Kathryn & Stuart Fields on sun 1 feb 04
Mary,
Is she trying to recreate an old tan and dark brown/black bean pot for
Boston Baked Beans? If so, you're looking for a completely different look
from black, even flat black.
Kathy, Inyokern, CA
sfkf@iwvisp.com
www.vkss.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG]On Behalf Of Paul Herman
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 9:18 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: flat black glaze
Mary,
I have made many pots for sun ovens, and sell them each summer at the
Solar Cookoff in Taylorsville, California.
I've come to the conclusion that any brown or black glaze works just
fine. After trying them all in my own sun oven, the shinyness doesn't
slow it down much, if at all.
Best wishes,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
http://www.greatbasinpottery.com/
----------
>From: Mary
> Hi,
>
> Relatively new to the forum, I find many of your discussions very helpful
> and inciteful.
>
> I have read the various comments about the use of Mason Stains and
wondered
> if someone could help me with a quandry I'm currently facing.
>
> A customer would like a beanpot, to be used in a solar oven; her request
is
> that it be:
>
> 1) black
> 2) no shine
>
> I had planned to glaze the inside with a clear, the outside with iron
oxide
> and fire to cone 5. My concern is with the fact there will be no glaze on
> the outside of this pot and I suspect it's not the way to go for
functional
> ware.
>
> I checked with my Laguna distributer who has suggested I use a black
> underglaze with a flat, clear overglaze in a satin. Is that the only
> option, and is it a legitimate solution? Will the light refract from the
> object rather than be absorbed, given the "glass" component?
>
> While I hope, eventually, to begin mixing my own glazes, I'm currently at
> the mercy of existing products.
>
> Would appreciate any help you can give. My thought is that she would be
> better served if she uses an old-fashioned, black iron cooking pot.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Mary
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
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>
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>
____________________________________________________________________________
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Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
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piedpotterhamelin@COMCAST.NET on mon 2 feb 04
If your cone 5 clay body is fully mature at this temp, then I suggest that you simply take your clay body and make trials of a slip mixed with enough black iron (this will be safer to use than manganese and will flux the slip)until you get the color that you are happy with. If you do need to melt it some more, adding ferro frit 3110,neph sy or some other low temp melter to help you.Slip glzze is what you need. Pics would be great to seelater!
Good luck
Rick
--
"Many a wiser men than I hath
gone to pot." 1649
Mary on tue 3 feb 04
Oops, one more question. Are you saying that the slip will be sufficient
without an overglaze?
M
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: FW: flat black glaze
> If your cone 5 clay body is fully mature at this temp, then I suggest
that you simply take your clay body and make trials of a slip mixed with
enough black iron (this will be safer to use than manganese and will flux
the slip)until you get the color that you are happy with. If you do need to
melt it some more, adding ferro frit 3110,neph sy or some other low temp
melter to help you.Slip glzze is what you need. Pics would be great to
seelater!
> Good luck
> Rick
>
> --
> "Many a wiser men than I hath
> gone to pot." 1649
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
>
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