Mary on sun 1 feb 04
Hi,
Relatively new to the forum, I find many of your discussions very =
helpful and inciteful.
I have read the various comments about the use of Mason Stains and =
wondered if someone could help me with a quandry I'm currently facing.
A customer would like a beanpot, to be used in a solar oven; her request =
is that it be:
1) black
2) no shine
I had planned to glaze the inside with a clear, the outside with iron =
oxide and fire to cone 5. My concern is with the fact there will be no =
glaze on the outside of this pot and I suspect it's not the way to go =
for functional ware.
I checked with my Laguna distributer who has suggested I use a black =
underglaze with a flat, clear overglaze in a satin. Is that the only =
option, and is it a legitimate solution? Will the light refract from =
the object rather than be absorbed, given the "glass" component?
While I hope, eventually, to begin mixing my own glazes, I'm currently =
at the mercy of existing products.
Would appreciate any help you can give. My thought is that she would be =
better served if she uses an old-fashioned, black iron cooking pot.
Thank you,
Mary
Paul Herman on sun 1 feb 04
Mary,
I have made many pots for sun ovens, and sell them each summer at the
Solar Cookoff in Taylorsville, California.
I've come to the conclusion that any brown or black glaze works just
fine. After trying them all in my own sun oven, the shinyness doesn't
slow it down much, if at all.
Best wishes,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
http://www.greatbasinpottery.com/
----------
>From: Mary
> Hi,
>
> Relatively new to the forum, I find many of your discussions very helpful
> and inciteful.
>
> I have read the various comments about the use of Mason Stains and wondered
> if someone could help me with a quandry I'm currently facing.
>
> A customer would like a beanpot, to be used in a solar oven; her request is
> that it be:
>
> 1) black
> 2) no shine
>
> I had planned to glaze the inside with a clear, the outside with iron oxide
> and fire to cone 5. My concern is with the fact there will be no glaze on
> the outside of this pot and I suspect it's not the way to go for functional
> ware.
>
> I checked with my Laguna distributer who has suggested I use a black
> underglaze with a flat, clear overglaze in a satin. Is that the only
> option, and is it a legitimate solution? Will the light refract from the
> object rather than be absorbed, given the "glass" component?
>
> While I hope, eventually, to begin mixing my own glazes, I'm currently at
> the mercy of existing products.
>
> Would appreciate any help you can give. My thought is that she would be
> better served if she uses an old-fashioned, black iron cooking pot.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Mary
>
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melpots@pclink.com.
>
Bonnie Staffel on mon 2 feb 04
Hi Clayarters,
I have found that the Blackbird Slip or Barnard Clay (both mean the same
material) makes a wonderful black glaze with little sheen if you mix it with
Whiting. I made tests from 5%, 10% and 15%. The more whiting, the more
gloss. As you know, being an earth material, you should make your own test
with the material you have received from your supplier. I have used Barnard
Clay for years with no bad results. I fire to Cone 9 oxidation. IF you
fire at a lower temperature, then you need to test it for yourself. Good
luck.
Regards, Bonnie Staffel, in northern Michigan where the sun is shining and
the birds are feeding at my window.
http://pws.chartermi.net/~bstaffel/contactlinks.htm
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