william schran on tue 17 feb 04
May wrote: >1-Regarding the lid in the glaze firing, I'm not sure if
I should have it
sit on the pot to fire- can't think it thru whether the lid would be
okay-looking without glaze
2-Any ideas of how to build a gallery for the lid in the future?<
If there's a bit of slop/wiggle room in the fit of the lid, go ahead
and glaze the top and fire lid separately.
How about a circular open slab attached from underneath to create the gallery.
Bill
May Luk on tue 17 feb 04
Hi all;
I have handbuilt a few teapots "Mah-Kats / Marquettes (??!?)" and I'm about
to glaze fire. For the handbuilders who do teapots, can you take a look at
this:
http://yamerica.users.btopenworld.com/Maybeware/Maybeware.html
1-Regarding the lid in the glaze firing, I'm not sure if I should have it
sit on the pot to fire- can't think it thru whether the lid would be
okay-looking without glaze
2-Any ideas of how to build a gallery for the lid in the future?
3-For firing porcelain, I only have silica hydrate, this is not the same as
silica sand, no? I had fired some little test cups without sand and it was
okay. Can I skip it? Like just leave the porcelain pot onto the bat washed
bat? Plan on going to cone 7/8
Many thanks in advance
May
London, UK.
P.S. For the clay absorption test. The noisy one I just did; I had boiled
for 20 mins, soaked overnite and I took the reading as is.
If I were to do it again, will settle on putting clay block in sewn cloth
pocket and steam chicken and/or dim sum on top.
Antoinette Badenhorst on wed 18 feb 04
Throw or coil a little rim that you can attach on top of the opening of
the pot itself so that the lid will be somewhat raised. Shape the lid to
fit the adjustment. Leave that as well as the underside of the lid
unglazed. At ^ 7-8 the two will probably not stick to each other, but I
will still not risk it. Use silica of any # to keep it separated. I used
to mix my silica/calsinied aluminia with cmc, but got an easier tip to
wax and then simply dip the waxed part in silica or other refractory
material. That is much easier and just as effective.
Show us when it is done.
Antoinette Badenhorst
105 Westwood Circle
Saltillo MS
38866
662 869 1651
www.clayandcanvas.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of May Luk
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2004 5:24 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Technique:Hand built porcelain and firing
Hi all;
I have handbuilt a few teapots "Mah-Kats / Marquettes (??!?)" and I'm
about
to glaze fire. For the handbuilders who do teapots, can you take a look
at
this:
http://yamerica.users.btopenworld.com/Maybeware/Maybeware.html
1-Regarding the lid in the glaze firing, I'm not sure if I should have
it
sit on the pot to fire- can't think it thru whether the lid would be
okay-looking without glaze
2-Any ideas of how to build a gallery for the lid in the future?
3-For firing porcelain, I only have silica hydrate, this is not the same
as
silica sand, no? I had fired some little test cups without sand and it
was
okay. Can I skip it? Like just leave the porcelain pot onto the bat
washed
bat? Plan on going to cone 7/8
Many thanks in advance
May
London, UK.
P.S. For the clay absorption test. The noisy one I just did; I had
boiled
for 20 mins, soaked overnite and I took the reading as is.
If I were to do it again, will settle on putting clay block in sewn
cloth
pocket and steam chicken and/or dim sum on top.
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