search  current discussion  categories  kilns & firing - coatings 

itc213 element prep question--done

updated tue 18 nov 03

 

mudslingers@ATT.NET on mon 17 nov 03


so here's my take on it now after hearing from some of you and itc'ing the
coils last night:

stephanie: so much of what you said was exactly my experience! trepidation,
wanting to get it right, differing instructions, more trepidation... and
yes, "it is expensive stuff, so you do want to get it right the first time."
not only is the itc expensive, but the coils are expensive
and the kiln is expensive and a major piece of equipment in
my studio! i don't want to take any risk of screwing it up at all.

and paul did get the info from feriz delkic himself.

and i think nils said that axner sells their kilns with itc already on them,
so axner obviously has experience with the stuff, and i personally believe
that axner strives to get things right.

the axner instructions had a special paragraph for the elements -- and i
relay it here:
"New elements have a greasy residue left from the wire manufacturing process,
which may cause the ITC 213 to flake off if not removed. One method is to pre-
fire elements after stretching for 5 to 10 minutes, to achieve at least
cherry-red glow. If this is not possible, the elements can be heated in a
furnace or kiln at 700 degrees F for 30 minutes. Allow to cool.
The ITC 213 can be applied as described above or can be applied by dipping.
Using a wide shallow pan, empty the ITC 213 into the pan and add 1/3 water,
mixing well. Dip the entire element except for the lead wire into the ITC 213
mixture. APPLY AS THINLY AS POSSIBLE. After Dipping, shake the element to
remove excess coating and hang to dry for several hours or overnight. The
elements are now ready to install."

SO, my conclusions...
- the instructions for washing with bleach and NOT to dilute are generic
instructions and applicable for the majority of itc users, whom, i'm sure are
NOT potters!(though the bleach instructions can be applied to elements)
- feriz (ITC inventor) and axner (ceramic supplier for potters) are aware of
the specifics of itc use for kiln elements and disperse that info as needed.

and what I did...
- i fired the new elements up to 700 degrees for 30 minutes and let them cool.
- i diluted the mixture (first by adding 1/3 pint, but it still seemed too
thick, so i added up to 1/2 pint (total) water) and mixed with a squirrel
cage mixer (love those things!) on the end of my drill.
- i used a 2 gal. bucket and coated 1 coil at a time in the bucket by
immersing the coiled coil and rolling the bucket around to make sure the
entire coil (except the pigtails) was coated.
- with help from hubby, we hung each coil from the basement ceiling (on nails
in the ceiling joists spread 6ft apart) so that they hung in a large U shape.
- i shook the coil (the excess itc flew! -- we had newspaper all over the
floor) and made sure there were no places where the itc spanned coils (we
blew into those places gently to clean them).
- after a few minutes, the itc starts to dry and you can see places where the
metal is showing through (the 213 is a brown substance so the thin spots were
easy to see). i touched them up with a sponge brush.

the current plan (still might change my mind...) is to sponge brush lightly,
the element grooves with itc 100ht, install the coils, fire once, spray
(using the harbor freight hvlp) the entire kiln and coils with 100ht. the
other option is to do what mel says:
1 light coat of 100 first, then install the elements, then another light coat
of 100 (no firing in between).

i know, i know, long post. but if you got this far and you have ANY
tips, tricks or insight into the preparation or application of the 100ht, i'm
all ears!

thanks to all,
lauren

--
Mudslingers Pottery, Lauren Bellero
http://mudslingers.home.att.net
39 Leroy Place, Red Bank, NJ 07701
732.747.4853