gordon jones on tue 25 nov 03
hello all, i am going to attempt my own low cost kiln vent and need to know
some specs on under kiln type system. if someone could let me know the cfm
rating on the motor, dont want to suck all the heat out of the kiln ,fumes
only. i have only found ratings printed for the hood type. i will be using
an industrial supplier catalog for parts fan motors range from about 40
dollars sheet metal boxwoek and all i think can be done for 65 75 dollars
total cost. i will be happy to post part numbers and project designs if it
works, if it dont i can put a silly picture of my face with that look you
know the one where i've drilled holes in the kiln and spent the afternoon
building this thing only to throw it away and drop the big list price for
the vent. checked the archives and could not find .
gordon jones earthbound arts.
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Lee Love on wed 26 nov 03
----- Original Message -----
From: "gordon jones"
>hello all, i am going to attempt my own low cost kiln vent and need to
>know some specs on under kiln type system.
One thing to remember: suck, don't blow. :^)
Use the blower to draw the fumes at the exit end. This way, if your
tubing gets a leak or a hole, you'll still be drawing the fumes out. If
the blower is near the kiln exit hole, then you are mostly pushing. If
there are any leaks, you will push the fumes out the leaks.
--
Lee In Mashiko, Japan
http://Mashiko.org
Web Log (click on recent date):
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william schran on wed 26 nov 03
Gordon wrote:>hello all, i am going to attempt my own low cost kiln
vent and need to know
some specs on under kiln type system. if someone could let me know the cfm
rating on the motor, dont want to suck all the heat out of the kiln ,fumes
only.<
I checked the Bailey vent I have and there is no CFM rating listed on
it. The motor is 1/125 HP, 3030 RPM. The squirrel cage blower looks
to be about 6" diameter. I like this system. L&L also has a similar
system. Rather than drilling holes in bottom and/or top, one 1/4"
hole is drilled near the bottom of the wall opposite the spy hole
side. A flexible metal vent is attached to the exterior wall leaving
a little space around the edges to introduce secondary air. The motor
is away from the kiln and stays relatively cool. While the vent is
on, the top spy hole plug is left out creating a downdraft in the
kiln. I have found this actually helps to even out the firing.
I previously had a hood type vent but found the motor overheated and
shut itself off, as it was designed to do.
Bill
Laurie Kneppel on wed 26 nov 03
I have a Bailey vent, too. I got it for my old Cress kiln. When I got
my Skutt it came pre-drilled for, presumably, their EnviroVent system,
so it had holes in the lid and in the floor. So I adapted my Bailey to
go under the kiln stand by attaching the flexible metal vent to a piece
of sheet metal flashing that was the same size as the kiln stand. (I
think - it's been a few years since I put it together and have actually
seen it with my own eyes) I cut out the center and put in what I think
is called a reducer, so it fit snug and the outside of that is what the
metal vent that goes to the Bailey's motor is attached to. Also the
opening in the flashing is wide enough to be able to suck air from all
the pre-drilled holes. It all seems to work just fine. I don't leave
the top spy hole plug out since the lid was already drilled.
But that is a way you can make an under the kiln type vent.
Laurie
Sacramento, CA
On Wednesday, November 26, 2003, at 09:16 AM, william schran wrote:
> Gordon wrote:>hello all, i am going to attempt my own low cost kiln
> vent and need to know
> some specs on under kiln type system. if someone could let me know the
> cfm
> rating on the motor, dont want to suck all the heat out of the kiln
> ,fumes
> only.<
>
> I checked the Bailey vent I have and there is no CFM rating listed on
> it. The motor is 1/125 HP, 3030 RPM. The squirrel cage blower looks
> to be about 6" diameter. I like this system. L&L also has a similar
> system. Rather than drilling holes in bottom and/or top, one 1/4"
> hole is drilled near the bottom of the wall opposite the spy hole
> side. A flexible metal vent is attached to the exterior wall leaving
> a little space around the edges to introduce secondary air. The motor
> is away from the kiln and stays relatively cool. While the vent is
> on, the top spy hole plug is left out creating a downdraft in the
> kiln. I have found this actually helps to even out the firing.
>
> I previously had a hood type vent but found the motor overheated and
> shut itself off, as it was designed to do.
>
> Bill
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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>
Russel Fouts on thu 27 nov 03
gordon,
>> hello all, i am going to attempt my own low cost kiln vent and need to
know some specs on under kiln type system. if someone could let me know the
cfm rating on the motor, dont want to suck all the heat out of the kiln
,fumes only. i have only found ratings printed for the hood type. i will be
using an industrial supplier catalog for parts fan motors range from about
40 dollars sheet metal boxwoek and all i think can be done for 65 75
dollars total cost. i will be happy to post part numbers and project
designs if it works, if it dont i can put a silly picture of my face with
that look you know the one where i've drilled holes in the kiln and spent
the afternoon building this thing only to throw it away and drop the big
list price for the vent. checked the archives and could not find . <<
There was a very simple, no moving parts one discussed on Clayart years ago
that sounded very clever. Basically it involved a verticle pipe going up
through the roof with a pipe connected perpendicularly going to a hole
drilled in to the side of the kiln. The perpendicular pipe did not go into
the kiln but the opening was very close to the hole and wasn't longer than
a few inches. The vertical pipe was open on both ends.
It worked because the hot gas from the kiln heated the pipe and created a
draft that continued to draw the hot air out of the kiln. The pipe never
got very hot because of the cold air that was being mixed at the opening
near the kiln and the bottom of the verticle pipe.
I imagine that you might have to drill a couple of small holes into the lid
of the kiln in order to have an air intake to replace the air coming out of
the kiln. Also if you wanted to make sure that there was already a draft
going up the pipe, you could put a bunsen burner under the lower open end
of the pipe.
Apparently it worked. I think it as an idea being discussed by mel and Lou
Nils. I don't remember that part very well.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
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Donald Burroughs on thu 27 nov 03
Actually I built a home made version of the Bailey vent system William
spoke of. It is I believe the better and more cost effective system
compared to the under mount systems. More so when you can build it yourself.
For fan I went to local surplus type store...you know the one which has
gizmo and gadget under the sun.Also bought a variable speed switch to
control the rpms at different stages of the firing. Used flexible aluminium
dryer duct like the Bailey.Vented it through my garage wall with a double
walled vent pipe complete with baffle.I would also suggest that you drill a
hole through your top spy hole plug (should be softbrick) 1/4" as this is
all the draft you really need. All this for about $60.00 cdn.
Don Burroughs On the web @ http://www.autobahn.mb.ca/~donaldo
gwen olson on sun 30 nov 03
I built my own vent system as well. I purchased a squirrel cage fan from a dealer on Ebay for $35 including shipping. I attached the flexable dryer duct to the fan. My kiln is under a window in my basement, so I removed a pane of glass from the window and replaced it with a piece of wood where I drilled a hole the correct size for the exhaust of the fan to mount to. Then I attached a duct connector with tabs on the end to the back of my kiln where I had drilled a small hole and attached the other end of the duct to the connector. I use my top spy hole as the intake hole. I have a moveable plate over the spy hole for regulation of air flow. It works great and I don't have to worry about sealing the duct, as I would have to with a under mount fan, to make sure that the gasses aren't being pushed into the room. Now they are all being sucked out to the great outdoors. :)
Denise Olson
Donald Burroughs wrote:
Actually I built a home made version of the Bailey vent system William
spoke of. It is I believe the better and more cost effective system
compared to the under mount systems. More so when you can build it yourself.
For fan I went to local surplus type store...you know the one which has
gizmo and gadget under the sun.Also bought a variable speed switch to
control the rpms at different stages of the firing. Used flexible aluminium
dryer duct like the Bailey.Vented it through my garage wall with a double
walled vent pipe complete with baffle.I would also suggest that you drill a
hole through your top spy hole plug (should be softbrick) 1/4" as this is
all the draft you really need. All this for about $60.00 cdn.
Don Burroughs On the web @ http://www.autobahn.mb.ca/~donaldo
______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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Hendrix, Taylor J. on sun 30 nov 03
Gordon,
I too am going to be building myself a downdraft vent for=20
an electric kiln. As of yet I don't know the cfms for any=20
of the major brands. I hope that you post any answers that=20
you find as will I. From my quick and dirty online research,=20
under-kiln vents run in the 300's. More for mulit-kiln=20
versions.
What seems to be the more important concept of these types=20
of venting systems is not so much the cfm (true, don't get a=20
fan that will suck off the glaze) of the fan as the need to mix
room air with vented gasses via some shutter just downstream
of the kiln. More than enough cfm =3D not too bad. Less than=20
enough cfm =3D doh! That shutter is what allows you to fine=20
tune the draw through your electric kiln. The room air=20
dilutes the hot kiln gasses and requires more cfm than would=20
be otherwise needed. How much? I have no idee.
But I will. Will be in touch. =20
The Mayor did have a pic or two of his system on his website
at one time. I liked it, but never saved the pics for
reference. Mel?
Taylor, in Waco
p.s. I'm thinking about using a fan from an old=20
air-conditioning unit I scrounged. =20
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of gordon
jones
Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 10:38 PM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: kiln vent project
hello all, i am going to attempt my own low cost kiln vent and need to
know
some specs on under kiln type system. if someone could let me know the
cfm
rating on the motor, dont want to suck all the heat out of the kiln
,fumes
only. i have only found ratings printed for the hood type. i will be
using
an industrial supplier catalog for parts fan motors range from about 40
dollars sheet metal boxwoek and all i think can be done for 65 75
dollars
total cost. i will be happy to post part numbers and project designs if
it
works, if it dont i can put a silly picture of my face with that look
you
know the one where i've drilled holes in the kiln and spent the
afternoon
building this thing only to throw it away and drop the big list price
for
the vent. checked the archives and could not find .
Kathi LeSueur on sun 30 nov 03
guinevere8208@YAHOO.COM wrote:
>I built my own vent system as well. I purchased a squirrel cage fan from a dealer on Ebay for $35 including shipping. I attached the flexable dryer duct to the fan.>>>
>
The only thing I would suggest changing on your system is the flexible
dryer duct. It will corrode very quickly and the small holes will allow
fumes to escape. Rigid galvanized duct work is a better solution.
Kathi
>
>
Gordon Ward on sun 30 nov 03
Some years ago I purchased a Bailey downdraft vent, but the squirrel
cage blower got eaten up in about 6 months. I then decided to try a
bilge blower (Grainger's) which was made of non corroding plastic.
To overcome any heat issues, I located the blower about 15- 20 feet
from the kiln to allow the gases to cool. The first 4 feet of ducting is
solid aluminium which holds up much longer than the stretchy
aluminium kind, then I went with plastic dryer ducting. This has
worked well for me for over 10 years. I still have to replace the
aluminum every year or so. To cut the draft down, I have drilled a
series of 3/8" holes in the aluminum ducting near the exit from the kiln.
This has the effect of diluting any caustic gasses being extracted from
the kiln as well as decreasing the suction on the kiln. Good luck on
your project. Gordon
Arnold Howard on mon 1 dec 03
From: "Kathi LeSueur"
> >I built my own vent system as well. I purchased a squirrel cage fan from
a dealer on Ebay for $35 including shipping. I attached the flexable dryer
duct to the fan.>>>
>
> The only thing I would suggest changing on your system is the flexible
> dryer duct. It will corrode very quickly and the small holes will allow
> fumes to escape. Rigid galvanized duct work is a better solution.
> Kathi
You can also use PVC pipe as a vent. It lasts a long time. You can get it in
the same diameter as the other vent materials.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net
Lee Love on mon 1 dec 03
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathi LeSueur"
> The only thing I would suggest changing on your system is the flexible
> dryer duct. It will corrode very quickly and the small holes will allow
> fumes to escape. Rigid galvanized duct work is a better solution.
If the blower is drawing, instead of pushing, the negative pressure
will guard against leaks.
--
Lee In Mashiko, Japan
http://Mashiko.org
Web Log (click on recent date):
http://www.livejournal.com/users/togeika/calendar
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