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electric kiln choices i have the same problem with both my kilms

updated wed 3 dec 03

 

Micheline Fallis on tue 2 dec 03


I have two olympics. Now granted I use them a lot,but the construction on theses guys leaves a lot to be desired as far as strength goes. We change out all the elements a couple times a year.The plugs that join the sections were all melted together within the first month. At present I am trying to get a lid shipped in through my supplier. The lids are in very poor condition basicaly because of the poor constrution that was listed below.My first kiln was a plainsmen!! Now that was a kiln. It was built to last. Wish they would start making them again.I was thinking of buying a axners kiln,but now I think I will have to look a little harder.I did not realize that they were olympics!! That would have been quite a supprise!! I would want one that has the sides fortified,so that all the pressure of loading does not crumble the firebrick and also one that has good lid construction and support.I will need to get a newone to take to Belize.
Micheline Fallis
shivering in Cold Lake,Alberta but off to Belize in three more weeks!!!

william schran wrote:
Judy wrote: > I am considering the following
kilns and wonder if anyone has experience with either or has advice for me:
Axner SuperKiln, L&L Jupiter kiln , L&L DaVinci kiln<

I have at school 4 L&L kilns (J2927, 2ea. J236, J18X) and one Axner
Super kiln (can't remember model#, it's the biggest one)
The Axner kiln is an Olympic kiln. Fires well, cools slow (a good
thing). Warning, this kiln is one piece, not in sections! Didn't know
this when purchased. Thank goodness it fit through the door of kiln
shed. It's a heavy sucker! I'm sure the one piece construction
contributes to it's efficiency.
The negatives: Lid cracked (chunk came out) near the hinge plate.
Axner had Olympic send repair cement - didn't work. Now the area of
brick where the hinge plate attaches to the wall are separating from
the adjacent bricks. It's due to the poor design of the lid propping
bar. It's located on one side only and when the lid is propped open,
the lid (which is heavy) twists, causing all areas to which the lid
is attached to also twist. The lid propping bar also comes down right
over a handle for lifting the kiln. When I close the lid I have to
reach over and push the bar away from the kiln to clear the handle -
again simple poor design.
Changed out the elements in this kiln last year - what a pain. Called
Olympus and asked how they install the floor element - "Get a small
women to stand in the kiln". I balanced on my belly (a great cushion)
along the top of the wall and let all the blood go to my head.

All our L&L's are older models, all with 2 1/2" brick. The J236's and
J18X are fired to cone 6 many times each semester - change the
elements every 18-24 months. The J2927 is used primarily for bisque
firings. There are big cracks in the lid & bottom, corrosion from the
repeated bisque firings, but it keeps chugging along. Have changed
the elements once or twice in the ten years we've had it. I've put a
thin layer of fiber between the sections of all the L&L's. The
element holders make it lots easier to change out the elements.
The next electric kiln we get will be an L&L with 3" brick.
Bill



out the elements

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Micheline

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