SusanRaku@AOL.COM on mon 1 dec 03
In a message dated 12/1/2003 8:48:36 PM Eastern Standard Time,
DMCARTS@AOL.COM writes:
> http://www.members.aol.com:/dmcarch1
>
>
Wonderful images!! A picture is no doubt worth a thousand words. I am
assuming that your background is a medium gray? How do you get the gradation
effect?
greyhound
Gordon Ward on mon 1 dec 03
Excellent. Thank you for sharing this fairly simple set-up and results.
A picture is worth a thousand words... I've been shooting under a sky
light with a side window using a curved formica sheet back ground for
years. It gives reasonably good results, but not as much drama. I am
going to try this idea with some of those 500 watt halogen work lamps
when I have time. Gordon
DMCARTS@AOL.COM on mon 1 dec 03
Hello All,
I use a very simple and inexpensive photo set-up that has served me well...I
have posted a few images of the set-up along with the resultant pix at the
following link:
http://www.members.aol.com:/dmcarch1
Hope this helps,
Michael Coffee, Sunny Pagosa Springs, Colorado USA
www.dmcarts.com
Jennifer Boyer on mon 1 dec 03
Hi Michael,
What's the reflective sheet made of?
Jennifer
On Monday, December 1, 2003, at 08:41 PM, DMCARTS@AOL.COM wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I use a very simple and inexpensive photo set-up that has served me
> well...I
> have posted a few images of the set-up along with the resultant pix at
> the
> following link:
> http://www.members.aol.com:/dmcarch1
>
> Hope this helps,
> Michael Coffee, Sunny Pagosa Springs, Colorado USA
> www.dmcarts.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
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>
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***********************************************
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Jennifer Boyer - Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT 05602
http://thistlehillpottery.com
***********************************************
Bobbruch1@AOL.COM on wed 3 dec 03
<<<Excellent. Thank you for
sharing this fairly simple set-up and results. A picture is worth a thousand
words... I've been shooting under a sky light with a side window using a curved
formica sheet back ground for years. It gives reasonably good results, but not
as much drama. I am going to try this idea with some of those 500 watt
halogen work lamps when I have time. Gordon
Gordon: I am not sure about this, but you may need different film than you
are using with your natural light set up, and maybe lens filters as well. Before
I would try something with a new learning curve, I might suggest a graduated
background. It could provide some of the drama without any changes in how you
are used to working.
Bob Bruch
Gordon Ward on wed 3 dec 03
Hi Bob,
I may just try the graduated background, I know some people like like
it and the simplicity is most appealing. It would likely be satisfactory
using my natural light (skylight) set-up. I sometimes feel that I'd like to
get the aperture smaller for a bit more clarity, so that's partly why I'm
considering lights.
The majority of the shots I take are digital, so I can correct color
somewhat on the computer, but I occasionally want the higher quality
of slides. As Hank has mentioned, daylight spectrum bulbs are
available for these 500 watt halogen fixtures, and they don't die so fast
as photo floods. That way when taking slides I can still use daylight
film. Someone mentioned that the regular halogen bulbs are OK too,
so it might be worth a roll to try it.
Gordon
Arnold Howard on wed 3 dec 03
One way to be able to shoot with a small aperture setting is electronic
flash. However, you will also need a flash meter, but they're not expensive
anymore. I bought a used one for about $100.
The only difficulty with flash is that it is so fast that you cannot preview
the lighting unless you use a modeling light. Studio flash includes modeling
lights. Another disadvantage to flash is that to use a modeling light, your
room must be completely dark.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net
From: "Gordon Ward"
It would likely be satisfactory
> using my natural light (skylight) set-up. I sometimes feel that I'd like
to
> get the aperture smaller for a bit more clarity, so that's partly why I'm
> considering lights.
Hank Murrow on wed 3 dec 03
On Dec 3, 2003, at 7:51 AM, Gordon Ward wrote:
> The majority of the shots I take are digital, so I can correct color
> somewhat on the computer, but I occasionally want the higher quality
> of slides. As Hank has mentioned, daylight spectrum bulbs are
> available for these 500 watt halogen fixtures, and they don't die so
> fast
> as photo floods. That way when taking slides I can still use daylight
> film. Someone mentioned that the regular halogen bulbs are OK too,
> so it might be worth a roll to try it.
Dear Gordon and others taking their own pics;
I found my color-corrected halogen at Hollywood Lights in Portland, OR.
I did a test roll or two with the uncorrected 500W halogen bulbs, and
then one with the color-corrected one, and the color went from a warm
grey to a neutral grey with no particular color shift in any direction.
The result can be compared in 075 & 099 on the Shino page at
http://www.murrow.biz/hank/shino-pots.htm . I believe you can see (and
may even prefer) the warmer cast on 075 that resulted from the
un-corrected bulb. The corrected bulbs cost around $18, and are good
for a long time. They do not change over time, but hold their color
rendition until failure. I use a two full diffusor screens (also from
Hollywood Lights) to soften the light, of course @ $2.50/screen. BTW,
The aforementioned pics are low rez pics put up when my brother was
worried about bandwidth on the site, You can see the difference between
hi and low rez pics by comparing this:
http://www.murrow.biz/hank/images/b-pix/b012.jpg with the former pics.
Cheers, Hank
John Hesselberth on wed 3 dec 03
On Wednesday, December 3, 2003, at 12:54 PM, Arnold Howard wrote:
> One way to be able to shoot with a small aperture setting is electronic
> flash. However, you will also need a flash meter, but they're not
> expensive
> anymore. I bought a used one for about $100.
Hi Arnold,
Nah, you don't need one of those. They're not needed for this kind of
photography. Just take a test roll of film at different f stops and
pick the best exposure. Set up the same way every time; use the same f
stop; same film; everything the same and you'll get perfect exposures
every time. Very reproducible. Just like Mel says.
John
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Chris Schafale on thu 4 dec 03
But, as I discovered, don't take your film to a quickie film developer. I tried
this with a roll of print film, because I could get it developed more quickly
than slides. After all my very careful experimentation with f-stops and shutter
speeds, even putting a card in each picture that had the f-stop and shutter
speed written on it, their machine did its darndest to make all the pictures
come out "correctly exposed" -- so I couldn't tell which was best after all.
Sigh. I hate it when machines think they know better than you do.....
Chris
On 3 Dec 2003 at 20:01, John Hesselberth wrote:
>
> Nah, you don't need one of those. They're not needed for this kind of
> photography. Just take a test roll of film at different f stops and
> pick the best exposure. Set up the same way every time; use the same f
> stop; same film; everything the same and you'll get perfect exposures
> every time. Very reproducible. Just like Mel says.
>
> John
>
> http://www.frogpondpottery.com
> http://www.masteringglazes.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Light One Candle Pottery
Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina, USA
(south of Raleigh)
candle@intrex.net
http://www.lightonecandle.com
Arnold Howard on thu 4 dec 03
From: "John Hesselberth"
> > One way to be able to shoot with a small aperture setting is electronic
> > flash. However, you will also need a flash meter, but they're not
> > expensive
> > anymore. I bought a used one for about $100.
>
> Hi Arnold,
>
> Nah, you don't need one of those. They're not needed for this kind of
> photography. Just take a test roll of film at different f stops and
> pick the best exposure. Set up the same way every time; use the same f
> stop; same film; everything the same and you'll get perfect exposures
> every time. Very reproducible. Just like Mel says.
>
> John
You're right, John. A flash meter is a luxury potters wouldn't need for
shooting the same setup every time.
Also, if you don't have studio flash, you can still make your own modeling
light for a portable flash unit.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net
John Hesselberth on thu 4 dec 03
On Thursday, December 4, 2003, at 05:50 AM, Chris Schafale wrote:
> But, as I discovered, don't take your film to a quickie film developer.
An excellent point Chris. If you work with film--whatever kind--take it
to the processor in your area who processes the pros work. It might
cost a dollar or two a roll more (or not), but it will be worth it. The
quality control at most 'mall' photo stores or drugstores or grocery
stores is terrible. If you want reproducible results you must use a
quality processor--and the pros know who those are.
Regards,
John
http://www.frogpondpottery.com
http://www.masteringglazes.com
Arnold Howard on thu 4 dec 03
If you use slide film, every slide will develop just as you exposed it.
That's one of the advantages of slides over prints. Commercial enlargers
average the exposure for each print.
If you shoot a test roll of slides, specify that the slides not be cut. That
way you get one continuous piece of film, from darkest slides to lightest,
and you can easily pick out the best exposure.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net
From: "Chris Schafale"
> But, as I discovered, don't take your film to a quickie film developer. I
tried
> this with a roll of print film, because I could get it developed more
quickly
> than slides. After all my very careful experimentation with f-stops and
shutter
> speeds, even putting a card in each picture that had the f-stop and
shutter
> speed written on it, their machine did its darndest to make all the
pictures
> come out "correctly exposed" -- so I couldn't tell which was best after
all.
> Sigh. I hate it when machines think they know better than you do.....
>
> Chris
Hank Murrow on thu 4 dec 03
On Dec 4, 2003, at 7:51 AM, Arnold Howard wrote:
> If you use slide film, every slide will develop just as you exposed it.
> That's one of the advantages of slides over prints. Commercial
> enlargers
> average the exposure for each print.
>
> If you shoot a test roll of slides, specify that the slides not be
> cut. That
> way you get one continuous piece of film, from darkest slides to
> lightest,
> and you can easily pick out the best exposure.
And If you want a CD made from your roll, it is far cheaper to have it
done from an uncut roll at the time of processing. My lab burns them in
five different file sizes from 8Kb to 800Kb for $13 each roll.
Having the CD makes it easy to paste them onto an email, or alter from
Adobe, or just filing them in appropriate folders for use.
Cheers, Hank in Eugene
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