pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on fri 14 nov 03
and... an attempt to frame a response for Fadra's question as to the
how of it...
Dear Fadra,
You have asked as to the how-of-it...if I might see if I can
explain...
I am honored to try!
I fear however, that my description will suffer in contrast
to you seeing it done...where you may take turns trying with
someone as may do it reliably for you to see in turn...
And never the less, here we go...
My method, is to use the pads-tips of the index, center and
ring finger of my right hand, in unison. The tips-pads of
these fingers seem to lay next to eachother for the
occasion, in an even (yet not tense or rigid) way, a relaxed
way, and so the tips are about in a line. My knuckles are
bent where my fingers are at my palm, and at their middle
and end joints...bent in an arc...so the three finger's ends
have a incidence of maybe 30 degrees to my hand for tender
or delicate Bowls or Pots, and, maybe 45 degrees for more
robust things.
The angle at which they meet the Pot or Bowl, being in each
case, about the same as their angle to my hand. In other
words, they strike the Pot or Bowl at an angle as is about
the same as their angle to my hand. Shallower angle for
lighter or more delicate things, steeper angle for heavier
or larger things. For truely large Bowls I seem to more
nearly spank them into their place either with combined
finger tip pads, or, my palm and fingers combined.
Smaller things may get only the first two finger's
tips-pads...and, at a low angle (pads of my fingertips and
not the 'tips' themselves in other words...)
I tap with a motion as is a combined movement of both the
fingers themselves, and, of the wrist, while my arm and
forearm remain still. So there is a slight 'whipping' effect
to the movement of the tips-pads themselves. For spanking
larger things my whole forearm joins the motion of the
gentle 'whip'.
Where a Bowl or Pot gets 'tapped' also depends on it's form.
You want to tap it on a location in it's height as will move
it sideways and not tip it or compress it unduely. For most
Bowls, this will be a little ways below the foot ( when it
is upside down of course) on what in that orientation may be
called it's 'shoulder'. You do not want to try tapping Bowls
from on low of their rim as they may crack or an area may
break out.
Shortish Bombay Vases or swelled short Cannisters with
smaller mouths than bottoms, may get tapped quite 'low',
nearer the Wheel, as they would tip otherwise.
You will discover this deference to shape in tapping, by
experiment...and in your norman Work occasions of managing
different forms when they come up.
Well...you will discover the whole thing by experiment and
practice...
And if my description here helps encourage and clearify some
of it a little, then I will be very proud of my attempt.
Forms whose ( in normal orientation) 'rims' are uneven will
not want to be stable unless the rims are made even for
Trimming stability ( if not ultimate aesthetic and other
notions as well - tho' of course, some Bowls may be intended
to have an uneven rim from being thrown, or to acquire one
afterward by some means...but...)
I think that generally, if very much 'eneven' in height,
these maybe would best serve their maker as a practice run
and would then be headed to the Clay reclaimation bucket.
Tho' one may insert a little 'pad' of something in the gap
of an uneven rim meeting the Wheel or Bat, if the rims
un-even-ness was something one wanted to keep...
Forms as have rims as are fairly even in height may be
evened up just that little bit more by putting some Water on
the Wheel Head or Bat, and, while rotating the Wheel not too
very fast, hold and gently press the Bowl or whatever-it-is
against it and move it back and forth, which will make a
fine slurrey, and do so untill satisfied with the rim
becomeing prefectly 'even' in height.
This can and will make a 'suction' when you do this, and the
piece may well grip the Bat or Wheel head quite firmly. If
so, one may tap the Wheelhead or Bat smartly with the
fingertips and this will persuade the piece to let go. If
the rim had wicked-up too uch moisture it may break off
pieces as remain against the Bat or Wheel...oh well...
Or, one may use a Bat as has some little holes in it to
prevent the suction...but still, do not tarry for the
'wicking' is at play!
The suction may also be relied upon, (having used minimal
Water for the little slurrey making,) if it occurs once a
piece IS centered at the right time, to hold it quite snugly
for Trimming, but...it will only hold it snugly for a little
while, so one does well to be ready in an easy way, for it
to (suddenly) let go while Trimming. Easy to do...handy to
do sometimes...and benifiting from presence of mind when the
momnent of letting go arrives...!
So far as the 'Tapping' itself...
I would suggest you consider to practice with some simple
Bowl form or other. It may be a bisqued one or a finished
one or a 'green' one and it will not matter.
Have a clean Wheel Head or Bat for the occasion. Run the
Wheel at a speed like what one uses for pulls, or, run it
'slow' at any rate. If you are right handed as I am, or left
handed, try tapping it with the finger pads or tips (or with
the area where they meet at your finger's ends) with
whatever hand seems anxious to be the one to do it, and...
This, (like Skeet Shooting, and, like maybe a great deal
else in our lives,) will work best if one does not 'think'.
Your body will know very quickly, if not knowing already for
that matter in it's intrinsic propensities, 'how' to do
this, and you do well to respect that and get out of it's
way with any 'thinking' compulsions, obligations or
interferences.
The exact moment of co-ordination in which the successful
'tap' removes the Pot or Bowl to vivid center, is a
confusion if thinking interferes. Thinking will occasion
many more ill timed taps than one will find pleasing to
experience. Without thinking, one may tap one or two times,
or, one may tap several times...whatever...it will work if
you trust it to do so, and it will work pretty quickly too.
Remember to keep your Wheel 'slow'...
Try this on a 'dry' Bat or Wheel of course...or, too...one
may make a nice enough 'Trimming Bat' (eventually) as has on
it a thin layer of some softish foam Rubber or similar. The
foam Rubber or the like will make the movement of the Bowl
or Pot a little different in the tapping, but one does it
just the same and with reliable results no matter.
If I left out anything as occurs to you, please let me know
and I will see if I can fill it in some more?
Best wishes!
Happy Tapping!
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fadra Hepner"
>
> Dear Phil,
> You expound upon how "true" tap centering is but don't
really give a description of HOW one would go about
mastering it. I have been wishing this was a skill of mine
for over a year now (only been throwing about 6 years) but
just can't seem to get the hang of it. It just seems
frustrating to someone who "gets" just about everything else
to hear another speak of how easy it is without clear
directions on how to achieve the goal. Could you PLEASE
offer some specific instructions on how to attack the
elusive tap to center skill? (i.e. super slow wheel
rotation, etc.)
> Thanks
> Fadra Hepner
> potter and teacher
>
>
>
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