mel jacobson on thu 2 oct 03
many of you have wonderful techniques for
large throwing.
please send us your ideas.
i have it started, but i need
help with this one.
there are so many good solutions.
mel
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
John K Dellow on fri 3 oct 03
Mel what you have posted makes sense.
I was taught to split the lumps into roughly 60%,40%.
I would get the student to start with the largest lump which is comfit
ably centered
by the individual. Then smooth the top ,scrap off the slip with a rib
and place a
lump about 75% of the original on top and center that.
Open up with the left thumb ,bracing that hand with the right. This
gives a triangle.
The first upwards movement is best done with the heal of the left hand
outside
and the right hand inside.
Use clay as soft as the student can manage.
This ease up on the left in a cooling tower type shape will enable quite
soft clay to stand up.
At 55 and at 5ft.9in. tall I can still easily center 30Kg to throw a
planter.
mel jacobson wrote:
> many of you have wonderful techniques for
> large throwing.
> please send us your ideas.
> i have it started, but i need
> help with this one.
> there are so many good solutions.
> mel
> From:
> Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
> web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
> or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
> new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
--
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
http://digitalfire.com/education/people/dellow/
John K Dellow on fri 3 oct 03
Mal I maust try that for pedistals. I am just getting back into them.
I use 12Kg for a 24 in pedistal using a shrinkage ruler, but the big one
I do in one piece is 36 in tall and can be a strane finnishing the lower
portion and
leaving the centre section thick enough to get the full height.
John
You can see one in my web page.
Malcolm Schosha wrote:
>Mel,
>
>The guy I learned throwing with was well into his sixties when I knew
>him, and he was getting a fair amount of pain in his left shoulder.
>So when he threw large tall pieces (for him anything 50cm or over),
>he use to center the clay very high and throw a large cone off the
>top. It would be thick (about 3/4") at the narrow base and fairly
>thin at the wide top. He cut the cone off with a pin and put it
>aside.
>
>After that he threw the bottom two-thirds of the pot with the
>remaining clay. He put a little slip around the top; and put the cone
>on top, the narrow part up. Then he finneshed throwing the upper part
>of the pot.
>
>He got great results this way and saved a lot of strain on his left
>(inside) arm. But the method is not easy. I tried it any number of
>times and never got any thing but a complet mess. I guess it just
>needs a lot of patience to get it right.
>
>The big advantage of this, over throwing in two pieces and joining
>them, is that there is absolutly no chance that the sections will
>seperate at a later stage.
>
>Malcolm Schosha
>Brooklyn, NY
>.......................................
>
>
>--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, mel jacobson wrote:
>
>
>>many of you have wonderful techniques for
>>large throwing.
>>please send us your ideas.
>>i have it started, but i need
>>help with this one.
>>there are so many good solutions.
>>mel
>>From:
>>Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
>>web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
>>or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
>>new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>______________________________________________________________________
>________
>
>
>>Send postings to clayart@l...
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your
>>
>>
>subscription
>
>
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
>>
>>
>melpots@p...
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
--
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
http://digitalfire.com/education/people/dellow/
Brian O'Neill on fri 3 oct 03
Mel, et al,
I use the section assembly technique. I have two wheels; throw the base
on one and the remaining sections on the other. I use a weed burner to
firm up the sections. The trick here is to pay attention to how much you
are drying the outside of the cylinder. I primarily use a fairly grogged
clay body which is pretty forgiving when re-wetting the outside of the
pot once I begin shaping. I have thrown some large (27h x 24w)
terracotta (fine clay) planters with equally good results.
The diameter and shape (cylindrical or more spherical) of the piece,
determines the amount of clay I wedge for each section. I use calipers
to match the diameters of the base section and the joining section;
score both lips but only slip the base; remove the section from the
wheel while on the bat (I use masonite bats); take a deep breath, take a
solid stance and flip the section upside down; then place it on the
base. The first time you do this is a very big thrill! (Caveat #1: make
sure you have the section firmly secured to the bat; I trimmed all the
excess clay from the bottom once and when I flipped it over, it just
kept going, right onto the floor! Instant "a r t" right?;-)
For joining the sections, I've tried trimming the lip of the base and
adjoining section both flat and angled. Both adhere fine, but I do spend
some time ribbing both the inside and outside of the join. Once I have
the sections joined, I re-wet the added cylinder, bring it back on
center and even out the wall. Then I begin shaping with a wooden rib on
the inside and a flexible metal rib on the outside. Of course each pot
has it's own personality, but I've been able to throw rather large
(three sectioned) spherical pots with quite thin walls.
But what I REALLY want to know...is how do you join a big fat coil to a
skinny little rim! I really want to try the coil and throw technique but
have never seen this done.
Caviat #2: anyone thinking of going for "big ones"--be prepared to
invest in a clay mixer. Your clay consumption increases proportionally!
Happy mucking about,
Brian
mel jacobson wrote:
>
> many of you have wonderful techniques for
> large throwing.
> please send us your ideas.
> i have it started, but i need
> help with this one.
> there are so many good solutions.
> mel
> From:
> Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
> web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
> or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
> new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Lee Love on fri 3 oct 03
I use this technique, because it imparts some liveliness to the pots:
I throw the base. Right now, I my wheelhead, I have the base of a
pot that I threw with 5 kilograms of clay that I threw last night. It
looks like a bowl. I wetted and covered the exposed rim with a strip of
plastic. You can either set the base aside, or use a dryer, stripper or
torch to dry the base.
Now, I'll go out and add thick coils and throw the upper half of the
pot, about as thick as the circle made by touching the index finger to my
thumb. You add the coil and then throw the rest of the pot. When you
use these thick coils, you don't have to use many, maybe two or three.
This one of the traditional ways large pots are thrown on low
momentum wheels.
Lee In Mashiko
Malcolm Schosha on fri 3 oct 03
Mel,
The guy I learned throwing with was well into his sixties when I knew
him, and he was getting a fair amount of pain in his left shoulder.
So when he threw large tall pieces (for him anything 50cm or over),
he use to center the clay very high and throw a large cone off the
top. It would be thick (about 3/4") at the narrow base and fairly
thin at the wide top. He cut the cone off with a pin and put it
aside.
After that he threw the bottom two-thirds of the pot with the
remaining clay. He put a little slip around the top; and put the cone
on top, the narrow part up. Then he finneshed throwing the upper part
of the pot.
He got great results this way and saved a lot of strain on his left
(inside) arm. But the method is not easy. I tried it any number of
times and never got any thing but a complet mess. I guess it just
needs a lot of patience to get it right.
The big advantage of this, over throwing in two pieces and joining
them, is that there is absolutly no chance that the sections will
seperate at a later stage.
Malcolm Schosha
Brooklyn, NY
.......................................
--- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, mel jacobson wrote:
> many of you have wonderful techniques for
> large throwing.
> please send us your ideas.
> i have it started, but i need
> help with this one.
> there are so many good solutions.
> mel
> From:
> Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
> web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
> or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
> new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
________
> Send postings to clayart@l...
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@p...
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