Earl Krueger on sat 15 nov 03
Mel,
So, I guess maybe I missed the original point.
Why, would I want to do this?
Why not just go the gas route and forget the electrics?
Save a bundle on the elements. Only need one itc model.
Earl...
Bothell, WA, USA
mel jacobson on sat 15 nov 03
again i will post this.
as, it appeared in pmi...sort of.
gas/electric kiln.
as taught to me by nils lou.
take one electric kiln.
take it all apart...clean it very well.
brush out all the debris, and wash it.
yes, wash it....brush and water. rinse with a hose.
hard.
drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
lid of the kiln.
order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
follow itc instructions.. i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and narrow.
i also have put them in a large plastic bag, added 213...shake and bake.
hang them to dry.
wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
the coils with an even coat of itc 100.
let it dry.
install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
make them shine.
spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a coat of itc100...make sure
it is all covered....well.
dry, then fire the kiln to cone 08 or so.
i then sprayed the entire kiln with a coat of itc296a top coat.
let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
out the coils into the electrical.
buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl. rubber hose to a propane
connection (pol), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
we installed a regulator.
load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom.
place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
the kiln. fire this way til the sitter drops.
we fired to cone 10.
about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
turn off gas.
button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
we fired back up at about 1750...as we had a great many
reds in the kiln.
open kiln.
nice red, shino, good body color.
typical stoneware reduction firing.
and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
maybe two hours second day.
for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
will not work. buy new.
i would not do this with a beat out kiln....try and find a decent
used body....repair cracks and stuff first. you want a clean, tight
soft brick surface to coat with itc.
we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
rim of the kiln...want that tight.
we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
just so it would not be heat affected. and we protected
the main electric cable of the kiln.
From:
Minnetonka, Minnesota, U.S.A.
web site: my.pclink.com/~melpots
or try: http://www.pclink.com/melpots
new/ http://www.rid-a-tick.com
L. P. Skeen on sat 15 nov 03
Y'all, these instructions LOOK a lot harder than they are in actuality. YOU
CAN DO IT!!! :)
L
----- Original Message -----
From: "mel jacobson"
> gas/electric kiln.
> as taught to me by nils lou.
> take one electric kiln.
> take it all apart...clean it very well.
>
> brush out all the debris, and wash it.
> yes, wash it....brush and water. rinse with a hose.
> hard.
> drill an inch and a half hole in the bottom center of the kiln and the
> lid of the kiln.
>
> order new coils, (euclids would be easy) or the originals.
>
> clean them well with bleach, use a toothbrush.
>
> coat the coils with itc 213 metal coat.
> follow itc instructions.. i used a tray for sheet rock mud...long and
narrow.
> i also have put them in a large plastic bag, added 213...shake and bake.
>
> hang them to dry.
>
> wet the inside of the kiln with water..use your sprayer.
> spray the entire inside of the electric kiln and the channels for
> the coils with an even coat of itc 100.
>
> let it dry.
>
> install coils as to original instructions that came with the kiln.
> re/install and check all kiln sitter parts.
>
> make sure the fittings are tight and clean...sandpaper the connections.
> make them shine.
>
> spray the entire kiln, coils and all with a coat of itc100...make sure
> it is all covered....well.
>
> dry, then fire the kiln to cone 08 or so.
>
> i then sprayed the entire kiln with a coat of itc296a top coat.
> let it dry....make sure you spray the holes full that carry the
> coils to the outside of the kiln...don't want reduction leaking
> out the coils into the electrical.
>
> buy a nice bunsen burner( propane) order from Frey Scientific.
> connect it to a 25 pound propane cyl. rubber hose to a propane
> connection (pol), then a clamp on the bunsen burner connection.
> we installed a regulator.
>
> load and start kiln...we staggered the pots on half shelves.
>
> fire with electric only until you reach 1750F.
>
> turn on the gas, light and place the bunsen burner under the
> kiln so that the flame goes up the hole in the bottom.
>
> place a piece of kiln shelf over the top hole a small way, move until
> you get an inch or more flame from your spy hole on the side of
> the kiln. fire this way til the sitter drops.
>
> we fired to cone 10.
> about 5 hours...the gas kicks it up fast...really works well.
> turn off gas.
> button up kiln...kaowool plugs in the top and bottom holes.
> we fired back up at about 1750...as we had a great many
> reds in the kiln.
>
> open kiln.
> nice red, shino, good body color.
>
> typical stoneware reduction firing.
> and a very easy project to make...took about two hours one day.
> maybe two hours second day.
>
>
> for the cheapos out there...do not try and itc coat old coils..it
> will not work. buy new.
>
> i would not do this with a beat out kiln....try and find a decent
> used body....repair cracks and stuff first. you want a clean, tight
> soft brick surface to coat with itc.
>
> we used some thin sheets of kaowool as a gasket on the top
> rim of the kiln...want that tight.
>
> we fired in the barn, with great cross venting.
> you should be able to use standard electric kiln venting.
> but, take care, use your head....it will fire hotter than
> you are used to...and the reduction must me vented.
>
> we put a piece of kaowool over the hose under the kiln
> just so it would not be heat affected. and we protected
> the main electric cable of the kiln.
>
>
>
>
Snail Scott on sun 16 nov 03
At 09:30 PM 11/15/03 -0800, you wrote:
>Why, would I want to do this?
>Why not just go the gas route and forget the electrics?
The point of the electric/gas combo conversion,
is that the heat is largely provided by the
electricity, and the gas provides, merely an
assist in heating. Mainly, what the gas provides
is reduction.
To make an entirely gas-fired kiln from an
electric kiln carcass is certainly possible
(I'm planning one myself), but it becomes a
rather more complex undertaking. The combo-
conversion allows for a reduction atmosphere
while retaining the conveniences of an electric
kiln, such as a minimal need for venting and
dampering, little need to design for air flow
within the kiln, no need to size burners and
secondary air, and no large fuel tanks with
their attendant need for permits.
None of these things is all that tough to deal
with, but the elegant simplicity of the bunsen-
burner add-on for reduction is very appealing.
-Snail
David Meaders on sun 16 nov 03
>I have a large tunnel kiln (5'x5' ware bed) which was designed
for wood. I now fire it with a combination of wood and gas
to cone 10 and above with good success.
david
At 09:30 PM 11/15/03 -0800, you wrote:
>>Why, would I want to do this?
>>Why not just go the gas route and forget the electrics?
>
>
> The point of the electric/gas combo conversion,
> is that the heat is largely provided by the
> electricity, and the gas provides, merely an
> assist in heating. Mainly, what the gas provides
> is reduction.
>
> To make an entirely gas-fired kiln from an
> electric kiln carcass is certainly possible
> (I'm planning one myself), but it becomes a
> rather more complex undertaking. The combo-
> conversion allows for a reduction atmosphere
> while retaining the conveniences of an electric
> kiln, such as a minimal need for venting and
> dampering, little need to design for air flow
> within the kiln, no need to size burners and
> secondary air, and no large fuel tanks with
> their attendant need for permits.
>
> None of these things is all that tough to deal
> with, but the elegant simplicity of the bunsen-
> burner add-on for reduction is very appealing.
>
> -Snail
>
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