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brushing glaze

updated wed 10 dec 03

 

Snail Scott on mon 8 dec 03


At 10:36 AM 12/8/03 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello, I would appreciate some advice on applying glaze using a brush. The
>glaze seems to soak in immediately leaving the brush dry. Apply an even
>coat was impossible. Also, the piece showed very noticeable brush marks
>after firing...


Wet the bisque well before brushing the glaze; this
will allow a much more even, smooth application. The
other big hazard for brushed glazes is a tendency to
apply it too thinly, so be sure to use enough. Use a
nice big brush (relative to the size of the piece of
course) and work quickly, and try to avoid overlapping
onto already-dried glaze edges. Mark your starting
point for each subsequent coat, so you know where you
started and how many times you've covered a given spot.

-Snail

Cindi Anderson on mon 8 dec 03


The Opulences work well brushing relatively thin I have found. (a few thin
coats) I find that when I am brushing glaze, the cheaper the brush the
better. I even have better luck with the $3 Duncan glaze brush than the $6.
The more expensive ones are supposed to hold more glaze, but they just seems
to get gummed up.

Cindi
Fremont, CA

----- Original Message -----
From: "Darnie Sizemore"
To:
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: Brushing Glaze


> Bob,
>
> My suggestion is to always rinse your piece before glazing. Also, pouring
would be a more effective way of appling your glaze.
>
> Thinning it down could be helpful, but you would have to be sure that you
have enough glaze on the piece.
>
> A large brush would probably help, less chance of small brush marks. Also
wet the brush before you put it into the glaze, it will help to keep it wet
throughout the brush stroke.
>
> Happy glazing,
> Darnie
> "Bob U." wrote:
> Hello, I would appreciate some advice on applying glaze using a brush.
> I've read the archives and still am a little confused. I have a rather
> large stoneware piece that I plan to bisque fire to cone 06 then apply
> glaze. Since the piece is large and my supply of glaze is limited, I
> thought brushing makes sense. I have attempted brushing glaze in the past
> with limited success. I found it to be difficult and frustrating. The
> glaze seems to soak in immediately leaving the brush dry. Apply an even
> coat was impossible. Also, the piece showed very noticeable brush marks
> after firing.
>
> The glaze I have is Opulence Midnight Blue which I plan to fire to cone 6.
> I have not used this glaze before and looking at it is seems very thick.
> How should I brush on this glaze? What type of brush is best? Should I
> thin the glaze or add anything to it before applying? Should I wet the
> bisqued piece first before brushing?
>
> Thanks for you help in advance.
>
> Bob U.
>
>
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____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
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>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>

Bob U. on mon 8 dec 03


Hello, I would appreciate some advice on applying glaze using a brush.
I've read the archives and still am a little confused. I have a rather
large stoneware piece that I plan to bisque fire to cone 06 then apply
glaze. Since the piece is large and my supply of glaze is limited, I
thought brushing makes sense. I have attempted brushing glaze in the past
with limited success. I found it to be difficult and frustrating. The
glaze seems to soak in immediately leaving the brush dry. Apply an even
coat was impossible. Also, the piece showed very noticeable brush marks
after firing.

The glaze I have is Opulence Midnight Blue which I plan to fire to cone 6.
I have not used this glaze before and looking at it is seems very thick.
How should I brush on this glaze? What type of brush is best? Should I
thin the glaze or add anything to it before applying? Should I wet the
bisqued piece first before brushing?

Thanks for you help in advance.

Bob U.

Darnie Sizemore on mon 8 dec 03


Bob,

My suggestion is to always rinse your piece before glazing. Also, pouring would be a more effective way of appling your glaze.

Thinning it down could be helpful, but you would have to be sure that you have enough glaze on the piece.

A large brush would probably help, less chance of small brush marks. Also wet the brush before you put it into the glaze, it will help to keep it wet throughout the brush stroke.

Happy glazing,
Darnie
"Bob U." wrote:
Hello, I would appreciate some advice on applying glaze using a brush.
I've read the archives and still am a little confused. I have a rather
large stoneware piece that I plan to bisque fire to cone 06 then apply
glaze. Since the piece is large and my supply of glaze is limited, I
thought brushing makes sense. I have attempted brushing glaze in the past
with limited success. I found it to be difficult and frustrating. The
glaze seems to soak in immediately leaving the brush dry. Apply an even
coat was impossible. Also, the piece showed very noticeable brush marks
after firing.

The glaze I have is Opulence Midnight Blue which I plan to fire to cone 6.
I have not used this glaze before and looking at it is seems very thick.
How should I brush on this glaze? What type of brush is best? Should I
thin the glaze or add anything to it before applying? Should I wet the
bisqued piece first before brushing?

Thanks for you help in advance.

Bob U.

______________________________________________________________________________
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org

You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/

Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.

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Derrick Pottery - owner - Wesley Derrick on mon 8 dec 03


I'm known around the area I work in as the frugal potter for the very
reason that I will only brush my glazes for fear of wasting a speck.

I have found that pre-dampened bisqueware will alow the brush to flow
smoother over the pc. simply because it's no longer able to soak up as much
water out of the glaze as it was able to when it was dry.
This isn't the best way for me to glaze being that I glaze pcs. just hours
before a raku firing and I want as little moisture as possible for a
quicker less stressful firing.

I have a simple homemade lazy susan (about 15" across) and i put a pc. of
newspaper on it then set my pc. on the paper..I usually pour the inside of
a pc. if possible and I do this first. If I don't have enough glaze to pour
I put a cap full (2-3 tablespoons) in the bottom of the pc and brush it up
towards the rim as fast as possible but not covering the rim. Turn the pot
upside down and while the inside is drying we start on the outside of the
piece.

Working very quickly with a fully loaded brush I begin applying the first
coat (and it does soak up fast) ...then as I spin the pc. around to meet
where I started...I begin to load the brush a little less and actually
start spreading the glaze more evenly and working wet on to wet....by the
time I make it around the pot 3 or 4 times, I've usually got a pretty nice
thick even coat.

If you work fast enough to get around to the starting point before it can
dry so that you are applying wet glaze onto damp(not wet/not dry) glaze
then you will have an easy time of getting a nice even application. You can
even smooth out any humps caused by the first coat getting sucked dry by
working and smoothing out the second coat slightly forcefully over the
humps or ridges left by the first coat. Once the first coat in on and you
begin to overlap....you'll be able to tell the difference in how your brush
drags over the pot. Much easier.

Since you probably have time to let the pc. set and dry before firing, it
sounds like pre-wetting is the way to go. This will make things a little
easier from the beginning. a good sponge bath with a more than damp sponge
should be adequate.

I use your typical oil painting brushes with natural hair. they are flat
and range from 1/4" to 1-1/2".
They are soft but flexable with a slight spring.
For me...the lazy susan and nice brushes YOU are comfortable using is the
key to easy and fast glaze application.

Keep in mind that ANY Frit based glaze is difficult to brush / difficult to
work against the fast drying factor and to keep it from balling and rolling
up under your brush. I havn't found that CMC or similar really helps these
frit glazes.

Good luck...email anytime with any questions.

Wesley Derrick
Raymond Mississippi
Derrick Pottery
verboten@netdoor.com

Shawn McGuire on mon 8 dec 03


Hey Bob-
Thinning out the glaze will help, just allow to dry completely between coats
and apply several coats (2-3 usually), I like to use a flat sable or nylon
wash brush used for watercolors and acrylic painting, loew-cornell has nice
variety packs you can purchase very affordably. Did you buy the glaze premixed or
dry? If you mixed it yourself from dry you would do well to add some brushing
medium available from your local ceramics distributor, if it came premixed it
will already have the medium in it. And your right, wet sponging off the
bisque would probably keep the glaze from drying on contact. Hope that helps..
over-and-out,
~S~

Marianne Lombardo on mon 8 dec 03


Bob,

I still brush on all of my glazes. I've tried dipping, but I like my results
better by brushing. Even two glazes that I use that are reliable and I have
a huge bucketful, I still apply by brush. Now I have never tried the
particular glaze you are using, but it does sound like you need to dampen
your bisque first. My bisque gets a real quick total rinse, inside and out,
under the tap. After maybe 5 minutes I apply the first coat, inside and
outside.

Another commercial glaze that I like, I had to thin it a bit with water and
add some CMC. I prefer to brush on 3 light coats of glaze, each coat going
a different direction, and allowing enough time between coats for each to
thoroughly dry.

Hmm, I bisque to ^04 so my pots won't aborb quite as much as yours at ^06.
You might only need two coats, you will need to test.

Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada


> Hello, I would appreciate some advice on applying glaze using a brush.

Paul Gerhold on tue 9 dec 03


Dear Bob,
Ihave ben applying all my glazes by brushing for the last twenty some years
and the most important thing I have found is to get your bisque right. What
you describe sounds to me like a too low bisque which leaves the clay too
absorbent. Raise your bisque temp to the point where the glaze absorbs fairly
slowly and you will have a much better chance of applying an even glaze coat. I try
to set my bisque and glaze consistancy so that a proper glaze thickness
requires about three glaze coats.

I also mix all my glazes with a water CMC mix made by mixing 50 grams of CMC
in a gallon of water. This mix needs to be made about a day before using so
that the CMC has a chance to dissolve.

As for brushes large areas can be done with a Hake type brush or with a soft
natural bristle paint brush.Brushing glazes is not hard, just requires
practice and most importantly the right bisque.

Good luck-Paul

Vicki Hardin on tue 9 dec 03


I have seen a person who does heavy production plates and bowls glaze on a
kick wheel using it as a banding wheel. He has his glaze in a sqirt bottle
and runs a line of glaze in front of the brush as the piece turns. Glazing
seems to go much faster that way with very even coats.

Vicki Hardin
http://ClayArtWebGuide.com

Andi Bauer on tue 9 dec 03


=20
Bob said... The glaze I have is Opulence Midnight Blue which I plan to =
fire
to cone 6. I have not used this glaze before and looking at it is seems =
very
thick. How should I brush on this glaze? What type of brush is best? =
Should
I thin the glaze or add anything to it before applying? Should I wet the
bisqued piece first before brushing?=20

Bob, I will leave the answer regarding the techniques on brushing to =
more
expert members, but just wanted to warn you that we had severe problems =
with
Opulence Blue glaze jumping off of some of the pots we had glazed with =
it
onto other pots and onto our kiln shelves and even some of the soft =
bricks
when we used it. It was a real mess, although the color of those that
didn't jump off were quite nice.=20

Andi in San Diego (but not for long ---- moving to Washington state
sooooooon!!)

=20
=20