John Rodgers on sat 8 nov 03
iron...?
Sorry, I flatly disagree. Just plain old hard experience says otherwise.
Old timey skillets were these, good quality. I know what I saw, and I
know what I saw that works. You do it your way, I will do what I know
works. Can't get any better than that.
BTW, the fireplace routine was preparation for re-seasnoning after years
of use, and the accumulation of crustiness that was burned on/into the
skillet which could not be removed by reasonable ordinary means, ie,
scrubbies, brillo pads, solvents, etc!! Literally burnt carbon deposits
from years of use. A good hot fireplace with lots of redhot hickory
coals does wonders.
As for water going throught the porostity of cast iron - I'm not talking
about water pouring through as water through a sieve - cast iron will
"weep" water. I've seen it many times in many places. Granted, how much
or if at all depends very much on the quality of the casting. In some
applications it would be intolerable, but evidently for iron skillets,
even good quality iron skillets, some porosity seems to be acceptable,
and is addressed by the "Seasoning" treatment.
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET wrote:
>Hi John,
>
>
>I do not know what sort of 'pans' you have had experience
>with, whose porosity is as you describe...
>
>But it cannot be a characteristic of and quality in Cast
>iron Pans, Skillets or the like, nor would be the case
>unless made by some entirely incompetant factory, 'chineese'
>cynicism, a 'bad' casting of mostly 'slag' or other.
>
>Water may not be expected to migrate through Cast Iron,
>'seasoned' or not...
>
>I know there are many crappy excuses for Cast iron Skillets
>out there, and my advise ( yes, as distinct from 'advice')
>is to throw them away, and obtain a respectable version,
>which will likely be American and about 80 years old or
>more.
>
>The 'best' being about 90 to a hundred years old
>presently...as had the 'rim' on the bottom on it's
>edge...the 'round-edge' is next best. Any mill-marks or
>machine marks, or anything less than a high 'polish' FROM
>the Factory IN the Pan itself signifies crap, junk,
>cynicism, contempt and so on...garbage.
>
>They may also be 'seasoned' with much less trouble than you
>describe.
>
>
>Phil
>Las Vegas
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Rodgers"
>
>
>
>
>>Cast iron pots are porous when new. Water will go through
>>
>>
>them until the
>
>
>>are "Seasoned" by coating with oil and burning it in by
>>
>>
>heating in an
>
>
>>oven. Then you never scrub the skillet or pot, just wipe
>>
>>
>it out,
>
>
>>otherwise it destroys the seal.
>>
>>To reseal a cast iron skillet, I have seen my father put
>>
>>
>my mothers cast
>
>
>>iron ware into the coals of the fireplace, bring them to
>>
>>
>red hot for a
>
>
>>while, then after removing and cooling, scrub them up, add
>>
>>
>new oil, and
>
>
>>again heat them in the oven. Seemed to work every time.
>>
>>Would not an open clay body work this way???
>>
>>John Rodgers
>>Chelsea, AL
>>
>>Brant Palley NMCLAY.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Flameware and beanpots are made by taking a rough red
>>>
>>>
>earthenware like
>
>
>>>Mica red or Fuji (clays we make) and firing them to cone
>>>
>>>
>016 (no glaze!).
>
>
>>>A Beanpot made fired LOW will take the thermal shock of a
>>>
>>>
>direct gas
>
>
>>>flame, or an electric burner with a diffuser pad. The key
>>>
>>>
>to this is that
>
>
>>>the clay body is very open. The pot can be sealed with
>>>
>>>
>some kind of
>
>
>>>vegetable oil to season it.
>>>
>>>Brant Palley
>>>www.nmclay.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>___________________________________________________________
>>
>>
>___________________
>
>
>>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>>
>>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your
>>>
>>>
>subscription
>
>
>>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>>
>>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
>>>
>>>
>at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>____________________________________________________________
>__________________
>
>
>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list or change your
>>
>>
>subscription
>
>
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
>>
>>
>at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on sat 8 nov 03
iron...?
Hi John,
I do not know what sort of 'pans' you have had experience
with, whose porosity is as you describe...
But it cannot be a characteristic of and quality in Cast
iron Pans, Skillets or the like, nor would be the case
unless made by some entirely incompetant factory, 'chineese'
cynicism, a 'bad' casting of mostly 'slag' or other.
Water may not be expected to migrate through Cast Iron,
'seasoned' or not...
I know there are many crappy excuses for Cast iron Skillets
out there, and my advise ( yes, as distinct from 'advice')
is to throw them away, and obtain a respectable version,
which will likely be American and about 80 years old or
more.
The 'best' being about 90 to a hundred years old
presently...as had the 'rim' on the bottom on it's
edge...the 'round-edge' is next best. Any mill-marks or
machine marks, or anything less than a high 'polish' FROM
the Factory IN the Pan itself signifies crap, junk,
cynicism, contempt and so on...garbage.
They may also be 'seasoned' with much less trouble than you
describe.
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Rodgers"
> Cast iron pots are porous when new. Water will go through
them until the
> are "Seasoned" by coating with oil and burning it in by
heating in an
> oven. Then you never scrub the skillet or pot, just wipe
it out,
> otherwise it destroys the seal.
>
> To reseal a cast iron skillet, I have seen my father put
my mothers cast
> iron ware into the coals of the fireplace, bring them to
red hot for a
> while, then after removing and cooling, scrub them up, add
new oil, and
> again heat them in the oven. Seemed to work every time.
>
> Would not an open clay body work this way???
>
> John Rodgers
> Chelsea, AL
>
> Brant Palley NMCLAY.com wrote:
>
> >Flameware and beanpots are made by taking a rough red
earthenware like
> >Mica red or Fuji (clays we make) and firing them to cone
016 (no glaze!).
> >A Beanpot made fired LOW will take the thermal shock of a
direct gas
> >flame, or an electric burner with a diffuser pad. The key
to this is that
> >the clay body is very open. The pot can be sealed with
some kind of
> >vegetable oil to season it.
> >
> >Brant Palley
> >www.nmclay.com
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________
___________________
> >Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> >You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> >settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> >Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
____________________________________________________________
__________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached
at melpots@pclink.com.
| |
|
