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to wash or not? damp or dry?

updated tue 30 dec 03


Pamela Watkins on mon 29 dec 03

Hi Sam....
I wash my bisque ware, a rinse and rub with the hand -no sponge, they can tear and leave tiny pieces of sponge particle......

I wanted to respond here because, my last fire I was in a bit of a hurry and did
not dry my pieces completely before glazing and noticed that my "jaqblack"
glaze that I had newly mixed (developed from a revised frosty black from an
Alisa in Denmark post- Thanks Alisa) and was happy with the first dry fire test,
but -in a hurry- Ii was not happy with , what I considered damp dip crazing.

Reglaze with heat dry, of course, evened things out- but because the glaze
contained tin- I did not get the crystalizing that I had in the first fire and I got a pinkish hue in the second fire- thus, I contributed the damp glaze dip to the problem of the fire.

I'm curious as to how "damp" - meaning - water H2O could add "tooth" or better adherence of a glaze, as glaze contains water anyway. The fit (or tooth)
of a glaze is determined by the glaze contents and adherence is the response of the glaze to contents of the clay body , under the conditions of heat - which evaporates much of the water in the early stages of firing. Consequently, I normally dry my pieces thouroughly before glazing. Using time and a fan, if needed..........

I hope we get a thread answer from head honchos on this and thanks for posting.



Sam or Mary Yancy wrote:
I wash my bisk pieces by either flooding them with water or quick dip in water and then followed by a scrub/rub with a sponge to remove any dust or contaminations. Then a final inspection and let them dry some but still leave them a bit moist so when I apply glaze - brush /dip or spray - some miosture remains to provide a "Tooth" for the glaze to stick to. Since glaze is a mix of minerals and water, seem to me like this is a good way to get the glaze to "stick" to the piece and I rarely have any glaze problems this way. Comments?? Sam in Daly City

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