Connie Woodward on wed 29 oct 03
I need some repair advice....
I fire a 29" diameter kiln that was made from an old electric converted to
propane gas with the use of a Summmit Kilns burner assembly. I love it, I've
been firing it for several years now. The problem is that it is starting to
crumble around the 6" square hole I cut in the lid for the flue. Some cracks
and little crumbles.
what would be the best way to fix this? can I use the saribond stuff and
just glue the cracks and crumbles with that? the metal band around the lid
seems to be tight and it shows no signs of damage except for around where I
cut the flue hole. If it would be helpful, I can take a photo of the lid and
post it on my web site so you all can see the amount of cracking I'm talking
about.
or should I build a new lid? how would I do that? I would love to have a
thicker lid - right now I stack two layers of IFB on the top of the lid when
I fire (really seems to help even out the temp)
I saw in the Brackers catalog that I could order a whole new lid, but it is
$288 and then I would have to cut another flue hole in the new lid.
ideas?
thanks,
Connie
======================================================================
Connie Woodward Karattopp Pottery www.karattopp.com
Navasota, TX 713-256-5907
Snail Scott on wed 29 oct 03
At 09:49 AM 10/29/03 -0600, you wrote:
>I fire a 29" diameter kiln that was made from an old electric converted to
>propane...starting to
>crumble around the 6" square hole I cut in the lid for the flue...right
now I stack two layers of IFB on the top of the lid when
>I fire...
Don't have any great ideas for fixing the present
damage, but its progress might be slowed by using
fiberboard in lieu of the IFB's.
-Snail
Logan Oplinger on thu 30 oct 03
On Wed, 29 Oct 2003 09:49:35 -0600, Connie Woodward
wrote:
>...I fire a 29" diameter kiln that was made from an old electric converted
>to propane gas with the use of a Summmit Kilns burner assembly. I love it,
>I've been firing it for several years now. The problem is that it is
>starting to crumble around the 6" square hole I cut in the lid for the
>flue. Some cracks and little crumbles.
>
>what would be the best way to fix this? can I use the saribond stuff and
>just glue the cracks and crumbles with that? the metal band around the lid
>seems to be tight and it shows no signs of damage except for around where I
>cut the flue hole....
>ideas?
>thanks,
>Connie
Hello Connie,
The sairbond is a good idea. But first, I would try to make the brick
around the flue hole stronger by applying rigidizer to the surfaces that
are crumbling. This will soak into the brick and help stabilize it once it
hardens, and provide a better foundation for the sairbond After the
rigidizer has dried, apply the sairbond to the cut surface.
Rigidizer is a product used to coat ceramic fiber to make it stronger and
prevent abrasion. Many pottery suppliers will have this available. It
comes in pint, quart, gallon, etc. quantities.
One note, even after you have made your repair, at some later date you may
notice continued cracking. A square opening cut into IFB will be more
prone to fatigue cracking and failure than a round opening. A round
opening will distribute the stress forces from being heated more evenly.
Good luck,
Logan Oplinger
Another Pacific Island
wayneinkeywest on thu 30 oct 03
What about using that ITC product meant for fixing cracks and the like.
Couldn't it be used? ITC certainly slows down the degradation of elements
and brick and shelves.
Heck, I'm tempted to smear it all over myself!
Wayne Seidl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Snail Scott"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2003 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: best way to fix my lid
> At 09:49 AM 10/29/03 -0600, you wrote:
> >I fire a 29" diameter kiln that was made from an old electric converted
to
> >propane...starting to
> >crumble around the 6" square hole I cut in the lid for the flue...right
> now I stack two layers of IFB on the top of the lid when
> >I fire...
>
>
> Don't have any great ideas for fixing the present
> damage, but its progress might be slowed by using
> fiberboard in lieu of the IFB's.
>
> -Snail
>
>
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