Fredrick Paget on tue 4 nov 03
>Hi,
>I just broke the handle off of my favorite goose bowl by Stephen
>Schiffer (http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/schiffer.htm). I was
>wondering if I could "glue" it back on with my low fire glaze even
>though this is stoneware. It has worked before on my low fire pieces.
>Others have said to just use super glue. Thanks for any suggestions,
>Lisa
We just tried this with a piece in the Tozan firing and it didn't
work. She tried to glue back the foot of a tall vase and hold it in
place with wadding but the vase fell over and off the shelf onto the
floor of the dogi and was a total loss.
Problem is the glaze has no strength while melted and might even be slippery.
You would have to find a way to support the handle in place. I don't
know how you could do that.
Fred, just back from a very good firing of the Mighty Tozan
Noborigama in B.C.,Canada. Beautiful glaze development. It was a
very hot firing. Cone 12 flat and melted.
--
From Fred Paget, Marin County, California, USA
fredrick@well.com
lisa elvington on tue 4 nov 03
Hi,
I just broke the handle off of my favorite goose bowl by Stephen
Schiffer (http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/schiffer.htm). I was
wondering if I could "glue" it back on with my low fire glaze even
though this is stoneware. It has worked before on my low fire pieces.
Others have said to just use super glue. Thanks for any suggestions,
Lisa
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Cat Yassin on wed 5 nov 03
In a message dated 11/4/2003 8:44:33 PM Central Standard Time,
lise1959@YAHOO.COM writes:
> Hi,
> I just broke the handle off of my favorite goose bowl by Stephen
> Schiffer (http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/schiffer.htm). I was
> wondering if I could "glue" it back on with my low fire glaze even
> though this is stoneware. It has worked before on my low fire pieces.
> Others have said to just use super glue. Thanks for any suggestions,
> Lisa
>
Hi Lisa! The only success I have had "gluing with glaze" is on a piece that
the foot has come off or on a horizontal piece where slabs overlap. In these
cases gravity held the broken piece in place while firing merely by the weight
of the upper piece laying on top of it. Keep in mind that your glaze/glue will
melt and if there isn't anything to keep your handle propped up it is likely
to fall off and become a shelf handle. I wouldn't take a chance with firing it
and I think super glue is the way to go. Good luck!
-Cat Yassin
San Antonio
Chris Clyburn on wed 5 nov 03
>Hi,
>I just broke the handle off of my favorite goose bowl by Stephen
>Schiffer (http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/schiffer.htm). I was
>wondering if I could "glue" it back on with my low fire glaze even
>though this is stoneware. It has worked before on my low fire pieces.
>Others have said to just use super glue. Thanks for any suggestions,
>Lisa
I've used glaze mixed with slip in a 50/50 ration before to repair stuff. It
Did work, but it was not as seamless as superglue is but the bond seemed a
_bit_ stronger. The other thing to consider is support while the piece is
being fired, that glaze has got to glue on somhow and it won't hold the
piece together while it is fired and no glue will survive even to a low-fire
temp before the glaze vitrifies and bonds the pieces together.
Glazing can work, but it's not worth the hassle considering the strength of
superglue is not that much weaker when applied properly.
The other option you might want to consider is a two-part epoxy resin, it
sets much slower but has a higher tensile strength compared to superglue.
The only reason to use the glazing method of repair in my opinion would be
if you planned on using the piece in an oven or microwave.
Chris Clyburn
Diane Winters on wed 5 nov 03
Hi Lisa,
I went to Stephen's website showing that goose bowl to see the angle of the
handle. For the reasons other people have already mentioned I don't think
"gluing with glaze" is a good plan.
I do ceramic repair as a little sideline. As for other glues, I would never
use superglue on ceramics (except when dealing with cracks) as you
don't have enough working time to count on getting the broken edges aligned
properly. For vitrified clay you want to glue with two-part epoxy (the
regular, not the 5-minute kind). Ideally you want to use the minumum amount
of glue necessary and let it set up with compression on the glue joint.
Since you can't use a clamp on that piece, you might be able to use largish
rubber bands. There's another method for awkwardly shaped or large pieces,
using the leg of an old pair of panyhose and a pencil (really! I learned
this from a book by a French professional restorer); I can give more details
if you want, but the rubber bands should probably work for your bowl (try
banding it "dry" before gluing to see if the bands pull the handle out of
place - do this very gently to avoid chipping the broken edges).
However, and it's a big however, you shouldn't trust a repaired handle the
same as you did before the break. If this were a pitcher, mug or teapot,
I'd recommend only repairing a handle if you want to keep the piece but
retire it from active duty. In your case that handle seems less essentially
functional, and you could still use the piece as long as you remember to be
careful with it and lift or carry the bowl with hands around the body of the
bowl, not the handle. But glue won't stand up to use in a microwave,
dishwasher or even reallly prolonged soaking in the sink. So you might want
to consider
supporting Stephen Schiffer by buying another.
Good luck with it.
Diane
in Oakland/Berkeley by the Bay where it's turned drizzly and chilly, in the
50's
Lisa wrote:,
>I just broke the handle off of my favorite goose bowl by Stephen
>Schiffer (http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/schiffer.htm). I was
>wondering if I could "glue" it back on with my low fire glaze even
>though this is stoneware. It has worked before on my low fire pieces.
>Others have said to just use super glue. Thanks for any suggestions,
Rick Monteverde on wed 5 nov 03
Good suggestions given re epoxy, and I'd add one more possibility for adding=
strength to a handle in practical usage: make use of a key, like a dowel or=
similar. Bore in both sides of the break(s); it doesn't have to have=
perfect alignment or fit because epoxy is a good gap filler. Leave room so=
it's easy to insert the key, but don't get the walls too thin. 1/8"=
stainless rod might be just right, extending about 1/4" into each side,=
depending on the dimensions of your handle & wall thickness in that area.=
Could also use a ceramic shard of the right dimensions, ground or sanded to=
shape. Pack the holes well with glue, insert the key, and tape or clamp the=
parts together tightly. Leave it still to set up well, and don't try to=
remove the excess glue on the crack line until it's gelled hard or you=
might move the joint and cause some separation.=20
Better shear strength than a simple butt joint.
- RM
Honolulu, HI
Louis Katz on wed 5 nov 03
I used to do this all the time. Glaze pots together. Never had the
glaze give up. You need to work with gravity though.
Look here: http://falcon.tamucc.edu/~lkatz/LK/fused/index.htm
or at just this thumbnail if you are on a slow connection:
http://falcon.tamucc.edu/~lkatz/LK/fused/thz/a.jpg
Louis
Logan Oplinger on fri 7 nov 03
On Tue, 4 Nov 2003 17:51:31 -0800, lisa elvington
wrote:
>Hi,
>I just broke the handle off of my favorite goose bowl by Stephen
>Schiffer (http://www.villagecraftsmen.com/schiffer.htm). I was
>wondering if I could "glue" it back on with my low fire glaze even
>though this is stoneware. It has worked before on my low fire pieces.
>Others have said to just use super glue. Thanks for any suggestions,
>Lisa
Hi Lisa,
As others have mentioned, unless the handle is properly supported, low-fire
glaze will not work. It does not provide good bonding at room temp., or
through the desired firing range. Also, ordinary epoxies or superglues may
not be strong enough, or provide good bond strength at elevated
temperatures.
However, there may be other options re: adhesives, some of which provide
good bonding at room temp. and can be heat cured to provide maximum
strength. Check out the following websites:
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/manufacturing_industry/engineered_a
dhesives/node_GS9ZRNKGJ7be/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_WHG0MWH6QPge/gvel_GVTSZT9
BQQgl/theme_us_adhesivetape_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html
(*** NOTE; THIS IS ALL ONE ADDRESS ***)
http://www.beamar.com/Flexbar/HighTemp%20Adhesives&CemMenu.htm
http://cotronics.com/vo/cotr/
http://www.aremco.com/a2.html
http://www.specialchem4adhesives.com/resources/adhesionguide/selector.aspx?
id=adhesionselector?lr=google
http://www.hottec.com/Bondceram/ceramicindex.html
It may be necessary to contact manufacturers to get recommendations about
your specific need.
Good luck.
Logan Oplinger
Another Pacific Island
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