Ditmar on fri 23 jan 04
Not Marc or Arnold....but
I ran across a similar sounding problem at the art center I work with.
Someone donated a kiln that lived outside for a while. Right after it was
installed, everyone would get a mild shock and things were just plain
screwy. I suggested they fire it low and long to drive moisture out of the
insulating brick.
After all, the elements are sitting in grooves, in the moist brick
Once the moisture was driven off, no more conductivity and no more shocks.
Worked fine since.
Ditmar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Fulladosa"
To:
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 3:10 PM
Subject: Kiln shorting out?
> Marc or Arnold or anyone else can help here.
>
> I unfortunately have to keep my electrics outside until I can afford an
> indoor studio. Kiln used to heat up fairly well. Been a yuear or so since
> last firing and doesn't get hot. Lights on control switches come on. Put
> matches on elements to check and only bottom most elements lit matches. I
> can feel slight shock if I accidently touch elements when loading and kiln
> is plugged in (not too bright either, am I). I know I could probably use
new
> elements but I am very poor right now. Would like to try and get elements
> working with paper clip and chewing gum remedy for now. My hard luck story
> is too long to share and you all might not want to heaqr it anyway. I
> appreciate any help whatsover. Kiln is a Cress Cone 6 square top loader
not
> sure what model about 18 inches cubed inside dimensions. Tanks. Email me
> directly if you want.
> Craig
> the Clayman
> not the kilnman
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
> http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Paul Gaskins on fri 23 jan 04
Craig,
Several things you might check. If you have the owners manual for the
kiln, there should be a dianogstic troubleshooting section. The elements
can be evaluated by their resistance using a simple ohm meter (with the
POWER OFF and unit UNPLUGGED). The acceptable range and method for checking
the elements should be outlined. If you do not have the manual, try looking
for the manufacturer's web site for such information or do it the old
fashioned way and call them.
Another possible problem might be corrosion in the switches since they are
exposed to outside humidity. If your elements check out okay, I would
suspect the switches. They are usually not too expensive to replace (on my
kiln - about $20.00 ea).
Good luck and be careful.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Fulladosa"
To:
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2004 8:10 PM
Subject: Kiln shorting out?
> Marc or Arnold or anyone else can help here.
>
> I unfortunately have to keep my electrics outside until I can afford an
> indoor studio. Kiln used to heat up fairly well. Been a yuear or so since
> last firing and doesn't get hot. Lights on control switches come on. Put
> matches on elements to check and only bottom most elements lit matches. I
> can feel slight shock if I accidently touch elements when loading and kiln
> is plugged in (not too bright either, am I). I know I could probably use
new
> elements but I am very poor right now. Would like to try and get elements
> working with paper clip and chewing gum remedy for now. My hard luck story
> is too long to share and you all might not want to heaqr it anyway. I
> appreciate any help whatsover. Kiln is a Cress Cone 6 square top loader
not
> sure what model about 18 inches cubed inside dimensions. Tanks. Email me
> directly if you want.
> Craig
> the Clayman
> not the kilnman
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
> http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
Craig Fulladosa on fri 23 jan 04
Marc or Arnold or anyone else can help here.
I unfortunately have to keep my electrics outside until I can afford an
indoor studio. Kiln used to heat up fairly well. Been a yuear or so since
last firing and doesn't get hot. Lights on control switches come on. Put
matches on elements to check and only bottom most elements lit matches. I
can feel slight shock if I accidently touch elements when loading and kiln
is plugged in (not too bright either, am I). I know I could probably use new
elements but I am very poor right now. Would like to try and get elements
working with paper clip and chewing gum remedy for now. My hard luck story
is too long to share and you all might not want to heaqr it anyway. I
appreciate any help whatsover. Kiln is a Cress Cone 6 square top loader not
sure what model about 18 inches cubed inside dimensions. Tanks. Email me
directly if you want.
Craig
the Clayman
not the kilnman
_________________________________________________________________
Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
william schran on sat 24 jan 04
Craig wrote:>Put matches on elements to check and only bottom most
elements lit matches. I
can feel slight shock if I accidently touch elements when loading and
kiln is plugged in (not too bright either, am I). <
You may have an element coming in contact with the metal skin
(exterior) of the kiln. Unplug the kiln, remove control box (es) and
look to see if any of the insulators between the elements and metal
jacket have fallen allowing the element to touch the metal - probably
will be a burned spot there. You may just have to push the insulator
back in place.
Bill
John Rodgers on sat 24 jan 04
Craig, I can't help with the kiln problem, but......
If you feel a slight shock,
ABSOLUTELY DO NO TOUCH, WORK ON, OR WORK WITH THE KILN WHILE IT IS
PLUGGED IN!!!!
I can't emphasize that enough.
You have at least 45 amps available to the kiln, 220/240 Volts to push
it and probably on the order of 12-13,000 Watts of power and THAT WILL
KILL YOU DEAD, DEAD, DEAD if it is not applied to the right place. A
short of any kind is an application of all that power/electricity to the
wrong place.
Get some competent electrical help from somebody. A shorted kiln is a
dangerous thing.
Best of luck to you.
Be Safe,
Regards,
John Rodgers
Chelsea, AL
Craig Fulladosa wrote:
> Marc or Arnold or anyone else can help here.
>
> I unfortunately have to keep my electrics outside until I can afford an
> indoor studio. Kiln used to heat up fairly well. Been a yuear or so since
> last firing and doesn't get hot. Lights on control switches come on. Put
> matches on elements to check and only bottom most elements lit matches. I
> can feel slight shock if I accidently touch elements when loading and
> kiln
> is plugged in (not too bright either, am I). I know I could probably
> use new
> elements but I am very poor right now. Would like to try and get elements
> working with paper clip and chewing gum remedy for now. My hard luck
> story
> is too long to share and you all might not want to heaqr it anyway. I
> appreciate any help whatsover. Kiln is a Cress Cone 6 square top
> loader not
> sure what model about 18 inches cubed inside dimensions. Tanks. Email me
> directly if you want.
> Craig
> the Clayman
> not the kilnman
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers!
> http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Arnold Howard on mon 26 jan 04
From: "Craig Fulladosa"
> I unfortunately have to keep my electrics outside until I can afford an
> indoor studio. Kiln used to heat up fairly well. Been a yuear or so since
> last firing and doesn't get hot. Lights on control switches come on. Put
> matches on elements to check and only bottom most elements lit matches..
Craig, I'm not familiar with your kiln, so I can offer only a guess at the
solution. I would first check the wiring inside the switch box. Unplug the
kiln, remove the switch box, and examine the wires for corrosion. Use a
wiring diagram to trace the connections from the switches to the elements.
If connections are corroded, try cleaning or replacing wire terminals. If
push-on terminals are loose, you can tighten them with pliers. I would not
be surprised if your kiln problem were merely a disconnected or corroded
wire.
If the wiring checks out okay, I would check each element with an ohmmeter.
The results of the match test that you've performed may not be an indication
of a broken element. You might have a bad switch rather than a broken
element. To test the elements with an ohmmeter, you do not have to remove
the wires going to the element terminals. (Unless you have more than one
wire going to each element end. In that case you will have to remove the
multiple wires from one element end.)
Make sure that the ohmmeter probes have good contact with a clean spot on
the terminals or element ends.
Once you've found the problem, you can probably get your kiln running at
minimal cost.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P.
arnoldhoward@att.net
Marcia Selsor on mon 26 jan 04
Unplug the kiln.
Take some sandpaper and sand the connections between the elements and
the switches. They may have gotten a little rutsy or oxidized while
sitting outside unused. BUT UNPLUG THE KILN FIRST.
Marcia Selsor
| |
|
