Paul on tue 30 dec 03
Does anyone know where to get good prices on bone ash? I'm not quite set up
to make it myself at this point and the best price i can get around here is
close to $3/lb., which seems a bit high to me. People who make bone china
must get better deals than that, but i don't know where. Any advice?
thanks,
Paul B
Falmouth, KY
Rob Van Rens on tue 30 dec 03
Paul,
It is possible to get a better price on Bone Ash; just buy lots of it. For
instance, if you buy a ton, you'll get MUCH less than $3/lb.
Actually, $2.50-3 is about average around here for bone ash. It's just an
expensive ingredient.
The other option, is, of course, to engage in creative recycling. One's
enemies would certainly reduce to a fine grade of bone ash, suitable for all
applications. 'Course, you'll only get a couple of pounds per person, so it
may take a while to build up a significant amount.
Rob Van Rens
Frederick Clay Art Center
5400 Yukon Ct, Unit 500
Frederick, MD 21758
(301) 371-0310
www.frederickclayartcenter.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 4:43 PM
Subject: ANYWHERE TO GET GOOD DEALS ON BONE ASH?
> Does anyone know where to get good prices on bone ash? I'm not quite set
up
> to make it myself at this point and the best price i can get around here
is
> close to $3/lb., which seems a bit high to me. People who make bone china
> must get better deals than that, but i don't know where. Any advice?
> thanks,
> Paul B
> Falmouth, KY
wayneinkeywest on tue 30 dec 03
Paul:
Check with Ebonex.com. It's a group out of Michigan, I believe. All the
usual disclaimers...no connection.
Best of Luck,
Wayne Seidl
> Does anyone know where to get good prices on bone ash? I'm not quite set
up
> to make it myself at this point and the best price i can get around here
is
> close to $3/lb., which seems a bit high to me. People who make bone china
> must get better deals than that, but i don't know where. Any advice?
> thanks,
> Paul B
> Falmouth, KY
pdp1@EARTHLINK.NET on wed 31 dec 03
Hi Tim,
My apprecuiation would be, that in theory, so far as the
possible presence of the dreaded prion, you should take care
not to breath any dusts of the Ash...otherwise, the Fireing
in the Kiln should return the little wigglers to their
Maker.
That's about it...
Phil
Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Havens"
> Is there a good deal on bone ash?All thoese mad cows? The
Pryions, pardon
> the spelling are not cooked out at the bone crushers. I do
believe that
> English gardeners are not spreading the ash around their
roses anymore.
> A fellow that attended my studio sale saw the bag of bone
ash and said that
> he would not have the stuff in his shop.
> With all that I still have it in my shop - can't get tri
calcium phosphate
> to tickle the lithium into pinching the iron orange.
> What's the word from the saftey people?
>
>
____________________________________________________________
__________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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at melpots@pclink.com.
Earl Krueger on wed 31 dec 03
On Wednesday, Dec 31, 2003, at 16:16 US/Pacific, Steve Slatin wrote:
> I'm interested in recycling some neighbors. Is it best to fire the
> entire
> neighbor, and then try to separate the bone ash
Steve,
I knew a guy once, who's brother said
he knew a guy in Detroit who said that
for $500 he would dump anyone into a
steel mill blast furnace.
Want me to look him up?
http://www.plagiarist.com/poetry/?wid=715
Earl...
Bothell, WA, USA
Jimmy Hoffa, please call home.
william schran on wed 31 dec 03
Paul wrote:>Does anyone know where to get good prices on bone ash?<
U. S. Pigment < http//:www.uspigment.com > has natural bone ash for
$2.50 per 1 pound down to $1.50 per pound at 50 pounds.
Bill
Ivor on wed 31 dec 03
I use Bone Ash in glazes and have recently burned my fingers.
An old reliable glaze started to misbehave.
After several rounds of tests it, became clear that all Bone Ashes
are not equal. Some worked and some didn't. For this glaze, I
have to stick to certain Bone Ash suppliers, if I am to get the result
I have grown used to over recent years.
I now test samples before mixing up new batches.
Ivor
Ivor J Townshend
Macclesfield UK
Laurie Kneppel on wed 31 dec 03
On Dec 31, 2003, at 10:26 AM, Ivor wrote:
>
> After several rounds of tests it, became clear that all Bone Ashes
> are not equal. Some worked and some didn't.
I had this happen with some bone ash from a local chemical supplier.
They got some bone ash in that was different from the usual stuff. When
used in your copper matte type raku glazes they would go gloss or
semi-gloss. They had to label it "not for raku".
One of my favorite raku glaze recipes is Clement Dolphin Blue from
Robert Piepenberg's Raku book. When I mixed it with this "other" bone
ash I would still get the same colors, only with a shine to them that I
really liked! So I went back and bought another 20 pounds or so of the
"not for raku" bone ash. By then they had some "regular" bone ash in
again, but still had some of the fun stuff, too.
I never realized before that happened that something like bone ash
could be so variable. But at least it was a "happy accident"!
Laurie
Sacramento, CA
Steve Slatin on wed 31 dec 03
Rob --
I'm interested in recycling some neighbors. Is it best to fire the =
entire
neighbor, and then try to separate the bone ash, or to fillet them first =
and
fire only the bones? Does one use an oxidation or reduction atmosphere?
Is it best to 'soak' the neighbor at peak temperature, or do you crash =
cool?
Inquiring minds want to know!
-- Steve Slatin
>The other option, is, of course, to engage in creative recycling. =
One's
>enemies would certainly reduce to a fine grade of bone ash, suitable =
for
>all
>applications. 'Course, you'll only get a couple of pounds per person, =
so
>it
>may take a while to build up a significant amount.
>
>Rob Van Rens
Tim Havens on wed 31 dec 03
Is there a good deal on bone ash?All thoese mad cows? The Pryions, pardon
the spelling are not cooked out at the bone crushers. I do believe that
English gardeners are not spreading the ash around their roses anymore.
A fellow that attended my studio sale saw the bag of bone ash and said that
he would not have the stuff in his shop.
With all that I still have it in my shop - can't get tri calcium phosphate
to tickle the lithium into pinching the iron orange.
What's the word from the saftey people?
Lee Love on thu 1 jan 04
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Havens"
> Is there a good deal on bone ash?All thoese mad cows? The Pryions, pardon
> the spelling are not cooked out at the bone crushers.
Are they present in bones? I don't know. Maybe we've learned the
lesson that it isn't good to feed herbivores their own brains...
'Be good to the cow, for she is our companion."
Standing By Word --Wendell
Berry
--
Lee In Mashiko, Japan
http://Mashiko.org
Web Log (click on recent date):
http://www.livejournal.com/users/togeika/calendar
wayneinkeywest on thu 1 jan 04
Steve:
One should fire neighbors using a reduction atmosphere _only_!
An oxidation atmosphere will allow the neighbor to continue
consciousness well into the firing cycle, and I have to admit,
the screams are QUITE annoying, as is the wear and tear
on the lid hinges from them trying to open the kiln lid.
Running over them first with the lawn tractor will usually
do a sufficient job of removing the
flesh from the bone, or you can do as a neighbor in CT did,
and run them through a wood chipper.
Just don't use a rented wood chipper :>)
Crash cool or not, as you will, the neighbor won't care.
Wayne Seidl
I'm interested in recycling some neighbors. Is it best to fire the entire
neighbor, and then try to separate the bone ash, or to fillet them first and
fire only the bones? Does one use an oxidation or reduction atmosphere?
Is it best to 'soak' the neighbor at peak temperature, or do you crash cool?
Inquiring minds want to know!
-- Steve Slatin
>The other option, is, of course, to engage in creative recycling. One's
>enemies would certainly reduce to a fine grade of bone ash, suitable for
>all
>applications. 'Course, you'll only get a couple of pounds per person, so
>it
>may take a while to build up a significant amount.
>
>Rob Van Rens
____________________________________________________________________________
__
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Craig Edwards on thu 1 jan 04
Hello Tim: Glad to see that you are still well and kickin.
I believe that much of the bone ash that we use is synthetic. Anyway
you can get man made stuff from here
http://www.murlinchemical.com/syn1.html
I had a good friend, David Ames who decided to make his own bone ash,
when he attended the Kansas City Art Institute. He got a couple of
garbage sacks full of cow bones from the meat plants, and fired them in
one of the kilns. Very disgusting to say the least, if you were not
vegetarian it quickly made you one, or maybe a regurgitation.
Cheers
Craig Edwards
New London
Tim Havens wrote:
>Is there a good deal on bone ash?All thoese mad cows? The Pryions, pardon
>the spelling are not cooked out at the bone crushers. I do believe that
>English gardeners are not spreading the ash around their roses anymore.
>A fellow that attended my studio sale saw the bag of bone ash and said that
>he would not have the stuff in his shop.
>With all that I still have it in my shop - can't get tri calcium phosphate
>to tickle the lithium into pinching the iron orange.
>What's the word from the saftey people?
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
william schran on thu 1 jan 04
Laurie wrote:>I had this happen with some bone ash from a local
chemical supplier.
They got some bone ash in that was different from the usual stuff.<
Need to specify when ordering bone ash whether you want synthetic or
natural bone ash.
Bill
Gail Phillips on thu 1 jan 04
Wayne -
John wants to know if you have to have the mulching kit installed on the
mower. He says, "Otherwise, the bones will be thrown all about the yard". I
think he has a point.
Happy New Year!
- Gail
> Running over them first with the lawn tractor will usually
> do a sufficient job of removing the
> flesh from the bone, or you can do as a neighbor in CT did,
> and run them through a wood chipper.
> Just don't use a rented wood chipper :>)
> Wayne Seidl
>
> I'm interested in recycling some neighbors. Is it best to fire the entire
> neighbor, and then try to separate the bone ash, or to fillet them first and
> fire only the bones? Does one use an oxidation or reduction atmosphere?
> Is it best to 'soak' the neighbor at peak temperature, or do you crash cool?
>
> Inquiring minds want to know!
>
> -- Steve Slatin
>
>
> >The other option, is, of course, to engage in creative recycling. One's
> >enemies would certainly reduce to a fine grade of bone ash, suitable for
> >all
> >applications. 'Course, you'll only get a couple of pounds per person, so
> >it
> >may take a while to build up a significant amount.
> >
> >Rob Van Rens
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________
> __
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Sam or Mary Yancy on thu 1 jan 04
If I did this would I get Mad Neighbors disease? Sam
wayneinkeywest wrote:
Steve:
One should fire neighbors using a reduction atmosphere _only_!
An oxidation atmosphere will allow the neighbor to continue
consciousness well into the firing cycle, and I have to admit,
the screams are QUITE annoying, as is the wear and tear
on the lid hinges from them trying to open the kiln lid.
Running over them first with the lawn tractor will usually
do a sufficient job of removing the
flesh from the bone, or you can do as a neighbor in CT did,
and run them through a wood chipper.
Just don't use a rented wood chipper :>)
Crash cool or not, as you will, the neighbor won't care.
Wayne Seidl
I'm interested in recycling some neighbors. Is it best to fire the entire
neighbor, and then try to separate the bone ash, or to fillet them first and
fire only the bones? Does one use an oxidation or reduction atmosphere?
Is it best to 'soak' the neighbor at peak temperature, or do you crash cool?
Inquiring minds want to know!
-- Steve Slatin
>The other option, is, of course, to engage in creative recycling. One's
>enemies would certainly reduce to a fine grade of bone ash, suitable for
>all
>applications. 'Course, you'll only get a couple of pounds per person, so
>it
>may take a while to build up a significant amount.
>
>Rob Van Rens
Logan Oplinger on fri 2 jan 04
On Wed, 31 Dec 2003 19:50:07 -0500, Tim Havens wrote:
>Is there a good deal on bone ash?All thoese mad cows? The Pryions, pardon
>the spelling are not cooked out at the bone crushers. I do believe that
>English gardeners are not spreading the ash around their roses anymore.
>A fellow that attended my studio sale saw the bag of bone ash and said that
>he would not have the stuff in his shop.
>With all that I still have it in my shop - can't get tri calcium phosphate
>to tickle the lithium into pinching the iron orange.
>What's the word from the saftey people?
>
Hello Tim,
If you can't get bone ash from your pottery supplier, try your nearest
agricultural/garden supply store. Ask for super or triple super phosphate.
These are SOLUBLE forms of calcium phosphate, but may work for you. They
are commonly sold in 50 lb. bags, but may be available in smaller 1 lb. or
5 lb. quantities.
For info on what these are and how they are different, go to:
http://www.citycollegiate.com/industry1.htm
http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/month.200211/msg00649.html
Note: Triple Super Phosphate is sometimes abbreviated as TSP. This is NOT
the same as the cleaner tri-sodium phosphate, which is also abbreviated as
TSP.
In "fertilizer code", Triple Super Phosphate is 0-45-0, or, available
0%nitrogen-45%phosphorous-0%potassium.
Logan Oplinger
Another Tropical Island
Rob Van Rens on fri 2 jan 04
Wayne -
I've always gotten the best results by quartering the neighbor, then piling
the pieces in a LARGE bisque-fired bowl...be sure to candle overnight, to
remove the copious amounts of water. No soak at temperature is needed, and
crash-cooling is fine.
As far as the wood-chipper goes, it works quite well, but is unneccessary
and extraordinarily messy. A chain saw and a heavy cleaver are all you
really need.
Rob Van Rens
Frederick Clay Art Center
5400 Yukon Ct, Unit 500
Frederick, MD 21758
(301) 371-0310
www.frederickclayartcenter.com
>
> > Wayne Seidl
> >
> > I'm interested in recycling some neighbors. Is it best to fire the
entire
> > neighbor, and then try to separate the bone ash, or to fillet them first
and
> > fire only the bones? Does one use an oxidation or reduction atmosphere?
> > Is it best to 'soak' the neighbor at peak temperature, or do you crash
cool?
> >
> > Inquiring minds want to know!
> >
> > -- Steve Slatin
> >
> >
> > >The other option, is, of course, to engage in creative recycling.
One's
> > >enemies would certainly reduce to a fine grade of bone ash, suitable
for
> > >all
> > >applications. 'Course, you'll only get a couple of pounds per person,
so
> > >it
> > >may take a while to build up a significant amount.
> > >
> > >Rob Van Rens
> >
> >
____________________________________________________________________________
> > __
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> > melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
wayneinkeywest on fri 2 jan 04
Not if those neighbors were the ones you "recycled" :>)
> If I did this would I get Mad Neighbors disease? Sam
>
> wayneinkeywest
> Steve:
> One should fire neighbors using a reduction atmosphere _only_!
> An oxidation atmosphere will allow the neighbor to continue
> consciousness well into the firing cycle, and I have to admit,
> the screams are QUITE annoying, as is the wear and tear
> on the lid hinges from them trying to open the kiln lid.
>
> Running over them first with the lawn tractor will usually
> do a sufficient job of removing the
> flesh from the bone, or you can do as a neighbor in CT did,
> and run them through a wood chipper.
> Just don't use a rented wood chipper :>)
>
> Crash cool or not, as you will, the neighbor won't care.
> Wayne Seidl
>
> I'm interested in recycling some neighbors. Is it best to fire the entire
> neighbor, and then try to separate the bone ash, or to fillet them first
and
> fire only the bones? Does one use an oxidation or reduction atmosphere?
> Is it best to 'soak' the neighbor at peak temperature, or do you crash
cool?
>
> Inquiring minds want to know!
>
> -- Steve Slatin
>
>
> >The other option, is, of course, to engage in creative recycling. One's
> >enemies would certainly reduce to a fine grade of bone ash, suitable for
> >all
> >applications. 'Course, you'll only get a couple of pounds per person, so
> >it
> >may take a while to build up a significant amount.
> >
> >Rob Van Rens
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
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