Vince Pitelka on fri 28 nov 03
> Bending the background this way gives a unifom background with no lines.
> The item photographed in this set up appears floating in space with a
> nice background behind it.
John -
When photographing ceramics or glass, there are three common problems that
can occur even when the photographer is trying to do the most professional
job. One is to create the impression that the piece is floating in space.
That makes the piece appear flat, and it removes it from the real context of
sitting on some sort of flat surface. When photographing something that
does in fact sit on a flat surface, it is essential that the surface be
revealed. That is easy to do with a proper backdrop and proper lighting.
The second problem occurs when people attempt to eliminate all highlights
reflecting off the piece, and all cast shadows. Some people use a softbox
alone, or lights with umbrella reflectors, or a white sheet tent, and any
one of them will eliminate virtually all highlights and cast shadows. When
photographing work that is in fact shiny, it is essential that some
highlights show the reflective surface in the photograph, in order to
represent the piece truthfully. A small subsidary spotlight can do that,
and it can create a slight cast shadow that can be very effective. It can
be positioned quite far away if necessary, just so that it creates just a
bit of highlight and shadow.
Third problem occurs when lighting is completely symmetrical. In some cases
that works, but much of the most interesting photgraphy of 3-D objects
occurs when the lighting is slightly asymmetrical. It is a simple matter to
shift the softbox slightly off center, to help reveal the
three-dimensionality of the piece. Reflective cards asymmetricall placed
can reflect light towards the base of the piece on one side or the other.
The subsidary spotlight can also be placed off center.
These are just a few suggestions, but the essential point is to represent
the piece in the most complimentary and truthful "light" without causing any
distractions.
Best wishes -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Home - vpitelka@dtccom.net
615/597-5376
Office - wpitelka@tntech.edu
615/597-6801 x111, FAX 615/597-6803
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka/
http://www.tntech.edu/craftcenter/
phil davenport on sat 29 nov 03
Susan:
There are two things you can do---
Go to a supplier that handles lighting equipment for stage productions. There is a
frosted material that is heat resistant, to be used as a diffuser on various light
sources. It comes in several different sizes.
The second thing you can do is to go to a cloth store and purchase white rip stop
nylon. It is NOT heat resistant and should not be placed close to a light source.
With 500 watt bulbs you should be able to move the lights away from the diffusion
material and still maintain a high level of illumination. You can build a PVC
frame and hang the material on the inside of the frame.
Hope this helps.
SusanRaku@AOL.COM wrote:
> In a message dated 11/29/2003 8:35:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> vpitelka@DTCCOM.NET writes:
> white sheet tent
> Vince, what is this. I tried using cotton pillow cases but they burned from
> the 500 watt bulbs I use. Is there something that will do the trick and
> tolerate the heat better?
>
> Best wishes for the holidays.
>
> Susan
>
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SusanRaku@AOL.COM on sat 29 nov 03
In a message dated 11/29/2003 8:35:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
vpitelka@DTCCOM.NET writes:
white sheet tent
Vince, what is this. I tried using cotton pillow cases but they burned from
the 500 watt bulbs I use. Is there something that will do the trick and
tolerate the heat better?
Best wishes for the holidays.
Susan
William Sheppard on sun 30 nov 03
I am using two 150 watt, 5,000K (sunlight), coiled floresent bulbs
shining through a white plastic shower curtian. The bulbs are almost cool
enough to touch while they are turned on. They also are supposed to have a
very long life expectancy. I found them at a lighting speciality store for
less than $10.00 each.
The bulbs are mounted in metal clamp-lamp light holders from Home
Depot that I got for less than $10.00 each. Get the heavy duty ones so the
clamps don't slip and the cords are longer than the cheaper ones.
I stand two pieces of 1" PVC pipe on each side of the photo booth
wegdged between the floor and the ceiling to clamp the lights to. Totally
adjustable.
Shower curtain is draped over the aluminum frame of a lawn chair with
the webbing removed to create a tented area with difused light. Leave the
front of booth uncovered for shooting through.
Backdrop is either white or gray paper draped across small table and
curving up against the wall. The lawn chair frame sits on the table.
As always, I make do with little expense and available materials. I
am a clay person not a real photographer.
Hope this gives you all some ideas.
William
The temp really dropped today here in Florida. It got down to almost
the high 40's last night.
My 35mm SRL Camera is set up on tripod in front of photo booth.
The best part is that I can set up or take this contraption down in
about 10 minutes, mainly because it is my guest bedroom.
SusanRaku@AOL.COM on sun 30 nov 03
In a message dated 11/30/2003 6:47:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
davnport@TENET.EDU writes:
Will try both! Thanks for the info.
Susan
Susan:
There are two things you can do---
Go to a supplier that handles lighting equipment for stage productions.
There is a
frosted material that is heat resistant, to be used as a diffuser on various
light
sources. It comes in several different sizes.
The second thing you can do is to go to a cloth store and purchase white rip
stop
nylon. It is NOT heat resistant and should not be placed close to a light
source.
With 500 watt bulbs you should be able to move the lights away from the
diffusion
material and still maintain a high level of illumination. You can build a PVC
frame and hang the material on the inside of the frame.
Hope this helps.
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