Zsuzsa Koltay on tue 7 oct 03
I have periodically seen references on Clayart to kilns kept under
carports. I am wondering whether this is a workable approach in upstate NY
where the winters can be quite severe. My carport has two walls and I
could figure out a way to make absolutely sure the kiln would not get
rained or snowed on. However, would condensation caused by temperature
differences cause a problem or shorten the life of an electric kiln? Could
I use a computerized control under these circumstances? Would I still have
to worry about venting? Would a certain kind of kiln be a better choice
for these conditions than others (e.g. would Axner's ITC coating make a
difference?)
Thanks in advance,
Zsuzsa
wayneinkeywest on tue 7 oct 03
Zsuzsa:
I live in South Florida. I do not have to contend with snow, or hail, or
ice
or any of the other nasties associated with winter weather. ( I do at the
house in central VT, where the workspace is the garage, and enclosed.)
In FL I _do_ have to contend with 30 mph rains blowing sideways, hurricanes
and barometric pressures on an approaching storm that drop faster than
my lower jaw at a wet t-shirt contest :>)
My workspace here is an open carport. Wood frame roof, metal panels, 4
posts.
What someone else might call a "pole barn". Rain blows in, gets the
(electric) kiln wet, and I wait until it dries before turning it back on.
I've
taken to putting a big plastic bag (an industrial compactor bag) over it
when it's not being used. The kiln sitter has never been affected, the
laptop that lives out there for my notes is less happy about it, but lives
in plastic as well, as does my wheel. The rain helps clean the concrete
floor .
Were the carport enclosed, I would worry about venting. I don't. I have
an oscillating fan mounted above it, and a 20 inch box fan going when I feel
the need, and when I'm firing, to help disperse the heat that it generates.
Being "plein air" (open air), I didn't worry about venting the area when I
ran
the gas raku kiln (Puff) either.
In VT, it's a whole different story. I vent the kiln into the chimney, same
as
the woodstove (inspector? What inspector?). Since I don't run both at once(
no need to), and the stove is
airtight, I don't worry about fumes and such there either. I do worry about
the
clay freezing, so I bought one of those birdbath heaters, and stuck it under
the
clay. End of problem. Mice occasionally get up into the wiring and nest,
so I
always check before I turn it on. Don't need any fried critters, thank you.
If you are not planning on working out there in the winter, don't worry
about it.
Just cover the kiln, and the 'lectronics, and enjoy your "long winter's nap"
You might shovel the snow away from it before spring melt, and maybe put the
kiln on
bricks to allow moisture underneath to evaporate. The temperature
differences
usually do not occur that rapidly as to cause a problem.
Best,
Wayne in Key West
> I have periodically seen references on Clayart to kilns kept under
> carports. I am wondering whether this is a workable approach in upstate
NY
> where the winters can be quite severe. My carport has two walls and I
> could figure out a way to make absolutely sure the kiln would not get
> rained or snowed on. However, would condensation caused by temperature
> differences cause a problem or shorten the life of an electric kiln?
Could
> I use a computerized control under these circumstances? Would I still
have
> to worry about venting? Would a certain kind of kiln be a better choice
> for these conditions than others (e.g. would Axner's ITC coating make a
> difference?)
william schran on tue 7 oct 03
Zsuzsa wrote: >I have periodically seen references on Clayart to
kilns kept under
carports. I am wondering whether this is a workable approach in upstate NY
where the winters can be quite severe.<
We have three of our electric kilns in a non-climate controlled shed
at school. Two other kilns are in a room inside the building where
there is some climate control. I think the biggest difference is
moisture present in the air. In the outdoor shed, the kilns develop
more rust and connections seem to corrode sooner. I have changed out
all electrical connections and sheet metal screws to stainless steel
which has made a big change in the degredation of the parts.
I personally would suggest having a manually operated kiln in an
outdoor enclosure. There are upper and lower temperature limits at
which programmable controllers may not function properly.
Bill
Snail Scott on wed 8 oct 03
At 12:14 PM 10/7/03 -0400, you wrote:
>However, would condensation caused by temperature
>differences cause a problem or shorten the life of an electric kiln? Could
>I use a computerized control under these circumstances?
Even here in the desert, kilns that live outdoors
corrode more quickly than indoor kilns. The brick
doesn't seem much affected, but the wiring connnections
go bad quicker, and the mild-steel components get
rusty. I'd hesitate before subjecting a computerized
controller to such conditions.
-Snail
Carol Tripp on sat 11 oct 03
I second Bill's comments. But there is another option; take the controller
off during the worst part of the winter weather. You will have to plan
firings by the season. I take my controller off during the highest heat and
humidity, June through Sept. Be very gentle with the controller and stow it
safely where it can't be bumped.
I also cover my kiln with a car cover. It's way too big and that allows
good air circulation about the kiln. Hasn't stopped the corrosion, but
short of keeping the kiln in the house beside the bicycles in the front
hall...
Best regards,
Carol
Dubai, UAE
>
>Zsuzsa wrote: >I have periodically seen references on Clayart to
>kilns kept under
>carports. I am wondering whether this is a workable approach in upstate NY
>where the winters can be quite severe.<
Bill replied:
>We have three of our electric kilns in a non-climate controlled shed
>at school. Two other kilns are in a room inside the building where
>there is some climate control. I think the biggest difference is
>moisture present in the air. In the outdoor shed, the kilns develop
>more rust and connections seem to corrode sooner. I have changed out
>all electrical connections and sheet metal screws to stainless steel
>which has made a big change in the degredation of the parts.
>I personally would suggest having a manually operated kiln in an
>outdoor enclosure. There are upper and lower temperature limits at
>which programmable controllers may not function properly.
>
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