Carole Fox on tue 11 nov 03
Well- I had a blast using washes of oxides and commercial underglazes on =
my "spiritual being" pots. ( I don't know what else to call them!) Their =
dresses and headdresses are pastel colors, muted with a wash of RIO. I =
painted their faces with underglaze, noticing how still my hand could be =
now that I had to give up caffeine!
Anyhow, I love the way they look. But I am wondering if they need an =
exterior finish. I made some samples with clear glaze on them that were =
too shiny and also it seemed that the glaze washed out some of the =
color. I tried to put some paste wax on one of the test tiles , but it =
was near impossible to get in all the crevices of the stamped designs. I =
like the look of the naked underglazed pots but I am concerned about the =
permanence and cleanabilty of the surface.
I don't usually do this type of work, but I really had fun, fun fun. I =
just happened to have some underglazes in the studio from some =
children's classes and felt like experimenting. How do I finish my =
pieces without making them shiny?
Thank you and I really DO appreciate all the clayart advice I"ve been =
getting lately. As my daughter might say, " Clayart is so stupid cool!"
Carole Fox
Elkton, MD
thesilverfox@dol.net
Snail Scott on tue 11 nov 03
At 08:52 AM 11/11/03 -0500, you wrote:
>I tried to put some paste wax on one of the test tiles , but it was near
impossible to get in all the crevices of the stamped designs...
Warm them up. Then the wax will flow and
penetrate, and cool with a satiny sheen.
Buffing will shine the high parts if
desired; handling will also tend to shine
the high points in a rather organic way.
The wax will soak deeply into earthenware,
so use plenty.
-Snail
Susan Setley on tue 11 nov 03
In a message dated 11/11/03 2:16:40 PM, snail@MINDSPRING.COM writes:
<< >I tried to put some paste wax on one of the test tiles , but it was near
impossible to get in all the crevices of the stamped designs...
Warm them up. Then the wax will flow and
penetrate, and cool with a satiny sheen.
Buffing will shine the high parts if
desired; handling will also tend to shine
the high points in a rather organic way. >>
Snail (or Eleanor) -- what wax do you recommend for that?
Snail Scott on wed 12 nov 03
At 03:26 PM 11/11/03 EST, you wrote:
>Snail (or Eleanor) -- what wax do you recommend for that?
I use the wax that they sell for wood furniture
and floors, usually in the paint-and-stain aisle
of hardware stores. Minwax, Trewax, and Johnson's
are all fine. (Johnson's is slightly yellower and
oilier, and will darken the surface a bit more.)
Actually, I've never run into a wood wax that wasn't
OK. Neutral-colored shoe wax (Kiwi) can be good,
too. The wax they sell for sculpture (Renaissance
Wax, etc) is great, but not worth paying more for,
IMHO. Avoid car wax - it needs buffing. Some people
like the liquid floor waxes (Future, etc) though
most of those aren't really waxes at all, but
acrylic coatings. I haven't tried them myself.
-Snail
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