Christine Caswell on wed 14 jan 04
Hello all,
I am using a satin white cone 10 "decorator's white" glaze from one of =
Tom Coleman's books. I am brushing oxides and stains mixed with laguna =
borate. The colors are nice and they are melting into the glaze nicely- =
the way I'd hoped- but they are sort of difficult to brush on. Is there =
anything I can add that would help brushability (and possibly make them =
more smudgeproof)? I have thought about gum arabic but thought that =
some of you out there might have just the solution I'm looking for. I =
haven't tested anything yet. So far it is just stain, laguna borate, =
and water. =20
Also I am working on a design using the above ingredients for a colored =
pattern on a blue background. Is there any trick (other than painting =
all the color then waxing it out then painting the blue) to getting the =
blue background less splotchy? I imagine that when I find a substance =
that will make it more "brushable" it will improve somewhat but part of =
the splotchiness is due to having to paint around an intricate design.
Thanks for any words of wisdom!
-Christine
(In Maine where right now 20 degrees F sounds warm!)
John K Dellow on thu 15 jan 04
Christine Caswell wrote:
>Hello all,
>
>I am using a satin white cone 10 "decorator's white" glaze from one of Tom Coleman's books. I am brushing oxides and stains mixed with laguna borate. The colors are nice and they are melting into the glaze nicely- the way I'd hoped- but they are sort of difficult to brush on. Is there anything I can add that would help brushability (and possibly make them more smudgeproof)?
>
Try adding honey.
John Dellow "the flower pot man"
From the land down under
Home Page http://www.welcome.to/jkdellow
http://digitalfire.com/education/people/dellow/
Jennifer Boyer on thu 15 jan 04
Try getting some glycerin. It's liquid and is available at drug stores.
Don't use too much or your colors will get transparent. Also make sure
you spray water on your glaze right before you brush oxides on it. That
eliminates drag. You might want to experiment with your white glaze as
well: you don't want a glaze that's powdery. And keep your oxide
solution thin.
Jennifer in the arctic
On Wednesday, January 14, 2004, at 07:55 PM, Christine Caswell wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I am using a satin white cone 10 "decorator's white" glaze from one of
> =
> Tom Coleman's books. I am brushing oxides and stains mixed with
> laguna =
> borate. The colors are nice and they are melting into the glaze
> nicely- =
> the way I'd hoped- but they are sort of difficult to brush on. Is
> there =
> anything I can add that would help brushability (and possibly make
> them =
> more smudgeproof)? I have thought about gum arabic but thought that =
> some of you out there might have just the solution I'm looking for. I
> =
> haven't tested anything yet. So far it is just stain, laguna borate, =
> and water. =20
>
> Also I am working on a design using the above ingredients for a
> colored =
> pattern on a blue background. Is there any trick (other than painting
> =
> all the color then waxing it out then painting the blue) to getting
> the =
> blue background less splotchy? I imagine that when I find a substance
> =
> that will make it more "brushable" it will improve somewhat but part
> of =
> the splotchiness is due to having to paint around an intricate design.
>
> Thanks for any words of wisdom!
>
> -Christine
> (In Maine where right now 20 degrees F sounds warm!)
>
> _______________________________________________________________________
> _______
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
***********************************************
never pass on virus warnings or emails without checking them at:
http://snopes.com
Jennifer Boyer - Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT 05602
http://thistlehillpottery.com
***********************************************
Jennifer Boyer on fri 16 jan 04
Since frits are insoluble maybe the 3124 gave the solution a more fluid
feel?
Yes, I'm coming to NCECA.... can't wait!
Jennifer, so happy that Joyce will be there...
On Friday, January 16, 2004, at 04:28 AM, Russel Fouts wrote:
>
> Hi Jennifer, coming to NCECA this year?
>
> >> Try getting some glycerin. It's liquid and is available at drug
> stores. Don't use too much or your colors will get transparent. Also
> make sure you spray water on your glaze right before you brush oxides
> on it. That eliminates drag. You might want to experiment with your
> white glaze as well: you don't want a glaze that's powdery. And keep
> your oxide solution thin. <<
>
> I had a strange experience with this. I was brushing mason stains onto
> a dry miolica glaze and couldn't get a brush stroke longer than about
> an inch and a half. The mix was 1 part color, 1 part glycerin (I also
> tried less glycerine) and 1 part wet glaze (the same glaze as the
> underlying glaze. Tried with and without opacifier (zircon silicate)).
> I also tested with and without the 1 part wet glaze. Nothing seemed to
> work, the brushstokes were still really short.
>
> I also tested it on freshly glazed tiles and tiles that had dried for
> a day. No difference.
>
> The thing I found made all the difference was replacing the 1 part wet
> glaze with 1 part dry Ferro frit 3124, nice long strokes. I used 3124
> because it's the main component of the maiolica glaze I'm using. The
> colors also look better when they're fired.
>
> Why did adding another dry ingredient help the brushability?
>
> Thanks everyone in advance.
>
> Russel
>
>
>
>
***********************************************
never pass on virus warnings or emails without checking them at:
http://snopes.com
Jennifer Boyer - Thistle Hill Pottery
Montpelier, VT 05602
http://thistlehillpottery.com
***********************************************
Russel Fouts on fri 16 jan 04
Hi Jennifer, coming to NCECA this year?
>> Try getting some glycerin. It's liquid and is available at drug stores.
Don't use too much or your colors will get transparent. Also make sure you
spray water on your glaze right before you brush oxides on it. That
eliminates drag. You might want to experiment with your white glaze as
well: you don't want a glaze that's powdery. And keep your oxide solution
thin. <<
I had a strange experience with this. I was brushing mason stains onto a
dry miolica glaze and couldn't get a brush stroke longer than about an inch
and a half. The mix was 1 part color, 1 part glycerin (I also tried less
glycerine) and 1 part wet glaze (the same glaze as the underlying glaze.
Tried with and without opacifier (zircon silicate)). I also tested with and
without the 1 part wet glaze. Nothing seemed to work, the brushstokes were
still really short.
I also tested it on freshly glazed tiles and tiles that had dried for a
day. No difference.
The thing I found made all the difference was replacing the 1 part wet
glaze with 1 part dry Ferro frit 3124, nice long strokes. I used 3124
because it's the main component of the maiolica glaze I'm using. The colors
also look better when they're fired.
Why did adding another dry ingredient help the brushability?
Thanks everyone in advance.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
Http://www.mypots.com
Home of "The Potters Portal"
Over 2300 Pottery Related Links!
Updated frequently
My work can also be seen on:
The World Crafts Council International Site: http://www.wccwis.gr
The World Crafts Council Belgium Site: http://wcc-bf.org (English Pages)
EasyCraft: http://www.easycraft.org
"To announce that there must be no criticism of the president, or that
we are to stand by the president, right or wrong, is not only
unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American
public." --U.S. President (and Nobel Peace Prize winner) Theodore
Roosevelt.
Elaine Ray on fri 16 jan 04
When I was taught Majolica technique (At ClayMakers in Durham, NC) we made
all of the stains with approximately 1/2 colorant and 1/2 frit plus water.
My instructor also coached us to use brushes with a "well" (I forget the
name of the brushes) and make sure to get stain up into the well. We dipped
the brush into the stain, then turned the brush over (tip up in the air) so
the liquid ran up into the well, then turned it back before making a stroke.
This allowed for fairly long strokes before the stain ran out.
Elaine Ray
Raleigh, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russel Fouts"
To:
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2004 4:28 AM
Subject: Re: Brushing oxides and stains
>
> The thing I found made all the difference was replacing the 1 part wet
> glaze with 1 part dry Ferro frit 3124, nice long strokes. I used 3124
> because it's the main component of the maiolica glaze I'm using. The
colors
> also look better when they're fired.
>
> Why did adding another dry ingredient help the brushability?>
>
> Russel Fouts
> Mes Potes & Mes Pots
> Brussels, Belgium
> Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
> Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
>
> Http://www.mypots.com
> Home of "The Potters Portal"
> Over 2300 Pottery Related Links!
> Updated frequently
>
> My work can also be seen on:
> The World Crafts Council International Site: http://www.wccwis.gr
> The World Crafts Council Belgium Site: http://wcc-bf.org (English Pages)
> EasyCraft: http://www.easycraft.org
>
> "To announce that there must be no criticism of the president, or that
> we are to stand by the president, right or wrong, is not only
> unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American
> public." --U.S. President (and Nobel Peace Prize winner) Theodore
> Roosevelt.
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Lesley Alexander on fri 16 jan 04
It seems to me Vivika Heino sprayed a mixture of CMC gum and water sometimes
before painting designson glaze, or did she secure the designs that way
before glazing over them? Anyone else? Lesley in Santa Barbara
Marianne Lombardo on fri 16 jan 04
What are brushes with a "well"? Can you describe this because I don't think
I know what you mean. Thanks.
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
> My instructor also coached us to use brushes with a "well" (I forget the
> name of the brushes) and make sure to get stain up into the well. We
dipped
> the brush into the stain, then turned the brush over (tip up in the air)
so
> the liquid ran up into the well, then turned it back before making a
stroke.
Bonnie Staffel on sat 17 jan 04
Dear Clayarters,
I have worked with these materials all the time for eons, it seems. To keep
the base glaze from being powdery, I mix CMC 1/4 of 1% or .0025 of the total
glaze materials weight, mixing dry into one of the dry ingredients before
adding to the hot water. This deflocculates my glaze so that it does not
settle as well as giving me a hard smooth surface by dipping. Then I put a
few drops of mucilage ( the kind we used to use in school) into the Mason
Stain/frit mixture. This makes your color so that it does not smear when
you handle your work. You cannot brush over sprayed glazes as the surface
is too pebbly, IMHO.
Bonnie Staffel, Charlevoix
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