jeremy Kaiser on sat 1 nov 03
Does any one have tips on making stone ware glazes easier to air brush on, through like a regular paache air brush? Any sort of advice would really help
Jeremy kaiser
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Earl Krueger on sat 1 nov 03
On Saturday, November 1, 2003, at 01:57 PM, jeremy Kaiser wrote:
> Does any one have tips on making stone ware glazes easier to air brush
Jeremy,
I found that once I ran the glaze through a 100 mesh sieve I had no
problems.
Could you give us a little more detail as to what type of problems
you're having? Is the nozzle plugging up? Is the gun sputtering? Is
the spray going on uneven or running? This kind of info will help you
get better answers.
Thanks...
Earl...
Bothell, WA, USA
Cat Yassin on sun 2 nov 03
In a message dated 11/2/2003 7:39:53 PM Central Standard Time,
the_crazy_potter@YAHOO.COM writes:
> Mainly it is pluggin up or not even actually spraying, i couldn't even
> spray a simple raku glaze on without the air causing the glaze in the color cup
> attached to spray out, nice effect in all reality, but not what i was looking
> for. Does this help matters any?
>
Jeremy, I use a central pneumatic mini detail gun from harbor freight for
airbrushing underglazes and I rarely have any problems. It has a 4 oz cup and an
operating pressure of 28-36 psi. Of course the underglazes are very fine and
diluted so they go through very nicely. Price of this little gun? $12! But for
my airbrushing stoneware glazes I just use something similar to this gun but
has a larger cup attachment around a 12 oz size. I can't remember the name of
his air gun/air brush but I bought it at a pottery supply store and it was
under $20. I never have any problems with clogging or sporadic spraying, its
pretty consistent and I don't have to refill the glaze container very often. Could
be you just need a more industrial type airbrush for the type of glaze you
are using. I would definitely use a very fine mesh to sieve your glazes and
check the psi you are using to make sure it is sufficient.
-Cat Yassin
San Antonio
iandol on sun 2 nov 03
Dear Jeremy Kaiser,=20
Not sure what you mean by a "Regular Paasch" Air Brush, but presuming =
that it is one of the top feed variety with a small container then I =
think you will need to make sure your pigment will pass through a 200 =
mesh sieve. I would imagine that the abrasive nature of glaze materials =
will cause a lot of wear on the needle.
One big problem with spraying ceramic materials (I spray stains on =
unfired stoneware glazes)is the density of the solids and the way they =
can settle in the vehicle fluid. This leads to clogging You need to do a =
lot of testing to find a good compromise between the volume of fluid and =
solid. It may pay to incorporate a humectant such as Glycerine and an =
adhesive such as Gum Trag or Arabic if you are using water as the =
vehicle.
As is usual in this sort of situation, you have to paddle your own canoe =
so it becomes a case of test, test, test. But with perseverance it is =
possible to get some wonderful effects with commercial stains if you are =
doing graphic images.
There are some useful tips to be had about the employment of this tool =
in the German Mag, "Airbrush, Art plus Action"
Have fun.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
jeremy Kaiser on sun 2 nov 03
Mainly it is pluggin up or not even actually spraying, i couldn't even spray a simple raku glaze on without the air causing the glaze in the color cup attached to spray out, nice effect in all reality, but not what i was looking for. Does this help matters any?
Earl Krueger wrote:On Saturday, November 1, 2003, at 01:57 PM, jeremy Kaiser wrote:
> Does any one have tips on making stone ware glazes easier to air brush
Jeremy,
I found that once I ran the glaze through a 100 mesh sieve I had no
problems.
Could you give us a little more detail as to what type of problems
you're having? Is the nozzle plugging up? Is the gun sputtering? Is
the spray going on uneven or running? This kind of info will help you
get better answers.
Thanks...
Earl...
Bothell, WA, USA
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