel shed I built on the deck.
$400 ( almost wholesale through a friend) for the Selkirk venting.
$175 ( also through a friend) for the manufacture of the vent hood over the
kiln and about $100 in parts and help from a friend to get it all installed
in the ceiling of the shed.
$150 for a friend to run a gasline from house basement ( all parts, no
labor).
Then, I decided I better buy a Fluke pyrometer w/ two thermocouples. about
$300ish.
All before my first firing.
my point....
You BETTER believe I'm pissed off because the top cracked the second firing
( first cone 10 firing)!!!
The hell with tomorrow taking care of it's self.... I want satisfaction
NOW!!
Regards,
Dale Cochoy
Michael Wendt on sun 5 oct 03
Dale,
I have run my own versions of the OLG31G for 30 years and found my lids
always crack right away. This has never been a problem because I tighten the
bands and take up the looseness. Not a single collapse in 30 years!
The reason they crack is the huge temperature difference between the
center of the lid and the edge. Unlike an electric kiln lid which sees a
very uniform heating profile over its whole surface, the hot gasses exit
through the center of the lid creating a very hot middle which expands more
than the cooler outer edge and forces the edges to crack radially. Add to
that the heat build up under the damper and you see why it must happen. No
way around it.
Arch kilns take up this expansion by humping upward but a flat lid
cannot do this. If the cracks bother you for any reason other than cosmetic
appeal, get rid of the Olympic and buy an arch top box style kiln.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
wendtpot@lewiston.com
Ilene Mahler on sun 5 oct 03
see or e-mail ann semple in Victoria to see if there is any satisfaction to
be gotten...Ilenein Conn
----- Original Message -----
From: "dalecochoy"
To:
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman van der Sluys"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 7:32 PM
> Subject: Re: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
>
>
> > My way of thinking on this is that what you have bought is by no means a
> > Cadillac. It is closer to a Kia. I say this as an owner of an Olympic
> > kiln. It may be that you have to do some work to tighten that band, but
> > is should hold things together for quite a while. In the meantime enjoy
> > your firings and let tomorrow take care of itself. You are not too
> > likely to have an easy time of getting satisfaction from the company
> > from what I have seen and heard. On the other hand, you have paid an
> > electric kiln price for a gas kiln capable of reduction firing. Count
> > your blessings
>
> Norman,
> Interesting note, especially the "let tomorrow take care of it's self"
part.
> Uh-huh!
> As far as paying an electric kiln price for a gas kiln that does
> reduction...
> Does a "not Cadilac" mean I should EXPECT a cracked top?? Just wondering?
> Well, I have a used electric kiln I bought SEVERAL years back for $400 and
> put about $120 into running a new cord to garage, breaker and receptical.
> I've used it lots and only replaced a thermocouple and had a board
repaired
> once for about $40.
>
> The gas kiln...
> Lets see,
> I think it was about $1,400 give or take some.
> $900 worth of new shelves and furniture for it. ( also from Olympic)
> $900 for the 10X14 deck I built outside for it.
> $400 ( on sale) for the 10X14 steel shed I built on the deck.
> $400 ( almost wholesale through a friend) for the Selkirk venting.
> $175 ( also through a friend) for the manufacture of the vent hood over
the
> kiln and about $100 in parts and help from a friend to get it all
installed
> in the ceiling of the shed.
> $150 for a friend to run a gasline from house basement ( all parts, no
> labor).
> Then, I decided I better buy a Fluke pyrometer w/ two thermocouples. about
> $300ish.
> All before my first firing.
>
> my point....
>
> You BETTER believe I'm pissed off because the top cracked the second
firing
> ( first cone 10 firing)!!!
> The hell with tomorrow taking care of it's self.... I want satisfaction
> NOW!!
> Regards,
> Dale Cochoy
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Norman van der Sluys on sun 5 oct 03
dalecochoy wrote:
>
>
> Well, I have a used electric kiln I bought SEVERAL years back for $400 and
> put about $120 into running a new cord to garage, breaker and receptical.
> I've used it lots and only replaced a thermocouple and had a board repaired
> once for about $40.
>
Now you're comparing apples and oranges. Your used electric kiln sounds
like a good buy. Of course the installation of an electric is a lot
simpler and less costly than a gas kiln.
Have you been firing ^10 oxidation with that electric kiln?
> The gas kiln...
> Lets see,
> I think it was about $1,400 give or take some.
> $900 worth of new shelves and furniture for it. ( also from Olympic)
> $900 for the 10X14 deck I built outside for it.
> $400 ( on sale) for the 10X14 steel shed I built on the deck.
> $400 ( almost wholesale through a friend) for the Selkirk venting.
> $175 ( also through a friend) for the manufacture of the vent hood over the
> kiln and about $100 in parts and help from a friend to get it all installed
> in the ceiling of the shed.
> $150 for a friend to run a gasline from house basement ( all parts, no
> labor).
> Then, I decided I better buy a Fluke pyrometer w/ two thermocouples. about
> $300ish.
Most of this expense is not lost by any means. You can certainly use
that with another kiln of comparable size, and this is supposing your
Olympic is a total write-off, which I believe it is not.
> my point....
>
> You BETTER believe I'm pissed off because the top cracked the second firing
> ( first cone 10 firing)!!!
> The hell with tomorrow taking care of it's self.... I want satisfaction
> NOW!!
I certainly understand your frustration and disappointment, but I would
not expect the same amount of deterioration in subsequent firings,
especially if you fire carefully. For example, the nature of small
updraft kilns like this is to fire quite unevenly unless carefully
loaded. Among other things this could mean that the top of the kiln
went a bit higher than "cone 10" would suggest. One thing these
Olympics cannot be faulted on is the capability of reaching high
temperatures.
My Olympic is the Raku model so I can not help you with the specifics of
tightening that top band, but there must be a way to do so - might
involve some disassembly and alteration. The bands will hold that top
together. A skim cote of kiln cement on the outside surface of the top
will seal the cracks that go all the way through.
The reason I said "let tomorrow take care of itself" is because life is
too short to get upset about a battle you have little chance of
winning. I have visited the Olympic factory and am aware of the culture
of the place, including the hiring of inexperienced labor at low wages
and showing little or no respect for their endeavors. That said, I am
quite satisfied with my kiln, which I fire to ^6/7 reduction. I have
some cracks on the bottom of the kiln, but none on the top. I also
coated it with ITC 100, which may have a bearing on things. By making
repairs and alterations yourself you will end up with a better kiln than
Olympic would provide you.
Next time you are in the market for a kiln like that, I would suggest
you look for another electric the same size and cut a vent hole in the
top and holes for the burner in the bottom. Use the Olympic's burner
system and stand, and your existing installation. Coat it with ITC100
and you will be back in business for a fraction of the cost of a
lawsuit.
Good luck and happy firing.
--
Norman van der Sluys
Benona Pottery
Near the shore of Lake Michigan where we finally got that frost this
morning and the sumac is starting to turn.
Charles Moore on sun 5 oct 03
Michael and Olympians,
I have been following this thread because I have recently started using an
Olympic updraft. I have not used it much yet and only fire to ^6. Before I
began using the Olympic, I posted a notice for help on Clayart, and Paul
Vernier answered most helpfully. To keep the temperature even from top to
bottom, Paul advised placing a shelf about an inch and a half below the hole
in the lid. I wonder if this might have prevented the cracks in the lid in
question.
In addition, Paul advised using ITC, which I have done. So far, no cracks.
But I'll keep you posted since I will be firing the Olympic repeatedly in
October-November in preparation for an open studio.
By the way, Michael, I thank you for the information in your Clayart post
(below). I'll be less nervous if I spot the cracks.
Charles
Sacramento
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wendt"
To:
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 11:51 AM
Subject: Re: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
> Dale,
> I have run my own versions of the OLG31G for 30 years and found my
lids
> always crack right away. This has never been a problem because I tighten
the
> bands and take up the looseness. Not a single collapse in 30 years!
> The reason they crack is the huge temperature difference between the
> center of the lid and the edge. Unlike an electric kiln lid which sees a
> very uniform heating profile over its whole surface, the hot gasses exit
> through the center of the lid creating a very hot middle which expands
more
> than the cooler outer edge and forces the edges to crack radially. Add to
> that the heat build up under the damper and you see why it must happen. No
> way around it.
> Arch kilns take up this expansion by humping upward but a flat lid
> cannot do this. If the cracks bother you for any reason other than
cosmetic
> appeal, get rid of the Olympic and buy an arch top box style kiln.
> Regards,
> Michael Wendt
> wendtpot@lewiston.com
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
dalecochoy on mon 6 oct 03
Charles,
Paul gave me a lot of help also over the past couple months along with about
4 other people off the list.
You may never have the cracking problem at cone 6, in fact, I'd doubt it.
The problem was not the baffle shelf. I used that my first firing., however,
olympic no longer recommends it BTW. They recommend NO baffle shelf, and
about 3" under first shelf, and about 1" between all sheves. No wall
touching or butting shelves. I'm about to try my third setup now. I could
not get temp with a baffle to close to lid ( it was closer than 1 1/2" , I
took advice wrongly on that) . Next firing, no baffle as per Olympic. With
no baffle it was hard to keep bottom temp up, soooo I think I'll now try a
1/2 shelf ( or smaller round) at the "people recommended" 1 1/2" . I think
this will give me the happy medium between the two. I did get a better
response with the shelves at 1" apart and each set turned 90 degrees to the
one above and below. Nothing touching walls. 4" at bottom.
Olympic is severily lacking in instructions in paperwork or web site. I'd
think they'd get tired of having people pissed off and calling to find out
what to do to get the thing to fire even top -to-bottom. . I think I'd
publish it with new kilns and on WWW and upgrade it as they get new
feedback.
It's kinda like dealing with US Customs agents...they never seem to give you
info about something they know you'll have a problem with unless you should
happen to ask the specific question that lets them give you the info. It's
like they hold back info on purpose just to see if you will figure it out!
Except, in the customs case, I think laziness has a lot to do with it!
Charles, you might be less nervous if you spot the cracks , but.....I'll bet
you'll still be pissed! :>)
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Moore" Subject: Re: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
> Michael and Olympians,
>
> I have been following this thread because I have recently started using an
> Olympic updraft. I have not used it much yet and only fire to ^6. Before
I
> began using the Olympic, I posted a notice for help on Clayart, and Paul
> Vernier answered most helpfully. To keep the temperature even from top to
> bottom, Paul advised placing a shelf about an inch and a half below the
hole
> in the lid. I wonder if this might have prevented the cracks in the lid
in
> question.
>
> In addition, Paul advised using ITC, which I have done. So far, no
cracks.
> But I'll keep you posted since I will be firing the Olympic repeatedly in
> October-November in preparation for an open studio.
>
> By the way, Michael, I thank you for the information in your Clayart post
> (below). I'll be less nervous if I spot the cracks.
>
> Charles
> Sacramento
Randy McCall on mon 6 oct 03
Dale I fire only to Cone 6 and have cracks in the lid. Looks like everyone
does that has the Olympic. Sounds like spraying the lid with ITC is a good
idea. Michael Wendt knows what he is talking about. Looks like they
would have done that from the factory to try to prevent the cracks and let
folks know about it. I'm sure it wouldn't have added that much more to the
cost of the kiln. I would have gladly paid the difference. Apparently the
owner of Olympic doesn't care about the PR. I think I have tried every way
to fire in terms of adjusting the shelves and using the baffles at different
heights. The only way I was able to get the bottom and top to even come
close was by using small fire bricks to deflect the flame flowing up the
sides as Michael suggested. I just put them on the lower shelf over each
burner and leaned them on the side of the kiln so they formed an upside down
V shape. Even with that I got some real hot spots but that load was better
than what I had been getting. I also pushed all my shelves out touching the
sides of the kiln. I think next time I will bring them in about 1/2 and
leave the diversion bricks as above. Also the top baffle was about 1 inch
from the top. I also want to raise my kiln off the burners about 1/4 inch
to see how that works. Mel also recommends from his book to pack the top
tighter than then bottom when you are getting a colder than normal bottom.
(At least that is what I understood him to say in the book.) If you find a
better config let me know.
Maybe once we can figure it out we can help everyone else. Too bad we have
to waste hundreds of tdollars on such a product. Probably need to build our
own next time.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dalecochoy"
To:
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
> Charles,
> Paul gave me a lot of help also over the past couple months along with
> about
> 4 other people off the list.
> You may never have the cracking problem at cone 6, in fact, I'd doubt it.
> The problem was not the baffle shelf. I used that my first firing.,
> however,
> olympic no longer recommends it BTW. They recommend NO baffle shelf, and
> about 3" under first shelf, and about 1" between all sheves. No wall
> touching or butting shelves. I'm about to try my third setup now. I could
> not get temp with a baffle to close to lid ( it was closer than 1 1/2" , I
> took advice wrongly on that) . Next firing, no baffle as per Olympic. With
> no baffle it was hard to keep bottom temp up, soooo I think I'll now try a
> 1/2 shelf ( or smaller round) at the "people recommended" 1 1/2" . I think
> this will give me the happy medium between the two. I did get a better
> response with the shelves at 1" apart and each set turned 90 degrees to
> the
> one above and below. Nothing touching walls. 4" at bottom.
> Olympic is severily lacking in instructions in paperwork or web site. I'd
> think they'd get tired of having people pissed off and calling to find out
> what to do to get the thing to fire even top -to-bottom. . I think I'd
> publish it with new kilns and on WWW and upgrade it as they get new
> feedback.
> It's kinda like dealing with US Customs agents...they never seem to give
> you
> info about something they know you'll have a problem with unless you
> should
> happen to ask the specific question that lets them give you the info. It's
> like they hold back info on purpose just to see if you will figure it out!
> Except, in the customs case, I think laziness has a lot to do with it!
>
> Charles, you might be less nervous if you spot the cracks , but.....I'll
> bet
> you'll still be pissed! :>)
> Dale
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Moore" Subject: Re: Olympic 2831G gas kiln lid cracks
>
>
> > Michael and Olympians,
> >
> > I have been following this thread because I have recently started using
> > an
> > Olympic updraft. I have not used it much yet and only fire to ^6.
> > Before
> I
> > began using the Olympic, I posted a notice for help on Clayart, and Paul
> > Vernier answered most helpfully. To keep the temperature even from top
> > to
> > bottom, Paul advised placing a shelf about an inch and a half below the
> hole
> > in the lid. I wonder if this might have prevented the cracks in the lid
> in
> > question.
> >
> > In addition, Paul advised using ITC, which I have done. So far, no
> cracks.
> > But I'll keep you posted since I will be firing the Olympic repeatedly
> > in
> > October-November in preparation for an open studio.
> >
> > By the way, Michael, I thank you for the information in your Clayart
> > post
> > (below). I'll be less nervous if I spot the cracks.
> >
> > Charles
> > Sacramento
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
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>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
will hershey on tue 7 oct 03
On Monday, October 6, 2003, at 12:53 PM, dalecochoy wrote:
> "Next firing, no baffle as per Olympic. With
> no baffle it was hard to keep bottom temp up, soooo I think I'll now
> try a
> 1/2 shelf ( or smaller round) at the "people recommended" 1 1/2" . I
> think
> this will give me the happy medium between the two."
Dale - try building a little shelf over 2 of the 4 burners, using
firebrick and, or some broken shelving. This was recommended to me by
one of the members, and my last several firings have been very even.
ps: I have cracks as well. Haven't done anything about them so far, but
am considering trying ITC.
Maybe Olympic should consider pre-coating them as an option.....
Will
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