Carole Fox on fri 14 nov 03
Susan,
Thanks for the tip, but I did indeed warm the test tile (well, it was still
warm from the kiln) but perhaps it needed to be HOT. I will try again.
I would also like to try beeswax. How does one apply that? Melt it and brush
it on a warm piece?
And if there are other waxes to try, I'd like to know. But, truthfully, I
wish I had some of that magic glaze that Janet spoke of, that would seal the
pot, but not change the look of the surface at all.
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
thesilverfox@dol.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Setley"
>
> << >I tried to put some paste wax on one of the test tiles , but it was
near
> impossible to get in all the crevices of the stamped designs...
>
>
> Warm them up. Then the wax will flow and
> penetrate, and cool with a satiny sheen.
> Buffing will shine the high parts if
> desired; handling will also tend to shine
> the high points in a rather organic way. >>
Wally on sat 15 nov 03
Carole and Susan,
I allways use beeswax to give a soft shine to my nakedraku.
No need to apply kilnhot... Sunhot is more than OK, but clay must be
thoroughly dry, before applying wax with cottonrag. I use an old
shoebrush if the surface is rough.
Beeswax comes in various brands, I found the type used for furniture
is OK as well.... Usually the "paste" quality is much better than the
cheaper "liquid" quality... Since you only need small amounts,it pays
to buy the best stuff you can get. Most clay suppliers over here do
not sell it, I get mine in a local drugstore.
So far up to my experience.
Wally.
www.student.kuleuven.ac.be/~m9822918
-- In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Carole Fox wrote:
Susan,Thanks for the tip, but I did indeed warm the test tile (well,
it was still warm from the kiln) but perhaps it needed to be HOT. I
will try again.
I would also like to try beeswax. How does one apply that? Melt it
and brush it on a warm piece?
And if there are other waxes to try, I'd like to know. > Carole Fox
> Silver Fox Pottery
Dawn Christensen on sat 15 nov 03
Hello
I have also used water and floorwax to seal over a smoked piece that
had added pastel work. Dawn, Menomonee Falls
Carole Fox on sun 16 nov 03
Golly Wally, (sorry, I couldn't help it ;-) ), I've never seen beeswax in
any form but a solid block. I will look around for sources of beeswax in
paste form. But I am guessing that the paste and liquid forms have other
ingredients in them besides beeswax. Or no?
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
thesilverfox@dol.net
> I allways use beeswax to give a soft shine to my nakedraku.
> No need to apply kilnhot... Sunhot is more than OK, but clay must be
> thoroughly dry, before applying wax with cottonrag. I use an old
> shoebrush if the surface is rough.
> Beeswax comes in various brands, I found the type used for furniture
> is OK as well.... Usually the "paste" quality is much better than the
> cheaper "liquid" quality...
> Wally.
Wally on mon 17 nov 03
Carole,
Yes, the bee-honey comes in solid blocks, but the bees-wax is
allways a mixture. Mostly softened with terpentine or linseed oil..
Good luck with your search.
But please inform me off-list where the "golly mix" comes from,
really haven't got a clue...
Wally, from misty Flanders.
In clayart@yahoogroups.com, Carole Fox wrote:
> Golly Wally, (sorry, I couldn't help it ;-) ), I've never seen
beeswax in
> any form but a solid block. I will look around for sources of
beeswax in
> paste form. But I am guessing that the paste and liquid forms have
other
> ingredients in them besides beeswax. Or no?
> Carole Fox
> Silver Fox Pottery
> Elkton, MD
> thesilverfox@d...
>
> > I allways use beeswax to give a soft shine to my nakedraku.
> > No need to apply kilnhot... Sunhot is more than OK, but clay
must be
> > thoroughly dry, before applying wax with cottonrag. I use an old
> > shoebrush if the surface is rough.
> > Beeswax comes in various brands, I found the type used for
furniture
> > is OK as well.... Usually the "paste" quality is much better
than the
> > cheaper "liquid" quality...
> > Wally.
>
>
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