pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on tue 11 nov 03
If the little Hinge-Top Oil Cups are damaged or missing, I
know I have a contemporay Catalogue as shows them for sale
in various sizes, and straight or at 90 degrees, but I do
not know where that Catalogue is right now...or what
Catalogue it was. Maybe 'Dodge', or 'Boston Gear' or
I will mention it when it occurs to me!
But an expedient may be to use clear plastic tubeing in a
short stubby length, which often has a memory from being on
and likes to curve anyway if for a 90 degree
application...one may put small pieces with the curve
as one likes for accepting Oil to the bearing journals. One
of the small sizes fits very well into the hole in which a
small size Oil Cup had been.
One can also put as say a short piece of 'pipe Cleaner' (or
two) inside the plastic tubeing as to keep out dusts ( more
or less) and it will not impede the Oil...
Is is possible, that grease forced into these bearings,
especially of the idler Roller, and if in Winter's cold, may
cause a little too much drag...
Too, so far as getting some sort of 'Hoses' to renew the
covering on the Rollers, Industrial Supply places may carry
various kinds of Hoses in straight lengths, which can be
much handier then wrestleing a stiff Hose as wants to remain
curved from it's spool-time...
Too, for economy, the same kind of clear plastic Hose as in
a small size, as may stand in for Oil Cups, comes in much
larger diameters, is resillient, should grip well, and costs
very little. I cannot remember right now what it is called,
what kind of plastic it is...but larger sizes may have
nearly a 1/4 inch wall thickness and be more than two inches
in diameter. These may be softened by warming should one
wish...as too, the prospective Roller may be warmed as well.
One could readily find out the kind of glue this sort of
plastic likes, and or suiyable glue's compatability to
Steel...the glue would likely act as a lubricant as well for
fitting the tube to the Roller...
Polystyrene? Anyway..it is clear and relatively 'soft'...
Hmmm...sorry...just got up and am not all there!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vince Pitelka"
> Taylor -
> This sounds like the standard old Amaco ballmill that is
so common in
> schools. But they are great machines when in proper
order. I have rebuilt
> several of them.
> To fix the rollers, you need to strip them completely of
> rubber. Then you need to take one of the bare shafts to a
good auto supply
> store (not CarQuest, AutoZone or any of those other crappy
> BOYCOTT THEM!! - go to a good Napa store or a local
place), and get some
> fiber-reinforced rubber heater hose that will be a snug
fit over the shafts.
> Get the best quality stuff they have. Cut the hose to
length. Mix a good
> two part epoxy and coat the shaft, and poke some inside
the end of the hose,
> and then slide the hose on over the shaft. Normally we
would use rubber
> cement or contact cement to attach rubber to metal, but
those adhesives need
> to get tacky (partially dry) before the surfaces are
joined, and you would
> not be able to slide the rubber on over the shaft. If you
slide it on when
> the contact cement is still wet, it will not dry properly,
because it needs
> air to cure. Two-part epoxy will cure without air.
> I don't know if you can replace those little hinge-top oil
cups, but you can
> simply apply oil, and then close them off with a little
wad of rubber or
> The ball mill speed does not change with different jar
sizes. Same speed
> for all. I don't think it matters at all whether you use
the same kind of
> grinding media or a mixture of sizes and shapes. And be
sure you do not
> overfill the jars. For good grinding, they should never
be filled more than
> halfway. For this kind of ballmill, you also need to be
> water-suspension slurry. Fill the jar 1/3 with grinding
media, then add
> your shale slurry (50-50 ground shale and water) until the
jar is half full.
> With all the air spaces between the grinding media, the
jar will actually be
> more than 1/4 full of slurry.
> Good luck -
> - Vince
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
> Home - email@example.com
> Office - firstname.lastname@example.org
> 615/597-6801 x111, FAX 615/597-6803
> Send postings to email@example.com
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached